Sengk's V6 (3VZFE) Swap

[sengk]

Hi fellow MR2 owners. I will be officially starting my 3VZFE V6 swap shortly and I thought I would create a thread to log my experience with it.
I will also be keeping an excel sheet with my running costs. My HP Goal is around 300HP running a turbo.

First I would like to start off with giving my mechanical background. I love working on my cars. I've done all the maintenance on the cars I own myself. The most advance work i've done on the MR2 is replacing the head gastket, timing belt, and water pump. Which isn't much. :P

Now back to the swap. I will be swaping a 3VZFE V6 from a 93 ES300 into a 1991 MR2 NA Hardtop which originally had a 2.2 liter 5SFE with 140,XXX miles. I currently have 2 V6 engines. I recieved my frist engine from a friend but it was too dirty for me to clean up and it was missing a bunch of sensors and stuff. I found my second V6 online from a local guy with everything on it for 50 dollars. The guy that I got it from had it switched out because his machanic said that the smell from this heater was from the engine. Guess what? It wasn't. He took it to a different machanic and he had his heater core replaced and it fixed the problem. Well anyway now i have a good engine and a spare.

Anyway i used one of the heads from my spare engine to practice porting on. Here are some pictures of it

For those of you who have done a port and polish before please give me some pointers on the job that i did. As you may have notice i couldn't reach everything in the ports. All i could do was port match the intake port and smooth out the intake, exhuast, and valve ports as much as i could. I was going to try to unshroud the valves but there wasn't enough room between the valves and the head gasket lines. I guess what i'm asking is should i go ahead and apply this to my good engine heads or just slap on some new gaskets and proceed with the swap.

I also need help in selecting a turbo. i need a turbo that will get me between 300 to 400HP. Let me know if this one will work for me.

http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/6435/exhaustportlk2.th.jpg (http://img441.imageshack.us/my.php?image=exhaustportlk2.jpg)
http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/2185/intakeportzx7.th.jpg (http://img301.imageshack.us/my.php?image=intakeportzx7.jpg)
http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/2482/valveports1zf0.th.jpg (http://img301.imageshack.us/my.php?image=valveports1zf0.jpg)
http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/3650/valveports2ci7.th.jpg (http://img182.imageshack.us/my.php?image=valveports2ci7.jpg)

T3T4 Internal V-Band Turbo T3/T4 8.3 PSI 60 Trim 60 A/R
Inlet 2"
Outlet 2.5"
Bearing Wet Floating Bearings
Oil Inlet 1/8 NPT Oil Inlet
Flange Standard T3/T4 Flange
Swaps Great WHP on B Series Swaps
Compressor .48 A/R Compressor
Turbine .60 A/R Turbine
Fits T3 and T3/T4 Manifolds

Sorry about the long post.

[Paul Woods]

hey sengk ,great project,about time someone stuck a turbo on one! what are you going to use to control fuelling? the stock ecu has no mapping for anything over 5 psi.

oh do us a favour and resize your first pic :rozzer: cheers bud !

keep the swap pics coming,looks like you did a good job on the porting,looks very similar to heads ive seen professionally done.

[sengk]

Thanks paul. The pictures are now resized. For fuel i was planing on using 315cc injectors from the 7M-GE found in the Supra NA and a 255lph Walbro fuel pump. I will also be installing an adjustable FP regulator and tune with a SAFC II and the AFM Cog trick.

[Jaemus]

7M-GE, eh, are they the right sort of high impedance top feed injectors? interesting tip, i might be able to get my hands on those fairly easily down here

[biteme]

Thanks paul. The pictures are now resized. For fuel i was planing on using 315cc injectors from the 7M-GE found in the Supra NA and a 255lph Walbro fuel pump. I will also be installing an adjustable FP regulator and tune with a SAFC II and the AFM Cog trick.
There's certainly better ways of tuning than the SAFC II mate. They're responsible for a whole heap of screw ups.

If you insist of doing that with the AFM cog trick, then please please do it with a wideband monitoring your AFR.

Instead of the cost of the SAFC II - why don't you look at the SMT6 or SMT7 instead and use the full piggyback option that has. You'll be close to limits of what the piggybacks can do there, before you go to real standalones.

Good luck though fella!

[sengk]

There's certainly better ways of tuning than the SAFC II mate. They're responsible for a whole heap of screw ups.

If you insist of doing that with the AFM cog trick, then please please do it with a wideband monitoring your AFR.

Instead of the cost of the SAFC II - why don't you look at the SMT6 or SMT7 instead and use the full piggyback option that has. You'll be close to limits of what the piggybacks can do there, before you go to real standalones.

Good luck though fella!

I would but the SAFC II was free and I already have it. Maybe i should just sell it and get something better. How much for a SMT setup?

[biteme]

I'm not sure. Not that expensive though.

[sengk]

7M-GE, eh, are they the right sort of high impedance top feed injectors? interesting tip, i might be able to get my hands on those fairly easily down here

here is some Injector data for you. I believe that all of these injectors use the same type of connector (Type F) also. I have a set of 7M-GE injectors at home and i've had them installed on my 5SFE before and they do work. I mention this because the 5SFE is on the list below so in theory it should work with the 3VZFE also. 7M-GE injectors are also top feed. It might be easier for you guys to get the 3SGE injectors though.

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/dataBySubject/Injectors.html

color R flow test pressure valve hole engine
red / dark-blue 13.8 155 2.9 cone (2) 3E-E
violet 13.8 155 2.9 ball (1) 3E-E (-90.8), 2E-E
sky-blue 13.8 155 2.9 cone (2) 1G-FE
light-green 13.8 176 2.9 cone (2) 4A-FE (Corolla -89.8)
grey 13.8 176 2.9 cone (2) 4A-FE (89.8-)
dark-blue 13.8 200 2.9 cone (2) 3S-FE (87.8-)
orange blue 13.8 200 2.9 cone (2) 22R-E (88.8-)
brown 13.8 200 2.9 cone (1) 3VZ-FE
red 13.8 200 2.9 ball (2) 2VZ-FE
sky-blue 13.8 213 2.9 cone (1) 3F-E
beige 13.8 213 2.9 ball (2) 4A-GE (EFI-L 87.8-89.8)
yellow 13.8 213 2.9 cone (2) 5S-FE
green 13.8 250 2.9 cone (2) 4A-GE (EFI-D 89.8-)
violet 13.8 250 2.9 cone (2) 4A-GE (EFI-L 89.8-)
violet 13.8 251 2.9 cone (2) 1UZ-FE
green 13.8 295 2.55 cone (2) 3S-GE (87.8-89.8 with TWC)
pink 13.8 315 2.9 cone (2) 3S-GE (89.8-)
light-green 13.8 315 2.9 ball (2) 7M-GE (88.8-, US 89.8-)

[Paul Woods]

it should also be noted that the AFM cog trick is for leaning out the already overly rich stock ecu fuelling and not for getting more fuel in there at higher rpm/boost.

[sengk]

What happens when you use the SAFC to tune the ECU? How does the stock ecu react to the changes in the AFM signal?

Also, which turbo who be best for around 300 hp? I would rather not use the newer GTR type turbos because of the price.

[Paul Woods]

a simple ct-26a off a supra should be good enough for 300bhp at just 5 or 6 psi and they are really cheap,i got one for £50 that was a hybrid off ebay recently.

[sengk]

paul, did you have to use a oil restrictor for the CT-26? Do you know what the ar specs are like on that turbo?

thanks

[Paul Woods]

sengk the turbo has no restrictor fitted when on the supra so i doubt theres a need,although there is a lot of debate over on the US forums about too much oil being fed to turbos.

spec on the supra ct-26a...

turbo............comp inducer..comp exducer..turb minor.......turb major
Supra CT26.........1.75".............2.559"...........1.97"............2.36"

[sengk]

How long would it take this turbo to spool?

