Help With aligning s54 with 3vz-fe

[007shadow]

Hi i am halfway through the v6 engine swap but i am having trouble getting the engine to mate with the gearbox, i have tried tipping the engine on its side to get the gearbox to align easier. seems to be ok but am unable to crank manually with a power-bar so i am worried it is still not correct after 3 times (i am pretty sure the clutch is aligned though)

what would you guys recommended is there anyway i can check that i have done it right?(the pins on the engine line up with the gearbox at the top ok it is more the bottom that i am worried about the gearbox looks about a 1-2mm gap at the bottom of the engine?)

Also how many bolts should be holding the gearbox to the engine?

Thanks for any replies :)

[stevehall]

I had my bolts set up like this:
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/08/63.jpg
You should definatly be able to crank the motor with a large spanner. Are you sure the box is still in neutral?

[007shadow]

hi im not 100% that the box is in neutral the engine turns a bit by hooking the starter motor up to a car battery but i can turn it with the power bar to you think not having the box in neutral could be the issue? thanks

[tripod23]

have you put the clutch set up together as per guide off here - there are lots of little bits and pieces which have to be checked

1 - flywheel bolt need to be trimmed
2 - make sure the clutch plate is not scuffing on the flywheel bolt heads
3 - have you made sure the clutch is centerd properly so the gearbox shaft has a clear guide through the splines / plus light greasing is needed.

4 - also sometimes the dowels bind as you try to offer the box to the block slip a little grease on the dowels as well.

some of the above is standard stuff but needs checking. - others will be along to give you their thoughts iv no doubt.

lastly do not get heavy handed and lose your bottle take a break have a brew and then take another look at it

good luck

[adamh]

did you check the clutch plate fits the splined input shaft? whip the pressure plate off and check. I used a crane to hold the engine horizontal floating, put the transmission on a small wheeled trolley, made it easier.

[sketchy]

if the gearbox is off, can you still not turn the engine over by hand?if you cant, Id look here.
if you can turn the drive shafts and see the gearbox input shaft turn, then you should be fine(or turn the input shaft, either way)

having the trans in gear wont make much difference(just harder to turn by hand), unless your splines/clutch disc are not lined up correctly it wont be able to get all the way on, if its all the way on,try putting the trans in neutral and spin it over then...but it seems odd that it wont turn over

you can move a car in gear on the starter(put cars onto the trailer that way....)so there is no reason it wont have enough torque to kick it over if the box is in gear.

[007shadow]

found the problem i was using a 3vz-e fly wheel and the dam thin is just to big (deep) to fit properly in the gear box i am now getting it skimmed by a professional so that should sort the problem out, i had a long talk with exceedy and we worked out were to skim it all ect i am getting the flywheel back on Friday i will let you know how it gose

[sketchy]

silly question then....what has/is it costing you all up for the flywheel and machineing of it?

has it cost more than the $600 or so it cost to get a fidenza shipped here?

[007shadow]

Well after being d*kd on trade me, 3vz-e Fly wheel and exceedy pressure plate and clutch $400 however the clutch was for a turbo (despite the guying saying it was for a 3sge) and the flywheel bolts didn't fit and almost F*ed my engine.so +121 for a new clutch however the saving grace was the same guy sold me 4v6's engine mount for $50, so not quite $600, Because i bought an exceedy clutch the guy is doing the machining for $40 and a box of beer so as long as it works i will be happy, oh also i had to buy new flywheel bolts for the 3vz +40

(all price are in NZD)
My running total so far is
1991 3vz-fe $500 (done 160k's but the head gaskets, cam belt idlers and water-pump all been done buy the machine i bough it off )
Pressure plate wrong clutch and fly wheel including shipping $415
Machining $60 (including the beer)
Other items i got from pick a part bolts missing bits off the engine ect about $120
Fan belt ( i got one that fits perfectly for just the cam gear and alternator so i could remove the power steering pump and ac)$30
Oil, coolant, tranny fluid $120
tools that i have had to buy engine hoist, axle stands jacks (All off trad me NZ version of ebay) $130
Being without a car for 3 weeks depressing

So about 1.4k ish not including the huge amount of petrol i have used driving back and forth

still haven't got the engine in so will need cert and i am sure other little things will crop up if i had too pay $600 for the flywheel alone it would have really put the swap well out of my price range as a student. The project killing me both physically, financially and mentally. The 3vz flywheel seems very heavy duty anyways so i am quite confident it can take being skimmed and still remain pretty strong.

At the moment the swap is really depressing me as i cant help but think if i had just sold my car and bought an mr2 turbo it would be soo much easier especially since my car is still going to need a cert and exhaust modifying ect

I am sure i will feel better once i hear it start ill try not to let it bog me down to much.. also at 18 will i be the youngest owner of a v6 mr2?

cheers guys for your help and sorry for the rant

(sorry for the useless grammar/ spelling i am too tired atm)

[snowtigger]

rant away good to get it of your chest some times, if you had just bought a mr2 turbo at 18 the insurance would be mega money and you probably would have ended up blowing the head gasket not cheap and had to replace the pipe from hell so swings and round abouts mate just think you will have the v6 in and loads of trouble free miles of cruising to look forward to.

ps my spelling and grammar at times is terrible so dont worry none mate.

[hmmmmm]

Just keep youre head up and think of what it will sound like! Its fokking epic :)

These sort of cars will always be more expensive than youre average runabout, but they are worth it. And the 3VZ-FE is bulletproof so if build right, they will last centuries. Like tiggs said; if you where to get a cheap turbo, you would also have to spend time and money to get it reliable.

[adamh]

done a 3vz-e wheel before, you need take the dowels out/machine , take about 2mm off the front, then cut a small recess back for the clutch face on the outer diameter. and then some of the rear mounting boss (7-8mm) to make the rear face spaced 5mm off block. re-insert dowels, incase you have any probs , here (http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?1402-V6-flywheel-info&highlight=v6+flywheels)

[sketchy]

it can get a bit like that. but like anywhere else in the world, there are good and bad people.

at least your getting there....the cert all going well should be the basic $400 or so, but its the same wether its an engine swap or suspension, seats, body and engine...still got to do the cert thing with mine...next few weeks hopefully

[007shadow]

it lives sort of :) i think there is a vacuum leak though as it idles rough and i can hear a hissing noise though possible it could be something to do with the afm as mine was cut and i had to re-wire it

Sounds soooo Loud without an exhaust

I still need to put some coolant in, sort the vacuum leak out, bleed the breaks before it ready to be driven. Will the rough idle be being caused by the afm or have i wired something wrong?

Here is the 1st start up (really its like the 5th as i couldn't start ity and realized the Cor was not plunged in Dough)

I am not in this video as i am in the drivers seat

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yUqK_IzZfU