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View Full Version : mk1.5 vacuum/coolant routing help!



Gothmog3vz
13-12-2012, 23:33
Hey guys, so my swap is 90% done (where it was in september, but I told myself I wouldn't touch it over the semester... ;) now its winter break).

Engine is in the car, axles hooked up, I'm just trying to figure out how to route the vacuum and coolant lines. Also need to get access to my passenger-side lock cylinder, but that's another story and I've got a haynes manual for that!

Anyone got pictures of how they routed their systems? Any help is appreciated!

adamh
17-12-2012, 22:35
this should help

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/12/124.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/12/125.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/12/126.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/12/127.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/12/128.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/12/129.jpg

do you have a 3sgte manual ? it can help with the vacuum , otherwise post up pictures of what your trying to connect, i dont have any good ones of vac, theres are two here which might help

cam cover breather

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/12/130.jpg

brake vac boost (hard pipe from inlet mani)

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/12/131.jpg

pistol pete
18-12-2012, 05:30
they are some awesome pics.. thanks

Gothmog3vz
26-12-2012, 18:42
Mostly figured out - awesome pics btw, thank you! No 3s-gte manual, just a Haynes guide for the aw11

Here's the few spots I'm stuck on

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/148674_10152371206355650_1354855367_n.jpg

That pipe at the top, assuming heater hose inlet/outlet?


https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/207711_10152371206790650_478920820_n.jpg

The hose that has one end hanging next to the turbo inlet. Not sure what that is.


https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/522994_10152371207270650_2890656_n.jpg

This Vacuum hose/pipe. Found a possible hose it should go to, loops under the stuff around the coolant/heater outlets

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/386746_10152371211560650_168343328_n.jpg


Aaaand last for the vac and fluids (I hope!)

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/r270/734100_10152371211075650_1471652825_n.jpg
Both the hose and the metal pipe, not sure where these guys go.



On a slightly different topic, when following Paul Woods wiring guide, I noticed that in the part describing how to wire in the power to the fuel injectors, amp, coil, etc, the small white plug should have 4 black & red wires, but mine only had two... Wired those two together for the timebeing, wondering where the other two might be? :/

Merry Christmas everyone (or whichever holiday you celebrate)!

Paul Woods
26-12-2012, 19:32
The other power feeds are for newer revisions, Rev1 only has one feed only.

adamh
26-12-2012, 21:10
first.. its unclear where this engine is, what bay is it in when the pictures are taken?. also what revision engine.


Mostly figured out - awesome pics btw, thank you! No 3s-gte manual, just a Haynes guide for the aw11

Here's the few spots I'm stuck on

http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2005/04/52.jpg

That pipe at the top, assuming heater hose inlet/outlet? (if you look at the pictures at the top of the thread it shows the connections clearly )


http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2005/04/52.jpg

The hose that has one end hanging next to the turbo inlet. Not sure what that is. (i cant see where it terminates, its just a random hose hanging in the picture) provide a pic of where it starts , that will help reveal the answer.


http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2005/04/52.jpg

This Vacuum hose/pipe. Found a possible hose it should go to, loops under the stuff around the coolant/heater outlets, what does the other end connect to?
in the picture you have connected the hard pipe from the inlet manifold to your rubber pipe.. what have you connected the other to?


http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2005/04/52.jpg


Aaaand last for the vac and fluids (I hope!)

http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2005/04/52.jpg
Both the hose and the metal pipe, not sure where these guys go.

have you connected your ISCV under the throttle body yet? i think these are the hard pipes that connect the ISCV to its hot water supply!
look at the 'water by pass pipes' in the top diagram.

the black pipe that pays across the silver could be a manifold feed for the BOV, is your BOV connected yet?



On a slightly different topic, when following Paul Woods wiring guide, I noticed that in the part describing how to wire in the power to the fuel injectors, amp, coil, etc, the small white plug should have 4 black & red wires, but mine only had two... Wired those two together for the timebeing, wondering where the other two might be? :/

Merry Christmas everyone (or whichever holiday you celebrate)!