T3 T4 T04b Turbocharger, .60 A/R Compressor, 1.15A/R Turbine, 3" Inlet, 2" Outlet

Inlet:
3"
Outlet:
2"
Bearing:
Wet Floating Bearings
Oil Inlet:
1/8 NPT Oil Inlet
Flange:
Standard T3/T4 Flange
Swaps:
~350 WHP
Working Pressure:
25-35 PSI Peak Boost Output Capability
Compressor:
.60 A/R Compressor
Turbine:
.63 A/R Turbine
Compressor Wheel:
0.57T Compressor Wheel
Exducer: 2.32"
Mayor:3.00"
Turbine Wheel:

High quality T04B with forged turbine propeller wheel
Exducer: 2.07"
Mayor:2.36"
Hot Side:

.58 Straight round Flange

How much power would this turbo be able to produce?

T3T4 Internal V-Band Turbo T3/T4 8.3 PSI 60 Trim 60 A/R
Inlet 2"
Outlet 3"
Bearing Wet Floating Bearings
Oil Inlet 1/8 NPT Oil Inlet
Flange Standard T3/T4 Flange
Swaps Great WHP on B Series Swaps
Working Pressure 25~28 PSI
Compressor .48 A/R Compressor
Turbine .60 A/R Turbine
Fits T3 and T3/T4 Manifolds

Thanks

[Shorty]

Adamh will do the math for you i think....:)

[sengk]

I'm so clueless when it comes to turbo sizing. but i do want something that will come in at around 3k RPM and stay on until red line. I am aiming for around 300 hp but would like the turbo to be capable of about 450 HP so that i don't have to upgrade it in the future. Thanks.

[85mr2illinois]

what is the difference between the 3s and 7m ct26's besides the exhaust housing?

[Jaemus]

different turbines, but im not sure of the specs. also the 3S ones are sometimes ceramic.

[85mr2illinois]

i was just asking because i had intended to use the ct26 from my 91t that i am swapping unless there is a good reason to go with the supra ct26.

[sengk]

Update:

I finally finished porting one of the heads, reassembled it, and installed it, but then I ran into a problem removing the other head to be port. I managed to strip 2 of the head bolt. :rant:

Do you guys have any suggestions on how to remove stripped head bolts?

Thanks

[Jaemus]

wow? how did you do that?

quick, pack it full of hobnobs and send it to woodsy!

[sengk]

hahaha. I think he's a little too far from where i live, california, USA. The bolt was torque on there really good. it wouldn't even budge with a 4 ft extension.

[Paul Woods]

you mean you have snapped a head bolt completely off?

[sengk]

no, the head of the head bolt is rounded/stripped.

[Paul Woods]

ah right,thought you meant the threads.....ok you can hammer a smaller socket over the head bolt so they become one,that might get it.....other than that you could drill the head of the bolt away (wont be easy!) then lift the head off with the shank of the bolt still in the engine,then undo the shank afterwards.Id try the socket method first!

[sengk]

i'll try that. Thanks Woods.

[Paul Woods]

yer welcome,hope it works.

[adamh]

hello chap, to be totally honest your better off finding a turbo shop, calling in and having a good chat. it takes a long time to build a working knowledge and nowt can beat that.
the ct26 will spool quicker, I'd go with that as your not looking for high boost.

[sengk]

hello chap, to be totally honest your better off finding a turbo shop, calling in and having a good chat. it takes a long time to build a working knowledge and nowt can beat that.
the ct26 will spool quicker, I'd go with that as your not looking for high boost.

I would go with the CT26 but the problem is that it's hard to find flanges for. It would be great to know what the equivalent eBay t3/4 foot print turbo is? At least with the t3/t4 setup i can switch out the turbo easily without having to weld on a new flange.

Thanks

[Peebs]

For the 3VZ, you'd want a Garrett T30 - T34 for the HP you want, and forget about sourcing a new flange (ooer) they are pish to have made up.

[sengk]

For the 3VZ, you'd want a Garrett T30 - T34 for the HP you want, and forget about sourcing a new flange (ooer) they are pish to have made up.


Thanks. I'll look into those.

[biteme]

My choice for this low boost, high response would be a Garrett GT28RS. Lovely turbo!

[biteme]

this is true ... never know what the future holds though!

[sengk]

In the end i had to drill it out. Now i can finally proceed with the build. It was a pain but at least I learned something important from all of this. Always use a quality socket when removing something important.

oh and after I removed the head, what ever was left of the bolt just treaded out by hand.

Thanks everyone for all of your help.

[sengk]

Update: finished head porting and engine assembly. I will drop the old engine from the MR2 next weekend.

[sengk]

Anyone know the part number for the 3vzfe flywheel bolts? Also what size socket is needed for the MKII MR2 Axle nuts?

Thanks

[sengk]

I called toyota and got the part number for the 3vzfe flywheel bolts. It's 90105-10048.

[Paul Woods]

seng that part number is not correct mate,thats for a 3vz-fe AUTO....in other words they fit a 3VZ flexplate and are not long enough to reach through a manual transmission flywheel.

The bolts you need are 8 x "90105-10076"

[sengk]

Thanks Paul. Stupid toyota service department!:rant:

[sengk]

seng that part number is not correct mate,thats for a 3vz-fe AUTO....in other words they fit a 3VZ flexplate and are not long enough to reach through a manual transmission flywheel.

The bolts you need are 8 x "90105-10076"

Paul,

Aren't those for the 4ag? I thought i read somewhere that you had to grind 2mm off of each one. I just called again and another guy told me that the correct part number is "90105-10138".

Thanks,

Seng

[sengk]

hahaha no wonder i remember reading it somewhere. You said it yourself in another post.

and the project begins...

3vz-fe auto bolts are too short,so as olie says you need to use mk1 4a-ge bolts,part number 90105-10076 ,you need 8 of those and also fit the v6 spacer plate from behind the auto flexplate,otherwise the bolts will be 2mm too long....or chop the bolts down a smidge.

[sengk]

I guess we'll find out when i get the bolts.

[Paul Woods]

yeah its better to use the mk1 bolts for three reasons...

1/ they are the perfect length to go through the spacer plate and fly with maximum threads inside the crank without bottoming out (which they would do without the spacer)

2/using the spacer clamps the flywheel on bettererer

3/because i said so :)

[nik]

4/ there is no 4 as the other 3 were so great..

[sengk]

yeah its better to use the mk1 bolts for three reasons...

1/ they are the perfect length to go through the spacer plate and fly with maximum threads inside the crank without bottoming out (which they would do without the spacer)

2/using the spacer clamps the flywheel on bettererer

3/because i said so :)


lol. Those are some good reasons. I might just have to change my order again.

Thanks Paul.

[sengk]

I have a question about the wiring. I go the wiring harness from a manual car but the ECU was already taken, so i got an auto ECU. Will this combo work together or do i need to hunt down a MT ECU? What do i need to do with the AT ECU to make it work like a MT ECU? I also read somewhere that the manual 3vzfe uses a different type of O2 sensor than the Auto. Can some one confirm this? Which one do i use?

Thanks.

[OlberJ]

We all use A/T ECU's over here. Sure sumone will tell you "how" or there is wiring diagrams in Paul's V6 conversion guide on the mr2mk1clubsite.

[Paul Woods]

tricky seng,the answer is we just dont know... we only have auto ecu's here so nobody has tried a manual one i dont think.

As for getting the auto ecu to work,you need to supply the purple/yellow wire on plug D (SP1) with 5V supply from the BL/R wire on the TPS plug....that stops the auto ecu trying to retard the timing between its mapped out auto gearchanges....if you dont do this it will buck at various RPM when accelerating.

[biteme]

I see did you what you did there Tony, rhymed the bucking with something else for comic effect :thumbsup:

(Owen is an arse :D )

[superchargedsam]

I see did you what you did there Tony, rhymed the bucking with something else for comic effect :thumbsup:

should that read:

I see what you did there Tony, rhymed the bucking with something else for comic effect :thumbsup:

hmmm your English aint what it use 2b !

:hidesbehi and waits for johnny to :blowup:

[biteme]

should that read:

I see what you did there Tony, rhymed the bucking with something else for comic effect :thumbsup:

hmmm your English aint what it use 2b !

