How can i make Penelope go faster???

[Miss.Pitstop]

All ideas would be appreciated!!!:P

[Zip]

Tow Truck?:shrug:

[Goldy]

Put you and stu on a diet? :boogie:
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e172/minalina/freaky-1.jpg


Seriously though, car weightloss is a great idea, take out as much weight as you can, carpets, boards, spare wheels, get a lightweight battery etc....

On the power front maybe a bigger intercooler or chargecooler as the mk2 turbo one isn't amazing, some more boost, what turbo are you running by the way? Mappable ecu (powerfc) or something like that could be a good idea. All depends on what power your aiming for!!

[Zip]

Easiest way is to lose weight............from the car of course!!! :mrgreen:

Other way is to use more boost, and yet another way is to improve your driving skills so that overall, for the same stretch of road, youll be faster than you would otherwise be.
Or a combination of all three would see a benefit. Oh yes! :)

Ps, having a good poo before you drive will also make you faster......:D


Does she want to go faster or has it died over the last few hours?:eh:

If its to go faster she could try a TB first and try to twin charge it.

But if its died i stick by my tow truck comentlol

[Miss.Pitstop]

thanx for that Tony x

Zip........this has got to be the first serious thread i have ever posted...i feel upset that you feel the need to joke about my baby!!!

...just popping out to get some slimfast......

[Zip]

thanx for that Tony x

Zip........this has got to be the first serious thread i have ever posted...i feel upset that you feel the need to joke about my baby!!!


Awww, read my second post and then forgive me :)


Is it a sun roof?
If so then you could remove that to save some weight.
Also use perspex for the back window and the little windows on the car, you know the little triangle ones?
You could put on a Fibreglass bonnet.
The best way to lose weight though is to get lighter wheels because it helps with the unsprung mass:shades:(I think its called unsprung mass)

[Miss.Pitstop]

ok zip, your forgiven...no, its not a T-Bar...have got fibreglass wings already...

[Zip]

ok zip, your forgiven...no, its not a T-Bar...have got fibreglass wings already...

No not T bar. Just the Sunroof itself?

Is it a tin top or does it have a window in the roof?

Any idea how much your Alloys weigh?

[superchargedsam]

yes zip it is and yes lighter wheels help ! strip the interior out for the weekend and only use one seat to go up the strip, take head unit out anything you can thnk of get outta there ! run as little fuel as you can without runing the risk of starvation on accleration ! fill her up with optimax before hand and reset the ecu for the drive to the pod ! add water injection and up the boost ! make sure she has some nice oil in her as well ! empty the boot totally and take the spoiler off as it aint gonna help up the strip at all ! could remove sunroof for wieght loss but not sure of the effect this would have on air flow which wont matter for at least first third of the strip !

All esle fails just add NOS, cheapest and easiest option for bigger power !

[Miss.Pitstop]

ooo....thank u sam...will take your advice on board!!!:thumbsup:

Basically....we r having some money to have some work done to the house....so have agreed to spend upto 1k on Penelope...

[superchargedsam]

tubular manifold and downpipe are a must if you havent already !

[superchargedsam]

OK for a grand I would get a CT20b on there, tubular manifold, downpipe and water injection with boost controller ! should see another 20-40bhp !

Or go for manifold downpipe, NOS and unichip with mapping !

[Miss.Pitstop]

Goldy...shes got a ct26 hybrid 380bhp rated turbo....

[superchargedsam]

hmmm never seen the CT26 rated that high but no reason why it wouldnt i guess specially if a hybrid ! have you got tubular manifold and downpipe on here then as that would spool it up quicker and help release some horses for ya !

[Marksman]

Howdy.


How can i make Penelope go faster???

(1) Get a smaller bottom.

or

(2) Let Stu drive.

:hidesbehi

No? Right then, as tothers have said weight is the killer. The stock seats weight a heck of a lot for example. Buckets are much lighter but give some thought to how to attatch them. As far as I'm aware there are no lightweight straight bolt in production kits, and welding bits of angle iron to the stock runners kinda defeats the object :-) Wheels, bumper bars, AC if fitted and stereo / speakers can all be lightened or removed on a tempoary basis. NOS would be nice too. Tyres also, no good spinning all that hard earned power away in a cloud of smoke!

Have fun!

Owen.

[Miss.Pitstop]

Thanx Owen...some good advice there...not all good, but some! lol

Why are the people of TB obsessed with the size of my bottom??? eh?

[Jiff Lemon]

the weight thing depends on how much of a compromise you want; The seats are a good starting point but I'd hold of replacing glass for now! Sam's tips for the strip all good - you could also look at possibly getting a set of sticky tyres purely for drag runs.

