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View Full Version : What do I need for a 600ish hp gearbox monster black Raven



godtheater
04-05-2012, 16:45
The time has come I will make my 2.2 a monster. I know the I have the standard gear box NA.

What trans will I need?
Do I need to strengthen the frame?
Picked up some huge injectors and a massive fuel pump.

Rebuilding motor from round up. goal is 550-600 hp..

What gearbox will take a beating and keep on going?

-R

snowtigger
04-05-2012, 18:01
Turbo rev3 box with a quaife LSD and uprated turbo inner cv joints plus turbo shafts and hubs.

Also a very strong clutch with a chromoloy flywheel to transfer the power to the gearbox.

An NA gearbox will implode at over 300bhp the turbo is your best option.

godtheater
04-05-2012, 18:57
Thank you - How about the frame of the car do I need todo anything to keep it from twisting ?

snowtigger
04-05-2012, 21:01
A roll cage would help have a look at the 750bhp mk2 drag car on YouTube, it may give you ideas.

MMaddict
04-05-2012, 21:06
You want good (strut) braces, probably a cage. (than you'll also need other seats and seatbelts)

some huge injectors and a massive fuel pump won't do the trick, you're going to need a whole lot more as that...

Is my assumption right if I think you got a 2.2 5SFE NA?

In that case you'll need a big turbo, different exhaust and internals as-well....

You might be better of buying a Turbo half-cut.

AlunJ
04-05-2012, 23:45
How much time do you have to spend on the chassis work? A good cage, front & rear strutbraces plus a braced front bulkhead (to stop the brake pressure flexing the bulkhead) would be nice to have. Seam welding is also a nice option and fairly easy to do whilst checking the chassis for any signs of rust.
What sort of torque are you aiming for? We're about to try a rev3 turbo gearbox with a fairly violently delivered 420ft/lb and we're taking bets on it expiring on the first decent-grip launch :driving:

dgh938peg
05-05-2012, 01:24
Gearbox/Transmission - you will need a turbo E153 with driveshafts and hubs BUT standard shafts will not cope with that power.. You'll need to update to CRW cages. As others have said, a later one from a 94+ car with LSD..

As for chassis strengthening, a cage isn't really necessary but i would be finding and investing in TRD front and rear upper braces, Ultra Racing body and lower braces and a torque bar for the transmission. I'd also consider making her stop quick as part of the power containment question. If a BBK is out of the question then braided lines and Carbotech pads a must..... Warp speed needs to be reigned in quickly :D Polybush the torque mounts too!

On the 2.2 front, the guys on the US boards are much more 'in tune' with doing this as over in the UK, we did not have the 5SFE. We only got the 3SGE and the 3SGTE via grey import. I don't want to sound like teaching granny to suck eggs on the engine front :) 5SGTE builds kick ass!

So come on.... spill the beans on the motor!??!

Crippler7815
05-05-2012, 06:26
You could also foam fill the chassis with expanding foam for stiffness. That plus the cage should be plenty

dgh938peg
05-05-2012, 10:34
You could also foam fill the chassis with expanding foam for stiffness. That plus the cage should be plenty

Really??? Foam??? Spongy stuff for stiffness???

You'll have to excuse my cynicism but its not one i have heard of before..!

cdwood2010
05-05-2012, 10:54
It's new to me too! Very interesting!

If you pick up a lump of it and have a feel, its quite solid.

Isn't that what gets injected into the car in Demolition Man!?

:)

Goldy
05-05-2012, 11:17
May want to consider uprating the CV joints i've heard the cages can be a weak point at those sort of power levels...

This sort of thing.... http://www.tcsmotorsports.com/crwhdaxcaup.html

snowtigger
05-05-2012, 13:37
Crw or ats cages are the ones over 300+bhp.

Crippler7815
05-05-2012, 14:20
http://www.sr20-forum.com/suspension/11917-foam-filling-chassis.html

Some light reading. It'd be a good idea to rust seal the inside of the chassis with por-15 or a rust inhibitor first, then pass with the foam so it doesn't trap moisture. Adds all sorts of stiffness and really deadens a lot of noise too.

mr2japan
06-05-2012, 08:01
Wont he need to get Turbo hubs and upgrade them as well since he is N/A.. >?

snowtigger
06-05-2012, 11:38
I did say turbo every thing on the rear even brakes, the turbo shafts won't fit the na hubs and if you need abs ones there even more expensive .

godtheater
07-05-2012, 18:39
Not a fan of Foam gets everywhere and into everything.. Upgrade CV joints perfec ty for the link. yes 2.2 5sfe motor has 120k on it. - Yes I know I need more then big injectors and large fuel pump. I was just brain dumping and started to collect my thoughts on this 2.2 motor. My mini list so far 5s pauter rods and CP pistons and cometic 5s HG. The problem is finding this junk in the USA..... I have 2 mr2 the black on which is RAVEN and My white 93 Turbo 2gr swap (White sky) installed 2gr all the shit done found out last week 2gr has a cracked BLOCK! #@$@$@#!! Anyway thought I do some 2.2 madness.. SO really just to get past 300hp in a 2.2 looks like I will have to Turbo it. hmmm.......

MMaddict
08-05-2012, 14:29
YOu know pfauter rods are overkill right? You should be fine with eagle rods....

dgh938peg
08-05-2012, 14:40
Either way addict, forged rods are necessary above 450 i believe... But true enough, AFAIK Eagles are way cheaper than Pauter.

bigpitty1
14-05-2012, 10:57
You probably want to upgrade your engine mounts aswell, I've destroyed a set on my 3SGTE making a bit over 300hp at the hubs.

Gearbox like everyone said the E153, there are 3 versions, rev1 which had single syncros on all gears, rev2 had 3 piece syncros on 5th and rev3 had 3 piece syncro on 2nd, 3rd and 5th and singles on 1st and 4th.
The gearboxes with single syncros are known to wear the syncros ie mine and only has 60,000km on it this is believed to be due to the gears in the e153 being bigger and stronger than the NA boxes and the syncro has a harder time doing their job, thats why rev3 e153s are popular.
But from another thing I've heard is that the rev1 (maybe rev2 but not sure) they have steel shift forks and rev3 have aluminium shift forks which I have heard have broken under really hard gear shifting, I havent seen this in real life but heard it from some guys in the US

godtheater
30-12-2012, 13:29
Excellent thanks guys!