Nick's 2GR-FE Trackday Weapon Swap!

[Monkeyra]

Firstly, thanks to Mr Woods for arranging and looking after the engine upon delivery, and then a massive thanks to cdwood2010 who then had the engine delivered to his place (Along with his 2GR-FE) and looked after it until yesterday upon where I hired a van, popped up to collect the engine, and Chris helped me unload it my end! One huge favour I now owe :)

So, I've finally got the beast into my garage :eusa_clap:

2234

Next step, buy an engine crane and sort my garage out so I've some working space!

[cdwood2010]

My absolute pleasure sir! Glad that engine finally reached its destination, it's covered quite a few miles since it came out of the Sienna!

Having seen your garage I think you've got quite a challenge ahead, don't forget at some point you're going to be sitting on an engine and gearbox plus the 2Gr so it's going to be a squeeze.

If you can use that beam overhead then a block and tackle is going to save you a lot of room, you could probably pick up the whole rear end and get it to a working height.

Your real fun bits will be getting the 2.0 dropped out and manhandled away from the car, and of course getting the 2GR and box back into place.

Give me (or someone) a shout as those are deffo 2 man jobs. I've done them on my own in the past and although it's doable, you need to be in two places at once when lowering / raising an engine.

The other thought I had was that you could put some fix points on the side walks of your garage and then sit the car on a beam / bar so it wouldn't need to go on ramps or stands. I've seen that done before, and it means you can use notches to set the height you want the car at.

Any plop, keep us all updated and lets see some more pics of that car! Those wheels had me scratching my chin!

:)

Chris.

[Monkeyra]

My rev1 tubby clip, what's the general consensus, worth more as a whole or broken for parts?

[snowtigger]

Broken probably for bits, shame if its a good shell as finding turbo mk2 shell unrusty I bet in the future are going to be harder and harder.

[cdwood2010]

My rev1 tubby clip, what's the general consensus, worth more as a whole or broken for parts?

Deffo parts. You can sell bits at stupid prices.

Engine (bare) will probably fetch £150-£200.

Is this your car? A clip is normally The engine and car chopped off! eeeek!

C.

[Monkeyra]

It's just the engine I'm selling, just wondering how much to strip off it before I remove it from the car.

[Monkeyra]

Is it? I thought a clip was the engine :rofl:

[snowtigger]

The engine block about £150 head about the same turbo any were from £30 to over £100 for a good hybrid.

[cdwood2010]

It's just the engine I'm selling, just wondering how much to strip off it before I remove it from the car.

If you plan on trying to lift it out of the top (that will be snug!) then strip the ancillaries off both sides. Alternator, aircon (if fitted) manifolds etc.

I would strip the engine down to bare, anything that isn't sump, block or head you can remove. The wiring loom is worth a few quid, because if someone fits that engine to their tubby they will need their original loom and ancillaries etc usually.

The turbo plumbing / intercooler parts / turbo etc all fetch a few pounds, and as tiggs says, depending on what bits are some of them are quite sought after.

Have a rummage on eBay and of course feel free to consult on here.

C.

[cdwood2010]

Oh and this is a clip!

http://www.chicoraceworks.com/redclip2.jpg

[Monkeyra]

Been reading on MR2OC.com, they seem to recommend replacing the waterpump (it can leak) and resealing the front timing cover... any thoughts?

[cdwood2010]

On a 2gr? Interesting.

Water pumps don't stand well once used. Second hand ones never seem to last 2 minutes, I assume because they start to rot once they have stood a but.

I've not heard of anyone swapping one out, but wtf do I know?!

See what the smart money on here says.

C.

[Monkeyra]

That's why I thought I'd have a browse on some of the yank boards, they've done a lot more swaps on the whole than us Brits.

[Paul Woods]

Really? :icon_biggrin:

I honestly think i've more under my belt now than the combined USA total.

[Petergee541]

Really? :icon_biggrin:

I honestly think i've more under my belt now than the combined USA total.

Do you replace water pumps on your 2GR swaps?

[Monkeyra]

Really? :icon_biggrin:

I honestly think i've more under my belt now than the combined USA total.

I guess most are publicity shy then? :photos:

[Paul Woods]

There aren't that many in the US, not as many as you'd think anyway. No i've never had to replace a 2gr water pump yet, they've all been in perfect condition up to now.

[Petergee541]

There aren't that many in the US, not as many as you'd think anyway. No i've never had to replace a 2gr water pump yet, they've all been in perfect condition up to now.

And only two in Australia to my knowledge with a third (mine) underway

[Monkeyra]

Been doing some digging today, there are some TSB's out there which apply to the 2GR-FE. I'm currently trawling and trying to find them all (doesn't seem to be a Toyota database anywhere?), but the first one I've found which I've seen mentioned on various Toyota forums around the world is this one, a hose which can degrade and cause an oil leak with engine failure (I've uploaded it to my ToyotaWiki.org site, and I'll do the same for all the TSB's I find):

http://www.toyotawiki.org/index.php?title=TSB%27s_%28for_all_2GR-FE_engines%29

[headcase]

Been doing some digging today, there are some TSB's out there which apply to the 2GR-FE. I'm currently trawling and trying to find them all (doesn't seem to be a Toyota database anywhere?), but the first one I've found which I've seen mentioned on various Toyota forums around the world is this one, a hose which can degrade and cause an oil leak with engine failure (I've uploaded it to my ToyotaWiki.org site, and I'll do the same for all the TSB's I find):

http://www.toyotawiki.org/index.php?title=TSB%27s_%28for_all_2GR-FE_engines%29

Yea i done my pipe on my one .
Patrick

[snowtigger]

I thought most would have been recalled for that pipe or had it done by now?

I don't know if any of ours out of the first group have been checked for this (knowing Paul and Marc they both probably checked and fixed it or didn't need to)

[Monkeyra]

Gearbox, best to remove this with the engine, or separately? I've stripped most of the guff off my engine now, just need to remove the turbo and exhaust, and then it's ready to remove the whole shebang from the engine bay!

[headcase]

Gearbox, best to remove this with the engine, or separately? I've stripped most of the guff off my engine now, just need to remove the turbo and exhaust, and then it's ready to remove the whole shebang from the engine bay!


Drop them both out together. .

[cdwood2010]

Ideally best to get them both out in one lump.

Are you still planning on taking the engine out the top?

C.

[Monkeyra]

Haven't decided yet. I suspect it'll have to out the top, I can't see there being enough room for an engine trolley to move around, I think the legs of the crane will get in the way.

[snowtigger]

I lifted the back end up when the engine box was on the floor, with the engine crane and some old seat belts even better if you put the front on car ramps it gives you extra hight just be careful of it going forwards and off the ramps I put concrete bags on them and ratchet strapped the wheel to one just incase.

Just an idea.

[driftingsw21]

On the mk2 I've dropped the entire rear end as one solid unit, engine trans, wheels, rear cross and all. It's much easier that way as you don't have to worry about a dolly and junk.

[cdwood2010]

Haven't decided yet. I suspect it'll have to out the top, I can't see there being enough room for an engine trolley to move around, I think the legs of the crane will get in the way.

Can you use that beam?

Also have a look at adding a bar with pegs on each wall, that will mean you can support the car without anything being in the way.

C.

