Brian's swap

[briweekes]

A good day. Excellent progress, carefully labelling the pipes and cables.

Followed the brilliant engine removal guide I downloaded from here. the only real challenge today was unbolting the engine mounts fro the Camry. Those bolts that peek down through the chassis frame have such a long thread, my normal sockets don't fit, presumably that means buying a set of long reach box spanners?

Hopefully crane the engone out before lunch tomorrow- exciting times!

:icon_biggrin:

[cdwood2010]

Happy time!

We want pics!

Chris

[SlipSlide]

Good stuff Brian, all the best with it.

[briweekes]

A slide show from today's activity (from the Blackberry, so have jazzed up a little)..enjoy!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=unfPpK-bfzA

[briweekes]

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/8089/out2k.jpg

http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/7263/out1m.jpg

http://img857.imageshack.us/img857/4824/out3.jpg

[Jiff Lemon]

Excellent work (and superb video production again!).

You've some fun times ahead: You've the V6 initiation test to pass (getting the autobox/torque convertor off). Then the shock of how small the engine looks once you strip half the crap off it.

[snowtigger]

Plus that nut with the 8 foot long breaker bar.

[cdwood2010]

Plus that nut with the 8 foot long breaker bar.

Bollocks - meant to do mine before we pulled the engine out....

Loving that shopping trolley - i want one!!!

Chris.

[briweekes]

need an idiots guide to stripping the crap that's not required, off the engine, hopefully somewhere on TwoBrutal. 8 ft breaker bar? oh shit, are you pulling my leg snowtigger?

[cdwood2010]

Hi

Generally you will need a big breaker bar to crack the bolt on the crank so you can change the cam belt etc. There are several ways to hold the crank while you injure yourself trying, most involve a big mate or sturdy wife perhaps.

You can lock off the flywheel plate thing or fashion a two pronged tool to fit the two deep holes on the crank pulley.

Oh and take it off the trolley or it will try and get you!

Surplus stuff - if you don't need PAS or aircon they can go along with the brackets. There's about 50kg there for a start. Tape a note to the cables so you don't wonder where they go later?

Also you don't need either engine mount from the front or back (this is a mk2 right?) of the block. I think it's used on the mk1 conversion. The back one has the drive carrier in it. The front one looks like a big triangular leg thing. Neither of those are light.....

Hope this helps a bit, but our build was a real photo casebook so let me know if you would like to browse it.

Watch that sun today!!!

Chris

[adamh]

good luck bri, nice video, the bionic man it reminds me of!.

[briweekes]

excellent, thanks for this useful info Chris, actually I've had some probs getting the Camry rear engine mount bracket off the 3VZ (you'll see from the p;ics I'm about to put on here)..so it'll be handy to know if the correspinding bolt holes on the engine will need to be used again (if not, I'll grind or drill to bolt heads off).
I really could do with a blow by blow run down on what to do next, I need to strip all the unwanted stuff off there (yes the aircon pump and stuff)

http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/4266/rearcamrymount.jpg

Auto box removed, yippee (bloody heavy, knackered a couple of wheels on my creeper trolley in the process):

http://img863.imageshack.us/img863/6613/freeofautobox.jpg

Nobody warned me of the bleeding arsehole, AKA the automatic gearbox torque converter, which kept pissing out automatic gearbox oil from its middle Anus. Next challenge to get rid of that, you'll see I've stuffed it with kitchen roll as I couldn't lay my hands on one of the Missus Tampax- see next pic

http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/5623/autoboxtorqueconverter.jpg

Yes please Chris, would like to browse your build.

cheers

Brian

[Garbe]

Brian, are you fitting a turbo box or na? I think you may need the drive shaft bracket for a turbo box.

[briweekes]

I'm plopping this 3VZ onto my MKII NA manual gearbox, and need to know for certain about whether I need the Camry mounts (part of the rear one is still in the donor car engine bay).

I removed the power steering/aircon pump and pulley this afternoon from the V6, another heavy part, thankfully I won't need. Having some issues with seized bolts, have been careful and still rounded 'em off. Will have to purchase a set of stud extracting sockets (the ones with the little rollers in them) and a proper T handle for my stud extracting bits I already have (been using a feeble tap and die handle so far). One day I'll get a decent electric impact wrench, can you believe they're over €600 euro here in Ireland (the shops are still keeping their celtic tiger prices- sky high)!
Its been over 20 years since I did my last couple of engine swaps, and the engines were covered in oil, so the bolts never corroded, unlike this V6. Leaving dodgy driveshaft oil seals and rocker cover gaskets has its benefits

[briweekes]

Thanks Adamh, I used the six million dollar man theme for that slideshow, slightly edited.

[Jiff Lemon]

If you're going to try and do equal length driveshafts, you'll need PART of the mount... Mr grinder to the rescue! The actual rubber bit can go, but the bit with the driveshaft in obviously stays. If your NOT doing equal length drive shafts, the lot can go (but keep in the spares bin until after the swap.

Torque convertor off, Aircon pump off, Power steering pump off, keep the flex plate on for the moment, as you'll need something to lock the crank up for the "OMG whats this lump i've developed since trying to crack the bottom pulley off" job.

[ColleyV8]

"OMG whats this lump i've developed since trying to crack the bottom pulley off" job.

I must have been lucky, stuck a 12" socket extension bar through the flexplate, used a socket and 12" bar and hit it with a rubber mallet and it came undone, easy as.

Although, I have just realised that you can't wash brake calipers in white spirit as the rubber seals turn to mush, another shopping trip needed after this weekends work.

[briweekes]

[QUOTE=Jiff Lemon;236505]If you're going to try and do equal length driveshafts, you'll need PART of the mount... Mr grinder to the rescue! The actual rubber bit can go, but the bit with the driveshaft in obviously stays. If your NOT doing equal length drive shafts, the lot can go (but keep in the spares bin until after the swap.

keep the flex plate on for the moment, as you'll need something to lock the crank up QUOTE]....not sure I'll need to remove the bottom pulley


..you got me thinking, now I need to find a thorough task breakdown of the SW20 NA to V6 3VZ swap to learn about that rear mount with the shafts going through, amongst other things..any ideas?

Whats this flex plate you mention (sorry to be thick on that)?

[cdwood2010]

....not sure I'll need to remove the bottom pulley / Whats this flex plate you mention (sorry to be thick on that)?

You will need that pulley off to change the cambelt - its pinned behind a washer behind the pulley

The flex plate thing is the 'flywheel' that the torque converter was nailed to (You dont actually need it but you might need the washers either side of it for getting a manual flywheel machined) Use it to lock the crank from moving if you are taking off the crank pulley.

Regarding that rear mount - we didnt use it aside from being a doorstop. Not sure on the equal length shafts tbph. To be on the safe side i would unbolt it rather than grind it off. If it wont budge, hammer a smaller socket on and use a breaker bar, or weld somthing to it and get it off that way.

Chris.

[briweekes]

I have the goodies now, am enjoying this bit:

http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/5024/dscf3098u.jpg

-Fidanza Flywheel
-Engine Mount
-Water Pump (Blueprint pressed impeller)
-New cam belt
-Stage 1 Turbo clutch pressure plate F1 brand from GripForce USA
-Stage 1 N/A clutch friction disc F1 brand from GripForce USA

Have new Camry exhaust Y section, tempted to change that to free flow Y and B pipe in stainless as advertised on here (bit pricey, could do later)

[briweekes]

http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/2345/dscf3102e.jpg

[briweekes]

more pics (shame I have to use that big lump- the intake plenium- as it messes up the nice look of the engine, there must be a better way!):

http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/138/dscf3108.jpg

[briweekes]

...and another pic

http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/5862/dscf3104.jpg

[briweekes]

MMMMmmm, No lump of lard on top of this beauty

http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/4522/todaracingv6gth32b.jpg

[snowtigger]

Have a look at limeys swop I think he has throttle body's it looks and sounds rather naughty.

[briweekes]

Have a look at limeys swop I think he has throttle body's it looks and sounds rather naughty.

I agree snowtigger- Limey's swap is brilliant!!

[briweekes]

A couple more pics here from today, of my 3VZ coming along nicely

http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/233/s3vz5thjunii.jpg

http://img810.imageshack.us/img810/9595/s3vz5thjun.jpg

[cdwood2010]

Now that is looking pretty!

Nice work!

Chris.

[briweekes]

Cheers Chris, next job is to get the crank pully bolt off. I prematurely removed the timing belt tensioner when the crank was not in the right position, then realised its not as easy as shoving it back in its hole and bolting up (didn't have a vice with jaws wide enough to get the pin back in the tensioner). Not sure whether to get the proper tool ($75 to $250 in ebay) or make one up, probably the latter as I'm hopin its something I only do once.

Its a lovely engine to work on, I'm used to using a large peice of wood to lever the alternator into position, that adjustment mechanism is great.

[briweekes]

Another pic for all you 3VZ lovers

http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/3962/seng6thjun.jpg

[cdwood2010]

Did you manage to crack the crank bolt ok then?

Chris.

[adamh]

looking nice and tasty, thats what we like mate a bit of love on the engine! is what its all about.

[briweekes]

looking nice and tasty, thats what we like mate a bit of love on the engine! is what its all about.

Yes 3VZ Lovers! hehe

Chris asked "Did you manage to crack the crank bolt ok then?"

Not tried yet Chris, been entertaining relatives today.

[briweekes]

Yes 3VZ Lovers! hehe

Chris asked "Did you manage to crack the crank bolt ok then?"



I bought an adjustable Ford Crank Pully holder, used my angle grinder to get the pins to fit the holes in the Camry crank pully, and got the breaker bar in the 1/2 drive socket BUT the pully holder is sooo damn flimsey, there's no way I'm going to get the required grunt on the crank pulley nut! Looks like I'll have to drill some angle iron and bolt it to the pully (or even an A frame)...surely it can't be this hard, LH thread to undo, correct? ;-)

Then will I need a puller tool to take the pulley off, presume I will (local motor factors here want €120 for just the puller- nutters- I only need it the once, its a crazy place in Ireland for car parts)- GOT ANY HOT TIPS?

[cdwood2010]

Yep, some people say it was easy to crack theirs, but we snapped everything we had trying to crack the bolt on Pats engine.

And yes it's a normal left hand thread.