:hidesbehi and waits for johnny to :blowup:
Nicely doctored ;)

[superchargedsam]

ah see that little "Last edited" is the give away! lol

[Marksman]

ah see that little "Last edited" is the give away! lol

Two can play at that game...

[biteme]

ah see that little "Last edited" is the give away! lol

Samuel, did you mean:

Ah I see that little "Last edited" is the give away! lol

haha!

[sengk]

Thanks Paul. You're always so helpful. :D

[superchargedsam]

Two can play at that game...

hehe cheers Owen!

[Marksman]

hehe cheers Owen!

No worries Sam, let me know if he changes it back again ;)

Owen.

[sengk]

Here are some update pictures. Finally got the engine out last weekend.

http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/3032/1002355nc7.th.jpg (http://img184.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1002355nc7.jpg)http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/4940/1002365oe2.th.jpg (http://img184.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1002365oe2.jpg)http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/3706/1002366lp4.th.jpg (http://img184.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1002366lp4.jpg)http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/6099/1002373mg7.th.jpg (http://img184.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1002373mg7.jpg)http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/1781/1002379ov2.th.jpg (http://img90.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1002379ov2.jpg)

[superchargedsam]

coming along nicely!

[sengk]

Here's a quick update picture.

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/910/22107340nc9.th.jpg (http://img337.imageshack.us/my.php?image=22107340nc9.jpg)

[Garbe]

i likey, looks sweet

[sengk]

I am wondering if anyone outside of California has a 3VZFE manifold with EGR equipment on it. I just realized that I have the Japanese manifold and have no EGR equipment on it. Obviously being in California, that’s a no no. I've heard that some of you block off the egr ports anyway, so maybe you maybe interested in a trade for my Japanese manifold that doesn't have the ports for the egr. Of course, I would also throw in some cash for the egr equipment.

If you have a spare set of manifold and EGR system and would like to sell it please let me know. I'm so close to being able to throw the v6 into the 2.

I just spent 3 hours going to 3 different wreck yards looking for one but no luck. they've all been taken.

Thanks,
Sengk

[Shorty]

Might put a thread up in the wanted section to make it more visable. I`m sure its a go for someone here:) Missed the last update. ùber gut looking engine there and the classic picture with person in engine bay;)

[sengk]

I also don't have the fuel line from the 3vzfe donor car. the flexible rubber line was cut. What are my options? do i just try to locate the stock fuel line or can i go after market? Can i just crimp on another fuel line to the existing banjo fittings?

thanks,
sengk

[Garbe]

The camry fuel lines are too short anyway. So use the existing banjo's with some new fuel line.
There's some pics in oohmatrons swap showing how to remove the existing fuel line clamps (the crimped bit) from the engine side and the banjo.

[sengk]

Thanks Garbe, that saved me the trouble of buying it and finding out that it didn't work.

I wonder if someone could post up a picture of their intake manifold showing where the egr valve and pipe connects to. Maybe i can just drill and tap mine instead of buying a whole manifold. I do have a spare manifold that i can practice on. Then all i would need is the EGR equipment.

[sengk]

What type of fuel line do I need? Will this one work?
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SPE-29498

Fuel Line; SSteel-Flex; Fuel Line Kit; Incl. Fuel Line w/2 Chrome Magna-Clamps; 0.375 in. ID; L-3 ft.


thanks,
sengk

[Garbe]

Once its for fuel injection applications (150psi or there abouts)then it will be fine, not the one for carbs which is much lower PSI, Just measure the fuel pipes, the fuel return is smaller than the fuel intake line.

I got 6mm and 8mm hose, but check just to make sure.

[Garbe]

Heres some pics of the intake
http://forums.twobrutal.com/showthread.php?t=4872

and another pic not in the thread
manifold
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2007/04/8.jpg

intake blanked off
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2006/09/27.jpg

I think you may be better of trying to get hold of the manifold and bits

[sengk]

Yeah, you're right about the manifold. the one i have doesn't bulge out like that at the egr location. Lucky Mr. Woods has graciously offered to ship me the manifold and egr equipment for the cost of shipping.
:thumbsup:

[sengk]

hmm... seems that a couple of my posts got deleted.

Here are some updated pictures for you guys

First off is two pictures of the engine in the car with and without the cover. :thumbsup:

http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/2894/1002898kq1.th.jpg (http://img505.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1002898kq1.jpg)

http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/3781/1002901ak5.th.jpg (http://img296.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1002901ak5.jpg)

Next is a picture of the driver side axel port. Can anyone tell me what it is that's hanging lose inside next to the axel seal? >:(

http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/7020/1002895ub6.th.jpg (http://img502.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1002895ub6.jpg)

Last is a picture of my cat curious as to what's going on.

http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/981/1002902kc1.th.jpg (http://img502.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1002902kc1.jpg)

Thanks everyone for helping me get it this far. :thumbsup:

[BSM]

The spring is from the outer seal, it lives behind the lip and holds the seal onto the driveshaft once in place. Be careful when putting it back it may slip out again.

[Garbe]

I think you're probably better of getting a new seal.

[sengk]

does the seal just slide in and out of that hole or are they held on by those bolts in the picture? Do I need to remove those bolts inorder to replace the seals? Would it be better to replace both or just that one side?

[Garbe]

No bolts holding the seal in, gently prise it out making sure you don't damage the box. Then instal new ones ensuring you put a little oil on the seal to help it in.

I'd replace both while your at it. Nothing like losing expensive gearbox oil because of a dodgy seal.

[sengk]

Clearence isn't suppost to be this tight between the alternator and firewall right?

http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/2118/1002897ve3.th.jpg (http://img408.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1002897ve3.jpg)

[Garbe]

No 8o

[Jiff Lemon]

What size drive belt you running there? Using the standard alternator mounting bracket?

[Garbe]

the whole thing seems to be too close - the bracket is fixed to the engine so i suppose length of belt would not cause this to happen.

How have you addressed the mount issue??

[sengk]

Yes it is the standard mounting bracket and for the drive belt i had to measure it out then get it at a auto store. I dont remember which one i got.

Garbe,

If you mean the passenger side mount, no i haven't fabed one up yet. I'm not sure how far to move the engine back.

[OlberJ]

Sure the Alt belt has to be 285mm, and is pretty tight without adjusting it out.

Someone will confirm for us hopefully but it might just be that bit too far out. i.e 10cm too long.

[OlberJ]

Infact, shut up Olie 10mm is 1cm.

[sengk]

Yea it was pretty tight with only slight adjustments to get it to the proper tightness. :)

[Garbe]

Sengk you can get a prefabbed mount from 4V6 on this site.
It's what I used and is an excellent piece of fabrication.

[Garbe]

http://forums.twobrutal.com/showthread.php?t=2609&highlight=engine+mount

[sengk]

http://forums.twobrutal.com/showthread.php?t=2609&highlight=engine+mount

Yeah, i'm going to have to get one of those sooner or later, but right now i just want to get a temporary fix. I want to have the engine running good before i invest dump anymore money in to the project.

The Mount is a beautiful piece of work. though.

[Jiff Lemon]

The mount will solve all your clearance issues; Temporary fix isn't really worth it - Engine position determines things like plumbing angles, wiring routes etc. Its pretty much a pre-requisite for mk2 swap!

The alternator belt is a 925 x 6rib belt; Can't tell you what they come off (apparently a Camry without aircon, if such a thing exists).

[sengk]

Mount on order. :thumbsup:

[Jiff Lemon]

and thus an end to your problems :)

[sengk]

For those that started with a non turbo and have cruise control. Were your throttle cables long enough? The cable coming from my cruise control box is too short to reach the throttle body. where can i get a longer one? Part number?
Fyi. in case there are any differences, my throttle cable is on the passenger side by the rear strut.

[Garbe]

one of the guys down under has done this exact same thing - sorry I can't remember the user name
but check in the MK2 V6 swaps

[sengk]

Do we still need to keep these fuses? Do they serve any purpose?

http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/3852/fusesna9.th.jpg (http://img177.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fusesna9.jpg)

thanks
Seng

[Marksman]

We didn't use them in Paff's MK1V6 swap, but not sure on the MK2, sorry.