[Gouky]

the water pump replacement is because they initially had a manufacturing tolerance issue. when you take the belt off, spin the pulley. if you hear/feel grinding, replace the pump. otherwise you're good to go.

and don't forget the rear bank's vvti hose. use the all metal replacement.

[Monkeyra]

and don't forget the rear bank's vvti hose. use the all metal replacement.

Cheers, already taken a look at mine, I've still got rubber, so will be fixing that.

Chris - that oil patch we saw on your engine, there is a known issue of oil leaking from timing covers, I wonder if that was what we saw?

[cdwood2010]

Chris - that oil patch we saw on your engine, there is a known issue of oil leaking from timing covers, I wonder if that was what we saw?

Hi,

Maybe!

I had a clean up (with baby wipes) and there is nothing there at all. It almost looks like someone did an oily sneeze on the engine!

Will post up some pics when I get swinging.

Chris.

[Monkeyra]

If you want some more cheapy baby wipes, Waitrose have an offer on at the moment, 3 large packs for £3! Normally £2.55 each so a veritable bargain!

[cdwood2010]

If you want some more cheapy baby wipes, Waitrose have an offer on at the moment, 3 large packs for £3! Normally £2.55 each so a veritable bargain!

Missus picked up 3 packs for £3 yesterday at sains!

C.

[racerADS]

Missus picked up 3 packs for £3 yesterday at sains!

C.

4 for £3 in Morrisons. Mim is so pleased this baby wipe phenomenon is catching on ;-)

[cdwood2010]

4 for £3 in Morrisons. Mim is so pleased this baby wipe phenomenon is catching on ;-)

Yes, not only are all the bits in my garage lovely and clean, but my bottom is also!

:)

[Monkeyra]

Just thinking ahead for my to do list, I'm sure I'm missing stuff here, but this is what's currently in my head (and needed downloading into this topic):

1) Remove old engine (nearly ready to lift out now)
2) Service new engine, and tend to any TSB's (rubber oil pipe, water pump etc)
3) Adapt driveshaft so it fits
4) Detail engine and clean engine bay if I can be arsed
5) Fit manifolds and goukys mounting kit
6) Fit engine into engine bay
7) Wire up
8) Make new exhaust up.
The end.

Is that it, or have I forgotten some crucial steps?

[cdwood2010]

Might want to factor in a flywheel and clutch.

Or go Fred Flintstone.....

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/07/324.jpg

;)

[Lee]

1) Remove old engine (nearly ready to lift out now)
2) Service new engine, and tend to any TSB's (rubber oil pipe, water pump etc)
3) Detail engine and clean engine bay if I can be arsed
4) If aircon is removed source correct length belt and fit
5) Fit manifolds and goukys mounting kit
6) Grind required places on 2GR for clearence when fitting the gearbox
7) Helicoil required hole for extra engine to gearbox bolt
8) Mate up engine and gearbox after fitting clutch and flywheel
9) Adapt driveshaft to fit
10) Identify all unused plugs and label
11) Fit engine and gearbox without the loom
12) Plumb fuel system and FPR
13) Plumb coolant and heater lines
14) Strip identified unused plugs and wires from loom (makes life a lot easier and removes a lot of un needed clutter)
15) Depending on loom you have cut hole in engine-boot bulkhead to run loom through
16) Sort throttle pedal bracket and run wires through to the boot
17) Fit loom incorporating DBW throttle wires and begin to wire up
18) Extend lambda wires to where approx required
19) Wire in OBD2 plug
20) Sort vacuum connection for brakes
21) Make new exhaust up.

[Monkeyra]

Top man, thanks Lee :)

[Monkeyra]

The missus has taken delivery of my install kit! Will be checking out all my goodies this evening :-) Engine crane has also been ordered! The missus and my daughter are going away visiting her family for two weeks from Sunday, so I'll have a shedload of time to spend on this, should hopefully get the bulk of the mechanical stuff sorted out over the next three weeks :-)

[headcase]

Are you putting it in through top or bottom if top it wont go down with the headers and alternator fitted .

Patrick

[Monkeyra]

Probably bottom tbh. I've got a 2-tonne engine crane on the way so that will comfortably lift the car up in the air.

[Monkeyra]

Finally figured out how to get the driveshafts off today :rozzer:

Means I'll hopefully have the engine out this week!

[Monkeyra]

The eagle has landed! :rozzer:

Bit of a faff, kept getting wedged on the way down. But I've finally removed my first ever engine!

Just need to jack the car higher now....

[Monkeyra]

Could someone please clarify something for me?

Do I need to swap out my tubby fuel pump? If so, is it one of the Walbro 255/lh jobbies I need to get?

Thanks!

[Monkeyra]

Hmmm, run into a potential problem?

I thought (rightly or wrongly) we had to reuse the driveshaft support bracket from our tubby engine. Only thing is, mine doesn't fit!

http://talkford.com/uploads/gallery/album_19/gallery_3_19_184600.jpg

http://talkford.com/uploads/gallery/album_19/gallery_3_19_184600.jpg

It won't bolt to either of them. Thoughts?

[headcase]

Hmmm, run into a potential problem?

I thought (rightly or wrongly) we had to reuse the driveshaft support bracket from our tubby engine. Only thing is, mine doesn't fit!

http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2005/04/52.jpg

http://talkford.com/uploads/gallery/album_19/gallery_3_19_184600.jpg

It won't bolt to either of them. Thoughts?
no i used the seinna driveshaft bracket . you will have to mod the tubby one
patrick

[Monkeyra]

Bollocks, now I'm fucked. Not a bloody clue who, what or how to get over this! I assume your engine came with the bracket then?

[cdwood2010]

Need to check because I was planning on doing the same thing!?

I've got a tubby box with the shafts and support bracket.

C.

[Monkeyra]

Lol, was gonna send you a PM about this Chris, we're likely both in the same boat, unless you've got a bracket already attached.

My first thought is USA Ebay! Or maybe Gouky if he's got any kicking about? (You never know!)

[cdwood2010]

Nah, we can probably get the tubby one machined to bolt on somewhere.

Hoping to get the Cammy done and out in the next few days, will be starting the 2GR then.

I need to check that my gearbox is LSD, I'm worried it isn't. After that I will bolt up the engine to the box an have a look at the shaft situation.

Like I said, don't struggle or fret, I or someone can always pop down and help out.

It's always darkest just before dawn.

:)

[Monkeyra]

Went to Toyota today and ordered a couple of parts:

Replacement VVti oil pipe (metal-rubber-metal to all metal). - Part number 15772-31030 - £19.89 (+vat)
Gasket for pipe x 2 - Part number 90430-16012 - £1.09 (+vat) each
Gasket for pipe x 1 - Part number 90430-16016 - £1.04 (+vat) each

Oil filter - 04152-31090 - £9.27 (+vat)

[Monkeyra]

And ordered two gearbox seals to replace my old ones, Fensport, £40 (ish). also my new aux drive belt arrived today, bought from Camskill, about £14. (6PK1462 is the product code).

[Monkeyra]

Oh, and Walbro 255 pump ordered today! Temple tuning for £74.95 delivered (off ebay, their shop on there is £5 cheaper than on their website).

[cdwood2010]

Nice updates.

But where's the pictures???

