lodgeman
26-07-2007, 00:55
this info has be around for a bit but there is some new stuff, just thought it should be here and stickied for all to read!
Thanks to sanengo and Toysrme for the following ideas:
Want more horsepower? Not enough money for a Turbo?
(If you have enough money and time to hook up a turbo in a 5S-FE, see:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...5&postcount=50 )
Q: How do I increase the power of my Camry?
A: Custom weld a wider Y-pipe for V6. Brospeed (Bosal) used to sell a header bolt on kit for V6, but it has now been discontinued. (2.5" recomended and a device to lean out fuel)
Performance headers (Not emissions safe)
Hi-flow cat with wider downpipe: 2.5" should be enough for i4, 3" for V6
Exhaust: For those with i4 engines, swapping to the V6 muffler does help if you have other exhaust mods. For V6 owners, custom mufflers don't do much. In general, anything after the CAT won't do much.
Installing a performance air filter or cold air intake (CAI) is not a very wise investment for power, but if every bit helps, and you enjoy a more throaty sound, go for it. Get recommendations from others with your engine. Some intakes actually cost you power, but sound louder.
Make sure there is some give to the CAI system. Some CAIs bolt directly to the engine and to the body at each end. When the engine moves, the end bolted to the body has no give and may tear the bolts out of the body where attached.
TRD, AEM, and AMSOIL sell excellent and reusable oil-impregnated air filters. The AEM and TRD filters are the same and are cotton-fiber based. The AMSOIL filter is multi-layer foam.[/edit]
CLEAN YOUR ENGINE TO REGAIN LOST POWER! Carb cleaner, GM top engine cleaner, or SeaFoam to start with. GET RID OF ENGINE CARBON! Believe it or not, spraying a small stream of water through the brake booster vacuum line of your engine can clear away carbon deposites VERY efficiently. (Just don't hydrolock your engine, if the engine is choking too much push on the butterfly valve on your TB)
For any vane-flap Toyota vehicle. 22RE's, 3S's, VZ blocks... And most other AFM vehicles.
This is a vane-flap air-flow meter. You slice the silicon glue off the top, and pry the black plastic top off Exposing the innards.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/07/249.jpg
An AFM. It is not a MAF... They measure the VOLUME of airflow, by a flap, held closed by spring tension. On top of the flap is a small arm, which rotates along what essentially is a pointometer.
The ECU sends an exact voltage to the AFM, and reads the flap. It also reads a small air temperature sensor in the AFM housing. From this -> an AFM can accurately meter the MASS of airflow. (the important part!)
1) Reset the ecu - pull the EFI fuse for one nanosecond and replace it
2) Cut glue
3) Pry UP plastic top
4) PAINT THE STARTING COG
5) Rotote cog clockwise
3 clicks, 5 clicks, 7 clicks seem to be where people like. As soon as you get over the shock factor, most of the gain is 5-7 clicks.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/07/250.jpg
You'll gain mid rpm range power. You'll also gain top rpm range power under a high load (i.e. top gear-top speed runs). Don't be surprised if you rev back to back in park and it's a tad slower from less fuel -> it will be noticeably faster on the street when there is a load on the engine.
Grind down your ACIS valve and clear away carbon deposits to smooth out this turbulent area.
Porting the upper intake manifold doesn't really do jack. I've always told people to take the throttlebody off and knife edge the 1/2" flat surface behind it, but it doesn't make any impact on anything near stock. The upper intake air chamber splits the intake into a top and bottom section. The split is after the throttlebody, and very un-aerodynamic.
LOW-COST LOW-RESISTANCE INTAKE THAT WORKS
(Thanks to Toysrme for this discussion)
Here's how to build the only intake that *actually* does something constructive:
Get on ebay & buy a 2.75" to 3" silicon coupler, and an AFM Adapter WITH a cone filter. That should set you back $25-30.
Go to... Anywhere Lowes/Home Depot/Auto parts store. Buy a plastic 5/8" barb, 2' of 5/8" hose, and something like Automotive Goop.
