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Thread: Stuttering & hestitation on boost

  1. #1

    Stuttering & hestitation on boost

    It only happens when youve been on a long run, if your driving for more than half an hour or so the car seems to stutter a couple of times, not boost as high as its set too and generally feels like its bogging down.
    If you start the car from cold and drive it gently till it warms up it goes like shit off a shovel untill the half hour or so, then it starts to play up. If i turn off my ebc and run actuator pressure it runs fine, it only seems to be about 12 psi and above that the problem becomes apparent.

    Has new dizzy cap and arm, iridium colder grade plugs plugs etc etc. Ive been running an intake air temp gauage on it and it sits at 20 deg celcius driving about and rises briefly to 30-35 under boost (drops back as soon as you let off the throttle)

    Any ideas chaps and chapettes??
    Mk1.5 No.13, sold and gone!


  2. #2
    Woodsport Paul Woods's Avatar
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    are the HT leads new murf? sounds to me like the spark is dropping out under high boost.

    TB Quote of the month:"I split my ear open whilst masturbating" - Jasper Full story Here

  3. #3
    I had similar early teething troubles - turned out to be duff plugs (they foul up like a b!tch on the 3S!, especially with the 20% extra fuel at idle on our conversions) and plug leads not seating properly.

    I agree with Paul's suggestion of the spark not holding up under boost.

    What's the timing like, btw?
    http://www.target-earth.net (My cars & projects, video games, computers, etc)
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    1974 Ford Escort mk1 : wide-arched + Vauxhall XE 16v on carbs
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  4. #4
    Havent checked the timing, no timing gun. I remember when i fitted the new plugs it missed a couple of times on high boost but i thought it was just fuel cut as i had fitted an EBC around that time which was crap and allowed boost spikes.
    What plugs should i get if the £50 iridium ones aint up to the job! NGK copper ones like on my old mk2 turbo? a grade colder or just normal?

    Plug leads have never been changed but should only have covered 30k.
    Mk1.5 No.13, sold and gone!


  5. #5
    Go for 1 or 2 grade colder NGK's. They're as good as anything else out there. Plug leads should be ok. Checked the dizzy cap and rotor arm?

  6. #6
    Dizzy cap and arm are under 500 miles old, so are the plugs! Denso iridiums, one grade colder, cost me £50!!
    Mk1.5 No.13, sold and gone!


  7. #7
    Woodsport Paul Woods's Avatar
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    the favourites are the plugs but i wouldnt rule out the leads either,they are prone to drop sparks under load when faulty.

    TB Quote of the month:"I split my ear open whilst masturbating" - Jasper Full story Here

  8. #8
    Well, new plugs are a tenner, new leads are £90!
    Guess which i'll try first :)
    Mk1.5 No.13, sold and gone!


  9. #9
    Yep, good old NGK copper - off the top of me noggin; BKR7E or BCPR7 are the part numbers you want. Cheap as chips too!
    http://www.target-earth.net (My cars & projects, video games, computers, etc)
    1993 Porsche 911 Turbo : almost standard ;)
    1974 Ford Escort mk1 : wide-arched + Vauxhall XE 16v on carbs
    ex-owner of UK mk1.5 conversion #3 : white & black Eurosport kit, rev1 3SGTE, ct26a, gone but not forgotten :cry:

  10. #10
    Yep, just looked on IMOC, bkr6e for standard, bkr7e for higher boost!
    Cheers all, i'll pick some up tomorrow and see how they get on :)
    Mk1.5 No.13, sold and gone!


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