Cheers,

Owen.

[Garbe]

The fuses you can get rid off - open up the harness and you'll see that all the thick white wires join further down.

You do need to keep one white wire to power up the fuse box.

[sengk]

That's good to know because i didn't grab them when i got my harness. I'm one wire away from completing the wiring portion of the swap. After that I'm going to remove the excess wires and clean up the wiring. My tranny axle seals should be ariving today. I can finally get the axel back on. All i have left is to build the exhaust, install fuel lines, coolant and heater hoses, and intake system, then i'm done.

I'm hoping to be able to hear it run by this weekend.

[Garbe]

Great news there Sengk
Look forward to seeing a start up vid:thumbsup:

[sengk]

btw. Are coolant pipes made of a special metal? What type of pipe can I get at a local hardware store to use to extend the driver side? As far as the heater lines go, do it matter which one plugs into where?

Also, what size pipping have you guys used for the downpipe/exhaust system?

thanks,
seng

[Garbe]

I used a flexi stainless coolant hose do a search on ebay motors for a 48" stainless flexi, its almost long enough but i used a rubber elbow and a short length of the old coolant piping.

As for the exhaust I cut at the v6 down pipe flexi and used the original MR2 midpipe choped and welded together - 2" is the size of the V6 down pipes and the mr2 midpipe

[sengk]

what size are our radiator hoses? will this one work? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=004&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=140141682084&rd=1&rd=1

[Garbe]

Similar to the one I got - Its got the reducer sizes listed.

[sengk]

I got this picture off of Paul's v6 swap wiring guide. In the guide it says to join it with the white one and attach it to the big white wire in the fuse box, but the black wire doesn't seem to be connected to anything at the other end. Anybody know where it's suppose to run to and what it's for?

http://img76.imageshack.us/img76/4594/blackwireig5.th.jpg (http://img76.imageshack.us/my.php?image=blackwireig5.jpg)

thanks,
Seng

[Paul Woods]

seng we have since learnt that we dont need to use the black wire,that can be taken out of the loom completely,its just the white one you need to connect.

Recently we have started removing the two large fuses and bolting these terminals straight into the fusebox instead,it makes a much neater job of it

[sengk]

seng we have since learnt that we dont need to use the black wire,that can be taken out of the loom completely,its just the white one you need to connect.

Recently we have started removing the two large fuses and bolting these terminals straight into the fusebox instead,it makes a much neater job of it

Where do you bolt these terminals in the fuse box? Where the existing big white power cable bolts too?



Thanks,
Seng

[Paul Woods]

yep the very ones!

[sengk]

I made a big mistake today. I connected the hoses on the cold idle valve wrong and managed to fill my cylinders with water when i was filling my coolant system. I managed the drain the water from the cylinders and correct the hoses on the valve but when i tried starting the car for the first time it would start. I checked the spark and it's ok. I'm going to check the timing and fuel tomorrow. hopefully i can fix it and get it started for the first time.

[podge]

thats called the nemo effect :D when we were building paffs we did exactly the same took a good while to dry out try taking out your spark plugs drying them out diconect the fuel pump relay and crank the car over for a bit just to make sure everything is out of there then just pour a small amount of fuel into each cylinder spark plugs back in reconect fuel pump then try starting her it may take a while but if everything is ok she should eventualy fire hope this helps podge

[Marksman]

I made a big mistake today. I connected the hoses on the cold idle valve wrong and managed to fill my cylinders with water when i was filling my coolant system. I managed the drain the water from the cylinders and correct the hoses on the valve but when i tried starting the car for the first time it would start. I checked the spark and it's ok. I'm going to check the timing and fuel tomorrow. hopefully i can fix it and get it started for the first time.

Thank God we're not the only ones to have done that. Fear not it'll be OK :thumbsup:

Owen.

[sengk]

Phew. I don't feel like such a bloody idiot now.

[Marksman]

Phew. I don't feel like such a bloody idiot now.

Oh no, you're still a bloody idiot you're just not the only bloody idiot!

:hidesbehi

Owen.

[sengk]

Hahaha. Good one mate.

[sengk]

Man it still wont start. It sounds like it's about to start but it just sputters. I think my timing might be off. I'm getting spark and fuel. I can't check my timing because my timing light decided to stop working on me. Anyone have a diagram of the spark plug wires layout?

thanks

[sengk]

I think my timing is way off. I must've messed up the valve/cam timing while I was assembling the engine. The engine just sputters for a few seconds when I try to start it.

Anyone have any suggestions or tips and tricks to timing this beast?

Thanks,
Sengk

[Whore of Babylon]

i marked my cam rods and gears before i took them out, i spose you can take your car to a mechanic and askhim to align them for you. Shouldent cost to much.

[Garbe]

Its just a matter of lining up the timming marks on the camgears and crank - seemed quite straight forward when i did mine.

did you sort hte backlash gears when you put the cams back in?

and have you got the leads/plugs all correct - may be something as simple as that.

[sengk]

the backlash gear was done correctly. I learned my leason when changing the head gasket on my old engine the 5sffe. I checked the cam gears with a picture i found from one of Paul's builds and it was correct. I'm not sure about the crank though. Is it in the correct position with every revolution at the zero timing mark or ever two revolutions? And when the the crank is at zero is the piston in cycinder 1 suppose to be at TDC?

I'm also not too sure about the plugs. I never did find a diagram for the order that they are suppose to go. I took a brief look at a buddy's car and took some notes but i could've gotten them wrong.

Is it suppose to be like this?
http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/338/sparkplugem8.th.jpg (http://img411.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sparkplugem8.jpg)

[Garbe]

I dont have my car at the minute so can't check - but the distributor cap has the plugs numbered. with 1 being at the top on your diagram looks like you have number 6 at the top

Number 1 is TDC when all marks are lined up.

From memory I think you have the cylinders in the correct order.

[sengk]

Thanks I should be able to figure it out with that much info.

Sengk

[sengk]

Ok i got it running better now. The plugs were in the wrong order on spark plugs cap. It starts from 1 at the top then runs counter clock wise all the way around. :thumbsup: The problem i'm having now is that it will start but wont stay running.

any ideas guys?

i'm so close. It sounds so mean when it revs up.

:twisted:

[Marksman]

How long does it run for? Does it die as soon as you stop cranking or will it run for a while and then cut out?

Owen.

[Garbe]

Ok I'm at work now - but it sounds like you have not wired the cor properly -
There's one wire that keeps the fuel pump going once the car starts up.
Check through the wiring guide and it'll become clear.

[sengk]

How long does it run for? Does it die as soon as you stop cranking or will it run for a while and then cut out?

Owen.

It runs for a second after i start cranking. then the next time i crank it will rev up then die.

[sengk]

Ok I'm at work now - but it sounds like you have not wired the cor properly -
There's one wire that keeps the fuel pump going once the car starts up.
Check through the wiring guide and it'll become clear.

I checked the cor wiring and it was spot on. I took a look at the wiring diagram for the v6 and found the problem to be with the afm. Pin 2, white/black, next to the red/green wire needed to be grounded for the cor to work properly. This white/black wire terminates by the big white wires that have the fuse blocks on the v6 harness. I ran this wire in to the trunk and grounded it with the wire from the starter relay. After that the car started up and stayed running. However, the idle isn't stable. It goeas up and down.
Maybe a vaccum leak somewhere?

Sengk

[Marksman]

The 4a does that if the coolant hasn't been bled completely so I'd presume the V6 will too?

O.S.

[OlberJ]

That's a point there, i take it we just then use the 2 bleed points at the front of the car (radiator and heater matrix) and the rear pressure cap?

[sengk]

I bleed the coolant some more and it's not as bad now. So I decided to change my oil and to my surprise I got milk shake instead. I didn't know that 3vzfe is also a milk shake machine. :hmm:

Would filling the engine with water have caused this? :doh:

anyway, I'm going to do a compression test today and will probably have to pull the heads to change the head gaskets again. Hopefully the piston rings aren't toast. If I get low compression numbers how do i test to see if it's the piston rings and not the head gasket?