1) Drill/grind a 5/8" hole in the top, or bottom of the AFM housing on the flat spot, AFTER everything & just BEFORE the hose flange as shown in the following picture
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/07/251.jpg
2) Cut the barb in half, leaving the flange on one side intact (Mine was a 5/8" to 3/4" barb)
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/07/252.jpg
3) Push the hose barb in the hole from the inside out. That way it catches on the flange & gives you some surface area. Check the fit of the bard in the hole and then Goop/Epoxy/whatever the hose barb in place.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/07/253.jpg
4) Bolt the AFM adapter to the AFM, & clamp the filter on
5) Clamp the silicon coupler to the AFM
6) Rotate the entire intake clockwise about 45-60* on the throttlebody when you install it
7) Install the 5/8" hose VERY GENTLY
8) Reconnect the AFM
9) Pull the EFI fuse, and count to One - Brandon-kicks-a-lot-of-ass. Then replace it.
This accomplishes moving the AFM as close to the throttle plate as possible. This increases the resolution of data that the ECU see's to the maximum it ever will, and increase throttle response across the board. It also gives the best transition, shortest, and smallest amount of intake restrictions currently possible. It's the only way you're *actually* going to gain power with an intake, unless the intake includes a n2o fogger, or a turbo at some point.
Not to mention it's... A very aggressive sound. Especially after modding the ACIS closed.
Remember to take off the wire clip on the AFM to get the harness off... Otherwise you'll rip half the PCB out when you tug the cable.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/07/254.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/07/255.jpg
(I had some 2.75" couplers on hand so I used that. But you want to use a 2.75" to 3" coupler.
You can also adjust the AFM cog. See previous discussion on that.
[B]another mod as well -acis related
ACIS mod by request
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian here is the ACIS mod in a nutshell, I'll add to it later. This mod is meant for the 3VZ-FE engine, but may apply to 1MZ engines too.
Background:
Basically, the ACIS is a valve powered by an actuator operating by vacuum pressure that closes when engine revs past 3900rpm to give better high end power. When it's open, it theoretically gives more low end torque, but the 3VZ-FE engine is already very torquey. Furthermore, when the valve is open, the air is very turbulent and may actually limit airflow. So by making the ACIS close early, it will allow the engine to produce a smoother powercurve delivering peak power sooner. More power under 3900rpms and 50%+ TPS. It may be even more noticeable if you did some intake porting.
How To:
1. Disconnect the VSV electronic valve gate. The brown/orange plug on top of your crank case.
2. Disconnect the long vacuum tube going to your vacuum tank, which is located under your battery
3. Unplug the small length of vacuum tube that goes from your ACIS to the VSV and replace it with the long tubing that was originally going to the vacuum tank.
4. Plug the other end of the long tubing to the first vacuum nipple on top of the TB closest to the driver. (the nipple is pointing to the passenger direction and is connected to your EGR)
*note*I have a 3VZ-FE engine, it may be different for the 1MZ. Also, if you don't do a T-junction, you will have to disable your EGR. If ever you do smog checks, please reconnect all tubing to their stock positions.
5. Put a screw into the tubing you took out of the TB nipple to block it. Then put the small length of tubing that was originally going from the ACIS to VSV into the empty nipple on your vacuum tank and put a screw on the open end of it to block it.
6. Make sure all tubing is secured and not loose. Reset your EFI fuse from the fuse relay box. (Take it out for 1 min and put it back in)
7. Crank the car and push the butterfly lever that opens your TB valve and make sure the ACIS actuator closes almost immediately after pushing the lever.
8. If it still closes around 3900rpm, you chose the wrong nipple. There are 2 vacuum lines running into your EGR, one of the 2 will produce a stronger vacuum. For me, it was the inner most nipple.
Pics: Thanks to Brandon (Toysrme) from TN for mod and pics.
http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/2458/l5top8ka.jpg
That brown connector is the VSV valve.
Tube goes from ACIS directly to vacuum nipple on top of your TB.
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/4809/enginetb0xq.jpg
*Do not try this mod if you aren't familiar with your engine! If you screw up, it's not my fault, I'm only providing the directions to performing this mod, I am NOT advocating it*
*Once you put a screw into the tubing, it can't be reused, please purchase replacement tubing*
If you have any questions, reply or pm me.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Jiff Edit* - Added links for pics
Thanks to sanengo and Toysrme for the following ideas:
Want more horsepower? Not enough money for a Turbo?