Eventually we managed to do it by wedging a bar between two decent drill bits and bracing that against the floor, then using a wheel brace socket and 3ft bar we jumped on it until it finally gave.

The pulley came off with a couple of gentle taps....

Hth

Chris.


Sent from my spackytard 'spell it how you like" iPhone

[briweekes]

Yep, some people say it was easy to crack theirs, but we snapped everything we had trying to crack the bolt on Pats engine.

Sent from my spackytard 'spell it how you like" iPhone

Its such a bloody shame, quite keen to replace the water pump (dunno if its good or not- the engine is very low mileage- been sitting around unused, and that tends not to be good for pumps and the water-worx, have the Blueprint one ready to go in, but the cam belt is in mint condition....so there's an arguement to say leave well alone. I only have the wife to lend a hand, no group of mates about to help give some welly here in the sticks :-(

[cdwood2010]

Well, the best practice (and what everyone will tell you) is to do the head gaskets, belt and water pump while the engine is out.

Having said that, I changed the oil and the plugs on my 118k miles Camry engine. It was running fine and the belt looks new so bollocks to it said I, and lobbed it in the two.

We couldn't get the crank bolt cracked, and we tried while the engine was in the car and when it was out.

It's a gamble, but worst case scenario - you will have to get the engine back out and do all those jobs at some point....

Chris.

[hmmmmm]

I couldnt get it undone either, so i borrowed a van from work, put the V6 in the back (10 cilinder renault kangoo ftw) and drove to the nearest truck repair shop. They have crazy strong air tools :) I think there's was around 1500nm, no match for the bolt, came of in under a minute (still needed some hammering).

[briweekes]

I couldnt get it undone either, so i borrowed a van from work, put the V6 in the back (10 cilinder renault kangoo ftw) and drove to the nearest truck repair shop. They have crazy strong air tools :) I think there's was around 1500nm, no match for the bolt, came of in under a minute (still needed some hammering).

Bloody hell, that's amazing. Silly me though I could just release the tension on the belt, slide it to one side (as you would with the G-string of a lovely lady), then quickly slip the new pump in there. - Might keep the water pump and belt in the box then: Oh Crappodemonte

[cdwood2010]

Here's another idea to bounce around:-

Bolt the auto-flywheel thing back on the engine then weld an A frame onto it to hold it upright, then stick a 3ft bar on the crank nut and give it the beans.

It's all about levers and suchlike.

Anypoo, you get the idea though...

Chris.



Sent from <insert childishly stupid location>

[briweekes]

Been cleaning up the plenium, sanding for spraying, I kept going thru the grades of sandpaper and rubbing compound and got a nice shine, seems a shame to paint it now. Gonna have trouble getting through security at work, Biometric fingerprint ID will reject as I seem to have sanded off my fingerprint.

Now I need to work out what I'm going to do the the gubbins on the oher end of the plenium- talk of blanking plates and all that, for those vacuum flying saucer thingies, no idea what that's about, will have to investigate.

http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/4885/pleniumshinelowres.jpg

[cdwood2010]

Holy crap! You can actually see your reflection in it! Nice work!

The flying saucers? REMOVE and fit a blanking plate, same with the EGR pipe from the exhaust manifold to the chamber under that shiny plenum!

I have pics if you need.....

Chris.

[hmmmmm]

Nice work on the plenum! I know how much elbow grease that takes so hats off to you sir :)

You could ask AdamH about the EGR blanking plates, he just sold a couple dozen for a feq quid a piece, nicely coated too. Maybe he still has some?

[briweekes]

EGR and all that? thats new to me, will have to read up, with a cup of coffee in my hand, when I have a quiet moment later, I'm all for keeping it simple- cheers guys

[briweekes]

Holy crap! You can actually see your reflection in it! Nice work!

The flying saucers? REMOVE and fit a blanking plate, same with the EGR pipe from the exhaust manifold to the chamber under that shiny plenum!

I have pics if you need.....

Chris.

Ah, send me the link to those pics Chris, need to know what to remove, what's affected and all that (my tags I put on all the pipes, are falling off by the day, the engine looks like it has a rastaferian hairdo with all the gizards pipes and wires hanging out- am worried I'll not know what goes where)- thanks!

[briweekes]

Fidanza Flywheel on and torqued up this morn:

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/5264/img2011071700047.jpg

[cdwood2010]

Oops, forgot those EGR bypass pics! Sorry! Here they are! Let me know if you want a pattern as I have a set here ready for the next build!

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/214.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/215.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/216.jpg

[briweekes]

Don't recognise that last pic, I thought I had to plug the hole in the exhaust manifold where that sensor comes out (per my pic at the end of this thread http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?4872-Removing-EGR/page2 ???

I must be looking at the manifold on the oil filter side then, which has no pipe coming out (and I've not looked at that side coz its up against my bench) :-(

[cdwood2010]

Ooer!

Well we left those sensors in on both swaps, but that third pic is the bolt on the rear bank (under the plenum) where the metal pipe comes up to meet the EGR gubbins. I tried a couple of different ways to seal it, in the end a rather useless 2c / 1p coin did the job purrrfect! Or as i like to call it, BODGED!

On pats swap i removed the EGR chamber completely (the bit bolted to the underside of the plenum) as per the first pic, but on mine i couldnt be arsed removing the plenum again so i bolted the plate straight onto where that metal pipe for the rear exhaust manifold bots in. it will make perfect sense when you look at it.

AdamH may have some of these blanking sets left, but like i said if you want i can send you templates of my other set on graph paper etc.

Chris.

[briweekes]

Ooer!

AdamH may have some of these blanking sets left, but like i said if you want i can send you templates of my other set on graph paper etc.

Chris.

Thanks Chris, AdamH is sending me some blanking plates now, cheers man

[cdwood2010]

Aw yeah, were all bonding now folks!

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/217.jpg

[briweekes]

EGR gubbins gone, and yes, I likey- much cleaner looking, pics below

http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/6689/plenium.jpg

http://img804.imageshack.us/img804/7227/plenium2.jpg

Blanking plates on order, and just need to plug the hole and some of the unecessary vacuum tubes

[briweekes]

My wife thought I'd got her another timesaving piece of kitchen equipment ;-)

http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/4959/kitchenstuff.jpg

Welded up the EGR manifold plug ok:

http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/4576/egrmanifoldplug.jpg

Engine almost there:

http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/4696/eng782011b.jpg

[Paul Woods]

Just a quickie folks, i see people are still fitting the lower blanking plate, there's no need at all, it doesn't lead anywhere and you don't need a blanking plate for it.

This one arrowed is the one you can leave open...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v624/paddy1970/Woodsport%205/51955cbd-4d29-e008.jpg

[briweekes]

[QUOTE=Paul Woods;241477]Just a quickie folks, i see people are still fitting the lower blanking plate, there's no need at all, it doesn't lead anywhere and you don't need a blanking plate for it.

This one arrowed is the one you can leave open...

Good tip Paul, thanks a lot

[briweekes]

I'm about to remove the old 3SGE this week. Am keen to ensure I don't bugger up anything I need to keep, wiring, pipework etc and avoid ripping bolt heads off.

Anyone know of a great idiots guide to removing this lump, ready for the 3VZ-FE to go in? I've seen a couple, but they don't have that much detail.

[cdwood2010]

I have a link to one I found recently - think it's MR2OC, but I'm sure there must be one on here somewhere!

Chris.

[aussiemr2]

Dropping out the 3sge is pretty easy, i didnt use a guide and it was pretty intuitive, just disconnect every hose and wire you see, remove front and rear engine mounts and lower subframe, connect engine crane to engine and take up strain then remove both side engine mounts and drop engine
Theres a bit more to it than that but you get the idea

Btw Im from Ireland originally, the dodgy part up north :-)

[aussiemr2]

Oh and dont use too much force removing the heater hoses from the bulkhead pipes from hell connection, they are brass and squash easily :-(, lucky mine are leaking and are getting replaced with heater hose anyway

[briweekes]

EMS Powered Y and B downpipe arrived, and I must say i'm impressed. As the saying goes (and Guinness strapline) "good things come to those who wait", a happy ending after all:

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/5764/img2011082400089.jpg

Stock Camry downpipe compared:
http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/6179/img2011082400088.jpg

http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/3330/img2011082400095.jpg

I think they're almost caught up with back orders.

[cdwood2010]

That's not a stock camry

Here's the one from Pats Lexus ES300, the Cammy one is nearly identical....

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/08/228.jpg

[cdwood2010]

And are you selling your old one?

Chris.

[briweekes]

Yes, I will be selling the brand new Camry downpipes (and I paid over the odds for them last Sept): 200460647187 Exhaust Front Pipes TOYOTA CAMRY 3.0 1 £144.24 GBP £144.24 GBP Shipping £35.00 GBP ,Total: £179.24 GBP

Make me a sensible offer and pay the postage and they're yours ;-)

(BTW I'm in Ireland)

[briweekes]

new cambelt and waterpump on. Downpipes tried for size and seem ok

http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/654/img2011082500097.jpg

[briweekes]

http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/8775/img2011082500098.jpg

http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/3098/img2011082500100.jpg

[briweekes]

Its now up on my campervan levelling blocks at the front, using some neat axle stands from Lidl (or was it Aldi) and the rear suspension id off and everything disconnected from the engine and labelled. Looking forward to dropping that 3SGE Engine in the morning:

http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/4285/img2011082600105.jpg

[briweekes]

The block and tackle from the rafters didn't work, I was thinking the car would be a whole lot lighter without the engine and gearbox, but it still appears to weigh a ton.

http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/273/img2011082700109.jpg

I used the engine crane and made some L shaped brackets to bolt through to the chassis box section,

http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/2158/img2011082700110.jpg

Much easier, BUT my first attempt failed as one of the hooks used on the chain failed, and the car dropped a couple of feet back to the axle stands (thankfully the block and tackle broke its fall a bit).

the campervan levellers and chocks came in handy:

http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/862/img2011082700113.jpg

Here she comes;

http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/4999/img2011082700112.jpg

Here she is sitting on the trolley I made, ready to be wheeled out:

http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/233/img2011082700114.jpg

and out at last, next to its lovely replacement (which seems dwarfed by the old MR2 engine with gearbox):

http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/7633/img2011082700122.jpg

One MR2 MK 2 N/A engine fo sale, will proabbly sell the top bits to someone with a Ferrari rep that wants it:

http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/3185/img2011082700117.jpg

[cdwood2010]

Ouch!

