goddom
08-04-2012, 17:30
I am not the first and maybe not the last, but I did a write up on my blog and I thought I would share it here.
http://consummatedriver.blogspot.com/2012/04/how-to-coil-over-conversion-story-and.html
Though I go into more detail and have a lot more pictures on the blog, here is a part list, dis-assembly instructions and assembly instructions.
For this conversion, you will need to increase the clearance between the front wheels and strut housing. The stock spring setup has the spring sitting above the wheel. The coil-over spring sits behind the wheel so will need more clearance. So you will probably need to install wheel spacers and longer wheel studs (see my video HERE (http://youtu.be/Vm3WvmfM9Oo). Also, to keep the front sway bar you will need move the front sway bar bracket down, which means getting new endlinks. Check out Powergrid (http://www.powergridinc.com/) , they make custom end links.
1. Disassemble the strut and remove the upper mount and spring. Second, take measurements. See my video posted on youtube that shows how to disassemble struts HERE (http://youtu.be/0NDIeIt-l1w).
2.Measure the overall length of the strut, the length of the body, the distance from the end links bracket to the end of the strut, the shock body diameter, length of the strut rod, the diameter of the strut end, and distances to other brackets you may have on the strut body. Also measure the length of the spring, and the thickness of the upper strut mount.
3. Cut off the spring perches and grind the housing "smooth." For the MR2 front strut you will also need to cut off the sway bar end-link bracket.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/04/58.jpg
4. Put the strut housing into a vice and remove the gland nut with a monkey wrench.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/04/59.jpg
5. For the front struts, weld the front sway bar bracket just above the knuckle bracket. Then weld a bead around the strut for the coil-over sleeves to sit on. For the rear struts, the sleeve will also sit on the sway bar bracket, and you should weld a bead around the strut at that location.
6. Cut the bump stock bump stop in half. More than likely you will be lowering the car which means you will be decreasing the travel of the shock so cutting the bump stop in half will give you a little more travel.
7. (Optional) Sand blast and paint the strut housings. I would also suggest grinding off any sharp features. That will reduce the chances of the paint chipping or peeling. For instance there are little tabs on the knuckle bracket that should be ground down. After painting them, us caulk or silicon to fill in the gap around the top of the knuckle bracket. This will prevent water and debris from collecting there and causing corrosion in the future.
Parts List
Coil-over Sleeves; 2.038" ID, 5" Length (x4): (http://shop.a1racing.com/cok12450.aspx) $15.53 ea
Lower Spring Perch (x4): (http://shop.a1racing.com/cok12460.aspx) $12.60 ea
2.5" Coil Spring Tops - Upper Spring Perch(2 sets) from Ebay: $64 total (with powder coating)
Springs – Fronts (Set of 2) (Eibach, 250# 8”): $103 – bought as Edelbrocks on Summit Racing
Springs – Rear (Set of 2) (King, 400# 10”): $43 – bought on ebay, used
O-rings (8 total): $4 (local hardware store)
18mm Washer (6): $2 (local hardware store)
1" Washer (2): $1.50 (local hardware store)
Light Weight Oil (engine oil, shock oil): $4 (local autoparts store)
Total: $334
Now for assembly.
1. Put (1) o-ring on the strut housing (about 2-3" from the top of strut housing)
2. Slide coil-over sleeve over o-ring. The sleeve should slide over the o-ring and be moderately tight. If the o-ring is just to thick, wrap the strut tower with electrical tape about 1" above the weld bead. The purpose of the o-ring or electrical tape is to remove play between the sleeve and the housing and prevent the sleeve from spinning when adjusting ride height.
3. Take a second o-ring and force it into the gap between the strut housing and sleeve from the top.
4. Screw the lower spring perch onto sleeve (can be done later).
5. Put the strut housing into a vice, and protect the paint with rags. Pour about 3oz of oil into the housing. The oil fills the gap between the cartridge and the strut housing to prevent heat building up in the shock. I prefer not to use tranny fluid or gear oil because of the smell. Engine oil will work, basically any oil will be fine.
6. Insert strut cartridge. Check oil level, and fill as necessary. You want the oil to be about .5-1" from the top.
7. Apply some anti-seize to the gland nut and screw it on. First by hand and then tighten with a monkey wrench.
8. Put spring on.
9. Put bump stop on the shock cylinder.
10. Put top spring perch on
11. Put (1) 1" washer on (FOR THE FRONT STRUTS ONLY). This is acting as a spacer so that the top spring perch contacts the bearing portion of the front strut mount. See below photos. I also added bearing greases here to prevent corrosion and wear. This section will be turning with the wheels.
12. Put the strut mount on.
13. Put (3) 18mm washers on (FRONT ONLY). The stock upper strut mount would usually sit under the mount, and without it there is some play between the mount and the locking nut that holds this all together. These washers take up this play.
14. Screw on the locking nut on the end of the shock shaft. The hardest part about this is that the shock will want to spin. You best bet it to snug it up by holding the shaft with your fingers through the coil. Once it starts to spin you can try wrapping a piece of rubber around the shaft and grip it with vice grips. Get them as tight as you can. Don't worry, you won't be able to get it super tight, but it should be good enough.
