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Berg9987
03-07-2007, 19:41
The last week saw every spare moment in the garage with the MR2. I have pressed in four new wheel bearings, new ball joints, front outter tie rods, rear tie rod asseblies and a poly urethane bushing kit. I spent several hours taking all the suspension apart and cleaning all the threads for the allignment adjustments. I also replaced a bent rear strut bar and the front right one. It was stuck and Fritz (my grinder) had to hack it out. I spent this time getting all the nuts and bolts to move freely so the allignment should be a breeze. My question is how do I protect these parts from seizing up again? Can I paint over the threads/nuts/bolts to prevent them from rusting or dirt getting in there (after allignment of course)? I would assume that paint would be easier to remove than the rust/dirt. Any thoughts?

Cheers,
Berg

msherry21
03-07-2007, 19:46
what about some thick grease like copper grease or something? I've been thinking this too once I get mine setup nextweek.

Berg9987
03-07-2007, 20:11
My concern with the grease would be its tendancy to attract and retain dirt. Over time this dirt might get into the threads between the nut/bolt. I don't actually know though as I've never done this before. It might not be and issue and the dirt might just sit on the outter layer of the grease. Perhaps if it were greased, then cleaned every few months and regreased? Again I'm not sure.

Berg

lodgeman
03-07-2007, 20:23
what i did was free of all the nuts bolts etc and then copper grease the threads and then wind the nuts on and off apllying a bit of grease all the time. then wipe off acesss and then refit and repaint. be careful of threads where there is a torque setting needed as the coppergrease can affect the tightening of some nuts!

Jiff Lemon
03-07-2007, 20:46
yup, copper grease fan here too; As lodgeman says, make sure the entire thread gets covered. Doesn't matter that the exposed part attracts the dirt and grime, you can wipe that off when you come to disassemble in years to come. Its rarely the exposed parts that cause you grief as you can usually get the wire brush on them - It's the siezed threads that are the pain.

Berg9987
03-07-2007, 20:56
I thank you all for the info! I will head out and get myself some copper grease before reassembly. I don't really want to go through the struggle of freeing everything again whenever I need an allignment.

Cheers,
Berg

msherry21
03-07-2007, 21:00
yeah, Its a right pain in the arse the first time round!

Jim-SR
03-07-2007, 23:11
copper slip the threads (it might retain dirt, but the dirt wont get between threads. its corrosion that seizes things up, not dirt, and youll never stop moisture)

and if youre feeling particularly eager you could heatshrink all of the exposed threaded parts to try and limit the moisture that can get at them. youll never be able to completely stop things from seizing, but you can prolong the process and make it less likely. the best way to stop bolts from seizing up is to use them regularly. whether that means marking them up to index them, loosening them off, adding new copper slip and then replacing them then so be it. its about the only way to ensure things dont seize on an old car. short of using aluminium everywhere (although even that seizes if left long enough!!)

most nuts and bolts will seize up within 3-6 months. its amazing how fast it can happen. i undid the lock nut on my front steering arms on friday and set my toes. drove the car for 2 days (not even that far, only 70 miles) in the rain, cam to make more adjustments on sunday and they were seized up again. not solid, but a LOT tighter than i left them on friday. thats how quickly the moisture got in and got to work. i used copper slip as well

Marksman
04-07-2007, 11:20
I too was wondering about some large diameter heatshrink. Sounds like a good plan to me. Could even get some nice pink stuff for Jiff...

O.S.

Berg9987
04-07-2007, 15:16
Hmmm.... designer heatshrink..... might have something there rotflmao

Berg