Hope you didn't do any damage, more importantly glad you didn't suffer any injuries!

Like the 2nd plenum!

Chris.

[briweekes]

Ouch!

Hope you didn't do any damage, more importantly glad you didn't suffer any injuries!

Like the 2nd plenum!

Chris.

No damage, or injury thankfully. It all happened in slow motion and I knew there was nothing I could do, just wait for the crunch. Luckily it as just a gentle bump, the car was way up in the air at the time. the swaps i did many years ago were all outside, and on cars I needed to use to get to work on Monday morn, so this garage lark is a bit of luxury ;-)

The alternator on the Mr2 engine looks quite new, wonder if it'll fit the 3VZ-FE?

[cdwood2010]

Yeah, it's a bit easier when you can shut the door and carry on another day.

I remember years ago laid under a mini in the snow trying to fix the exhaust.

And no the alternator won't fit the 3VZ, but if you strip the ancillaries they will fetch a few pounds!

Chris.

[briweekes]

the old stainless silencer goes well with the downpipes:

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/3733/img2011082800125.jpg

http://img847.imageshack.us/img847/4118/img2011082800129.jpg

Any experts on MR2 exhausts know what brand of silencer I have? there's a plate welded to the box input pipe with some identification marks as below:

http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/5314/img2011082800135.jpg

[Goldy]

Looks like it might be a custom job, it's not like one i've seen before!

[briweekes]

Looks rather similar to a Magnex silencer

[Goldy]

I did think that, but when I checked the MK1 Magnex had similar tailpipes but the mk2 design was totally different.

[Aware]

XSTM3/O is a Magnex product code:

http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/helmet/84/id77.htm

Although it looks like the tailpipes have been modded...

[briweekes]

Great work there Aware, cheers. There's a chance it might sound like Foxxystoats then

[SlipSlide]

Good steady progress there Brian and the engine looks great, fair play to you.

[briweekes]

Good steady progress there Brian and the engine looks great, fair play to you.

Cheers SlipSlide! I've been chipping away, and have reached a good milestone now, can see some light at the end of the tunnel- all fun from now on (although I still listen to Foxxystoats video clip on an almost daily basis to get my fix from the Engine sound!). Its enjoyable and luxury to be working inside the garage, and not out in the pissing rain and wind like I did with my other swaps many years ago (and panicking because I had to get the car done by Monday so I could go to work in it as my only car).

[cdwood2010]

As much as I'm not a massive fan of body kits, I'm even less of a fan of cars with body kits where they made no attempt to make it actually sound like it's supposed to look.

Covin kit cars with Dub engines for example!

Now, the 3VZ with the right exhaust sounds about right for a Ferrari, and more importantly about 97% of the world would not be able to tell the difference!

Keep listening to those videos bri, it kept me and pat well focused when we did JapScrap!

Chris.

[briweekes]

Keep listening to those videos bri, it kept me and pat well focused when we did JapScrap!

Chris.

I'm addicted to those MR2 V6 vids and sound, to the point of almost being kinky about it (that's my OCD side perhaps) ;-)...with the force feedback headphones, my inner ear vibrates and makes me go all funny to the 3VZ, Lol

[snowtigger]

i had to watch my 2gr vid again and again while wallet rape was off the road, foxys vid is what got me into all this mess in the first place lol.

[briweekes]

i had to watch my 2gr vid again and again while wallet rape was off the road, foxys vid is what got me into all this mess in the first place lol.

Foxxy's vid I can listen to over and over, and I do. actually I have been comparing the exhaust note with the ferrari Testarossa, and its very very similar!

Being way out on the West Coast of Ireland can sometimes be like living in Outer Mongolia when it comes to getting car parts (incl many things people take for granted in the UK). As a result, I find myself getting about 80% of my parts online (the trouble with that is postal charges and the risk of getting the wrong part).

I was wondering if any of you helpful souls would be able to confirm exactly what parts I need to order from UK stockists (eg straights, elbow, couplings etc) for the top hoses, and heater hoses (plus a link to reasonable suppliers- PM me if its not appropriate to put such links in reply threads on here).

CAN ANYONE HELP! I NEED TO GET IT RIGHT FIRST TIME

[cdwood2010]

Brian, as always I can offer my perspective, but I didn't spend any money as we were initially proving it works and then too lazy to change them!

The bottom hose you can cut the original 90 degree elbow down and fit that, and it works quite well.

The top hose, we flipped the rubber pipe around from the original at the bottom, then cut the metal umbrella stick to run up the bulkhead and used the camry top hose to finish off.

The two heater pipes we used the original ones, but you could just get two lengths of heater hose.

I can provide pics and measurements of what we did if it's of any use?

Chris.

[briweekes]

I can provide pics and measurements of what we did if it's of any use?

Chris.

That would be great Chris, cheers, the more info I have the better!!

[dgh938peg]

i had to watch my 2gr vid again and again while wallet rape was off the road, foxys vid is what got me into all this mess in the first place lol.

I would hate to think how many v6-ers can lay the same blame on Wayne :D

In fact......
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?19141-I-Blame-Foxy-Stoat-for-my-addiction...%21&p=242510#post242510

:icon_biggrin:

[briweekes]

Cleaning up the engine bay this weekend, removing the gearbox off the MK2 NA engine and spraying up the bay and crossmember.

I bought some urethane inserts for my engine mounts and they seem to just push in, which is wierd because without bolting them up, yet, it looks like they could work loose. I've just found a vid online (which is actually quite funny) that informs idiots like me how to do it:
http://www.lovehorsepower.com/Videos/MR2/MotorMountInserts_NTSC.wmv

I cannot comment on whether these are any good, but will report back.

[snowtigger]

You realize there's different size engine mounts?

I think na ones are the same but turbo depends on revision as they were different sizes, 5 I think from 18 to 22 mm it could be you've got one a mm to small so it's flopping about like a sausage thrown up an entry.

[briweekes]

You realize there's different size engine mounts?.

Seems to be ok, after watchin that vid, should be good when bolted up. Unfortunately the front mount metal part looks brand new with the sticker on, but the rubber middle bit has totally broken free.

Am keen to stop wheel/suspension occuring when I pull away. Have wide Pirelli P zeros on the rear which have tons of grip. I've ordered a whiteline adjuatable rear AR bar, and uprated drop links, last year I replaced all sussie bushed with Urethane. Uprated top mounts are also on order..

[snowtigger]

You could always fit an engine steady/shockabsorber like I have on walletrape my engines rock solid.

[cdwood2010]

Bri,

That front mount drops to bits when you remove it.

Anything more solid than that will be an improvement!

The poly mounts should be a snug fit into the old metal brackets though - the front and rear are different sizes!

Got any photos?

Chris.

[briweekes]

You could always fit an engine steady/shockabsorber like I have on walletrape my engines rock solid.

Yeah, I think I will fit an Engine steady shock absorber, near the top. My EMS Powered downpipe does not attach to the crossmember like the stock MR2 NA downpipe, so all the force will be on the rear exhaust brackets, so keeping the Engine stable is best (I don;t mind feeling vibes through the chassis)- pics of your shocker would be handy snowtigger.

Check the Lovehorsepower vid clip above to see how those Urethane inserts work

[cdwood2010]

Here's what we did with Pats, and mine was very similar....

Flipped the rubber pipe around. And sent it up the bulkhead by the oil filter:-

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/09/10.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/09/11.jpg

Chopped the original MR2 elbow down to fit the bottom pipe:-

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/09/12.jpg

Used the metal umbrella stick from the bulkhead and cut the U bend off to send it around the back of the cam cover, and fitted it up with the old Cammy top hose cut to suit:-

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/09/13.jpg

Now as I said this was intended to be a temp bodge, but it worked so well we left it.

At some point we might replace it, probably over winter if and when the cars get parked up.

Chris.

[briweekes]

Top info Chris, thanks for sharing!

[briweekes]

Good weekend's work. Engine bay prepped and sprayed, gearbox removed from the MR2 NA engine, degreased and about half done cleaning up.

http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/1308/lrgt.jpg

http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/663/ok2j.jpg

http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/4108/95008854.jpg

[aussiemr2]

Hi Brian

I cannot post in wanted but i noticed you where after a trd oil cap, i found a generic spring type on ebay and its fit is quite good, but i wanted a real trd one and put the ebay one on my camry, both should be available if you search

[briweekes]

Hi AussieMR2, I've spent ages looking on the net, incl eBay and cannot seem to find even an imitation TRD. They all seem to be the screw type. I want to replace the black plastic one I have, with a polished alloy type. Please PM with the link or add it here (if yours is spring type and polished alloy, drop me a pic and let me know how much $$

Cheers!

Brian

[aussiemr2]

You know what, you are right I cannot find any either, I bought my oil cap and radiator cap from these guys only 2 months ago maybe worth sending them a message

http://stores.ebay.com.au/japextradingltd

sorry i really dont want to sell my copy it looks pretty good on the cammry :-)

[briweekes]

[QUOTE=aussiemr2;242649]You know what, you are right I cannot find any either, I bought my oil cap and radiator cap from these guys only 2 months ago maybe worth sending them a message
QUOTE]

Done, will see how I get on, cheers

[briweekes]

Bri,

That front mount drops to bits when you remove it.The poly mounts should be a snug fit into the old metal brackets though - the front and rear are different sizes! Got any photos?

Chris.

Oh crap holes, I just received my new front engine mount and the rubber guts are a different shape to the kikosaurus Urethane inserts, so they ain't gonna go in :-(

http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/6493/newmountinserts.jpg

[cdwood2010]

Ah, now aside from being different sizes, when you fit the inserts you might need to remove the steel ring from the old insert.

It's like a steel collar that holds the rubber together. I seem to recall that you cut the insert then chisel it out.

That photo - the insert looks different but if it fits the metal mount it's a win.

Hth

Chris.

[cdwood2010]

Oh hang on, that is the new mount!

Where did you get that from?

Chris.

[briweekes]

Oh hang on, that is the new mount!

Where did you get that from?

Chris.

I got it from here, coz the old one dropped its guts :-(

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-VOLLIG-TOYOTA-MR2-ENGINE-MOUNT-FRONT-1991-1995-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem415d3b89d4QQitemZ28073 7057236QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries

[briweekes]

The kirkosaurus guy contacted me today to say he has inserts for this type of rubber shape too, and will send me a set, so that's a relief..