Here is a pic of my finished coil-overs.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/04/60.jpg
http://consummatedriver.blogspot.com/2012/04/how-to-coil-over-conversion-story-and.html
Though I go into more detail and have a lot more pictures on the blog, here is a part list, dis-assembly instructions and assembly instructions.
For this conversion, you will need to increase the clearance between the front wheels and strut housing. The stock spring setup has the spring sitting above the wheel. The coil-over spring sits behind the wheel so will need more clearance. So you will probably need to install wheel spacers and longer wheel studs (see my video HERE (http://youtu.be/Vm3WvmfM9Oo). Also, to keep the front sway bar you will need move the front sway bar bracket down, which means getting new endlinks. Check out Powergrid (http://www.powergridinc.com/) , they make custom end links.
1. Disassemble the strut and remove the upper mount and spring. Second, take measurements. See my video posted on youtube that shows how to disassemble struts HERE (http://youtu.be/0NDIeIt-l1w).
2.Measure the overall length of the strut, the length of the body, the distance from the end links bracket to the end of the strut, the shock body diameter, length of the strut rod, the diameter of the strut end, and distances to other brackets you may have on the strut body. Also measure the length of the spring, and the thickness of the upper strut mount.
3. Cut off the spring perches and grind the housing "smooth." For the MR2 front strut you will also need to cut off the sway bar end-link bracket.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/04/58.jpg
4. Put the strut housing into a vice and remove the gland nut with a monkey wrench.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/04/59.jpg
5. For the front struts, weld the front sway bar bracket just above the knuckle bracket. Then weld a bead around the strut for the coil-over sleeves to sit on. For the rear struts, the sleeve will also sit on the sway bar bracket, and you should weld a bead around the strut at that location.
6. Cut the bump stock bump stop in half. More than likely you will be lowering the car which means you will be decreasing the travel of the shock so cutting the bump stop in half will give you a little more travel.
7. (Optional) Sand blast and paint the strut housings. I would also suggest grinding off any sharp features. That will reduce the chances of the paint chipping or peeling. For instance there are little tabs on the knuckle bracket that should be ground down. After painting them, us caulk or silicon to fill in the gap around the top of the knuckle bracket. This will prevent water and debris from collecting there and causing corrosion in the future.
Parts List
Coil-over Sleeves; 2.038" ID, 5" Length (x4): (http://shop.a1racing.com/cok12450.aspx) $15.53 ea
Lower Spring Perch (x4): (http://shop.a1racing.com/cok12460.aspx) $12.60 ea
2.5" Coil Spring Tops - Upper Spring Perch(2 sets) from Ebay: $64 total (with powder coating)
Springs – Fronts (Set of 2) (Eibach, 250# 8”): $103 – bought as Edelbrocks on Summit Racing
Springs – Rear (Set of 2) (King, 400# 10”): $43 – bought on ebay, used
O-rings (8 total): $4 (local hardware store)
18mm Washer (6): $2 (local hardware store)
1" Washer (2): $1.50 (local hardware store)
Light Weight Oil (engine oil, shock oil): $4 (local autoparts store)
Total: $334
Now for assembly.
1. Put (1) o-ring on the strut housing (about 2-3" from the top of strut housing)
2. Slide coil-over sleeve over o-ring. The sleeve should slide over the o-ring and be moderately tight. If the o-ring is just to thick, wrap the strut tower with electrical tape about 1" above the weld bead. The purpose of the o-ring or electrical tape is to remove play between the sleeve and the housing and prevent the sleeve from spinning when adjusting ride height.
3. Take a second o-ring and force it into the gap between the strut housing and sleeve from the top.
4. Screw the lower spring perch onto sleeve (can be done later).
5. Put the strut housing into a vice, and protect the paint with rags. Pour about 3oz of oil into the housing. The oil fills the gap between the cartridge and the strut housing to prevent heat building up in the shock. I prefer not to use tranny fluid or gear oil because of the smell. Engine oil will work, basically any oil will be fine.
6. Insert strut cartridge. Check oil level, and fill as necessary. You want the oil to be about .5-1" from the top.
7. Apply some anti-seize to the gland nut and screw it on. First by hand and then tighten with a monkey wrench.
8. Put spring on.
9. Put bump stop on the shock cylinder.
10. Put top spring perch on
11. Put (1) 1" washer on (FOR THE FRONT STRUTS ONLY). This is acting as a spacer so that the top spring perch contacts the bearing portion of the front strut mount. See below photos. I also added bearing greases here to prevent corrosion and wear. This section will be turning with the wheels.
12. Put the strut mount on.
13. Put (3) 18mm washers on (FRONT ONLY). The stock upper strut mount would usually sit under the mount, and without it there is some play between the mount and the locking nut that holds this all together. These washers take up this play.
14. Screw on the locking nut on the end of the shock shaft. The hardest part about this is that the shock will want to spin. You best bet it to snug it up by holding the shaft with your fingers through the coil. Once it starts to spin you can try wrapping a piece of rubber around the shaft and grip it with vice grips. Get them as tight as you can. Don't worry, you won't be able to get it super tight, but it should be good enough.
Here is a pic of my finished coil-overs.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/04/60.jpg