Boost control got to be looked at; Anything out there that could do gear dependant boost? That way you're sat smoking the wheels in first gear. Does Penelope have an LSD? Intercooling too - Remember your going to be sat queing prior to the run, so heat soak could be an issue (although given the next event is october, chances of it are much reduced!).

The one thing I'd definately budget for..... A rolling road session AFTER you fit your goodies - Consider it an essential.

[Miss.Pitstop]

no lsd.....need one!

[Sponge Bob]

But LSD won't make a difference on a straight line track though? It only helps on ze bends

[Jiff Lemon]

http://www.racelogic.co.uk/?show=Traction_Control

:D

[adamh]

mmm, one large :) . erm.. i'll give a, 'if it were me for instance;

forged pistons
water injection
big ends
steel gasket & studs
aftermarket ecu + re-map at increased boost

might squeeze that in budget. you allready have the turbo, have you a nice de-cat pipe?? we are aware of the luverly hks super dragger :mrgreen:

[Goldy]

Well your turbo seems pretty much sorted, do you have a boost controller / boost gauge.

The next stages for power are :

Decat pipe (a must)
Bigger/better intercooler,
More boost,
Larger injectors & ECU/Piggyback (when the fueling is maxed out)
That should get you to 300rwbhp

You'll probably be needing forged pistons after that, and maybe even cams.

LSD would probably be good for starts, as would launch control / traction control and some drag tyres

[Sponge Bob]

Am I missing the point of LSD here?

I was pretty sure it only helped you maintain traction on bends... no way of making it faster in a straight line??

Maybe i've got some research very wrong lol

[mr2aw11turbo]

Am I missing the point of LSD here?

I was pretty sure it only helped you maintain traction on bends... no way of making it faster in a straight line??

Maybe i've got some research very wrong lol


from my limted amount of understanding:-

with no LSD one wheel will spin while the other has traction such as lift off round corners or a standing start where one wheel may be on a damp pice of tarmac and the other is not

with LSD both wheels will need to lose traction to spin so in situations where a quick set off is needed LSD is not essential but very handy to have


i may be wrong but that is the basic i think

[Marksman]

Agreed.

[Sponge Bob]

I thought that with LSD, if one wheel starts to slip, then it will get worse as the engine delivers more power to that one wheel as the LSD cog will just spin from the engine torque - I think they call it slipping the diff or something... so on a standing start, if one is on a damp patch then what will actually happen is that that particular wheel will not regain control via the LSD - that's the job of traction control.

The LSD allows the outer wheel on a bend to turn faster than the inner wheel in order to ensure that there is no slip on that outer wheel...

Simon from my understanding have you got LSD round the wrong way? - with no LSD the wheels are locked together from the drive to the wheels, as they are directly linked - it is having the LSD mechanism which allows the wheels to spin at different rates, however this is based on the actual driven load on them...

[Jiff Lemon]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limited_Slip_Differential

[Goldy]

Bob, you're getting confused between :

a Locked diff (both wheels spin at the same speed no matter what) makes cornering somewhat entertaining...

an open diff (as on most cars standard) allows the wheels to spin at different speeds for going round corners but also if you spin one wheel i.e from a standing start, it will continue to spin as it spins the wheel with the least traction (as best I can explain)

an lsd is a cross between the two above, open in certain conditions and then locked in other conditions (i.e where on wheel looses traction)

An lsd will stop you from spinning one wheel when doing a standing start hence giving you more traction off the line!

[Sponge Bob]

I thought only specific types - like the Torsen diff - opened and locked in different places to compensate for one wheel completely losing traction?

Man this stuff is confusing... lol

[Marksman]

The giveaway is in the title, Limited Slip...

O.S.

[glimmer]

if the car is putting out around 380bhp then the best way to make her faster (altghough not the cheapest) is a race style gear box and clutch assembly

http://www.gearboxman.co.uk/index.html

the thing is that 7000 revs will make the car go so fast and that will never change without altering the gear ratio's
ok so with bigger turbo, pipes and water injection you will get more power you still will only get 7000 revs you just get there faster so straight line speed will not alter

[Goldy]

Jeez.... got a spare ?8 grand for a sequential gearbox? <:(

You could try the gt4 final drive mod to your gearbox, putting in the final drive cog to extend your gearing. Supposed to be good for over 180mph :cool:

[glimmer]

gear kits for various gearbox aplications arnt to bad and it would make the bigest diffrence

[Banzai]

Hi, new here, but not to turbo tuning. Absolutely the best bang for the cash would be to

1. Isolate the air intake (if it isn't already - not familiar with these cars yet) so you are only drawing cold air from outside the engine bay. This can be worth as much as 15 hp.