The rubber in there definately needs beefing up, that front mount takes all the grunt pulling away

[briweekes]

Some more pics, rubber pipes on order, so nothing more to buy (I hope):

Went for gold with the sump:

http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/4860/enfgsgsump.jpg

Cleaned and resprayed the engine bay. For the heat barrier, used Reflect-A-Gold:

http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/1753/baywithreflectagold.jpg

Cleaned and re-sprayed the crossmember, treated it to the uprated Whiteline adjustable AR bar and sexy whiteline adjustable drop-links. TRD uprated rear top mounts in their bag there too:

http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/5962/whitelinesarbartierod.jpg

,,,,everything is squeeky clean now, so I have to wash my hands before I get stuck in ;-)

[aussiemr2]

looking good, and I thought I was anal

How conformal is the reflect a coat, does it stretch ok over the heatshield nooks and crannies

[cdwood2010]

Really nice work, but quite alien to me.

My engine / bay was dirtier after the swap than when we started.

:)

Chris.



If it doesn't exist you have to invent it....

[briweekes]

looking good, and I thought I was anal

How conformal is the reflect a coat, does it stretch ok over the heatshield nooks and crannies

The reflect-a-gold is not very co-operative shaping into curves, and calls for some cutting, like wrapping a christmas prezzie. Its good at reflecting back heat, but for real heat insulation, mixed density board and some air pockets work better,

[briweekes]

[QUOTE=cdwood2010;242997]Really nice work, but quite alien to me.

My engine / bay was dirtier after the swap than when we started.

QUOTE]

Try washing your hands first Chris, Lol

[dgh938peg]

Gold is good Brian.... :)

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/09/123.jpg

[cdwood2010]

Try washing your hands first Chris, Lol

I think the real problem is that we get on a roll and cant be arsed cleaning anything! Too excited to be getting it running!

Having seen Lee's near mint 2GR this weekend with an engine bay you could eat off, I am getting inspired to actually put some effort in with The Black!

Chris.

[briweekes]

[QUOTE=dgh938peg;243034]Gold is good Brian.... :)

QUOTE]

Ah, I see you are maximising every little piece of that gold, like me (I have it under my engine cover)- it ain't cheap

[Paul Woods]

Just catching up with this build now, superb work Brian, love the attention to detail, only one slight comment, you're over-bushing your engine mate, it will vibrate through the chassis at idle with both torque mounts beefed, not by a lot but noticeable.

We just uprate the front mount which gives a nice balance between holding the engine still and no vibration.

[cdwood2010]

Hi Bri,

Where did you get those inserts from to sub the front mount?

When I refitted the gearbox I put the standard front mount back in and it's now annoying me!

Chris.

[dgh938peg]

Hi Bri,

Where did you get those inserts from to sub the front mount?

When I refitted the gearbox I put the standard front mount back in and it's now annoying me!

Chris.

Here you go chris!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=mr2+powerflex+engine&_sacat=0&_dmpt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&_odkw=mr2+powerflex&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313

The powerflex ones i feel are "milder" than the red ones... I remember Poohbear drilling his red ones out to dampen the vibration a bit...

[cdwood2010]

Thanks Bri!

Yeah, we fitted yellow ones to Pats and I drilled out the front one to try make it a bit kinder.

To be honest the car drives fine, so I guess it works!

Thanks for the link, will have a look now!

Chris.

[briweekes]

Just catching up with this build now, superb work Brian, love the attention to detail, only one slight comment, you're over-bushing your engine mate, it will vibrate through the chassis at idle with both torque mounts beefed, not by a lot but noticeable.

Cheers Paul!

I'm used to driving cars on my GTR2 with the Buttkicker-gamer on max, and I want to feel and hear the engine, I'm fitting a vent which I can close, between the bulkhead and engine bay, so I can hear the beautiful 3VZ V6 which I am totally hooked on, I don't want to have a whisper quiet idling, even though its luxurious for an Mr2, vibes and sound, yes please! As these are inserts, I can easily remove them 9i might end up with them liike you suggest. Just the front one beefed). I'm a bit cautious about the lovely downpipes cracking if I allow too much engine movement.

I was going to fit a top torque damper, but can't see anywhere decent to bolt it to on the chassis. Will probably leave it.

[snowtigger]

i wouldnt vent the engine bay into the cabin as thats a serious carbon monoxide risk last thing you want is to snuff it while driving, ok i maybe uber cautious but i dont think its a good idea.

[briweekes]

i wouldnt vent the engine bay into the cabin as thats a serious carbon monoxide risk last thing you want is to snuff it while driving, ok i maybe uber cautious but i dont think its a good idea.

You have a point, nothing that a couple of paper filters can't sort, and the bulkhead is way forward of the tailpipes, I can also shut those vents

[cdwood2010]

Hey Bri,

How goes, any updates?

Me.

[briweekes]

Hey Chris, I'm just getting back into the routine after some extensive business travel, I've been away for the last 4 weekends. Finalising a few bits, and have the first week of Nov to plop it in there. Just a few nice little jobs to do, which I'm looking forward to:

-refit Fidanza flywheel with the strongest threadlock on the bolts
-Permanetely fit intake plenium, and seal all the bits and bobs (eg EGR blanking plates)
-Fit braided hose and finishing clamps
-replace split gaitor on driveshaft
-fit stage 1 clutch asssembly
-fit gearbox
-fit remaning vac hoses and the blanking vacuum caps I got from the USA

I should be good to fit the Engine back in the car then, can't wait!!

What are you up to?

[cdwood2010]

Hi Bri!

I know what you mean - i too have been busy!

BBQ is sold i think - guy coming Saturday to see and hopefully drive home
Canoe back in the garage so thats the current focus
Changing jobs in a couple of weeks
Subaru will have to go fairly soon
Mondeo estate as a company car
Cat finally went to the vets one last time so now i have to build a bar in the dining room (long story!)

Other than that i have been having lots of fun hoofing around in what could be my last few days of ownership of a V6 for a while. The plan is to start on The Black next, but i still have to decide / find a donor car or engine. I went to see Lee (UgLee) and am a bit smitten with the 2GR......

In the meantime i keep distracting myself with other cars - i might have to buy / sell a few to restock the kitty ready for moving forward!

Chris.

[briweekes]

Grief replacing inner driveshaft boot. As easy as putting a condom on, "my arse". This one is now split :-(

http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/3747/dscf0305x.jpg

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/1689/dscf0304c.jpg

http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/743/dscf0303m.jpg

There's no way that small end of the boot is going to expand over the large cone neck (& I followed the instructions to the letter- Universal stretch boot kit JRBKUVO03 from www.jandrcvjoints.co.uk). Wonder if its easier to dismantle the CV and fit in the conventional way.

Can any of you experts out there give me some good advice??

[briweekes]

by the way, it was lubed up properly (the pics don't show it) and soaked in boiling water for 25 mins, replacing the water with fresh boiled every 54 mins..

[Paul Woods]

Brian, those universal stretch boots are utter shite mate, the only way is to use the correct boots and dismantle the driveshaft in the normal way.

[briweekes]

Brian, those universal stretch boots are utter shite mate, the only way is to use the correct boots and dismantle the driveshaft in the normal way.

Shame, the principal is sound. Looks like I'm going to have to do as you suggest Paul.

I find JDM condoms a tight fit, but that driveshaft boot takes the biscuit

[briweekes]

Anyone recognise this inner CV joint of mine? doesn't appear in my MR2 MK2 workshop manual:

http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/1255/3sgelhinboardcv.jpg

Need to strip that down, but not sure where to start, I bet its easy, but am not sure where to start.

[SlipSlide]

Have a look at this video Brian, from about 2:36


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o8iZpjPG4xM

I was doing it on an old corrolla a couple of weeks ago., same theory with yours just don't be afraid to hit it damn hard on the first go.

Mine was not so easy as the inner clip got caught in its lip and then my energy went into driving the clip into the spline. Of course there is only one option left at that stage and that was cutting up the outer CV joint with a cutting disc:MK9523tn:, that is the route you don't want to take.

[briweekes]

Have a look at this video Brian, from about 2:36

Haha cool, never thought of coloured VC boots, there' an idea. Cheers for that

[dgh938peg]

I've seen an old mate fit a stretch boot once .... and that took him 2 attempts. He had a coney thing like you that went over the shaft. Then he put the boot in a bowl of boiling water for a couple of minutes. Then with a quick yank pulled it over in less than a second. Like i say though, two attempts....

[pilotpete]

Here's another idea - buy another set of those universal boots,get it all set up,then call a local 'Prozzy' round - she will have it on, one handed, before you know it !!!

[briweekes]

Here's another idea - buy another set of those universal boots,get it all set up,then call a local 'Prozzy' round - she will have it on, one handed, before you know it !!!

Nice one Pete, now that's what I call thinking outside the box, getting a real pro to help, but the problem with that is:

1/ The missus might hit me over the head with a rolling pin afterwards
2/ It doesn't say on the packet if the boot is electronically tested
3/ It might be expensive??
4/ She'll remove it after its filled with grease and chuck it in the pedal bin, and off to the next punter, and I'll be back to square one

[briweekes]

QUESTION-

Is a the 3VZ-FE water filler pressure cap on the engine, the same thing and part as a Camry radiator cap (mine is a '92)?

Cheers

[mrT]

QUESTION-

Is a the 3VZ-FE water filler pressure cap on the engine, the same thing and part as a Camry radiator cap (mine is a '92)?

Cheers

I would think it is the same thing, just worded different ..
One thing I realised after a bit of head scratching , the radiator cap from the mr2 does fit the 3vzfe water filler but its rated at 0.9 bar and the camry original one is 1.0 bar.. also if u look at both side by side, the rubber stop on my mr2 one looked slightly smaller ..

Originally I fit thr mr2 one to my car as it looked newer out the 2. But found that coolant kept being pushed out into the expansion tank ... Replaced with the original camry radiator cap and all is good.. not seen any coolant escape since..

[pilotpete]

Brian, I believe that Paul replaces all the caps on the V6 conversions he does with the 'Blitz' ones. The standard ones have been known to fail - as mine did when I had the 3vz. Gotta be worth a few extra pennies.