Do I pour a little bit of motor oil in through the spark plug hole and see if the compression improves? If it does then it is the piston rings right? If it doesn't then it is either the head gasket or both?

thanks,
Sengk

[Marksman]

Sounds like a good plan to me!

Owen.

[roseward]

I bleed the coolant some more and it's not as bad now. So I decided to change my oil and to my surprise I got milk shake instead. I didn't know that 3vzfe is also a milk shake machine. :hmm:

Would filling the engine with water have caused this? :doh:

anyway, I'm going to do a compression test today and will probably have to pull the heads to change the head gaskets again. Hopefully the piston rings aren't toast. If I get low compression numbers how do i test to see if it's the piston rings and not the head gasket?

Do I pour a little bit of motor oil in through the spark plug hole and see if the compression improves? If it does then it is the piston rings right? If it doesn't then it is either the head gasket or both?

thanks,

Sengk

I always understood that unless it was a newish engine oil would/should always improve compression. I think by how much is the significant factor.
If you've had water in the engine bores then surely we should expect some whipped cream !

Anyone ?

[Marksman]

Will let you know when we drain Paff's :hidesbehi

Owen.

[Paff]

Hopefully get round to that this weekend once I've finished changing the rad

[Garbe]

How you getting on Sengk?

[sengk]

I haven't had a chance to do a compression test on all of the cylinders yet. I've been working on my friends mazda miata, mx-5. Had to change his timing belt and water pump. I only managed to do the compression test on cylinder 2 and it came out to be 160-170 psi.

is that too low? i think the manual said that it should be 178 PSI or more and the minimum pressure was 142 PSI with the difference between cylinders at 14psi. However the compression test that i did was on a cold port and polished engine so i dont know if that would lower it from the stock compression pressure.

Hopefully i can get around to checking the compression on all of the cylinders today or tomorrow.


Sengk

[Garbe]

iirc paul did a compression test on a V6 and the readings were around 160

[sengk]

that's a load off. if the other ones are around there then i should be safe.


thanks Garbe.

[sengk]

I finally got around to doing the compression test on all cylinders. Every cylinder except number 2 was between 160 and 170 psi. Number 2 was at 120 psi and when I put a bit of starter fluid and tried again it came back with 150 psi. I guess the head gasket is ok? What do you guys think I should do about cylinder 2?

Thanks

[Marksman]

Hmm, I'm sure that wouldn't have stopped your engine running. Paff's ran on 3 cylinders when we started it at first as we chose only to dry out one bank. It was happy to run on 3 so I'd assume yours would have gone on 5?

O.S.

[sengk]

Quick update.

I finished welding up the passenger mount and now the engine is on all four mounts for the first time. I should be able to get it on all four wheels by next weekend.

Hopefully i can get some videos of it in action up on here soon.

[Whore of Babylon]

Awsome

[sengk]

Update: Here is how I solved my throttle cable problem.

The car is a USA 91 MR2 NA hardtop with cruise control.

The throttle cable exits the passenger side where it joins the cruise control box. The throttle cable is too short with or without the cruise box in place so I opted to remove the cruise box. Then I went underneath the car and removed all of the panels so that I can get access to the throttle cable from front to back. I then re-routed the cable alongside the Speedo cable on the driver side of the car using zip ties to secure it. Once I got to the engine bay I slipped it between the driver's side radiator pipe and firewall passing it up next to the shifter cables up to the throttle body. The bracket on the throttle body with the rubber piece that the throttle cable mounts on to is too wide for it to fit, so I removed the rubber piece. Then I cut off the smaller bracket to the left of it and welded it on to the original location of the rubber piece. After that I was able to mount the throttle cable. I welded the bracket to the inside of that bracket towards the throttle body so now I’m left with a little slack in the throttle cable. A better option would've been to weld it on the other side toward the firewall or even to space it out some more to take up some of the slack. Hopefully I will be able to adjust the cable from the pedal side to remove the slack. Otherwise I will have to redo the bracket again. This probably doesn't make sense without pictures so I’ll update it later with some pictures.

[Garbe]

not long now - well done matey

[sengk]

Here it is. The video of my first test drive in my new V6 powered MR2.
There still some kinks that i need to work out but over all i'm very happy with it. I can't believe how smooth and quiet it is. I can't even feel or hear the engine at idle even though i filled my torque mounts. The torque is just awesome. I couldn't help myself and smoked a tire on the way back. The stage 3 clutch seems to be doing it's job, hopefully it will last. I will need to workout my clutch leg some more. The clutch pedal is really stiff to depress. You can tell in the video that the car died on me as i was pulling out of the driveway.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ESKp2L6DLNU

[Marksman]

Superb :thumbsup: Was the stall down to the driver? Have you modified the idle valve to help prevent this from happening?

All the best,

Owen.

[sengk]

Superb :thumbsup: Was the stall down to the driver? Have you modified the idle valve to help prevent this from happening?

All the best,

Owen.

All driver error. :blush: The stage 3 clutch was too manly for me. :thumbsup:

[loadswine]

Sounds brilliant, well done!

[snowtigger]

sounds rorty dude have agood one

[sengk]

Thanks guys. you have no idea how relieved I am that it actually runs and drive. This is the first time that i've taken on something of this magnitude. I still have a few things to do to restore the car back to good condition. First thing i'm going to tackle next is the braking system.


Cheers :beer:

[Garbe]

Well done Sengk - I note you have a few things left to do, i will tell you that V6 coversions are always a work in progress.
Sounds awsome:thumbsup: what exhaust are you runnning

[sengk]

running a HKS exhaust and open filter.

[Shorty]

Great stuff sengk! Sounds good:)

[sengk]

I think i didn't wire the charging system correctly because when I rev the engine the gauge lights get brighter.

any ideas guys?

[Paul Woods]

remove the alternator plug from the ....um....alternator :) and with the ignition switched on check all 3 terminals on the plug for 12v... if one or more is absent then get back to me.

[sengk]

Paul,

All 3 wires have power.

It seems that the problem isn't consistant. Today the roblem seemed to have gone a way for awhile then it breifly appeared again. I've also noticed that when this problem appears the engine can't hold an idle.

Maybe I have a bad alternator? I'll go get it checked out once I have some time.

[sengk]

Paul,
All three wire have power.

It seems that the problem isn't consistant. Today the roblem seemed to have gone a way for awhile then it breifly appeared again. I've also noticed that when this problem appears the engine can't hold an idle.

Maybe I have a bad alternator? I'll go get it checked out once I have some time.

[Paul Woods]

yeah the engine cant hold idle because the power feed side of the ISCV is too low to keep the valve open,it needs at least 13v to function properly otherwise it will start to close....its only supposed to be controlled via the earthing side of the valve which is controlled by the ecu so if you have poor charging the valve starts to close due to the diminished power its getting,a bit like dimming a bulb by reducing its power rather than its earth.

Get your charging rate checked,sounds like a dodgy alternator now

[sengk]

Paul,

What amp are your alternators rated at? The other board suggested that the 3vz alternator isn't up to the task of powering everything plus the electric power steering in the mr2.

Thanks,
Seng

[Paul Woods]

believe me mate theres far more electrical equipment on a camry than on any mr2,thats nonsense im afraid.... check your charge rate,you should be seeing at least 14.5v at 3000rpm

[sengk]

ok. thanks paul. I can always count on you.
:thumbsup:

[sengk]

Guys,

I just experienced this problem last night. It was a little windy so just slightly colder than normal. I've never had this problem before.

I dont have the proper tach gauge installed so i dont know the exact rpms so this was all observed on the stock gauge.

First there was a problem with my alternator providing enough power for my powersteering as the 3vzfe alternator was only 80amps so i replaced it with my mr2 alternator which is rated at 100amps. It was probably a bad alternator like Paul said but rather than spending money on a new one I just made the old mr2 one fit.