;)

[Monkeyra]

Photos of my email receipts? Lol

[Monkeyra]

Some goodies arrived today!

http://talkford.com/uploads/gallery/album_668/gallery_3_668_3610051.jpg

Pump, belt and gearbox seals.


Now, onto my clutch. It's a RPS one from my MR2. I've no idea what version though?

Also, does it look worn? Again, I've no idea as never handled or changed a clutch before tbh.

http://talkford.com/uploads/gallery/album_668/gallery_3_668_2334727.jpg

http://talkford.com/uploads/gallery/album_668/gallery_3_668_1500079.jpg

http://talkford.com/uploads/gallery/album_668/gallery_3_668_3319039.jpg

http://talkford.com/uploads/gallery/album_668/gallery_3_668_974743.jpg


Thoughts / advice?

[cdwood2010]

Hi mate, I'm assuming that's your turbo clutch, any idea what BHP / torque your car was putting out?

Fitting a used clutch is always a bit of a gamble, but if you know it was sound and will hold the power then it's a pretty safe bet.

The clutch plate looks ok, ideally you're going by the meat left above the brass rivets either side.

Also give it all a blast of air and check for any physical damage.

Might be worth checking the thrust bairing too - a good one should be silky smooth and silent.

C.

[Monkeyra]

Engine was was pretty standard, just the boost raised a little. 250bhp on the rolling road a few years back. Never had any issues with it, but not sure what it can take power wise. Can't find the original receipt either which is annoying.

Thrust bearing, how do I check that?

[cdwood2010]

If you don't know the limitations in the clutch, I wouldn't risk it.

It probably has a resale value that will offset one that will work with the 2gr.

Thrust bearing you can feel - turn / spin the bearing in your hands, if it feels gritty it's on it's way out.

Silky smooth = very good.

Then again, if you change the whole clutch kit, it's a moot point!

:)

[Monkeyra]

I think that'll be the best option tbh, new clutch. I can then sell my rps clutch and fidanza flywheel, like you say, will recover some cost.

[cdwood2010]

Yeah, seems a bit mad to spend £4k on an engine and stick a 2nd hand clutch in (that's just my opinion).

And that's coming from someone who will always choose reuse over buying new!

Check with Headbandage - I think he found a suitable clutch at a not bad price. Actually I need one of those too!

Oh, and an FPR.

:)

[snowtigger]

I bought a second hand rps max puck clutch was rated over 400bhp+ and has been better than an act one as you need leg muscles like a champion race horse to move.

I've been up the pod loads and really tried hammering it and it's been fine .

[Monkeyra]

One for Patrick maybe? (we've identical Sienna engines). I bought the same belt as him, can someone explain what I'm doing wrong?

http://talkford.com/uploads/gallery/album_668/gallery_3_668_527609.jpg

I've removed the aircon pump, that is all.

[Paul Woods]

You have too many pulleys, you need to remove the left hand ones, also noticed you bought a 6 rib belt, the 2gr uses 7 rib although 6 should be ok.

The belt then runs from left of crank to tensioner to top pulley to idler to alt and back to crank

[headcase]

Lose the power steering pump and one idler look at my pic
Patrick

[racerADS]

Doesn't it need to go under the crank pulley?

[headcase]

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/07/312.jpg
There we go

[Monkeyra]

Aha, so that's the power steering pump on the far left!

Thanks guys, that makes much more sense now. I had a feeling it'd be that thing on the left (I didn't know what it did though).

Is there a knack to getting these belts on, or do I just get it on best I can and then turn the pulleys by hand to get them to slip into place (oo-er).

[headcase]

No spanner on auto tensioner pully pull back and hold on to it dont let go or that spanner will fly out the workshop as fast as a 2gr ,then slip belt on into place
Patrick

[Monkeyra]

Cheers Patrick :)

I don't suppose you've got a photo of the other end of your engine have you? The engine brackets was the other thing I've been pondering on tonight!

[headcase]

Cheers Patrick :)

I don't suppose you've got a photo of the other end of your engine have you? The engine brackets was the other thing I've been pondering on tonight!

http://s961.photobucket.com/albums/ae93/Patrick_Chambers/mr2 project spider 2gr
Have a look through them .

Patrick

[Monkeyra]

Cheers squire!

[Monkeyra]

Just tried that link, doesn't seem to work for me. Keeps taking me to this page:

http://photobucket.com/findstuff/?httpstatus=404

[cdwood2010]

http://m961.photobucket.com/albums/Patrick_Chambers/mr2%20project%20spider%202gr/?sa=true

[Monkeyra]

Cheers!

[Monkeyra]

More goodies arrived today. Replacement oil pipe, oil filter and driveshaft bracket. Just waiting on clutch and flywheel and can then think about fitting it all back together!

[Monkeyra]

Making steady progress, fuel tank is out, pump swap nearly done. Currently removing the unused aircon and heater pipes from the centre tunnel, which is beginning to corrode as per hose from hell. More worringly though, badly rusted fuel pipe!! Only a matter of time before that sprung a leak with catastrophic consequences... anyone else seen this before?

http://talkford.com/uploads/gallery/album_19/gallery_3_19_23118.jpg


Tank out:

http://talkford.com/uploads/gallery/album_19/gallery_3_19_181136.jpg


Corroded heater pipe:

http://talkford.com/uploads/gallery/album_19/gallery_3_19_255544.jpg


Walbro 255l fuel pump wiring, does this look right? I've used some of those connector blocks that clamp through the wire. Bit confused as to what the earth wire does, it's in contact with the live? (ie, sloshing around in fuel). How does that work? How have others wired up their Walbro?

http://talkford.com/uploads/gallery/album_19/gallery_3_19_165690.jpg


Clutch is due Friday (Thanks Patrick!) and flywheel is on it's way from MWR, due here next week!

[Goldy]

I would suggest using proper crimp connectors with a proper crimp tool or soldering and applying heatshrink to the fuel pump leads. Those plastic push connectors are OK for temporary connections but not for long term in a fuel tank.

[Monkeyra]

Good point, the petrol will likely eat the plastic.

[cdwood2010]

Good point, the petrol will likely eat the plastic.

It still freaks me out to see a live circuit immersed in fuel. Yikes!

Deffo solder and shrink wrap, or replace it with the proper wire of you can?

C.


My Mercedes handles like a pissed fat bird in high heels. On ice. In the dark. On a windy night....

[Monkeyra]

Ordered some shrink wrap last night, so hopefully will arrive tomorrow.

[cdwood2010]

You will need plenty of that for when you get to wiring the engine in!

Also get a decent soldering iron (I use one of those mini blow torches, Pat prefers a gas soldering iron) plenty of solder and some flux paste.

C.

[headcase]

You will need plenty of that for when you get to wiring the engine in!

Also get a decent soldering iron (I use one of those mini blow torches, Pat prefers a gas soldering iron) plenty of solder and some flux paste.

C.

Thats what i use the mini blow torch so much easier then a soldering iron . Soldering irons for circuit boards . Get some flux core solder .
Patrick

[Monkeyra]

I've got a dremel gas iron, bloody unreliable though, can never get the bastard going. Think I need to buy a new one. I've also got an electric, but PITA with the lead!

[Monkeyra]

Chris - your clutch is here btw, thanks to Patrick! Flywheel should be here on Monday.