[briweekes]

Brian, I believe that Paul replaces all the caps on the V6 conversions he does with the 'Blitz' ones. The standard ones have been known to fail - as mine did when I had the 3vz. Gotta be worth a few extra pennies.

As it happens, I ordered a TRD 1.3 bar cap yesterday, which should do the job

[briweekes]

Brilliant! have just looked at Lee's swap thread, and saw the AC condenser rad being put in front of the lovely Alloy PWR Rad.

Until now, I thought a prev owner of mine had put a new rad on, and left the old one on! Great new is that I've not fitted the AC pumop on my 3VZ-FE, so I can remove that AC condenser radiator thingy and get better air flow through the MR2 rad- excellente!

Thank you Lee

[briweekes]

Messing around with braided hoses this evening, looks nice. Am cheating a bit, by using hose finishers incorporating jubilee clips. The 3VZ-FE doesn't have that many hoses, its the tons of wiring that need to look smart- will attend to that once its in and running I think.

[briweekes]

Last few engine pics before it goes in- hope I am not boring you, my wife is nagging me to stop messing with the duster and get on with it, so here you are, the first should take you to a slideshow:

Imageshack slideshow click on this *** (http://img411.imageshack.us/slideshow/webplayer.php?id=dscf0028s.jpg)

for example:

http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/3600/dscf0021gr.jpg

[briweekes]

Put the V6 into the car today, I took my time and it went like clockwork:

http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/287/clare2011110100227.jpg

Only a couple of small issues, which I can sort;

1/ The gear cables are took close to the exhaust downpipe/manifold join for my liking, will have to do something about that

http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/8840/clare2011110100232.jpg

2/ The top bolt hole on the Fourveesix engine mount is way off, although I've not tightened the large bolt that goes through the bush yet. I might weld a piece onto the top triangle, so I can get it to fit:

http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/1129/clare2011110100230.jpg

I did a trial fit of the EMS Y and B pipe, seems fine, apart from the AR bar clearance:

http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/3227/clare2011110100233.jpg

http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/1959/clare2011110100234.jpg

http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/2896/clare2011110100235.jpg

The B pipe seems too close to the rear AR bar, fouling it actually- there's a chance i might have fitted the whiteline AR bar upside down, but can't seem to find any pics of what it should look like. Hopefully no panic, there and its just me being stupid.

The bundle of wires looks daunting. Tomorrow I'm going to torque the mount bolts down properly and use threadlock, fill with engine and gearbox with oil, fit the water pipes and fill with coolant, and then with reference to Paul's wiring guide, make a good start at that.

[dgh938peg]

The mount misalignment is a common thing.

One thing i'd try first is slackening off the bolts to all mounts then try to get the top bolts in .. if that doesn't work step-2..

If you remove the torque mounts then you can fully bolt up the engine mounts - then re-bolt the torque mount. You put about 4mm of lateral misalignment on the mount

As for the AR bar clearance - i have a similar problem on mine. but then i am 3" rather than 2.5" It's a bloody difficult bit of pipework to make - but still, it should be right. Baktasht is a pretty amiable guy to deal with :)

[aussiemr2]

I just got my engine in at the weekend and have the same issue with the shifter cable, what do people normally do?
Also what did you end up using for coolant hoses?

[briweekes]

Interesting to hear you have the same problem with the cable aussiemr2, lets see what people on here can suggest.

I purchased some flexible reinforced rubber pipe (convoluted outside, smooth inner) for the main coolant hoses, this is what I purchased online from a UK supplier: http://www.apmotorstore.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=01-02124&x=6&y=1

Should do the job, Looks like I might be able to use the existing hose, but cut a lot shorter, for the tiny piece required for the bottom hose.

[briweekes]

I've just found the thead on here called "Help, gear linkage touching manifold", no drama, but you should read. This forum is bloody handy or what: http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?18558-Help!-Gear-linkage-touching-manifold&highlight=gear+cable+manifold

[aussiemr2]

So the gear linkage isnt a problem then it seems

I used the original top hose of the 3sge and am hoping I can find another hose close enough in shape to connect onto it coming up across the heatshield and down to the passenger side line, I am retaining the aircon so am a little bit limited as to where I can bring it up

[briweekes]

So the gear linkage isnt a problem then it seems

I used the original top hose of the 3sge and am hoping I can find another hose close enough in shape to connect onto it coming up across the heatshield and down to the passenger side line, I am retaining the aircon so am a little bit limited as to where I can bring it up

no aircon required here in Ireland, guess its essential for you aussiemr2. That hose I bought bends nicely without collapsing, there's a lot of chat about what people have used for that long bit, here on Twobrutal.

My good news is I had indeed fitted the AR bar upside down, the EMS B pipe fits a treat now.

[aussiemr2]

no aircon required here in Ireland, guess its essential for you aussiemr2. That hose I bought bends nicely without collapsing, there's a lot of chat about what people have used for that long bit, here on Twobrutal.

My good news is I had indeed fitted the AR bar upside down, the EMS B pipe fits a treat now.

That is good news, I was nearly ordering one of the ems down pipes but decided I will get it fabbed up here instead, after the drama you had I was sort of glad

I should really post up some pics of my progress and see what I can come up with for the long coolant pipe

[briweekes]

I had to convince myself the cooling system pipework is going on correctly, so created this diagram. Am not sure if it matters which way the water goes to and from the heater, so havn't included that bit:

http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/3435/2cooling.jpg

[briweekes]

...or did I get this wrong?

I've seen pics of peope taking the bottom hose (inlet) on the 3VZ and routing to the pipe that takes it to the top of the radiator..

[mrT]

if u sit in the engine bay and look at the hoses, the one on the right hand side goes to the bottom of the 3vzfe, (basically where the thrmostat is) and the hose on the left that originally went to your 3s filler cap, you now have to route to the right and connect to the top of the engine,..
kinda like so..
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/08/267.jpg

[Paul Woods]

Although MrT's way is the way we all do them the Mr2 cooling system will work perfectly well in either direction without a problem.

[mrT]

Although MrT's way is the way we all do them the Mr2 cooling system will work perfectly well in either direction without a problem.

I always thought in theory it should work either way round, thanx for clearing it up Paul ..

[briweekes]

if u sit in the engine bay and look at the hoses, the one on the right hand side goes to the bottom of the 3vzfe, (basically where the thrmostat is) and the hose on the left that originally went to your 3s filler cap, you now have to route to the right and connect to the top of the engine,..

Very good, and nice to have Paul's comment as well. Thanks guys. I did exactly the same bottom hose arrangement as the above pic, using the old MR2 water pipe (useful as that's a very tight bend. I like the idea in that pic, of using the old mr2 metal pipe, I gues you cut off the snorkel bendy bit, but that would have meant only one barb, does it hold the water pressure ok with just clip there, or two clips at that spot Mr T??

[mrT]

I used 2 jubilee clips,on each end of both coolant pipes..didn't want to take any chances..lol.. haven't driven hard yet. But seems to hold coolant fine, and have done a couple of blats upto 4500 rpm .. hasn't blown of yet..

[briweekes]

The good news:
-Water pipes fitted (had to saw off the useless piece of metal that hangs down off the front engine mount, to allow the long pipe to sit nicely. I hate hacksawing upside down)
- Filled system with red coolant
- exhaust fitted
-left hand shaft, hub and suspension fitted
- pleased I didn't splash out on the lovely looking TRD rear full cross brace (I was close to ordering). My existing single brace bar wont go on, as it is hard against the V6 intake plenium, so will flog that polished one.

todays challenges:
- jubilee clips with holes instead of grooves were crap, the old spring clips were not large enough.
- took heaps longer to fit just one driveshaft, than I imagined. Had to make props from wood, as I'm on my own here, modifying axel stands to hold stuff.
- slow drip of coolant, traced to a bracket on one of the metal heater pipes behind the fuel tank,

http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/5999/heaterpipeleak.jpg

Looks like a lot of grief to fix that (presumably acquire replacement pipe or weld it somehow, strip the AC pipes, remove the petrol tank, remove pipe, fit new pipe!!! bugger:-). What a pain in the butt-
any tips from you guys??

...alternatively I could:
a) forget the heating, bypass it (will do so I can get the engine running without losing coolant)
b) run rubber pipe all the way down the car, alongside the duff metal pipe
c) use radiator stop leak, of crack a few eggs into the coolant- no thanks

- Despite what I said earlier, I've had to go to a stainless welder to modify the EMS Y pipe (11cm extension), which P'd me off no end- ETA for that: ten days time :-(

Am 2 days behind schedule with my swap plans for my week off work, now realise its going to take a few more weeks than just a couple of days. I'd imagined it to be a breeze, and under estimated the work required (my other engine swaps from years ago were weekend jobs). live and learn, I guess

[mrT]

that looks like the pipe from hell,
Paul usually cuts that part out , and replaces with rubber pipe...
luckily the same pipe on my car was in good order so i didnt have to do anything, but most of the project posts Paul has posted mention this same pipe..

[briweekes]

that looks like the pipe from hell,

Oh no, looks like you're right mrT. Strange it never leaked before, must be the pressure change when the system was drained, certainly looks corroded on the outside. I now have my hole on the rear bulkhead to keep me warm, instead of the heater!

http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/2599/livev6sound.jpg

[mrT]

Mate, look at it this way , u only gotta do this job once, and u rather do it now than once engine is in and wired up.. I checked mine when engine was out, and whilst I dropped the fuel tank to replace the pump..

[aussiemr2]

My pipes where also leaking but luckily I noticed it when I dropped the fuel tank to change the pump
I ran rubber lines along the same route as original brass ones

[aussiemr2]

Hi Brian the extension to the b pipe wouldn't be because you don't have a cat would it?
I noticed Ems had tha cat as an option

Also re the trd strut brace I have one and it's Gonna work no matter what :-)
Mr2big has one on his 1mz and he got spacer nuts made up to raise it a bit

[briweekes]

Hi Brian the extension to the b pipe wouldn't be because you don't have a cat would it?
I noticed Ems had tha cat as an option

Also re the trd strut brace I have one and it's Gonna work no matter what :-)
Mr2big has one on his 1mz and he got spacer nuts made up to raise it a bit

You're correct, i don't have a cat, however I got the non-cat B pipe and expected it to replace my existing non-cat pipe all the way to the U bend part of my Magnex box. My expectations were for some fabrication, shame though.