2. First measure your charge temps and think about fitting the biggest intercooler, (charge cooler is even better - water to air - much more effecient than air/air IC's). Cheap way I use to measure air temps on my custom turbo installs is this....

http://www.watercoolingshop.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=62&products_id=191

Quick calc shows if your in the 60% efficiency island of your compressor map for your turbo at higher boost levels, then the turbo heats the air from ambient (say 15 C) temps to 124 C. The air density falls quite a lot at these comp eff levels typical of overboosted engines. (You can calculate the eff back if you know the ambient temps).

If your IC is 60% effecient, (that will be the absolute max in that crampt engine bay), then you have an inlet temp of 58 C. Anything over 40 degrees will cause the engine management system to pull timing and also really requires more fuel octane to supress detonation. Fuels are very sensitive to inlet temps, that 18 degrees over 40 degrees is costing you at least 8 RON, which if you have det sensors as part of the OEM engine management system, will be causing the onset of det and the ECU will pull even more timing etc...vicious circle.

Also bare in mind that the OEM air temp sensors are only calbrated up to 50 degrees with linear results, some, (rover) are good for 100 degrees celcius and this will also screw up your ECUs fueling and timing with super high inlet temps.

Each reduction in charge temps of 10?C is worth at least 5hp in increased air density alone. I've seen 35 hp picked up when going to a bigger IC at similar power levels to yours.

Any reduction in charge temps will greatly increase reliability as well, reducing the thermal loading on the pistons, valves etc and give you closer to optimum timing and fueling.

If you can't change your IC, then consider intelligent core spray systems, i've knocked these up before based on these...

http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_0527/article.html?popularArticle

Also, I've used scooter electric fans on IC's before to increase air flow, but that won't help if you are just moving warm air around.

Charge coolers are the ultimate solution, especially in confined spaces with poor air flow.

Here is an SAE paper, (sorry, I'm a scientist....) on why CC's are superior to air/air IC's.

http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/pdf/papers/cooler_paper.pdf

Of course you can ice bath the coolant in these to improve eff to silly levels for drag racing and hillclimbing like I do :)

If like me you don't like the poor quality of most aftermarket stuff, you want to build your own, I have a good link if you want it as well as design advice if you are interested....I built a few of these for my cars and they work very very well. I used a scooter rad and fan for cooling the charge water.

A less restrictive air flow meter may be a good idea. Basically optimising what you have :)

[superchargedsam]

Banzai where you from fella and you still got your turbod mini ! was about to drop a tubby 1275 lump in my mini pickup before the toyota bug caught ! But always wanted to see whata turbo mini really goes like !

[superchargedsam]

oh and totally agree with charge cooling as run it on my tuned celica and the charge cooler never ever gets more than hand warm even when pushed as hard as possible !

[Miss.Pitstop]

Thanx for all you help and advice guys!!! Love you all!..?...! xxx

[Banzai]

I'm based in Cornwall but working overseas. I still have several TM's in bits again for the winter rebuild. Aiming for 200bhp out of my special 999cc short stroke engine this time :) Some club members are pushing 260bhp+ using the BMW K1100 motor bike heads, I'm building one of those as well :). One member of our club has 224bhp dyno proven out of his 1275 iron head motor with another 30's worth of nitrous....

When I'm up bristol way sometime in spring, I can bring it along to a club meet after this rebuild. My aim is to hillclimb it in the production road up to 1400cc class, (the 999cc - they do a 40% multiplier for forced induction), and I will have around 60 brake more than anyone else in the class :)

You're welcome Miss Pitstop :)

[Stu]

Ok guys thanks all for your help :thumbsup:

especially on the intercooling side of things, still can’t make our mind up which to go for Air/air, Water/air or even Ice/air!

http://twobrutal.co.uk/showthread.php?t=4545

As for the LSD I think it’s a personal preference. But I must admit I do prefer to drive cars that have them, Penelope has not got an LSD, I’m sure I’ve told everyone this before but I can get one wheel smoking when cornering hard lol

Tubular manifolds? What is to gain from these I was under the impression that you lose low down power and gain a little at the top end? Anyone recommend a good brand as I’ve heard a lot of horror stories about them cracking. Also what prices should we be paying?

While I’m thinking about it what would be gained if we dropped the super dragger off, and fitted a shorter straight through system. Lol basically a I was thinking off a 3inch stainless bit of tube from the de-cat pipe back.

After market engine management interests me a lot, which brand is best and who would you trust to fit/Map it? Also what’s the cost average cost?

I did read somewhere that fitting the rev 3 ECU and loom would gain some power and lose the air flow meter, replacing it with a map sensor would this be cost effective performance modification.

Its defiantly looking like nitrous is the quickest fix, as all the other projects I want to carry out while Penelope is off the road over winter,

And Penelope may go on a small diet over next few months

AH Stuff it!:idea: i think were going go V6 and get it twin turbo’d, any offers?

cheers,

Stu.

AKA Mr Pitstop lol