Woooooo!! New turbo rocks!!

[Sponge Bob]

Sweet Jesus!!!

Now that's what i'm talking about... took it for a little test spin to see if we're getting some proper joose from the new turbo... i'm assuming the boost gauge is shot - because that was fast!!! :boogie:

Dropped the clutch pulling out of a road - back end spins out :jump: - rev counter hovering around 5-6k - pulls pulls pulls... cram it into second gear - foot down a bit, more pulling... :driving: no more tho - left it at that for this eve as it was wet and my brakes are not up to std... plus these private roads are not very long :whistle:

Just need a set of ST185's (are stock brakes on the back ok to pass an MOT?) and i'm good to go.


Few slight problems tho:

- Gearbox feels very clunky when I change gear - not the actual changing, and getting it in - it's when I left off the clutch I get a knock/clunk sound - any suggestions.
- Getting a vibration / rattle sound - thinking it could be exhaust or IC piping but not sure.
- Getting some smoke off the actual turbo when I open the lid - i've not run it much, so could this just be excess oil / crap on the actual parts just burning off - or should I be looking for a leak somewhere?

[Marksman]

Great to hear!

All the best,

Owen.

[adamh]

good news ash, sounds like it turned yer pants to sponge :mrgreen: .. assuming the found the pressure gremlin?.. what was it..

time will tell on the smoke issue.
got some decent gearbox oil in there ?

[Sponge Bob]

Hehe - i'm not sure... I think the old turbo was just pretty knackered - I did have to put bits from two turbos together to make it, so that prob didn't help.

Cheers for the ideas mate - I have been using cheap gearbox oil... will try and get some good stuff and see if that helps...

[Jiff Lemon]

It got a slipper in there ash? All the mounts good and tight?

[Sponge Bob]

Hmm - good point Jeff - I made the torque mounts in a bit of a rush, so the prob could be there - actually... that could that be why the gearbox clunks - perhaps the back & front torque mounts were made wrong / not strong enough...??????

[Peebs]

Superb to hear about your new found rush Ash.

As for the clunk...look for anything that might be making contact with the car body whislt driving (front to rear movement most possible cause) when the engine would potentially be accelerating or decelerating (changing agle...some 20mm top and bottom is common)

[superchargedsam]

congrats fella ! jealous I am not !

;)

[Paul Woods]

yep as mentioned check the torque mounts mate,could just be slack nuts! check everywhere for metal on metal contact on everything that might be fouling when you change gear,also its worth bearing in mind if you do have something contacting metal like this it will be triggering the knock sensor which will then pull your timing,so little vibrations and knocks cost power!

[Gary Symons]

yep as mentioned check the torque mounts mate,could just be slack nuts! check everywhere for metal on metal contact on everything that might be fouling when you change gear,also its worth bearing in mind if you do have something contacting metal like this it will be triggering the knock sensor which will then pull your timing,so little vibrations and knocks cost power!

Paul, would this flag up an ecu code?

[biteme]

Knock codes do normally fire up ECU codes. I think it's 43.

[nik]

clunks/vibrations could be a few..all swaps have them..
for me the clunk when accelerating was the exhaust on the mk1 chassis..
vibrations were IC inlet pipe hitting strut tower and rear firewall hole..and also the same pipe hitting the engine cover (they seem to flex a bit more than youd think at the right frequency)..
check all mount bolts..check the same for fouling..

[biteme]

What turbo did you have put on there dude?

[Sponge Bob]

Excellent advice guys - really useful... I did not think about the knock sensors and bits or that the engine rotated that much on acceleration - I think I may fill the mounts with that poly-urethrane stuff... I like the idea of the engine staying relatively put - and saying that, any movement in the engine restricted is surely adding to power? That's lost energy!

My IC pipes are not secured down properly - so that will be one of the possible many vibrations...

I'm using another CT26 from a IMOC'er Johnny - seems ok so far, but will be watching it very carefully...

I'll pull some codes tonight and see if anything comes up!!

[biteme]

I don;t know what boost you're running, but if it's off stock ecu and on std intercooler then I think you should go to 14/15psi MAX on teh CT26, it's a hair dryer after that.

[Sponge Bob]

I'm probably only pushing out safe-mode boost... once I get a decent gauge in i'll be able to find out what's going on for sure.

[Paul Woods]

ash is your t-vsv still hooked up?

i think the only error code you get re knock sensor is if it fails altogether,im not sure it flags a code when it senses knock,pretty sure all that happens is the timing gets pulled.

[Sponge Bob]

Yeah, i've still got the t-vsv on - i've seen stuff about this before... should I remove it?

[Garbe]

great news hopefully get a second spin when its finished.

[Paul Woods]

yeah just fit a boost controller and block off the pipe coming from the actuator backwards under the inlet manifold.

[Sponge Bob]

Right... well it seems that I appear to be giving off 4psi... now where does that number come from?

[adamh]

have a snoop in this thread ash, v helpful

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/showthread.php?t=1060&highlight=turbo+boost+problems

[Sponge Bob]

Excellent thread directing Ad - will try those fault fixes asap

[Sponge Bob]

Well I've pulled the pipe coming from the turbo housing to the actuator and blanked that off - i've also gone to the T-VSV and replaced the cylindrical VTV disc thing which comes just off it with a piece of metal - so it's blanked off both to and from...

Now - should this yield 7psi?

[biteme]

I think so - but what it will do is make your boost more consistent. It will always run the same boost now.

Check out the Fensport site for uprated actuators if you want to up the boost without a controller. It allows a safe upgrade and also allows you to keep 3-D control of the boost, unlike a boost controller which can just sky it at low throttle input.

If you plan on going over 12psi, you'll need a Fuel Cut Defender mod. A 3.4w Zener Diode will do it :)