I've seen people fit the single brace bars the other way round, switch the top mount brackets, so the bar ends up being furtyer back in the bay, will try that. The full TRD Brace (which I don't have) could be more challenging it if fouls the plenium though, but there are pics of folks with them on their V6 swaps on Twobrutal, so it must be do-able.

I should be done with my wiring by noon today, if I get the fuel pipe on, I'll have my first stab at starting the V6, very exciting (I'm anticipating a challenge with the immobiliser, and the Camry had a bypass on the COR- lets see).

[briweekes]

stuck on page 26 of Idiots guide- urgent request for help
Can't seem to find the G/W wire (dash clocks check engine light) referred to in the guide in my 3S-GE fusebox, could do with a plug diagram pointing it out.Any ideas?

(P25 of the guide seems incorrect regarding the check engine light wire on the V6 4th ECU plug, its pin 4, not pin 5 on my 92 3VZ-FE)

Thanks in advance

[mrT]

Aaah..
I had a bit of stuckage on that one too.. and indeed Paul has posted in the past that he made a mistake on that particular wire in the guide,
It is indeed the the 4th wire not the 5th on the camry wire..
And I also had trouble working out which wire went to the CEL light.. so this is how I worked it out..

Take all dash trim out and pull out the clocks..
Turn them round and find the CEL in the cluster.. remove the bulb , you should see 2 copper circuit tracks either side of the bulb holder.
Take your multimeter/ tester to hand and set it to beep/read shorts, connect 1 probe to the car chassis and the other probe use it to touch either side of the CEL bulb holder on the copper tracks ..
The meter will beep on connection to one side, that's the negative identified, so the other side is the signal feed..
Now either yourself or get an assistant, I used my kid bro to attach 1 meter probe to your identified signal track.
Take the other probe round to the boot, might have to stretch the wire over the car to reach..
And one at a time touch it against all the unconnected wires u have , and at some point the meter will beep, that's your wire..
Connect it to the wire u have identified as the CEL wire on camry loom and all should be well..


Edit to add..
I used same technique to identify some of the other connections that go to the clocks too

[briweekes]

Wow, more involved than I thought. Is this one I can skip for just getting the V6 started, then wire up later??

I've found the "W" warning light wire on the old MR2 ECU plug (its one of the green and white wires), thanks to this link http://mr2.com/forums/non-turbo-engine-talk-modifications-swaps/Toyota-MR2-46269-1991-na-1993-turbo-wiring.html but don't appear to have continuity to any of the wires coming out of the plugs in the fusebox.

Errrr

[mrT]

Took me bout 10 mins to sort, admittedly I can get my dash apart quite quick..
You could perhaps miss it for now..but don't hold me to it..
I presume the only effect will be no check engine light..

Personally for the sake of another 10 or 20 minutes I would sort it out. But choice is yours

[briweekes]

Paul just chipped in, the G/W wire is where I suspected, on the old MR2 ECU plug, happy days (handy having my laptop sitting on the engine doing this wiring):


It's not in the fuse box, it's on the old ecu 22 pin plug in the boot, pin 5

[briweekes]

Ah, looks like I still have to do a continuity test with the yellow wire in the MR2 fusebox (I have a choice of 3) back to the dash after all, this time per Paul's P38 of the idiots guide. Will save for later.

[mrT]

Yes I think u have to remove the dash for checking a few connections anyway, so I just checked the CEL while it was out just to make sure.. mine worked out 1st time.
The only 2 connections I had issues with was oil level light from the sump and the speedo wire, had to trace the sump level wire into the boot loom and run it into the engine bay, and connected to fuse box , the speedo wire I had to utilise the original connector from the mr2 loom and wire it to appropriate connections separately..

[briweekes]

stupid question 1- should I bolt up the camry coil pack in replacement for the MR2 NA one???

[mrT]

stupid question 1- should I bolt up the camry coil pack in replacement for the MR2 NA one???

yes you will need to use the camry one, the mr2 item is now redundant, you might have to bend the bracket or play around with mounting locations.. I attached mine to the N/s strut where the original vac canister was, and moved the cannister lower down..

[briweekes]

Got the fuel line connected, just had to lift the fuel filter a bit higher on its flexi pipe. retun fuel line connected using a peice of metal fuel pipe with barbs off the old 3S-GE. Observations on first start attempt:

-Good fuel pressure
-Starter motor engaging well
-Power steering pump is whirring away loudly up front, with no sign of stopping
-Engine is not firing up, I'd guess no spark, but it could be host of other things

Am going to call it a day and continue after work during the week

[mrT]

My power steering pump starts humming straight away, and if I don't start the car then it stops buzzing after about a minute or so..

[briweekes]

Ah, I don't appear to have a spark, sounds basic. Looks like I've earthed all I need to.

The old Camry battery terminals are looking at me in, lost in the corner of the bay (insulated with a rubber glove each)- must get a grip.

- I'm getting battery +power at ECU pinout E2,
- have fixed a good earth on one of the bolts holding the K&N adapter to the end of the ACIS
- The bolt near the cold start injector is earthed

Where would you start?

[briweekes]

Power gets to the white/red wires on the V6 loom, joined to the black/red main relay output wires in the MR2 fusebox.

Looking at the Coil pack, there are three plugs underneath, plus the lead which goes to the middle of the distributor. I can see a white/red wire going into the back of the three plugs, however the one that goes into the smaller black plug on the coil does not seem to have power when the ignition is switched on, that would seem odd to me- can someone tell me if this is right please?

Appreciate any help you guys can give me on this, I reckon I'm tantalisingly close to starting this baby.

[dgh938peg]

Are you using the camry ignitor too?

[briweekes]

Are you using the camry ignitor too?

Yes indeed, I was referring to the Camry coil pack and igniter, all on its metal bracket and now bolted to my MR2 strut tower and earthed

[mrT]

I would have to check against my car to confirm if that wire gets a voltage or not,
The best way to figure out where u may have gone wrong or missed something. Is go back to the beginning of the wiring guide and double check each connection, make sure they are correctly wired in..
Also might I suggest checking the wires to the starter, I found the main wire to the starter in my case was not in the boot part of the camry loom, I found it in the engine bay next to the 2 redundant fuses in the camry loom..
Also the 2 live nd negative terminals from the camry wiring u mention,
Cut the positive one out and insulate it, and ground the negative to the gearbox..
U did mention u have plenty earth connected but didn't say if u have grounded the gearbox or not..
While u at it, make sure that all the earths are connected , Toyota engines are funny buggers, if they even miss one earth they can.behave funny..
Oh and also worth checking the connector that plugs into the air flow meter. That could be loose and stopping car from starting..
I left mine loose once, and forgot it, drove the car, and it came adrift. Car died and wouldn't start. Would crank over but not fire up.. popped bonnet and spotted the afm connector. Plugged it back in and turned key, car fired up straight away..

[briweekes]

Thanks, appreciate that MrT.

Here's a pic of where that smaller black plug goes, in which I would like to know if the white/red wire is powered up when the ignition is switched on (as mine has no power on that wire):

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/5518/coiln.jpg

I wish the circuit diagrams in the 3VZ-FE manual showed the wire colour coding, would be a great help (or am I missing something?):

http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/8484/ignitioncircuit.jpg

I went back through the idiots guide, also referred to my notes where I was not 200% sure if I'd picked the right wire, and in cases where the notes could be interpreted a few ways by numbskulls like me.

Yep, gearbox is earthed. Know what you mean about the earths on the loom, there are lots, and some seem to go round in circles, all attached now. Checked the AFM plug too. The only thing I can see that's not hooked up is the too vac cables that go to the canister.

[cdwood2010]

Just a thought....

If you plop the coil HT lead on the engine somewhere does it arc?

If it does, would that point to the dizzy?

If it doesn't then it points back to the coil not being powered correctly I'm guessing...

Shame we're not nearer, I would bring everyone up for a beer, pizza and 'first run video' party because it's annoying close!!!

Rotor arm? Dizzy turning? Dizzy cap not dropped it's centre electrode?

:/

Chris.

[briweekes]

Just a thought....

If you plop the coil HT lead on the engine somewhere does it arc?

If it does, would that point to the dizzy?

If it doesn't then it points back to the coil not being powered correctly I'm guessing...

Shame we're not nearer, I would bring everyone up for a beer, pizza and 'first run video' party because it's annoying close!!!

Rotor arm? Dizzy turning? Dizzy cap not dropped it's centre electrode?

:/

Chris.

It doesn't arc from the HT lead, also connected up 12v light to the plug lead and chassis and illumination

[mrT]

Is the distributor timing set right. Is rotor ARM should be pointing at approx 1 o'clock , when piston 1 is at tdc, look at the back of the distributor cap, and where lead no 1 comes off is the same direction the ARM should be..
Also are u using new dizzy cap rotor ARM leads etc or old stuff..

[briweekes]

Is the distributor timing set right. Is rotor ARM should be pointing at approx 1 o'clock , when piston 1 is at tdc, look at the back of the distributor cap, and where lead no 1 comes off is the same direction the ARM should be..
Also are u using new dizzy cap rotor ARM leads etc or old stuff..

Distributor timing is spot on. Am using new magnecore leads.

If someone could pop an electrical tester screwdriver/pointer to the white/red wire going into that small plug in the diagram above, on their MR2 V6 conversion, and tell me if it lights up when the ignition is switched on, I'd really appreciate it- then I'll know for sure that's where the problem lies.

Cheers

B

[mrT]

will try and check for you , gotta go and start the car tomorrow.. will report back

[cdwood2010]

I would if I had a V6!

:(

Chris.

[mrT]

When ignition is of the white/red wire has nothing , but when u turn ignition on u get voltage on it, if yours is missing voltage then that is the wire u need to trace..

[briweekes]

When ignition is of the white/red wire has nothing , but when u turn ignition on u get voltage on it, if yours is missing voltage then that is the wire u need to trace..

Top man MrT, thanks a million, you've confirmed that looks like is where my fault is (yes I am missing voltage), very handy indeed!

Watch this space!

[pilotpete]

1st fire up vid looming, me thinks !!

[mrT]

1st fire up vid looming, me thinks !!
not only fire up vid, we wanna see a driveby too...lol

[SlipSlide]

Good stuff Brian, your getting there, can't wait for the video.

[cdwood2010]

Come on brian you're milking this mate!!!