Last night i started the car and got a lumpy idle. It would go up to 2000 rpm and down to 500 rpm. the engine stalled a couple of times so i had to use the throttle to keep the revs up to ge tit out of the drive way. I did some searching and it seems like you guys are having similar problems to this.

After i got it out of the driveway and down the street, i took it up to about 4-5k rpm and it felt like i had hit fuel cut. the engine would cut out then back in. The car started bucking. if I kept it under 4k rpm it ran fine, but if I came to the stop the engine will die.

Has any one experienced this fuel cut issue when cold? Like i said, i've never had this issue before. i've had a lumpy idle before when cold but i've always been able to drive it normally.

Oh I also dont have a cold start injector installed and no EGR system.


I've been searching for a manual ecu but haven't been able to find a camry with the 3vzfe in the wrecking yards.

thanks,
Seng

[sengk]

I noticed that paul has developed a solution for the stalling issue with a modification to the IAC valve but my welding skills aren't as percise and shipping things overseas is not an option.

I took a look athe the toyota training manual on the 3vzfe. I looked at the IACV system in particular and it says that it requires the following inputs to adjust the IACV properly: Crank position, throttle position, ECT, speed, AC switch, check connector, neutral start switch, +B battery.

Most of these should've been taken care of by Paul's wiring guide so i'll be focusing on locating the proper signals for the speed, AC, and neutral start switch signals.

At first I thought that the speed signal would have to be left out becuase we have a cable driven system, but after looking through the repair manual and wiring guide I discovered that the speedometer acutually converts the mechanical signal into a digital one for the ecu. I took the gauge cluster out and tested it and the speedo does give out the needed 4 pulses required by the 3vzfe ecu per revolution of the speedo cable.

I'll report back when I've actually wired these sensors up to the ecu and done some test runs.

Let me know if i'm headed down the wrong path here. :blabla:

[Garbe]

sengk sounds like an interesting idea - good luck with it

[sengk]

I finished wiring in the AC switch, NSW, and SPD. Both of my problems still remain.

But for right now i want to focus on the problem of why my engine is acting like it's hitting fuel cut at 2500-3500 rpm. The RPM at which it happens depends on how much throttle I give it at the beginning. If i give it WOT at the start then it will hit fuel cut at 2k to 2.5k rpm.

Has anyone experienced this in their swaps? This just started happening last week. I remember the weather was a little colder than normal. I've never had this problem before then. The last thing i did to the car was clean the AFM with some MAF cleaner and replace the filter earlier that day.

On another note I've manged to calibrate my mr2 tach to match the V6 tach with a resistor and a trim poteniometer for adjustability. I wasn't able to find any V6 camrys or es300s in my area so i had to go this route. It seems acurate compared to my aftermarket tach, but i haven't tested it pass 4k rpm or under load because of the problem i'm having. I'll post up some info on the mod once i verify that it's acurate enough in the higher RPMS.

Thanks everyone.

[sengk]

Yeah I read about that problem today in an old post and will be switching it back, but this problem started before I made the switch to the clock speedo signal. It was originaly wiried to the +5v at the AFM per Paul's instructions.

[Garbe]

Since the weather here has got cold - When I first drive the car, it does not want to rev past 2.5k rpm - Once warmed up it is fine.

[sengk]

Since the weather here has got cold - When I first drive the car, it does not want to rev past 2.5k rpm - Once warmed up it is fine.

Sounds like the same problem i'm having, but i haven't been running the car long enough to warm it up to see if the problem goes away. There's no work around for this?

[Paul Woods]

5v at the AFM seng? thats probably your issue! i use the 5v signal at the TPS...Blue/red wire... thats the one you want.

[sengk]

ahhhh. I'm such an idiot. maybe it will work once i manage to wire it up correctly tonight.

thanks paul.

[Paul Woods]

sounds like the 5v AFM signal thats supposed to lower to 2-3v under throttle is kicking the Sp1 back into a timing retard situation...or something like that! its got to be a fixed 5v signal to keep the Sp1 locked.

[sengk]

I may just be confused with the cor wiring right now. i'll have to check where it was originally wired to later tonight. Anyway right now the Sp1 is wired directly to the spd signal from the speedo clock in the dash.

This problem started before i even messed with the wiring. It had been running fine except for the lumpy idle since i finished the install.

[Paul Woods]

the sp1 needs to be connected to the blue/red wire on the TPS plug

[sengk]

Paul,
btw I only changed the wiring around to see if i could find a solution for the lumpy idle issue that we all seem to share. I saw your fix for the idle issue but i didn't think that my welding skills were percised enough to do the modifications. I didn't want to risk damaging my IACV because these engines are hard to come by in the local yards.

i guess i'll just use the throttle stop screw adjustment like some of you guys out there until we can figure out why this is happening.

[Paul Woods]

seng there isnt a lumpy idle issue?? well not on my conversions anyway,it was a stall issue that happened only on the warm up and only at a specific moment during driving and coming to junctions....once it stalled and was restarted it would never stall again until cold.

Why dont you send me the ISCV and i will mod it for you? takes 2 secs....but if you have a lumpy idle i suggest theres something else not right here...

[Garbe]

Sengk - Are you sure you have the ignition leads on correctly
Its been done before lol

[sengk]

Sengk - Are you sure you have the ignition leads on correctly
Its been done before lol

Yes and i was the one who made that mistake when i was finishing up my swap.

Anyway I've found the problem. When I cleaned the AFM i must've done it upside down with the black plastic cover pointed toward the ground. I guess some of the crud that was cleaned off got on to the shaft and in the area under the black plastic cap. So as i was idling the car the cold air dried out the cleaning fluid and caused the AFM flap to become stuck with about an inch opening.

This explains why I was able to do partial throttle but not WOT. At partial throttle the fueling matched the small intake opening but at WOT the fueling was too rich and caused the engine to cut out.

thanks everyone for your help.

Sengk

[sengk]

seng there isnt a lumpy idle issue?? well not on my conversions anyway,it was a stall issue that happened only on the warm up and only at a specific moment during driving and coming to junctions....once it stalled and was restarted it would never stall again until cold.

Why dont you send me the ISCV and i will mod it for you? takes 2 secs....but if you have a lumpy idle i suggest theres something else not right here...

Thanks for the offer Paul. I'll let you know if I dont figure something out.

[Garbe]

One problem out of the way :thumbsup:

[sengk]

reinstalled the AFM last night and it works great now.

[sengk]

This is a write up on how I modified a stock mr2 NA tachometer to read a v6 engine signal properly.

I read that a 97+ Camry tach is a direct replacement for the mr2 one but I was unable to locate any at the junk yards so this left me with only two options: installing an aftermarket tach or modifying the stock tach. I didn’t want to give cops any more reasons to pull me over and now that I’m older it looks sort of silly to me now so I went with the latter option.


Here are the websites that I found helpful for this mod:

http://www.mindspring.com/~jayk3/toyota/tachmod.htm

http://mr2wiki.com/MKII/3vzfeTACH


Requirements:
Non-turbo tach – This mod was done on a non-turbo tach so I don’t know if it will work on a turbo tach, but I don’t see why not.
Soldering iron
Solder
10k or 5k ohm 15-turn trim potentiometer – radio shack $3
22k ohm resistor ¼ or ½ watt 5% tolerance – radio shack $1
Multi-meter
Soldering skills
Hot glue gun and glue stick
Quick splice connector (http://www.midterminc.com/en-us/dept_52.html)
Some wire
Electrical tape
Wire stripper and cutter

http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/9006/1003383gr3.th.jpg (http://img521.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1003383gr3.jpg)

Disclaimer:
This modification could possibly leave your tach non-functional. Do not hold me accountable for what you do to your own car. Proceed at your own risk.

Okay let’s get down to business.

Step 1: Remove the combination meter from your car and remove the front plastic cover to get access to the gauges– please refer to the bgb for this step.

