Handbrake issues

[Lee H]

Decided to change my rear pads yesterday and am having a few issues now. Firstly whoever last changed the pads hadn't lined the cut outs in the piston with the raised bump on the inner pad so I had so major funny shaped pads and knackered discs (and no doubt reduced braking efficiency!)

Wound the piston back, fitted the new pads and then discovered my handbrake wouldn't work, far too many clicks and wouldn't hold the wheel. Did a bit of digging last night and found that after winding the piston back in it needs to be wound back out 180 degrees to reset the handbrake mechanism before refitting. Did that this morning and foot brake all good however when I reconnected the handbrake cables one side was locked up completely (no handbrake applied).

Removed the centre console and slackened the adjuster off a lot and both wheels free to move. Issue I'm having though is the equaliser bar is pulling one cable more than the other when you apply the handbrake. Also one side is not fully releasing, I have to push the cable back through by hand to release it or reach under and do it on the caliper. If I disconnect the cables the handbrake arm releases fine so I'm guessing I'm going to need a new cable?

Strange now some guides mention winding the piston back out 180 and others don't. There was no way I was getting a working handbrake without.

[Chris69]

Yep sounds like a new cable, you may be able to free it up then apply grease to stop it seizing again.

[Lee H]

I'm a little confused now, just been back out for another look. On this car now the arm for the handbrake move very little before the handbrake engages. At rest the arms are against the stops on caliper (after moving them back manually).

On my other car the arms seem to have a greater range of movement before the brake locks on (handbrake is crap on that car though) and the arms don't return to the stops as the cable holds it away from them. One side more so than the other.

I think by winding the piston back out 180 it limits the movement available in the arm so not sure which car is correct. Anyone care to have a look at their car?

I know I need cables as they feel really gritty to move in and out and all the rubber boots are split near the caliper.

[Paul Woods]

The 180 wind back method is mine, i discovered that about 9 years ago when we were seeing problems with rear brakes, i can assure you it is the only and correct way to do it, even the BGB is wrong when it comes to adjusting rear Mr2 brakes.

Sounds like you need a new cable, i would replace both as it is a major pain on a roadster (tank out job)

[Lee H]

Should the handbrake mechanism on the back of the caliper only move such a small amount then? Some guides say 30 degrees but I have nowhere near that on the car I've just messed with. Once I've wound the piston back out the caliper only just goes back over the pads so there never would be much movement if it works as I think?

[Paul Woods]

A small amount of movement means you have adjusted them properly, that is what you want.

[Lee H]

Cheers Paul. Makes more sense to me that they rest on the stops when handbrake off whereas some guides have said the cables should still be pulling them slightly away from the stops even when handbrake off.

Just been shafted by Eurocarparts though, said they had cables in stock, drove down and they were wrong despite two phone calls before I set off to confirm. Fuming!

[Grenade]

I replaced both cables on my MK2. They seemed like they were not pulling the arm at the rear caliper far enough even when adjusted very tightly. I had rebuilt the calipers, but had no idea about the "wind out the pistons 180". I ended up making a cable stop type spacer that held the arm closer to it's grabbing point. The spacers worked, the wheels are free and the handbrake holds the car on a hill.

Are you suggesting that all I had to do was turn the rear pistons out a little and it would have worked properly?

[Paul Woods]

My proceedure is cables off the arms, wind pistons all the way in, wind out 180* or until the caliper is a good fit over the pads, then immediately pump the footbrake 5 or 6 times, do this on both sides, then and only then attach the cables and adjust for 3 or 4 clicks.

Perfect handbrake every time.

[Grenade]

My proceedure is cables off the arms, wind pistons all the way in, wind out 180* or until the caliper is a good fit over the pads, then immediately pump the footbrake 5 or 6 times, do this on both sides, then and only then attach the cables and adjust for 3 or 4 clicks.

Perfect handbrake every time.

And that good sir, is why you're the master. :)

[cdwood2010]

Good tip right there Paul! :)

Much thanks. You should do a little write up.

c.

[Paul Woods]

Done a few H/brake write ups now, pretty sure there is one on Imoc, i'll dig it out.

[jimi]

There's one here http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/know-your-2-knowledge-base/mr2-mk1.html?catid=6&kbartid=80

[Paul Woods]

Thanks Jimi.

[cdwood2010]

Spiffing, much appreciated.

C.

[jimi]

much appreciated.


My words to Paul for working it out in the first place and being generous enough to make the info available to everyone

:praise2:

[Paul Woods]

All part of the job Jimi, what does make me laugh is when someone pops up and says my method is wrong because they never had to use it before..... until their calipers stop working after a pad change :)

[Escy]

Was having problems with my handbrake, all sorted now thanks to this technique