Chris.

[briweekes]

Sods law, I've been chomping at the bit for the last 24 hrs, back from a business trip, household chores and the wife's birthday. Am heading for the garage now!

[briweekes]

Come on brian you're milking this mate!!!

Chris.

Yeah, this is like the XFactor when they drag it out too long, I know.

........So, I traced that white/red coil pack wire back to a bundle of wires from the camry laserline alarm, then found the powered up wire end it would have originally been joined to and now I have that wire as it should be (looks like some cowboys fitted the alarm to the camry, the wires were just twisted together instead of being joined properly).

The moment of truth, I got the video camera setup, put the tools away, but alas still no spark!

Its turning into a saga. I'm going to have to trace every ignition wire through the Camry loom and see where it goes :-(

[mrT]

The plot thickens,
Why did u not remove the imobilisor altogether, join the wires back how they should be and then try start it again.. or check the fuses to the immobilisor perhaps u have a fews gone.. probably either a 15 a or 30a in the immobilisor wires..
It might be the immobilisor has. It the power at 2 points not just that 1

[briweekes]

Am stumped feeling dissappointed right now chaps :-(

That laserline alarm only had those two white/red going back and forth to the engine loom, all the alarm gubbins are not connected (I've removed that bunch of lose wires from the engine bay now).

The only thing I've not done from Paul's idiots wiring guide is the "yellow wire" from the v6 loom to the fusebox (page 38), as I have 3 yellow wires in my fusebox, and I've left the continuity test from the dashclocks end for now- surely it can't be that.

I've connected a light between the chassis and the HT lead that goes to the distrubutor centre, turning the engine over on the key, does not make the light come on. Makes me believe there is a fault with my basic wiring to the ignition/coil pack (wires other than the white/red). Of course we only have the V6 4th plug (ECM plug E10 I think), so I can't check the standard value of ECM terminals in the manual. Earths look ok.

I need an expert familiar with the V6 ignition wiring, do we have anyone on here that knows this?

Q/ Is there a cheat, to hot-wire the ignitor or coil??


The wife and kids roll there eyes when I ask 'em to nip out to the garage to turn the key, unwilling to help, its awkward living out in the sticks, I'm going to have a stiff drink now

[mrT]

Paul knows the wiring inside out, might be worth giving him a call.
I'm good with alarms, managed to wire my car in one attempt, only thing I had a issue with was the speedo sensor, but I got around it and made up my own harness to get it working...
It seems your immobi is the cause of the issue here, bypass it and see what happens, also I understand u have left a fee connections , might be worth wiring those in while u are at it, I know they are only outputs but I wonder if the ecu might be refusing to start due to a missing signal,
Just a thought, in the guide you get to a point where Paul mentions 4 or 5 black/red wires, they all need to be connected together and connected to a power wire, I'm guessing you have done those...

Not wanting to sound condescending or anything, so please don't be offended, but my gut feeling is you may have messed up on a wire somewhere, by not identifying it, either by colour or pin..
Some times the colours have faded on the wiring and can look different,
Grab a meter or tester and recheck the wiring by attaching 1 probe to the ecu pin and the other to where the wire is ment to go to, for example if pin 12 is ment to go to starter then make sure that is where it is going..
I'm sure it is just 1 wire somewhere that has been missed..

[cdwood2010]

Fuck it - hotwire it and see if that works.

At least you know what needs fixing then.

And make it a double Jamesons!!!!

C.

[briweekes]

Don't worry about being condescending MrT, I'm grateful for your comments. I'm usually ok with auto electrics.

We know some areas in the guide that are vague (or different models mean changes), which means possible errors with colour code changes (also wire thickness). I am going to summarise the Idiots guide for myself in bullet form (re-write it as a quick ref guide for me).

page 28 of the guide "two white/red wires......need to be joined to the black/red engine main relay output wires, easy to spot, 4 thick black coming out of the MK2 fusebox, use any or all of 'em" I just used one of them. Is the guide wrong MrT? I have not connected all of those, I took the word "any" literally.

I would have thought my COR is wired right, because the starter works ok, however I seem to recall the previous owner bypassed the COR for his separate fuel pump. I'll check.

[briweekes]

Fuck it - hotwire it and see if that works.

At least you know what needs fixing then.

And make it a double Jamesons!!!!

C.

yeah, that's the idea

[Paul Woods]

The guide is correct for the actual car i was wiring up all those years ago, but the problem is Toyota changed the wiring a lot from year to year and revision to revision, so the guide was only ever intended to be taken as a rough guideline, you are still expected to thoroughly research your own cars wiring, the guide is just that, a guide, and not to be taken literally by any means.

On that note a small announcement, the guide has been taken down as of today, it is no longer available in the downloads section. The reason being is some arsefuckwankcunthead has used the guide to wire up his V6 and despite the huge "you're a prick if you follow this guide verbatum and it doesn't work or worse still damages your loom" disclaimer, he managed to fry his loom..... apparently MY fault, despite every other man and his dog successfully using that article as a "guide" for years now.

It has escalated to possibly involving solicitors now, such is the arrogance of said fuckbrain, now chaps, you all know me and the amount of help/advice i give to this club, but when an asshole of this magnitude threatens me with legal action because he cannot use his own brain then it's time for me to pull the article, i simply cannot be bothered with that.

The side effect is it means lots of people will lose out, but i can't take the chance of some other fuckwit wiring himself to the mains while holding his HT leads in an effort to start his car, ok i exaggerate a little there but i'm hacked off about it, and then trying to blame me.

I have of course told said brain surgeon to go forth and multiply. Sorry for the thread hijack Brian, i will of course help you get yours going, if we follow a few simple tests i'm sure i can nail it down remotely.

1. switch ignition on and check for 12v on the w/r coilpack wire and the w/r amplifier wire. Also check pins 1,12 and 13 of the ECU D plug for 12v ignition (black/orange wires)

2. make sure the coilpack bracket is 100% earthed to the chassis, not just bolted to it but a separate earth wire going from bracket to chassis.

3. make sure the distributor plug is in, silly i know but you'd be amazed.

do the above and report back.

[cdwood2010]

Damn sir you make me horny!

Feel free to quote my name to the solicitors Mr Woods.

I have two very well documented builds using your wiring guide AS A GUIDE and you all know how well they turned out.

I doubt the cnut has a leg to stand on, the disclaimer is pretty clear, but I seriously mean this - let us know if we can bring guns to bear.....

Rant complete.

Brian - get that fucking car running for christ's sake - it's like the dentists waiting room!!!!

:)

C.

[briweekes]

thanks Paul, will report back Monday (on the vino now, and Toys4big boys show in Dublin tomorrow)

Shame about that fuckwitt blowing it for us, the health warning should have been enough. Hope it doesn't distract you too much from your business.

Cheers

Brian

[cdwood2010]

Bri,

Chatting with Pat, and he reckons those same 3 wires (he reckons we twisted them together) caused us some head scratching....Something about one of the wires changing polarity between off and on (based on the wiring diagrams) caused us to question the logic quite a bit.

As MrW says, the guide only gets you close, and we found the Lexus differed from the Cammy and the MR2's were both slightly different. The Black will be different again, as it's an import.

Hoping you get it nailed soon, but will watch this thread with interest!

Chris.

[briweekes]

Hi Paul: 3 checks completed this morning

1. switch ignition on and check for 12v on the w/r coilpack wire and the w/r amplifier wire. Also check pins 1,12 and 13 of the ECU D plug for 12v ignition (black/orange wires)- Checked all three w/r going to the coilpack devices and ok
2. make sure the coilpack bracket is 100% earthed to the chassis, not just bolted to it but a separate earth wire going from bracket to chassis.- checked and good
3. make sure the distributor plug is in, silly i know but you'd be amazed. checked and ok

I've just joined the other remaining black and red wire in the fusebox to the white/red wire (suggested by Chris), however turning the ignition on made the red fan come on and stay on, which doesn't seem right to me, so I've disconnected it again.

[mrT]

So I'm guessing the car still didn't start after joining those wires. Or did u not crank it..
When I turn the key on mine at ignition the power steering pump starts humming, can also hear my walbro pump humming too. Both are loud. Did kind of worry me at 1st but don't bother me now..
Have u checked all the fuses in engine bay and inside car, also I know the car ain't starting, but since u can turn it to igniton and have some life in it..Why not bridge the te1 and e1 in the diagnostic terminal and do an error check,
See what comes up, might help diagnose what is missing..

[briweekes]

Correct MrT joining those wires did not help the car start, and only added the issue of making the rad fan come on straight away.

I have found an error in my wiring of the 4 black/orange wires to the 4th pin of the EFI relay (checked and no continuity, turns out I wired wrongly)- now fixed.

I'm just checking the red/blue alternator wire, as I have more than one black/yellow wire in the fusebox (eeni-meeni-myni-mo). "If in doubt use the EFI output -" but I don't know which one that is. Ah, turns out to be the same wire that goes to the 4th pin of the EFI relay.....

[mrT]

I remember that one, Paul suggests using efi output, if u defiantly want to use that then pull the ego relay and check which pin has 12v in fuesbox, personally I just went with a 12v feed as I didn't want to wire to the efi output.. there is a 12v feed in the body harness of the mr2, the connector that is left dangling in boot when u removed the mr2 ecu, this is the same connector that u wire the speedo signal to if that helps..

Also I guess I was right when I said it is one colour wire that u have spliced wrong

[briweekes]

Still no joy :-(

Its something much more fundamental. Basically when I crank the engine over, there is absolutely no power coming out of the HT lead from the coil to the distributor.

A light connected to that does not illuminate.

I still have my old Camry battery terminals connected to the V6 loom, stupid question of the day, do these need to be hard wired over to the Mr2 Battery?

[mrT]

The camry battery terminals, I earthed the negative to the gearbox, and the live u just cut off and insulate. It isn't used as u have a thick live wire coming from front of car back to engine bay, this wire reaches the alternator and connects to it perfectly fine..
Did u do a error check.. ?.

[briweekes]

Just came off the phone to Paul, who talked me through a few basics, very methodically. Identified a dodgy piece of soldering by me, plus a basic plug connection (an embarrasing one).

The engine is now running and I am over the moon!- yippee!!!!

A bit of tidying up and I'll post a short clip for you

[mrT]

Just came off the phone to Paul, who talked me through a few basics, very methodically. Identified a dodgy piece of soldering by me, plus a basic plug connection (an embarrasing one).