Gothmog3vz
26-12-2012, 21:49
first.. its unclear where this engine is, what bay is it in when the pictures are taken?. also what revision engine.

It's sitting in my 89 aw11 chassis. Motor came out of a 1991 USDM SW20. Gen 2 rev1 3s-gte

Gothmog3vz
26-12-2012, 23:32
Will get a better pic of that random hose later tonight. As for the inlet manifold, in the following pic I used the black hose that passes under the spark wires as shown, may not have been very clear on that. Passes the water neck and goes under a bunch of stuff there, but it was the only hose that reached the hard pipe.

ISCV should be connected, however the car does not currently have a BOV (running a ST185 TMIC).

:) thanks again!

Gothmog3vz
03-01-2013, 23:31
Update - Car cranks, but wont start. Checked the CEL (in case), it just blinks consistently, so to my understanding, no codes. Going to check for spark/fuel in a few, taking a quick break. Reading now to see possible causes, I can only think of bad spark, fuel, or vacuum leak...

*Edit* checked, I have fuel, it's a matter of no spark (at all). Either the wiring, or one of the components is malfunctioning, but I'm going to go over my wiring first

*Second Edit* Wiring seems good, getting 10.4-10.5 volts to the coil and igniter. Looking at either bad ignitor or bad coil. Plug wires have a resistance of 5 kilo-ohms, and appear newish, same with the distributor cap (but I'll probably pick one up tomorrow just in case). Kind of scratching my head at this point, will see about getting a new coil at work tomorrow, and pray that the igniter isn't dead after the prices I saw on rockauto :o

Deadly_Smell
04-01-2013, 07:29
Have you checked all your earths are good, the ignitor will not work unless it has a good earth connection

adamh
04-01-2013, 16:39
yup sand down the fixing bracket and sand down where ever you attached them to make sure no paint , i applied an earth strap to the bracket and earthed elsewhere as well

Gothmog3vz
04-01-2013, 17:54
Sanded down the bracket and mounting point, no dice. I'm going to check amperage going to the coil/igniter now (Thanks to Mr Woods for the info)!

*edit* Cant seem to get an amperage reading, so going to see if something can be done about that tonight.

Gothmog3vz
09-01-2013, 15:45
Update: SHE'S ALIIIIIIIIVE!!!!

Ran an extra ground wire from the ignitor/coil bracket, and she fired right up. Stalled after about 10 seconds :P but she ran! :D

adamh
10-01-2013, 18:55
Update: SHE'S ALIIIIIIIIVE!!!!Ran an extra ground wire from the ignitor/coil bracket, and she fired right up. Stalled after about 10 seconds :P but she ran! :Dsweet. it sounds like its losing fuel pressure do you have cor wired correctly?. put ign to on, open afm flap see if you can hear fuel pump buzzing, should stop pumping when flap shut do test without running engine .no pump at flap open no work.

Gothmog3vz
12-01-2013, 20:56
Seems to be a glitch with the afm? It runs with the afm unplugged (super rich) but with the meter hooked in it dies :/ it'll also keep running if I blip the throttle. Not sure if Vac leak as well, will be checking that but I'm sure I got everything... Oh well, every swap has teething issues I guess

Gothmog3vz
17-01-2013, 20:54
Ok, I have 0 Vac reading at the manifold (tapped into the line going to the vacuum canister, that starts on top of the throttlebody). So that probably explains it (since keeping constant throttle also leads to stalling - revs go up, then drop). Probably a big leak somewhere, but not sure where... *facepalm*

Going to try testing, it was suggested to me to try either spraying water, or running a propane jet along the vac lines (although I'm aprehensive on the second one).

Updates to come as the situation progresses

adamh
18-01-2013, 16:14
have you done the pocvips procedure?, is your afm earthed to chasis ...