(If you have enough money and time to hook up a turbo in a 5S-FE, see:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...5&postcount=50 )
Q: How do I increase the power of my Camry?
A: Custom weld a wider Y-pipe for V6. Brospeed (Bosal) used to sell a header bolt on kit for V6, but it has now been discontinued. (2.5" recomended and a device to lean out fuel)
Performance headers (Not emissions safe)
Hi-flow cat with wider downpipe: 2.5" should be enough for i4, 3" for V6
Exhaust: For those with i4 engines, swapping to the V6 muffler does help if you have other exhaust mods. For V6 owners, custom mufflers don't do much. In general, anything after the CAT won't do much.
Installing a performance air filter or cold air intake (CAI) is not a very wise investment for power, but if every bit helps, and you enjoy a more throaty sound, go for it. Get recommendations from others with your engine. Some intakes actually cost you power, but sound louder.
Make sure there is some give to the CAI system. Some CAIs bolt directly to the engine and to the body at each end. When the engine moves, the end bolted to the body has no give and may tear the bolts out of the body where attached.
TRD, AEM, and AMSOIL sell excellent and reusable oil-impregnated air filters. The AEM and TRD filters are the same and are cotton-fiber based. The AMSOIL filter is multi-layer foam.[/edit]
CLEAN YOUR ENGINE TO REGAIN LOST POWER! Carb cleaner, GM top engine cleaner, or SeaFoam to start with. GET RID OF ENGINE CARBON! Believe it or not, spraying a small stream of water through the brake booster vacuum line of your engine can clear away carbon deposites VERY efficiently. (Just don't hydrolock your engine, if the engine is choking too much push on the butterfly valve on your TB)
For any vane-flap Toyota vehicle. 22RE's, 3S's, VZ blocks... And most other AFM vehicles.
This is a vane-flap air-flow meter. You slice the silicon glue off the top, and pry the black plastic top off Exposing the innards.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/07/249.jpg
An AFM. It is not a MAF... They measure the VOLUME of airflow, by a flap, held closed by spring tension. On top of the flap is a small arm, which rotates along what essentially is a pointometer.
The ECU sends an exact voltage to the AFM, and reads the flap. It also reads a small air temperature sensor in the AFM housing. From this -> an AFM can accurately meter the MASS of airflow. (the important part!)
1) Reset the ecu - pull the EFI fuse for one nanosecond and replace it
2) Cut glue
3) Pry UP plastic top
4) PAINT THE STARTING COG
5) Rotote cog clockwise
3 clicks, 5 clicks, 7 clicks seem to be where people like. As soon as you get over the shock factor, most of the gain is 5-7 clicks.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/07/250.jpg
You'll gain mid rpm range power. You'll also gain top rpm range power under a high load (i.e. top gear-top speed runs). Don't be surprised if you rev back to back in park and it's a tad slower from less fuel -> it will be noticeably faster on the street when there is a load on the engine.
Grind down your ACIS valve and clear away carbon deposits to smooth out this turbulent area.
Porting the upper intake manifold doesn't really do jack. I've always told people to take the throttlebody off and knife edge the 1/2" flat surface behind it, but it doesn't make any impact on anything near stock. The upper intake air chamber splits the intake into a top and bottom section. The split is after the throttlebody, and very un-aerodynamic.
LOW-COST LOW-RESISTANCE INTAKE THAT WORKS
(Thanks to Toysrme for this discussion)
Here's how to build the only intake that *actually* does something constructive:
Get on ebay & buy a 2.75" to 3" silicon coupler, and an AFM Adapter WITH a cone filter. That should set you back $25-30.
Go to... Anywhere Lowes/Home Depot/Auto parts store. Buy a plastic 5/8" barb, 2' of 5/8" hose, and something like Automotive Goop.