The engine is now running and I am over the moon!- yippee!!!!

A bit of tidying up and I'll post a short clip for you

Go on then own up and tell us where the cockup was.. perhaps even post a pic for anyone in the future to be wary of,..
and great job,well done, we finally got there..
I bet you are releaved now..and will sleep well tonight..
I wired up a mfd system in my mates skyline yesterday for him, the previous owner had fitted it but most of the important gauges were not working,
I took the whole thing apart and rewired the lot, mate is now over the moon and cant thank enough..lol

[briweekes]

Happy days!!

Paul is a legend- thanks Paul!

[pilotpete]

:SmackBottom:Right ! Now stop fannying about - get it all back together and on the road, ready for Le Man !

[cdwood2010]

Hurrah!

Get that video uploaded!

The nice thing is that by having to resolve this issue you probably learned a great deal more!

C.

[briweekes]

Here you go:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zGsCFuinMuc

The first fire up was with Paul on the phone, this is the second turn of the key, a few rattles (it was the clutch cable touching the manifild heatshield, now fixed) and things to bolt down, but it seems fine right now.

[Smurfster]

A massive well done Brian. It sounds and looks excellent. Looking forward to seeing it running now!
I got the bits and bobs off Slipeslide yesterday and really looking forward to having a beast like that up and running!

[cdwood2010]

Outstanding!

Between that noise, the look of the car, the uuber shiny plenum and the well tasty video, I'm not sure I will sleep tonight!

Just secured a Cammy - build #3 here we come!!!

Chris.

[briweekes]

A massive well done Brian. It sounds and looks excellent. Looking forward to seeing it running now!
I got the bits and bobs off Slipeslide yesterday and really looking forward to having a beast like that up and running!

Cool smurster! looking forward to being any help I can. I have a good engine trolley if you want to borrow it

[Paul Woods]

Happy days!!

Paul is a legend- thanks Paul!

You're welcome mate, it's amazing what actually plugging the ECU in will do , sorry couldn't resist! :)

[nik]

haha..or using the correct ECU in the first place :)
congrats matey.

[dgh938peg]

You're welcome mate, it's amazing what actually plugging the ECU in will do , sorry couldn't resist! :)

Oooops Brian... Happens to the best of us mate... Importantly, the end result is there for all to see. :thumbsup:

That exhaust sounds immense!

[GaryA]

Very nice job that ,well done

[briweekes]

yeah yeah, ok- dodgy soldering and erm, plug 'em in, wot those plugs there ;-)

Now I'm really into it, opening the garage doors and starting her up, just to hear the purr. My neighbour popped over and we had a beer in the garage to celebrate. These toyota V6's are bloody amazing, silky smooth and the burble when idling, totally awesome

[SlipSlide]

Well done Brian, sounds great.

[briweekes]

Exhaust re-fitted sealed and sounds lovely now.

The EMS B pipe came out 11cm too short to reach the Magnex pipes, although I expected them to be a straight bolt up jobby. Had a short piece fabricated to join them up:

http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/653/emspipeext.jpg

[pilotpete]

Cracking job Brian, looking forward to seeing it next year. (if you can remember to plug in your alarm clock) !!

[briweekes]

Cracking job Brian, looking forward to seeing it next year. (if you can remember to plug in your alarm clock) !!

Thankss, you're right about the alarm clock Pete (plugs? ok ok), since I'm planning the Hibernation thing now, large cardboard box, some straw and a little bit of lettice in case I get hungry

[briweekes]

I got lucky at the tractor parts retailer today, managed to souce a pair of hydraulic couplers that suit the end fittings of the aircon metal pipes running underneath the MR2.

http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/5999/airconswaptohot.jpg

Will report back on how I get on (need to get a couple of step down/up plastic pipe adaptors, available online)

[briweekes]

Today

- clutch sorted
- Accelerator cable sorted

Tomorrow

- Connect the clocks wire
- Wire up the Engine bay fan
- Tachometer mod (using the old Camry part)
- wheels on and test drive ;-)

[cdwood2010]

Woop!

Be gentle on the shakedown!

Chris.

[pilotpete]

:fingersx::eusa_pray:Everything crossed for you mate.

[briweekes]

-Identified the clocks yellow wire ok, swapped the circuit board behind the tacho ok, tidied up the wires, shortened the AFM intake pipe, fitted the K&N.
-Wheels on
-The clutch works brilliant, and won't strain my left leg.
-Warmed the engine up
-Gingerly drive it along the drive, check everything ok. Temp ok. Just a slight smell of paint curing
-a slow cruise up my lane, AWESOME AWESOME AWESOME!!!!!
The car is TOTALLY transformed, incredible. I didn't floor it (well not much), the pull is amazing.

its the dogs bollox

Wowee!!!

[Crippler7815]

Congratulations!!

[briweekes]

Congratulations!!

Cheers, its turned out better than I imagined, I feel like the beast is in my veins, what a great feeling.

[SlipSlide]

Excellent news Brian, now wheres the video :smile:

Will have to drop down with Smurfster again, was well worth the journey even before the engine went in :thumbsup:

[cdwood2010]

Excellent news bri, it's those first few feet that are the scariest!

Once you get it on the open road and give it the beans you will wonder what you were worrying about.

The most fun I have had in years was pat and I driving up to JAE. Only a few miles from where I live, but Jesus it was fun. Pat thought he had the faster car, boy was he surprised!

I totally loved running around town in BBQ, stamp on the go pedal and I could nip in and out of traffic like I really noisy ninja!

I think that noise really goes with the look of your car. I hate lookalikes with what is obviously the wrong engine.

The 3VZ sounds like a much bigger engine, you will get addicted to flooring it just so you can here it!!!

Chris.

[EEngineer]

i only read half the thread and it already made me LOL at work.
wow, what a thread! Brian's attention to detail is really astonishing!

anyway, i'm gonna do some shameless advertisements here. everyone please visit the facebook group "3VZ-FE"
tonnes of useful info there with a great crowd!
afterall I am a proud owner of a 3VZ-F"Z"E putting down 250whp and 210ftlb wtrq ;)

[cdwood2010]

Hello mate, Toronto eh?

I thought you Canadians were all sensible!

Got some good friends living in Guelph, try to make it over every year to see them and drop into The Loose Moose!

:)

Chris.

[EEngineer]

hehe, i'm not exactly a "canadian" canadian. maybe that's why i'm going all crazy over the 3VZ.
Brian gave me a few pictures on my facebook group and i just had to come here to find the whole deal. :)

too bad i don't drive a MR2 though. my platform is a 1992 Lexus ES300 manual ;)

[briweekes]

too bad i don't drive a MR2 though. my platform is a 1992 Lexus ES300 manual ;)

Definately worth a look at that 3VZ-FE FB page, EEngineer's Supercharger looks good on his 3VZ, and I understand it goes well too

[EEngineer]

I see that the infamous Mr. Woods is a frequent visitor of this forum as well. I'm kinda excited because he's the only other person I know other than myself who supercharged 3VZs.
I got the idea from him of course but worked out the detailed myself since the ES300 is quite roomier.
any driving clips of the car yet?
and to note...the EMS Y-pipe has the best Y joint I've seen. The OBX y-pipe i have for the 1MZ was modified to fit the 3VZ and the Y is more like a T.
I think it might just work on the ES, but i think i only need the section before the flange.

[cdwood2010]

my platform is a 1992 Lexus ES300 manual ;)

yeah, we casually refer to that as 'a donor car'

:)

Find a two before you start wearing a tweed cap and driving gloves!!!


C.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/11/129.jpg

[EEngineer]

oh jeez, i guess i am driving a donor car to you folks.
It is very rare to find an ES300 with a manual box though.

[cdwood2010]

oh jeez, i guess i am driving a donor car to you folks.
It is very rare to find an ES300 with a manual box though.

You're not wrong, practically non-existent in the UK. I'm sure the M/T ECU is probably worth a bit too.

We used an ES300 auto for our first swap, really nice car with lots of toys. It had been left to go to ruin tho so we didn't feel too bad about killing it.

But yes, get the wife to crash it and then go find an MR2 and transplant that V6!!!

:)

Chris.

[EEngineer]

wife? what wife? my gf doesn't drive stick and i would never let her drive my car eitherway haha.
I actually do happen to have a spare M/T ECU haha, if anyone wants it i'll give it away for peanuts.

the MR2s here in Canada are either rust buckets or RHD...and i think the ES is a little better for daily driving haha, butt warmers and leather electric seats. ;)

[mrT]

I call 1st dibs on that m/t ecu

[EEngineer]

whoa? it's really highly sought after?
hmm, maybe i should up the price?

i kid i kid!

[mrT]

whoa? it's really highly sought after?
hmm, maybe i should up the price?

i kid i kid!
what price, you didnt quote a price to begin with..lol
just thought I would get in 1st for once...lol

[EEngineer]

i'll trade it for a lb of deep fried mars bars LOL

actually...no, heart failure is not fun.

what is it worth to you?

[mrT]

haha, mars bars,,, yuk.. hate the stuff, even more so when they are fried..lol
dunno fella,. never priced one up, dunno if it will just plug and play in my car either, just said yess on spur of the moment..lol

[cdwood2010]

Not sure how different they are, but I do recall that one of the wires in the wiring guide was a 5v feed to fool the ECU into thinking the auto box was still there.

I'm Not sure what BHP advantages there are between ECU's, Mr Woods might know that one.

Chris.

[mrT]

Well I know we don't feed the speed signal back to the auto ecu as it makes the car kangaroo when u get the revs/speed to auto shift points..
That's why we send a 5v signal to the ecu to make it think its in park I think..
Now this is also why u get a code 42 when u do a error check as the ecu doesn't see a speed signal when engine is revved past 3.5 constantly for 30 seconds...

Now I know its been said many times that even tho the ecu stores code 42 it doesn't retard igniton..

From experience with me gt4, when I lost the speedo signal it stored the code and retarded ignition..

Now what I would like to find out by fitting a manual ecu is 2 things,
1, will it still throw the error code..
2, does the car feel any different, ie does the auto ecu retard ignition or not...

From what I read the auto ecu is rather lazy and doesn't mind having a code stored.
But I am fussy bugger and I would just like to know the output just to satisfy my curiousity ...