Step 2: Flip the gauge cluster over and remove the three screws holding the tach to the gauge cluster. You should see SE, M+, and M- next to the screws. After you remove the screws the tach gauge will fall out of the front of the gauge cluster.


http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/4189/1003401yq2.th.jpg (http://img251.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1003401yq2.jpg)

http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/5620/1003400ec8.th.jpg (http://img239.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1003400ec8.jpg)

http://img48.imageshack.us/img48/3481/1003368zy7.th.jpg (http://img48.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1003368zy7.jpg)

Step 3: Using your multi-meter set to read 200k ohms find the 43k resistor on the tach circuit board. It’s the biggest one there. Now use your soldering iron and remove the resistor from the circuit board and replace it with one of the 22k resistors you bought. The orientation of the resistor doesn’t matter so don’t worry about it.

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/7934/1003375ba8.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1003375ba8.jpg)

Step 4: Using your multi-meter again, find the 7.5k resister. It should be the second largest one compared to the 43k resistor. It might even be the same size, I don’t know because I threw them out already. Use your soldering iron, remove the 7.5k resistor and replace it with the trim potentiometer. The potentiometer has 3 leads. Use the middle one and the one furthest away from that. You will have to bend the pins out some to fit it in the holes in the circuit board. Be careful with the pins because they break off easily. Break the unused lead off of the potentiometer and secure the potentiometer to the circuit board with the hot glue gun while making sure that the leads on the potentiometer aren’t touching any other connections on the circuit board.

http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/4891/1003374jq4.th.jpg (http://img148.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1003374jq4.jpg)

Step 5: After calibrating my tach I ended up with a resistance of 3.27k on the potentiometer, so as a base line you should use your multi-meter, set it to 20k ohm, and adjust the potentiometer via the little screw head to 3.27k. This way you wont have to do a lot of adjustments on the car.

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/7838/1003377at8.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1003377at8.jpg)

Step 6: Don’t install the tach gauge back into the cluster you wont be able to adjust the potentiometer that way. Take the 3 screws that you removed from the gauge cluster to remove the tach in step 2 and tread them half way into the holes on the back of the tach gauge circuit board where it says M+, M-, and SE. Use quick splice connector and some wire to splice into B3 on the B connector of the combination meter wiring harness. This will be your tach signal. You will also need a +12v and ground connection. I removed the connector on the back of the cigarette lighter to get the ground and power connections. Run two wires into this connector and use your multi-meter to test them to see which wire is power and which is ground. If you can’t remember, label them.

http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/8015/1003399pu1.th.jpg (http://img225.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1003399pu1.jpg)

http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2005/04/52.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1003382eb3.jpg)

***Warning*** the repair manual says that you should never let the tach signal touch ground while the car is running, so be careful!

Step 7: The stock tach gauge has 3 screws/terminal posts: M- (Tach signal), M+ (+12v power), SE (Ground). Your aftermarket gauge should have these same connections plus one extra wire for the backlight. You can hookup the backlight wire to the +12v power wire or leave it unwired. Now just connect both gauges up using the wires that you ran in step 6 and tape all the connections up with electrical tape.

http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2005/04/52.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1003382eb3.jpg)

Step 8: Now start the car and hold it at a steady RPM and adjust your stock tach to match the aftermarket one. Make sure you use different RPM points to calibrate. I used 1k, 2k, 3k, and 6k. Keep an eye on both gauges as you rev to see if the stock gauge is more or less doing what the aftermarket one is doing, adjust the potentiometer with a flat head screw drive as necessary.

Step 9: After you are satisfied with the calibration of the stock tack turn off the car and disconnect both tach. Remove the power and ground wiring. You can also remove the tach signal wire if you want but I left it there with the end taped up incase I wanted to install and aftermarket tach in the future. Make sure you tape it up with electrical tape and label it so you know what it is later.

Step 10: reinstall the stock tach back into the gauge cluster and reinstall everything back in your car the reverse way you took it apart.

That’s it. I tried to be as detailed as I could but if I missed anything please let me know.

[OlberJ]

Good write up sir :clap:

[sengk]

Good write up sir :clap:

Thank you. glad I can help out. I hope it wil help someone out there on the internet.

lol :thumbsup:

[Garbe]

Sengk that was a great solution :thumbsup: - you got an electrical background?

[sengk]

No. I like to tool around. I've screwed my fair share of things up but I'm a DIY kind of guy and like to figure out how things work.

[Garbe]

I did my engine swap and followed Paul's idiots guide to wiring the 3VZ but all this electrical wizardry with resistors etc is way over my head.
nice one sengk

[GaryA]

Nice bit of electronically stuff you performed on the tacho , great info :thumbsup:

[sengk]

Here are some pictures of the new downpipe that I just finished last night.
I hot some horible welds from my cheap $100 flux core welder. Good weld penetration though.

It's 2.25 inch from the stock flanges going to a 2.5 flex section and from there 2.5 inches all the way to a 2.25 inch HKS NA muffler. I will replace the muffler with a 2.5 inch one once I have some money to purchase it and a new catalytic converter as well.

http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/6885/1003606xn3.th.jpg (http://img181.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1003606xn3.jpg)

http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/507/1003607qj1.th.jpg (http://img218.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1003607qj1.jpg)

http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/2042/1003608fp7.th.jpg (http://img218.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1003608fp7.jpg)

[loadswine]

That's nice and neat with a smooth transition going on. I like the small brace between the pipes as well.:thumbsup:

[sengk]

Thanks. hoping to dyno it soon. I'm just waiting for the local dyno shop to have a special.

[Garbe]

Nice one Sengk - does the pipe go over the subframe or below it?

[sengk]

goes below it. It would be too difficult for me to make one that goes above it without access to a bender. I'm hoping that there will be enough clearence so that it wont scrap over bumps.

[sengk]

I got a chance to fit the downpipe today. It only about 2 inches off the ground but didn't catch o anything when i drove around I hope it stays that way.

[sengk]

My first version of the downpipe scraped because of a dip on the freeway so I cut it up and made version two. Now it goes above the crossmember. The lowest point now is right by the transmission which is in a better position between the rear wheels. Clearance is pretty tight next to the driveshaft but no rubbing so far after two days.

http://img162.imageshack.us/img162/1043/1003666ko7.th.jpg (http://img162.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1003666ko7.jpg)

http://img162.imageshack.us/img162/1665/1003670wi6.th.jpg (http://img162.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1003670wi6.jpg)

Here is a shot of my valve cover for my MK3 that I painted tonight. I thought it turned out pretty good.

http://img162.imageshack.us/img162/4994/1003665en9.th.jpg (http://img162.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1003665en9.jpg)

[Garbe]

Sengk you don't appear to have a flexi section on that exhaust?

[sengk]

Sengk you don't appear to have a flexi section on that exhaust?

I have two actually. It's hard to get a good pick because i forgot to take the picture when it was off of the car and I am too lazy to take it off. there is a flexi section right underneith the oil pan coming off of the first bank and the other flexi section is coming down from the rear bank right off of the manifold. This second flexi section might not be a good placement but I have filled motor mounts so the engine doesn't move as much as stock.

This new version of my down pipe also has the added benefit of being equal lenght and sounds a lot better.

[sengk]

I recently developed an oil leak at one of the cam plugs on the head. the plug looks like it covers the hole where the distributor would go into on the other head.

It's a metal cap covered with black plastic. you can see a picture of it at the link below.

Anyone know what the toyota part number for it is?

http://www.autopartsfair.com/toyota-engine_parts/catalog-item-376789.html

thanks

[Garbe]

Sorry can't help with the part, I am interested to know if you have noticed a difference since fitting the new exhaust with the y-section?

[sengk]

The new y-pipe feels more free flowing and sounds better, but my muffler is still a restriction. i haven't had the time to build a new one yet. I''m thinking about something like the HKS Hiper Exhaust
http://www.madpsi.net/Performance/Toyota%20MR2%20(SW20)/Exhaust%20Database/MadPSI%20-%20HKS_Hiper2.png

http://www.madpsi.net/MR2ExhaustsPage.htm

I also picked up some 2000+ celica seats last night. I placed them into the 2 to have a look and they looked great in there. I will be modding the rails to fit them this weekend. I'll try to remember to take some pictures so that I can post them up here.