[headcase]

I've got a dremel gas iron, bloody unreliable though, can never get the bastard going. Think I need to buy a new one. I've also got an electric, but PITA with the lead!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-Gas-Blow-Torch-Piezo-Ignition-Butane-1300-C-2400-F-/250867833181?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item3a68e3595d

I found these are good
Patrick

[cdwood2010]

Yeah, worth getting one.

Wired soldering iron just will not get hot enough.

The gas irons are ok, but I've now put together a soldering kit in my garage - mini blow torch makes easy work of it.

Oh, and buy some helping hands too!

:)

[Peebs]

Wired soldering iron just will not get hot enough.

...that depends on your soldering iron wattage.

25W or less are pretty crappy for our needs. Use a 40W for general car wiring and a 100W for heavier ones. (or heat up a lump of copper with a blow torch and use that to solder with), but don't use a naked flame type soldering torch directly to electrics, those are for plumbers/brazing/glass work/jewelers.


and yeah some
Helping Hands
2292
are invaluable



but cancel that order of
Shrink Wrap
2290



and order some
Heat Shrink
2297
Instead



although, you might find a use for the blow torch as a
Heat Gun
2291
after all. (Is this brutal or what?) lol



You might also like to get a
De-soldering Pump
2294



and a
Soldering Stand
2293
to stow your electric iron in and keep your the solder tip clean with the (wet) sponge :)

[Monkeyra]

all sorted! Soldered the wires up, shrinked it in the that shrinking stuff, and refitted it all. Just need to replace my rusty fuel pipe, and then that's the tank side of things fixed.

Now, FPR's. I know diddly-squat about them, but I understand we need to fit one? Any recommendations?

[Gouky]

i recommend this one: http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-page/regulators/efi-regulators/13109-a1000-6-injected-bypass-regulator/

set it to 43.5psi and call it a day. no vacuum reference.

it's not the cheapest available but many of the cheap ones are sticky and end up at a different pressure every time.

[Monkeyra]

Yowzers, £200. That may have to wait until next month now!

[Gouky]

Yowzers, £200. That may have to wait until next month now!

surely there's a uk maker/supplier of something similar. that regulator runs $140 for me here. at the current exchange rate that should be under £88

[headcase]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-FPR-FUEL-PRESSURE-REGULATOR-KIT-INCLUDES-FUEL-RAIL-ADAPTER-GAUGE-HOSE-/400326176231?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5d354cade7

Here we go

Patrick

[Gouky]

i'm concerned that those may be cheap knockoffs. those fittings are supposed to be $15 each at the cheapest. plus a cheap $20 guage, that rail adapter and the regulator $140

effectively it's 60% off which falls under the "too good to be true" category.

[Monkeyra]

Looks like I could get one shipped from the states for around 130 quid.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aeromotive-13109-A1000-6-Injected-Bypass-Regulator-/360437290975?pt=Other_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item53ebbc97df

Only one on ebay uk for sale is this one:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aeromotive-13109-A1000-6-Fuel-Injected-Bypass-Regulator-/280922890713?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item41684f21d9

Will google some uk tuning suppliers, see what comes up.

[Gouky]

if a few of you guys can get together so we can save on shipping, i'd be happy to send you guys a bunch. the problem is shipping, i don't trust the postal service to not lose packages. so shipping would be about $150. but for that price i could send a dozen.

here's the breakdown of price each versus quantity

1) £182 each
2) £135 each
3) £120 each
4) £112 each

but they'd all have to be shipped to the same address.

anyways, just give me a heads up if you guys are interested.

[Monkeyra]

Unless Chris has other plans, he may well be up for one of these, so that'd be 2 for starters. I wonder what Paul uses on his conversions?

[Gouky]

Unless Chris has other plans, he may well be up for one of these, so that'd be 2 for starters. I wonder what Paul uses on his conversions?

I know i've sent him a couple of these regulators, but not nearly as many as he's done swaps so he's either got a different supplier or he's using a different part.

[Monkeyra]

Another question for those who have fitted a fidanza flywheel to the 2gr-fe. I've just gone to start bolting mine up, and then realised I don't have the torque settings... Google isn't proving much use at the moment, I guess it must be hidden inside a manual somewhere? Got lots of electrical manuals but no mechanical ones!

[snowtigger]

Fidanza flywheel + mk3 flywheel bolts = torque= very very tight.

Must be the same as a turbo flywheel?

[Monkeyra]

Grinded off all the bits on the engine today to get the gearbox to fit.

Question - I've never changed a clutch before. Is there an alignment tool of some sort to ensure the clutch sits in the correct position between the pressure plate and the flywheel?

[snowtigger]

Yes it's a rod with different bushes to fit into the crank to centralise the clutch, normaly you fit it to the clutch plates lot it into the crank fit the pressure plate, eyeball it's ok tighten up the bolts remove the tool then slide your box onto the engine.

[Monkeyra]

I see. Do Halfords sell this tool?

[Gouky]

since the E153 is an unpiloted transmission I've had no problems just eyeballing it to get it in. but the spline hasn't changed since all the other fwd v6 Toyota so just go hunting for an early 90's Camry v6 alignment tool if you really want one.

[headcase]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LASER-CLUTCH-ALIGN-TOOL-/300584552070?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item45fc3c4686

Here we go

[cdwood2010]

That's cheating.

I use a baguette.

;)

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_9qIas131rFY/SjBNG2b4XEI/AAAAAAAAAmo/GqrtlkkiNas/s400/Picture+30543a_edited-1.jpg

[headcase]

Make sure you put that centre plate in the right way
Patrick

[Gouky]

That's cheating.

I use a baguette.

;)

isn't that too expensive? or we're talking 2 day old baguette?

[cdwood2010]

Weapons grade bakers throw out.

Handy as a clobberbonker too.

:)

[Monkeyra]

I'm happy to eye it in, if that's all that's required? (No idea what piloted means!)

Patrick - center plate?

[headcase]

I'm happy to eye it in, if that's all that's required? (No idea what piloted means!)

Patrick - center plate?

Piloted means the input shaft of the gearbox fits into a bearing on the crank

Yes the centre plate goes in one way or your clutch will not work correctly or not at all the raised side of the centre plate normally goes to the pressure plate

Patrick

[Gouky]

piloted means there's a little shiny nub on the end of the transmission input shaft for a bearing to ride on.

like here: http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/10/84.jpg

[snowtigger]

Pressure plate= outer , clutch plate = centre of the sandwich.

I used to eyeball them in but I've done 100s , and for about £15 you will have it for ever.

And baguette you French ponce use a bread stick or a Vienna roll.

[Monkeyra]

I wish we had some "like" buttons. Thanks chaps!

I was hoping to mount put all this together tomorrow. If I eye it so it's central, but it turns out I'm slightly off centre, what could happen?

[headcase]

I wish we had some "like" buttons. Thanks chaps!

I was hoping to mount put all this together tomorrow. If I eye it so it's central, but it turns out I'm slightly off centre, what could happen?

you will not get the gearbox to mate up and u will be shouting a phew f%$ks at everyone. lol .because its heavy old box .

patrick

[snowtigger]

You're not kidding its bloody heavy I nearly pulled a muscle in my groin trying to pick one up.

[adamh]

eazy just to turn one from stock, splines not really required just make a good diametrical fit on the spline root dia, + pilot on end.