Gothmog3vz
18-01-2013, 16:32
I'm not familiar with the POCVIPS procedure (or, if I am, I don't know it by that name)... What exactly would that entail?
And I haven't touched the wiring for the AFM, so it should be grounded already to my knowledge... When you refer to grounding it, do you mean running a cable to one of the bolts attached to it? My old 3VZ and current 4A both had/have free-floating AFM's and run fine, which is why I'm asking.

In any case, like I said, car runs if I blip the throttle, and fuel pump runs when the flap is open, which is why I'm leaning towards a massive vacuum leak (on top of the initial 0 vac reading, confirmed with second gauge). Vac does spike to -20 when I blip the throttle, but almost instantly returns to 0 if throttle is constant.

it was suggested that the leak could be due to a bad gasket on the manifold... I played around with water yesterday, and changed a few lines (cam cover breather and the one going to the charcoal canister), but didn't notice any change/find any leaks.
wont have time to play around with her till tomorrow night, I'm going to mull everything over and try to think if I missed something

Edit - found details on POCVIPS, didnt try it yet, but may be worth a shot...

adamh
19-01-2013, 10:13
pocvip should be done otherwise it will stall on idle, if everything else is correct. there is an electronic way of doing it but i am not familiar with that. i ran an extra earth from my afm body to chasis, yep just a cable to m6 bolt hole etc, it cant do harm

Gothmog3vz
21-01-2013, 14:11
Ok, I found Paul's thread on POCVIPS, this is the first I've heard of doing it on a 3S but I can give it a try (or rather, my welder buddy). Will ground the AFM then (like you said, can't hurt). But this 0 vacuum on idle still worries me (From what I've read, the 3S should generate -20mm/hg of vac), and I have a feeling it's at the root of the problem

adamh
23-01-2013, 17:28
goth, completely missed that its a 3s, no you dont need do it!. sorry i must have referenced your username and got my wires crossed. idle control for 3sgte is iacv in any case so hopefully you havent taken that off and started welding it lol.-

Gothmog3vz
25-01-2013, 15:39
Yeah, I had the 3VZ/E53 Camry when I made the username and it kind of stuck haha. No sweat, havent had time for the last week or so due to school, so my IACV is still in the car and unwelded :P

Gothmog3vz
06-02-2013, 17:29
Built pressure tester, tried it last night. No luck, leak is massive, didnt get any pressure whatsoever in there. also, managed to break my TB inlet + strip the thread in one of the TB bolt holes... -_-"

Will try to take off manifold altogether this weekend (if I don't get swamped with homework/studying), and change every gasket on there, double-check everything. Will contact ATS-racing for a short TB inlet as well.

adamh
07-02-2013, 21:54
keep us updated, if you stripped the thread out, consider a helicoil. or next size up retap if material allows, but check the shc screw head clears the inlet trumpet and hose if resizing.. before you go next up

Fuzzydunlop
08-02-2013, 20:07
Before you take everything apart!!! wait!

Do the same leak test but this time take a big puff of a cigarette and blow the smoke into the intake piping. THEN build pressure with your compressor. You should be able to see where the smoke comes out, and that will be the source of your leak.

And Helicoil to fix the stripped threads.

Also, where exactly are you measuring vacuum from? Does your gauge work for certain?

adamh
09-02-2013, 23:10
have to say thats a crackin idea, bar the actual smoking of the thing. wonder if there is a smoke producing product which isnt harmful to put inside somewhere for duration of test.