1) Drill/grind a 5/8" hole in the top, or bottom of the AFM housing on the flat spot, AFTER everything & just BEFORE the hose flange as shown in the following picture
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/07/251.jpg
2) Cut the barb in half, leaving the flange on one side intact (Mine was a 5/8" to 3/4" barb)
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/07/252.jpg
3) Push the hose barb in the hole from the inside out. That way it catches on the flange & gives you some surface area. Check the fit of the bard in the hole and then Goop/Epoxy/whatever the hose barb in place.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/07/253.jpg
4) Bolt the AFM adapter to the AFM, & clamp the filter on
5) Clamp the silicon coupler to the AFM
6) Rotate the entire intake clockwise about 45-60* on the throttlebody when you install it
7) Install the 5/8" hose VERY GENTLY
8) Reconnect the AFM
9) Pull the EFI fuse, and count to One - Brandon-kicks-a-lot-of-ass. Then replace it.
This accomplishes moving the AFM as close to the throttle plate as possible. This increases the resolution of data that the ECU see's to the maximum it ever will, and increase throttle response across the board. It also gives the best transition, shortest, and smallest amount of intake restrictions currently possible. It's the only way you're *actually* going to gain power with an intake, unless the intake includes a n2o fogger, or a turbo at some point.
Not to mention it's... A very aggressive sound. Especially after modding the ACIS closed.
Remember to take off the wire clip on the AFM to get the harness off... Otherwise you'll rip half the PCB out when you tug the cable.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/07/254.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/07/255.jpg
(I had some 2.75" couplers on hand so I used that. But you want to use a 2.75" to 3" coupler.
You can also adjust the AFM cog. See previous discussion on that.
[B]another mod as well -acis related
ACIS mod by request
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian here is the ACIS mod in a nutshell, I'll add to it later. This mod is meant for the 3VZ-FE engine, but may apply to 1MZ engines too.
Background:
Basically, the ACIS is a valve powered by an actuator operating by vacuum pressure that closes when engine revs past 3900rpm to give better high end power. When it's open, it theoretically gives more low end torque, but the 3VZ-FE engine is already very torquey. Furthermore, when the valve is open, the air is very turbulent and may actually limit airflow. So by making the ACIS close early, it will allow the engine to produce a smoother powercurve delivering peak power sooner. More power under 3900rpms and 50%+ TPS. It may be even more noticeable if you did some intake porting.
How To:
1. Disconnect the VSV electronic valve gate. The brown/orange plug on top of your crank case.
2. Disconnect the long vacuum tube going to your vacuum tank, which is located under your battery
3. Unplug the small length of vacuum tube that goes from your ACIS to the VSV and replace it with the long tubing that was originally going to the vacuum tank.
4. Plug the other end of the long tubing to the first vacuum nipple on top of the TB closest to the driver. (the nipple is pointing to the passenger direction and is connected to your EGR)
*note*I have a 3VZ-FE engine, it may be different for the 1MZ. Also, if you don't do a T-junction, you will have to disable your EGR. If ever you do smog checks, please reconnect all tubing to their stock positions.
5. Put a screw into the tubing you took out of the TB nipple to block it. Then put the small length of tubing that was originally going from the ACIS to VSV into the empty nipple on your vacuum tank and put a screw on the open end of it to block it.
6. Make sure all tubing is secured and not loose. Reset your EFI fuse from the fuse relay box. (Take it out for 1 min and put it back in)
7. Crank the car and push the butterfly lever that opens your TB valve and make sure the ACIS actuator closes almost immediately after pushing the lever.
8. If it still closes around 3900rpm, you chose the wrong nipple. There are 2 vacuum lines running into your EGR, one of the 2 will produce a stronger vacuum. For me, it was the inner most nipple.
Pics: Thanks to Brandon (Toysrme) from TN for mod and pics.
http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/2458/l5top8ka.jpg
That brown connector is the VSV valve.
Tube goes from ACIS directly to vacuum nipple on top of your TB.
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/4809/enginetb0xq.jpg
*Do not try this mod if you aren't familiar with your engine! If you screw up, it's not my fault, I'm only providing the directions to performing this mod, I am NOT advocating it*
*Once you put a screw into the tubing, it can't be reused, please purchase replacement tubing*
If you have any questions, reply or pm me.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Jiff Edit* - Added links for pics