[Monkeyra]

I think I'll give it a go without buying one. I'll be using my engine crane to lift the gearbox anyway! I'm not doing my back in lifting that bloody thing!

[Paul Woods]

Use a micrometer depth gauge and measure from 3 points on the edge of the friction plate to the edge of the flywheel, then nudge the disc a little to get it perfect, nip bolts up, done.

I find the clutch alignment tools still allow a 1-2mm discrepancy, which can make putting the gearbox on tricky, it'll still go in ok but you could have a slight dowel misalignment, whereas the mic gets it spot on and the box will go straight on the dowels.

[cdwood2010]

Also to save giving yourself a hernia trying to hump the box on, just make / get another trolley and wheel them together like so.....

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/05/163.jpg

[Monkeyra]

Good idea, I do have two trolleys, one had the turbo engine on.

[Monkeyra]

Question - Is it worth moving the fusebox from the engine bay into the boot? Any particular benefits?

[Paul Woods]

No, bad things will happen.

There is no point.

[Monkeyra]

Thankyou!

[cdwood2010]

No, bad things will happen. There is no point.

We tried this (eventually with success) on Johns swap, and aside from giving you a bit more room in the engine bay and 'hiding' the fuse box in the boot there's no real advantage.

Personally though, I'm planning on moving mine into the boot, simply because I like the neatness.

I made a mistake with johns fuse box move and it took me a couple of weeks and a second set of eyes to spot it.

It's a pain to do if you get it wrong.

C.

[Monkeyra]

Update time, it's been a while!

Gearbox is all on. Been working in the engine bay really, tidying up wires, putting all the fuel lines back together after dropping the tank. Sorted out my rear roll cage mounts in the firewall (couldn't get access before), and prepping the 2GR-FE with all it's bits and bobs. Run into an issue with the drivers side engine mount though, it clashes with the pulley wheel, as you can see in the attached photo:

http://talkford.com/uploads/gallery/album_19/gallery_3_19_420990.jpg

Anyone else had this issue?


On another note, I had to splice out part of my fuel line, as it was heavily corroded (can't seem to find a replacement either). I've used proper fuel hose, with some braid for protection. I'm assuming this will ok, unless anyone else says different from experience?

It's smack bang in the middle of this photo:

http://talkford.com/uploads/gallery/album_19/gallery_3_19_852892.jpg

[Gouky]

Yeah everyone has to clearance the mount a bit. Grind until it clears with the mount in the furthest back position and it'll have good clearance in its installed position

[Monkeyra]

Ok, cool, cheers, will get my engine mount grinded!

[Gouky]

Ok, cool, cheers, will get my engine mount grinded!

yup. it was a decision i had to make early on. i could have mounted the engine slightly crooked in the chassis or require a touch of grinding. i went back and forth a bunch on this but decided i'd rather a bit of grinding and have the engine aligned properly. that way if anyone is running polyurethane mounts, it would still bolt in.

[cdwood2010]

Fuel line will be ok as long as its secure. You might want to shield it from heat unless it sits behind the tin plate.

C.

[Monkeyra]

Fuel line will be ok as long as its secure. You might want to shield it from heat unless it sits behind the tin plate.

C.

Yep, have refitted the tin shield. Isn't rubbing on anything either, made sure of that! Just got gearbox seal to fit, grind the engine mount down and in it goes I hope

[Monkeyra]

Started trying to grind down my engine mount today with a grinding bit and a drill. Bugger me that'll take hours. Off to B&Q tomorrow to buy a cheap grinder!

Anyway, some goodies have arrived, thought you might like to see :-)

Chico RaceWorks CV cages, and an SX Performance (http://www.sx-performance.com/) FPR, both sourced from Tim@TBDev.

http://talkford.com/uploads/gallery/album_19/gallery_3_19_827936.jpg

And some plastic4performance polycarbonate windows which will complement my fibreglass doors rather lovely! (before some smart alec pipes up, the other one is still in the box)

http://talkford.com/uploads/gallery/album_19/gallery_3_19_476682.jpg

[jasongtr]

do you have a cage/door bars with the fibreglass doors?

[Monkeyra]

Yep. I've got Rogue's cage fitted, and have fibreglass doors awaiting fitment.

[jasongtr]

so is it a pure track car or built for the road too

[Monkeyra]

Pure track car. It's not very pleasant on the road. I'd make it 100 per cent track if I had space for a trailer! Save me money on mot tax and insurance then.

[jasongtr]

what makes it unpleasant, hard suspension or other things

[Monkeyra]

Mainly the ride. It's fine on track but UK roads are too shitty! That and no creature comforts.

[jasongtr]

i know what you mean about the bloody roads

[snowtigger]

Fit ohlins dfv no need for harsh spring and a lovely normal ride, well I hope so.

[jasongtr]

i had tein superstreets and i thought they were ok, might get some monoflex for the 2gr

[snowtigger]

Don't use teins there to hard.

[jasongtr]

i didnt find the superstreets too bad to be honest, i broke a mk2 with cusco coilovers and to be honest you could of swapped them out for scaffold tubes welded in their place and not noticed the difference

[dgh938peg]

When you get through this set of coilies i would HIGHLY recommend the HSD HR Monotube coil over kit. 32 damper settings, 10/8kg spring rates, 4 clicks from softest the ride is sublime; better than stock even. I have these on my V6 and on the soon to be V8 - they really are that good i bought 2 sets. :D I have them with a fully polybushed chassis and stock ARB's. the one chance i got to do a couple of laps of Lydden Hill i cranked them up to 3 from hard and ... OOOOOSH does she handle well.

I'd be more than happy to show you sometime if you like :)

[jasongtr]

sounds good, interesting you are on std anti roll bars, when i had my rev3 turbo suspension set up ad corner weighted to motorsport company that did it advised me to keep the std arb's unless going for a purely track/race car, yet i still see loads of people insisting that uprated arb's are the best thing since sliced bread.

the HSD HR coilovers sound good, how much are they and where are you incase id like to come and see them?

[Monkeyra]

Need a bit of advice!

This is how my engine mount fit's within Gouky's bracket:

http://talkford.com/uploads/gallery/album_19/gallery_3_19_883259.jpg

Is this what has happened to other people?

What did you do, just pack it out with some large washers?


The image is actually upside down by the way!

[cdwood2010]

Yeah, you've got your snail mount the wrong was around.....

[Gouky]

there is some variance in the height of the mounts. but the upper mount is slightly slotted to make up for it. if you loosen the bolts holding the upper mount to the block it should come down in contact. if it does not please don't pack it with washers, you either have an isolator that's further out of spec than i've ever seen or you have a defective engine mount. but i suspect you're just at the wrong end of the slots on the upper mount.

[Monkeyra]

Ok, will take another look this evening :)

[Monkeyra]

Gouky - fits like a glove! Thanks for the tip :)

[Monkeyra]

Fitted my remaining gearbox seal last night, and I fear I may have cocked it up :(

Is this now FUBAR'ed?

Basically, the edge of it has snagged. I thought I was fitting it in straight, but obviously not!

http://talkford.com/uploads/gallery/album_19/gallery_3_19_1005388.jpg

http://talkford.com/uploads/gallery/album_19/gallery_3_19_1306300.jpg

[Gouky]

yeah, that's gotta come back out. but it does not have to delay the install. it can be done in chassis.