[Garbe]

I see you like the single exit flavour, I had one for a while but it was just too loud for me as I do alot of motorway (freeway) driving.

[sengk]

Update***

Bad News guys.

I went to the BAR test(engine swap certification) last friday and failed. They hassled me about my y-pipe because it has a 90* bend to connect to the mr2 muffler. they want it to come straight out so it looks like the diagram they had of the camry y-pipe. they also said that I need to remove the S54 Na transmission and replace it with the camry transmission.

Here is even worst news. Later that day I was driving on the free way and my engine started making a ticking/knocking sound under acceleration. It was very light at first so I turned around and headed home. I was about 5-10 miles from my house when i turned around and It started getting louder and louder as I went along. Half a mile from my house the engine seized up and gave out so I had it towed back. This sucks but in a way I'm glad that it happened when it did. I was pretty close to my house so my insurance covered the towing. I was planning to sell the car so I guys it was trying to get back at me. I'm glad I didn't sell it yet though, I would hate for someone to pay their hard earned cash and have the card die on them.

I have a spare block at home that I believe has a good bottom end. I'm thinking about pulling the heads and swapping it over to that block then replace it in the car. Either that or put a 5sfe back in there or sell it as a 3vzfe ready shell.

I'm still trying to decide what I want to do, but I have to finish parting out the MK1 in the garage first so I can have room to work on it. i might be able to get a clean MK1 hardtop shell for free so thats a bit of good news. I could be switching ot the dark side and join the MK1 boys. :twisted:

[OlberJ]

Come to the dark side.






We have cookies :mrgreen:

[sengk]

oatmeal raisin. Alright you've conviced me. Car is now sold and will be picked up tonight.

now where is my cookie. I demand a cookie. :snooty:

[Garbe]

Bad news Sengk, how do the other guys get round this?

[sengk]

the certification process isn't a standard procedure with each state. We are more stricter in california. some state dont have to do it at all. Within california the law leaves room for interpretation of what is legal and what is not. so we are left at the mood of the state referee inspecting the engine.

[Garbe]

Bugger

[Conor]

Ohhh.. there you are.. haha. I hadn't put two and two together until just now. Go figure. *facepalm*

[Sketch_hs]

Hey guys I bought sengk car and am in the process of rebuilding it!

Sengk, thanks for the awesome deal! I removed the engine today and there are not one but TWO holes in the block :P

new engine is being delivered tomorrow, I see you ported the heads on the motor, how did those turn out for you by the way? I might just put the stock complete new long block to get her running for now...

You wouldnt believe how nicely that paint shined up! amazing what a few hours and a power buffer can do,

keep in touch man!

-Tyler

[loadswine]

TWO holes in the block!! I'd love to find out what caused that failure.
The work looked so clean and precise when it was being done,a real shame.
Still, soon be up and running again I guess.

[Conor]

Hey guys I bought sengk car and am in the process of rebuilding it!

Sengk, thanks for the awesome deal! I removed the engine today and there are not one but TWO holes in the block :P

new engine is being delivered tomorrow, I see you ported the heads on the motor, how did those turn out for you by the way? I might just put the stock complete new long block to get her running for now...

You wouldnt believe how nicely that paint shined up! amazing what a few hours and a power buffer can do,

keep in touch man!

-Tyler

Tyler,
Daaaamn, nice to see you're already going full steam ahead on that car. You'll definitely like how it drives.. very linear..

You ever surf through MR2OC? We have a pretty active local section for the Bay Area/Sacramento region. :)

[Sketch_hs]

Hey guys the motor is in but im not getting spark... i didnt change anything in the previous wiring not sure whats going on... its been a long day. Anyone have a link to how to wire the car so i can double check everything? or is there any sensor(s) that if are bad will cause no spark condition?

thanks!

[Bev]

The wiring guide is in the downloads section ;)

Bev

[sengk]

Hey guys I bought sengk car and am in the process of rebuilding it!

Sengk, thanks for the awesome deal! I removed the engine today and there are not one but TWO holes in the block :P

new engine is being delivered tomorrow, I see you ported the heads on the motor, how did those turn out for you by the way? I might just put the stock complete new long block to get her running for now...

You wouldnt believe how nicely that paint shined up! amazing what a few hours and a power buffer can do,

keep in touch man!

-Tyler

Although i did practice on my spare motor first, it was my first time porting heads so dont expect miracles. ;) I'm sure it will be a big improvement when boosted though.

Man you weren't kidding about having that car up and running in a week. You move fast. lol I'm glad you think that it's a great deal and it couldn't have gone to a better person. I miss the car but atleast it will be in the hands of someone who willgive it some TLC.

I always knew that the paint was good under there but never had the time to buff it out. Great job on getting that baby to shine. I'm sure I'm not the only one here interested in some pictures of the block and body itself, so post them up when you get a chance.

As far as the spark issue and wiring. I used the guide that Paul provided in the downloads section. I remember reading here that someone had a problem with spark because of the igniter not being grounded properly. Just make sure you have some nice grounds to the engine, transmission, and igniter bracket.

Oh and for te Referee testing I forgot to mention that the ref dinged me for not having an O2 sensor after the cat. Never having seen the camry setup i didn't know it had a 3rd o2 sensor. Supposively all california camrys came with a 3rd o2 sensor. The harness in there right now is a manual harness I got at a pick-n-pull in Redding, Ca but I dont remember seeing a plug for the 3rd o2 sensor. If there is no plug there you should atleast put in a dummy sensor there to pass the visual with the ref. Double check the documentation though as I dont know if the manual camry came with the 3rd o2 sensor. If you find that it doesn't have one then print out a copy for the ref.

Feel free to contact me if you have anymore questions. I want to see it up and running as much as you do. :thumbsup:

Seng

[Sketch_hs]

all the wiring seems good... power is getting everywhere!

still no spark!

I think i may have goofed up... when i first was cranking the motor (coil unpluged to build oil pressure) I forgot to hook up the body-transmission ground which cause one of the small grounds from the front head to the bracket holding the igniter to get really hot and start smoking!

Maybe this fried the igniter (or some other items)? everything else seems correct!

any one got an extra local i can swap in? god damn I wanted to drive this car today :(

[sengk]

That doesn't sound so good. :) I guess go get another igniter and try it out. I remember it wasn't that expensive at the junk yard, if you can find one that is. Actually the last time I went to sacramento there were like 3 camrys. You're in the right place to find them. They get stripped so fast here in the bay area.

[Sketch_hs]

yeah pretty much if the igniter is getting power with ignition ON and im seeing no spark = bad igniter/ igniter control box?

Im trying to think of what else it might be. I've got a possible source for a good cheap igniter ( and everything on the bracket ) and maybe even another ECU.

Might as well buy it... even if i dont need it im sure someone here could use it or maybe if I v6 another mr2 :P

[Sketch_hs]

update:

i tested the coil on my 5sfe powered mk2 and its fine...

I guess it could be the ignition module but im really starting to suspect wiring somewhere is bad

:(

[Sketch_hs]

HEY ALL!

Don't forget your grounds! I missed a ground strap from under the intake manifold, soon as I plugged it in I had spark and injectors firing!!

Driven it a few miles around town seem to be running great and pretty quick... not like mike mkiv supra fast but it can get out of its own way.

Sure sounds great too. Thanks for all the help everyone

[Conor]

Good times. Let's see some pics! :)

[Sketch_hs]

PICS

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2008/07/41.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2008/07/42.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2008/07/43.jpg


http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2008/07/44.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2008/07/45.jpg

VIDEO 3rd gear pull doesnt really do it justice

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tIaSWYgrv5I

[MOG7]

At what revs does the rev limiter kick in?

[OlberJ]

7,100rpm i believe Mog. :)

[Sketch_hs]

yups!!!

[Conor]

I hear you on the 3rd gear pull.. Gotta love how you can just drop into third on the highway, stomp it and be doing 20 over in just a couple seconds.. :)

[Sketch_hs]

here is a new video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yamtfeBsMAQ