Gothmog3vz
25-02-2013, 16:55
Update - I messed up with vacuum gauge placement, plugged it into the port on top of the throttle body *facepalm* read some stuff in the BGB and turns out that port doesnt experience vacuum since, well, it hooks in before the butterfly valve. Brilliant. Fixed the stripped threads though, and this weekend I'm going to reassemble the intake. going to have to figure out the stall problem from scratch, but its possible it was from a bad coupler between the modified TB inlet and intercooler. I have a new inlet from ATS and I'm going to run a test setup without intercooler (pipe from turbo to inlet directly) just to verify this, probably this coming weekend (midterms this week). also have to look into a different intercooler setup, the TMIC is ok for a temporary solution but heatsoak will be awful on it.

adamh
25-02-2013, 19:18
good luck on the mid terms. Heatsoak in the mk1 bay is almost normal, heres a shot of an early 1.5 with a good no bull solution to venting the bay..

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2013/02/256.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/albums/mm134/hutchisonphotos/emco/mr2/?action=view&current=DSC00025copy_zps5fb38cda.jpg)

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2013/02/257.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/albums/mm134/hutchisonphotos/emco/mr2/?action=view&current=DSC00030copy_zps7131ef2e.jpg)

its also manageable to route both pipes to the right and through the rear bulkhead.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2013/02/258.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/albums/mm134/hutchisonphotos/emco/mr2/?action=view&current=DSC00009copy_zps33a8162d.jpg)

Gothmog3vz
04-03-2013, 14:51
Hmm, none of my piping I had was able to fit, and my TMIC doesnt fit with the ATS inlet (I'm hesitant to cut it since it was a fairly expensive piece of pipe). Debating to go roof-mount (I love the look, reminds me of a group B RS200), but at the same time, that would be fairly complex (cutting wouldn't be an issue there since I have spare panels courtesy of my beater MR2), and I'm not keen to cut into my trunk for the trunk-mount since I DO want to be able to take this car for weekend trips :P trunk is handy there

Does anyone have experience running one of these SMICs with the 5s-relocated alternator?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/90-95-TOYOTA-MR2-SW20-ALUMINUM-FRONT-MOUNT-INTERCOOLER-16-X8-X4-/130823493898?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e75b0190a&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1#ht_3313wt_1397

Thinking maybe something similar to this
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/08/204.jpg

*edit* figured out a homebrew solution, my friend's going to re-weld the inlet/outlet on stock SMIC to I can mount it horizontally in the SC location. Once that's up, I can double check the stall issue (think I fixed it but not 100%), and think about installing some sort of muffler :P

adamh
06-03-2013, 21:52
i would make some mouldings down the rear pillars rather than big tubes poking about, probably one of the better places for cooling although

Gothmog3vz
09-03-2013, 19:25
update - still refuses to start. tried unplugging afm again, now that doesnt work either. I'm really stumped by this. Tried jumping fp and b+, no dice. :(

video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HiHK3Bl80Lg&feature=youtu.be

Gothmog3vz
09-03-2013, 22:46
Found it! Messed up COR, wired for rev 2 instead of rev1. SHE LIVES AND DRIVES!!!!!

snowtigger
09-03-2013, 22:55
Well vid then ?

Gothmog3vz
10-03-2013, 00:02
Didn't take vid because my dad came along, and that would be irresponsible haha. Will take one tomorrow. In the meantime, pic from gas station!

https://fbcdn-photos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/484341_10152636154400650_1641239348_n.jpg

adamh
10-03-2013, 12:58
well done sir, what are those wheels? do you have standard brakes. lovely looking t-top

Gothmog3vz
10-03-2013, 18:13
Wheels are the OEM Sawblades, installing cross-drilled rotors and hawk pads today (with my E30 BBS rims), pics will be coming! And thanks, she's in great shape! :) I'll have her fully streetable once I install a muffler and clean up the shifter a bit, need to extend the side-to-side linkage (doesn't go into first). It felt great to actually drive her regardless, very peppy, and I didn't even hit boost (maybe 1 or two psi haha)!!

How she sits now
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/270637_10152640113160650_804297266_n.jpg

Gothmog3vz
11-03-2013, 22:34
Videos!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=lF4QOMPbZis

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jy51yi5difw