[Monkeyra]

Cock and balls, or in the words of homer Simpson, doh!

[Monkeyra]

Am I right in saying that the 2GR-FE can be fitted from above?? Or have I just wasted an entire morning in my garage trying to get it to fit? What's the secret?

[Gouky]

no, it has to come in from the bottom, sorry.

[aussiemr2]

I didnt think any Mr2 engine could come in from the top because of the gearbox ;)

[dgh938peg]

I had the rev2 turbo lump with the box on out the top but it is nigh on impossible to do without some body damage....

V6 ... not a hope in hell!

[headcase]

Sorry to say i got my 2gr in through the top but u cant have headers on nore the alternator .

[dgh938peg]

Sorry to say i got my 2gr in through the top but u cant have headers on nore the alternator .


Well..... every day is a school day!
Having no roof getting in the way must have made a big difference though...?

[headcase]

May have helped u haven't got worry about smashing the rear window lol .

[Monkeyra]

Did it have to go in at a steep angle Patrick to clear the gearbox mount?

[headcase]

Yea dropped itdown so gearbox went down first so that went under were it mounts then levelled it out and bolted in engine mount done it on me Own as well with loads of coffee . Still had subframe in car as well .

[headcase]

If you was closer i pop round and slide it in for your lol as i not doing a lot today .

[Monkeyra]

Yeah, bit far!!

Well, I've got it in the engine bay, lowered down to the right level, and now I've got it jammed. Spent best part of an hour trying to straighten it up, and I give up for today, I'm knackered. Will try again tomorrow. If I don't get it hung from the mounts tomorrow I'm setting fire to my garage.

[dgh938peg]

If you're gonna do that, gimme a shout.. I'll come take that lovely 2gr out first mate :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

[Monkeyra]

You can't, it's jammed!!

[headcase]

Well we drag the car out as well it will just drop in place tomorrow.

[snowtigger]

Pics would be a good idea to see we're its jammed and we could advise (should have put it in from underneath ) lol.

[Monkeyra]

That's what I thought. Quite often I get stuck on something, try again the next day and voila, fixed it.

[Monkeyra]

Pics would be a good idea to see we're its jammed and we could advise (should have put it in from underneath ) lol.

I haven't any that will show where it's jammed, I'm struggling to see myself. I think it's on the rear engine mount though. I would remove it, but I can't lift the engine back up, lol.

[headcase]

Have u got the rubber bit bolted to the box as well .

[Monkeyra]

The gearbox mount? Yeah, that's bolted to the box at the moment.

[headcase]

Take it off by the three bolts so just the plate is left on then it will come up and drop in to place then refit mount back on . The only mount i had on when dropped in was the engine one .

Patrick

[Monkeyra]

Cheers, will give that a go tomorrow.

[cdwood2010]

We got a 2.0 stuck on its way out.

It snags on side then twists and jams. The trick to freeing it is lifting it at a slightly jaunty angle so it tips 5 degrees before actually heading north.

C.

[Gouky]

it really is easier to go in from underneath guys :)

use the engine hoist to lift the car instead of the engine. it works great.

[cdwood2010]

I agree Marc, I was advising on how to get it unstuck!

:)

[Monkeyra]

it really is easier to go in from underneath guys :)

use the engine hoist to lift the car instead of the engine. it works great.

I've a small garage! I measured it up, and I'm 95% certain I wouldn't be able to lift the car high enough to get the engine underneath, the arm of my crane would have hit the roof. I shan't be attempting another engine swap in a single garage, I've learnt that much! It's do-able, but a bloody PITA, and much slower!

[dgh938peg]

I have the benefit of a hydraulic car scissor lift AND a 250kg electric winch on a runway beam... The record with the V6 is a 90 minute removal.....

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/11/259.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/11/260.jpg

Sorry guys... bit of tooltime envy there!
Wish i had room for a 2 post but there's nothing under 8ft tall. I do have some incredible axle stands for when i need to drop a tank out; they're narrow base (45cm dia) and stand the car 80cm off the deck. Not ideally safe but for tank work they're fine; particularly as i slide myself beneath scissor lift for added falling car protetcion.

I do ok with the space i have, we're not all blessed with home workshops as big as a UK 3-bed semi .... are we Marc????? :eusa_think:

Good luck with the unjamming procedure today :)

[Monkeyra]

Is that hoist 240v? I've picked up for free a couple of electric hoists very similar, but they are 440v. It's on my future to do list, once I've got my engine swap completed :)

[dgh938peg]

hoist is 240v :)
I got it from Aldi or Lidl (mate picked it up for me) for £40 :D
You can get the same thing in different colours in screwfix/machine mart for £150.

[jasongtr]

ah my little garage

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/11/261.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/11/262.jpg

[dgh938peg]

the word ... "Bastard!" springs to mind! :D

[jasongtr]

couldnt help myself

[Monkeyra]

I can but dream....

Right, fry-up eaten, off to garage, round 2!!

[Monkeyra]

It's unjammed!

[headcase]

yeah now bolt it in and get it running

[snowtigger]

C'mon thought it would be first fire up vid by now?

[Monkeyra]

A monumental occasion for myself, who has never swapped an engine over before!

http://talkford.com/uploads/gallery/album_19/gallery_3_19_95334.jpg

Had a couple of casualties that I've spotted.

1) Broke my clutch slave cylinder off (sorry Chris!)

2) Snapped the little lug off this little blighter, whatever it may do?

http://talkford.com/uploads/gallery/album_19/gallery_3_19_243083.jpg

Also can't find my bloody engine mount bolts, so currently hung on some threaded rod. Need to tidy the garage up now, it's a fricking shit hole death trap!

[headcase]

Bet you feel better now its in the hole , i allways feel better once its in the hole lol.
Easy going from here on just got use the grey cells now .

Patrick

[snowtigger]

Should have gone underneath is all I'm going to say, I use the engine hoist to lift the rear in the air deflate the front tyres and that gives just enough room outside to roll the engine under.
I've done several outside under a canopy in winter with the rain going down my neck and having to put the spanners on the rubber of the tyres so they don't freeze to the floor.

[headcase]

Should have gone underneath is all I'm going to say, I use the engine hoist to lift the rear in the air deflate the front tyres and that gives just enough room outside to roll the engine under.
I've done several outside under a canopy in winter with the rain going down my neck and having to put the spanners on the rubber of the tyres so they don't freeze to the floor.

yes there are easy in from underneath ,when i do them down the garage on the two poster they are piss easy, but if u do in the space nick had then its easyer and safer drop in though the top because when your garage is the same width as the car theres no escape if all goes wrong .


patrick

[cdwood2010]

couldnt help myself

Now we all hate you.

:p

[snowtigger]

yes there are easy in from underneath ,when i do them down the garage on the two poster they are piss easy, but if u do in the space nick had then its easyer and safer drop in though the top because when your garage is the same width as the car theres no escape if all goes wrong .


patrick

I don't do them in my garage for just that reason I do them out side were there's plenty of get away room if something starts to go awry, and I also ask a friend to be a spanner monkey and general if it does go tits up he can phone the emergency services, no one likes to be pinned under a ton of car I've had a 4 post lift fail and a two post come down each time I've been saved by my 3 inch thick 6 foot crowbar propped under the hydraulic arm, I don't trust those emergency clamps after that experience .

I bet the new ramps are a lot more safe today but 25 years ago and my boss being a tight wad never serviced the outside four poster.

[Monkeyra]

I don't do them in my garage for just that reason I do them out side were there's plenty of get away room if something starts to go awry, and I also ask a friend to be a spanner monkey and general if it does go tits up he can phone the emergency services, no one likes to be pinned under a ton of car I've had a 4 post lift fail and a two post come down each time I've been saved by my 3 inch thick 6 foot crowbar propped under the hydraulic arm, I don't trust those emergency clamps after that experience .

I bet the new ramps are a lot more safe today but 25 years ago and my boss being a tight wad never serviced the outside four poster.

Unfortunately I can't do that, I've a steep drive. But I do have lots of large bits of wood!! Wood I have decided is the ultimate, a large chuck of 6x4 isn't going anywhere!

Starting to look a little more like a 2GR-FE install now :)

http://talkford.com/uploads/gallery/album_19/gallery_3_19_133618.jpg

[cdwood2010]

Hi nick,

As I said, I would have set some brackets on the side walls and pegged in a cross brace to support the whole car.

C.

[Monkeyra]

I've done the hard work now - I hope....

[Monkeyra]

A minor update, but a large step for me. All four engine mounts are now securely in place!! :D Was actually easier than I thought it would be to get the last two, despite being upside down underneath the car. So that just leaves the alternator to refit, manifolds, wiring to outsource to Paul, plumb it in, find someone to fab me an exhaust and we're done :)

[headcase]

Be running by the weekend then .

[Monkeyra]

I was aiming for next summer, but it may be sooner!

[Monkeyra]

So, what have I managed to achieve since the 28th November?

I've managed to change one of my driveshaft cages for an uprated CRW one. One down, one to go. Except that I've lost my other driveshaft. I kid you not. Probably out in the garden somewhere.

[cdwood2010]

Seriously. Lost a driveshaft.

:-0

[Monkeyra]

Well, when I last looked, it was in the boot of my MR2. Looked in there last night expecting to find it and it isn't. I must have moved it in my sleep or something. It can't be up in the shed as it's too freaking heavy with the hub and stuff attached. Confuzzled. I'll have to go out with a torch tonight and play hide and seek.

[cdwood2010]

Nick,

I'm going to see a nice man in Bedford to pickup my gearbox tonight.

If you really have lost your driveshaft or just need another one, I'm sure he has one.

C.

[Monkeyra]

It'll be floating around somewhere, thanks anyway mate :-)

[Monkeyra]

Found it hiding under some tarpaulin. I Win! :D

Anyway, back to the driveshafts. I've roughly seated the passenger side one (short one) but noticed that the circular spring that sits inside the gearbox seal has fallen off and was laying on the ground. What exactly does this circular spring do? I had a good old look and can't see it adding any force anywhere, it's far too weedy. Will it cause problems if I leave it out?

[headcase]

Found it hiding under some tarpaulin. I Win! :D

Anyway, back to the driveshafts. I've roughly seated the passenger side one (short one) but noticed that the circular spring that sits inside the gearbox seal has fallen off and was laying on the ground. What exactly does this circular spring do? I had a good old look and can't see it adding any force anywhere, it's far too weedy. Will it cause problems if I leave it out?

The spring is it the one that fits behind the lip of the rubber bit on the seal if it is then it has to be on there pic would help.
Patrick

[cdwood2010]

If its a driveshaft oil seal then it keeps the seal itself in good order. Without it, it won't last.

Contact Aaron and get a new pair.

C.

[Monkeyra]

The spring is it the one that fits behind the lip of the rubber bit on the seal if it is then it has to be on there pic would help.
Patrick

That's the one. So a spring that weedy actually does something? I'll have to try and see if I can get it back on, I'll be buggered if I'm buying a new one, that'll be the 3rd one then!!

[Monkeyra]

Two more questions from tonight's adventure in the garage.

1) This is my FPR. I'm assuming these things aren't rocket science? I somehow plumb up a fuel line from the fuel filter into this, and it then goes into the engine somewhere? (A fuel rail or something?) Is that it, or is there some kind of vacuum needed as well which is plumbed into the engine somewhere?

http://talkford.com/uploads/gallery/album_19/gallery_3_19_1136219.jpg

2) I thought I'd offer up my drivers side driveshaft to see if it fitted or not (I've read a couple of people didn't need to machine anything off). This seems to be as far as I can hammer it in. What is it that needs machining to make it fit? Is it the bearing carrier?

http://talkford.com/uploads/gallery/album_19/gallery_3_19_1058391.jpg

http://talkford.com/uploads/gallery/album_19/gallery_3_19_660605.jpg

http://talkford.com/uploads/gallery/album_19/gallery_3_19_915090.jpg

Thanks!!

[cdwood2010]

That's the one. So a spring that weedy actually does something? I'll have to try and see if I can get it back on, I'll be buggered if I'm buying a new one, that'll be the 3rd one then!!

So you spend £4k+ on an engine swap and quibble at a few pounds for a seal that will likely save your gearbox?

Slap yourself and order a box of 10. I will buy two off you!

;)

[Monkeyra]

Surely I must be able to refit the spring though?

[oteck]

those who doesn't need to modify it are the cheapskates who runs the n/a gearbox, they don't have carrier bearings :P
the turbo axle requires the carrier bearing to be moved 8mm toward the gearbox. if you don't do this the axle will pop out because
there is no clip inside the spline end on the to keep it in unlike the LH side short stub.

the other method is modify the mr2 turbo carrier by either building a bracket to bolt it on the block or weld on new mounting tabs

[cdwood2010]

Yikes!

We bought new carriers from Toyota. The thought of 'modifying' them is making me squirm a bit.

Needless to say I haven't got that far yet, I'm hoping to pick up pointers from everyone else!

;)

[dgh938peg]

I'm also concerned that your driveshaft is missing the metal cup that covers and protects the gearbox/driveshaft seal.....

You can refit the spring to a seal but i have not had much success at this with the seal fitted to the housing (I've had to to loads of these seal replacements on huge vacuum pumps ... think of an Eaton M112 supercharger and treble the size)

From an Engineers PoV I'd replace the seal and ... without question ... get a new metal cup. The cup stops all the road crap building up on the seal and shredding it inside of 5 miles...

you can see it here...
http://admin.rpmgarage.com/resize.php?pic=attachments/cc252e6b061aa43658be7673546d0217.jpg&size=640

They're on BOTH sides too.

[dgh938peg]

Part numbers from Toyodiy (best check with the dealer too...)

41336C COVER, DUST(FOR REAR DRIVE SHAFT)
41336‑12020 SW20..GT, RH 1 $5.38
41336‑17020 SW20..GT, LH 1 $27.04

Using 1992 & ACMZZ chassis number references.

[Monkeyra]

The crap covers are there, I just pulled them out of the way so I could see what was going on.

So the bearing, to move it, anyone know what's involved? Is this the machining I've read about?

I'll give the spring a go, does look fiddly i must say!

[oteck]

to move it you'll end up destroying the bearing, they never come out alive and it's better time to replace it anyway.
you need to cut a new c-clip grove infront of it and add a spacer behind it. paul may be able to rig you up one better ask him

[Monkeyra]

Small update, my driveshaft is off to Patrick to be machined (Top bloke!), and I've taken a look at fitting my new clutch slave cylinder as I broke the old one upon fitting the engine. What I need are some new pipes, the two metal ones which go from the slave cylinder to the mounting bracket. Does anyone have a spare set in good condition?

[headcase]

Small update, my driveshaft is off to Patrick to be machined (Top bloke!), and I've taken a look at fitting my new clutch slave cylinder as I broke the old one upon fitting the engine. What I need are some new pipes, the two metal ones which go from the slave cylinder to the mounting bracket. Does anyone have a spare set in good condition?
Well it just so happens

[headcase]

I make u a new set and send back with your shaft

Patrick

[Monkeyra]

Wow, thanks Patrick. You need to let me know what your favourite tipple is ;)

[Monkeyra]

Stupid question time... could someone point me in the direction that I plumpb my FPR into? I know one hose goes from the fuel filter to the FPR, but then I'm lost. Is it hidden under the plastic manifold by any chance?

[Monkeyra]

Small update so you know I haven't given up.

Fuel lines and FPR all plumbed up, again with a little help from Patrick.

The passenger side driveshaft gave me an inordinate amount of grief. I really struggled to get this in, until I decided to undo it at the cv joint and put just the stub axle in. Bang, straight in. Connected the cv joint back up, and then the suspension wouldn't connect. It then dawned on me that I had installed the uprated CRW cage incorrectly... so, did a search, and came across Paul's ever so helpful photo: http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=49216&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=ballache&start=20&sid=82c2475cb1ea0f8df5781706f628d1d0

Voila. Just need to install the pesky circlip on the end of the inner race, then bolt the whole shebang up.

That then leaves the gearcables to refit, complete the water plumbing, exhaust and electrics. And it's done!

[cdwood2010]

Yay! Thought you'd left town squire! Glad to hear you're still ticking along!

Pics or it didn't happen, you know the rules!

:)

C.

[Monkeyra]

Driveshafts fitted, suspension and rear subframe fitted, brakes connected, wheels on. Car is now sitting on the floor awaiting it's move to it's new home! Which also means this'll probably be the last update for a while :(

[Monkeyra]

And nearly 4 months later, I'm just about ready to start again!!

Look, I've still got it!

http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2013/07/413.jpg

And this is as far as I've got:

http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2013/07/414.jpg

Need to read through my topic now to figure out where I got to...

Electrics I think :)

[cdwood2010]

Well hello sailor!

I'm sure you will get back up to speed in no time at all. Let me know if i can help at all!

Chris.

[snowtigger]

The long lost 2gr build starts again?

[Monkeyra]

I think this weekends job will be to get the car jacked up in the air and back on the chocks of wood. I'll then go over all the mechanical stuff to remind myself what I have completed. I can't remember for example if I connected the clutch hose to the engine or not? And I'll then create a list :-)

[cdwood2010]

Sounds like a great plan.

I've made a list, well actually two. A list of jobs left and a total list of all jobs.

Will PM you a copy in case it helps.......

[Monkeyra]

And 5 weeks later.... I didn't achieve what I wanted to.

I've finally got my garage cleared out enough today to get to the car from all angles though.

This week's job in the evenings will be to jack it up, and get myself re-acquainted.

I promise.

[cdwood2010]

Good to hear mate.

Did I send you that job list? If I didn't let me know and I will get it sent, it will probably make a good crib sheet.

Don't worry about the wiring for now, I've got some notes that might be of use.

C.

[Monkeyra]

No, you didn't. Please do, will be a good memory jogger if nothing else.

[Monkeyra]

It's official, the swap has restarted :-D

Car is now back in the air, safely supported on some large chunks of wood.

[Tommytank]

So how is the list looking?

[Monkeyra]

Pretty good. Going by Chris's list and my memory:

Plumb fuel system and FPR (probably 90% complete)
Plumb coolant and heater lines
Feed loom through into boot
Fit throttle pedal bracket and run wires through to the boot
Build and fit new exhaust
Extend lambda wires to new downpipes
Wire up ECU and DBW throttle wires
Wire in OBD2 plug
Connect vacuum pipe for brake servo
Front brakes need overhaul (seized)

[Tommytank]

Plumb fuel system and FPR (probably 90% complete) - 10% to go, 1 hour
Plumb coolant and heater lines - 4 hours for dropped spanner allowance
Feed loom through into boot - 2 minutes
Fit throttle pedal bracket and run wires through to the boot - 1 hour
Build and fit new exhaust - Get someone else to do it!
Extend lambda wires to new downpipes - Bit of soldering. 20 minutes!
Wire up ECU and DBW throttle wires - How hard can this be? ;)
Wire in OBD2 plug - Thats just 70 wires, right?
Connect vacuum pipe for brake servo - one pipe, pile of stale piss to do!
Front brakes need overhaul (seized)[/QUOTE] - You met Keri? ;)

By my math, you should be done this weekend! Lookin forward to the first drive vid on Sunday.....................

[cdwood2010]

lol. no pressure.

:)

[Monkeyra]

Everything is easy apart from the dreaded wiring...

And possibly the mounting adaptor for the pedal won't fit from what I've read? (adaptor is for a left hooker or something)

[headcase]

Modifiy throttle pedal bracket then fit the pedal and modify then try to get it were you want it so it's comfortable to drive . :-D

[Monkeyra]

Obligatory wiring diagrams have been stuck up :praise2:

http://www.talkford.com/uploads/gallery/album_19/gallery_3_19_1734303.jpg


Have come across two problems though:

1) Only three out of the 5 plugs fi the ECU. Is that correct, and means they should be plugged into something else?

http://www.talkford.com/uploads/gallery/album_19/gallery_3_19_2757603.jpg


2) I thought I'd check a couple of wires against the wiring diagrams (one is for a 2008 Sienna (mines a 2007 Sienna)) and the other is a Patrick special. None of them match up colour wise, which has left me a little stumped. It's been a LONG time since I last had to meaningfully use wiring diagrams.

[headcase]

Yes three plug in and you should have two more with just tales on :-) plugs d and e
And you will be cutting of the wires on the other plugs as there were the ones connected to the body for power and earths :-):-):-):-)

[Monkeyra]

Hmmm, I think I may be missing them, like Chris was I think?

[headcase]

Well got plugs and tails now new
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/08/65.jpg
Just got to sort this lot out now run sheilded wire from front to rear with three spare wires in side never know when u need them
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/08/66.jpg

I got my ones from mwracing :-)

[cdwood2010]

Hmmm, I think I may be missing them, like Chris was I think?

Bugger. Right, do what I did - find what else that type of ECU got fitted to and get the plugs from that.

The two plug ECU was the same as the Yaris, which is where I got my missing plug from.

There's a strong likelihood from the look of this ere pic that you need to find someone breaking a Corolla.....

http://bit.ly/14T2m3E

C.

[Monkeyra]

Patrick, what did they cost from MWR? I'd sooner go the quick and easy route at the moment, got enough roadblocks to contend with as it is.

[headcase]

They were 80 dollers for both of them if you email Matt at monkeywrench racing and ask for plugs d and e on the 2gr 5 plug Ecu with 8inch tails , :-):-)

[Monkeyra]

Cheers mate, I'll do that I think, will save me time playing hunt the ECU.