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Tim Higgott
06-02-2010, 10:13
Help please.

Ok so my car is sick and i need help. I'm not the cleaverest when it come's to cars so bear with me.

I am currently running standard boost even though i have made every effort to change that. I have tried different boost controllers and asked many people but standard is all i can get. I have fitted a forged acuator and that didnt work so i the only thing left was the turbo. Anyway right or wrong i have decided to get a new turbo and an Apexi power fc and this has been in the pipe line since last year.

For those of you who don't know i broke my wrist which has put the plan back abit.

I had a chat with a couple of people and i was still trying to get to the bottom of standard boost. Now i dont recommend anyone doing this but this was a last resort, I pulled the acuator pipe off to see if the car would over boost.
Well guess what, still standard boost even on a run in any gear.

I then spoke to the guy i want to map my car and he asked when am i looking to get the new turbo and have it mapped, which i replied feb/march 2010. (This was before christmas when i still had my cast on). From his advice and other peolpe i had spoke to it would be a waste of money trying to get more boost as it could be the turbo.

Well i drove the car round at christmas and into january and the car was sweet with no problems.

Last week was out and came up to a set of traffic lights and thought, lets try and get a fast start off the line (as you do). Well first gear went well then changed into second and something happened. Cough splert chug chug and i was struggerling to keep her running. No engine management light on but at the next set of lights it stalled, i also noticed the boost gauge not working. Drove her home under 2 thousand revs and had a look under the bonnet. First i see a bung out of a small boost pipe which loops in with the boost gauge so i bunged back up ( boost gauge working again). Other than that nothing, oh apart from the actuactor pipe i hadnt put back on because of my broken wrist. This could be the case but this has been of since november and i driven it hard.

So ive driven it to work today to try and have a look.

1) Stalls on tick over or hunting
2) Revs upto 4K ok and think it will go more in 1st gear, change into 2nd and struggles to go above 2.5k-3k when the turbo comes in, 3rd, 4th and 5th gear the same. It almost feels like fuel starvation or running on 3 cylinders when the turbo tries to come in.
3) Checked engine fault codes and there are none.

Does this sound like a boost leak or sensor?

Thanks all

snowtigger
06-02-2010, 10:25
Sounds like a fuel problem not enough getting to the engine, I've had mine coughing a spluttering and hunting, cause I let the fuel level get to low and it may have sucked up some crap.
The not boosting has me scratching my head, stick the actuator back on for a start then try it.
Could it be an air leak?
Any body else got some help for the poor lad?
Also a vid of the engine running or trying to may help diagnose what's wrong, just a thought.

Tim Higgott
06-02-2010, 10:36
Cheers Snow.

Can't put the old actuator back on. When you take the standard one off you have to take the welded bracket off which knackers it.

Not had low fuel in the car and scratching my head why it just happened. Don't really what to have my new turbo fitted with this problem as its a bit unfair for Tim at TB.
I may just ask him to sort it and send me the bill.
There is an inspection plate at the back between the bootand engine, may take if off and see if there are some pipes off.

GaryA
06-02-2010, 11:18
have you got any oil around the air inlet pipes ? Check to see if you have blown a hole in a hose also . The same kind of traffic light grand prix popped my pistons :-( other things try resetting the ecu by disconnecting the battery , i had to after hitting 22psi launching with the wastegate pipe off once . On my mobile so hard to write a propper reply

snowtigger
06-02-2010, 11:28
It could be a small hole in an air pipe.

The actuator is a pita then, some times it's easyer to just give it to a specialist as you could spend hours looking for the fault, and they walk upto it and go there's your problem.

After all Paul and Tb have been working on these cars for years and I haven't touched turbos since the t3/t4 where first out on the mk1 Sierra cosworth and mk3 shedscort turbo, so my knowledge is a little old and crusty.

Tim Higgott
06-02-2010, 11:39
Thanks guys. Yeah i was gonna disconnect the battery this afternoon and try that.

Will report back.

Tim Higgott
06-02-2010, 13:25
Well just had it in the workshop.

Can't see any pipes off. Car is hunting and over fueling when reved.

Engine managment light came on so i read the fault code: 2142.

Disconected lamda prode while running and makes no diff.

My mate seem to think its more machanical than electronic. Thought it may have jumped a tooth and timing out. Checked belt and its not loose.

GregLeBon
06-02-2010, 14:31
It sounds like the no boost-bit is the real clue...?

Whatever else was wrong, unless there is a leak downstream of the turbo (or the acuator is stuck?), then you would see boost........?

I suppose the turbo shaft could actually be seized, possibly? :hmm:

GaryA
06-02-2010, 14:56
Is that 21 and 42 on the fault codes ? Do they go away if you disconnect the battery ?

biteme
06-02-2010, 15:05
21 is o2 sensor and I think 42 is either knock or speedo.

Basics ok, like the timing and the leads/plugs/cap?

Tim Higgott
06-02-2010, 15:07
im sure its 2142 there was no pause between them.

and yes it does go away when the battery is disconnected but the fault is still there.

biteme
06-02-2010, 15:21
Fault codes
Fault Code|Fault Description
2/31|Inhalation pipe pressure meter
3/14|Ignition indicator (except cars with DLI, DRD)
3/14|Ignition indicator (for cars with DLI, DRD)
4/22|Water leak indicator
5/21|Dx indicator
6/12-3|Tachometer
7/41|Throttle indicator (cars with linear sensor)
7/41|Throttle indicator
8/24|Inhalation temperature indicator
9/42|Speedometer
10/43|STA indicator
11/51|Switch
11|+B (except cars with step motor type ISCV)
11|+B (for cars with Step motor type ISCV)
23|Evaporator temperature indicator
31,32|Air flow meter (except cars with carman whirlpool air flow meter)
31|Air flow meter (for cars for carman meter)
32|Atmospheric pressure meter (7M-GTEU)
33|ISCV meter
34|Circulation pressure supply (?)
31|Circulation pressure supply (?|
35|Turbo pressure meter
52,53|Knock indicator (sensor)
54|Inter cooler
01|Data communication

Tim Higgott
06-02-2010, 15:30
confused[:(.

Will wait for the light to come back on and start again

biteme
06-02-2010, 15:35
confused[:(.

Will wait for the light to come back on and start again

See if you can video it for us mate :thumbsup:

Tim Higgott
06-02-2010, 16:53
Pictures are hard enough for me to do let alone videos. :pray:

Just had the inspection panel off to see if there are any pipes off and all looks ok. Cant hear any leaks at all and my mate is convinced its the timing.

Codes are 21 and 42 but they have gone off now

GaryA
06-02-2010, 17:06
can you maybe swap the afm with a good one ? Might be tempted to check the compression if it were me also

biteme
06-02-2010, 18:42
can you maybe swap the afm with a good one ? Might be tempted to check the compression if it were me also
No AFM on the Rev 3 turbo!

snowtigger
06-02-2010, 18:58
He's getting confused Johnny cause in the side it says rev1 but he's had all the rev3 upgrades.

GaryA
06-02-2010, 19:13
ah yeah good point , rev 2 is the limit of my knowledge . Still be tempted to check comps first

Tim Higgott
06-02-2010, 23:34
Ok so drove home from work and noticed my afr at 10 all the time.

When the car comes on boost, if i try and put my foot down then the car coughs and splutters, If i lightly take my foot off the gas but just a little on it will rev up.

GregHoon
06-02-2010, 23:46
You probably looked at this but are you sure there is no hole in your vac pipes? I had that problem where my alternator would slice through the vac pipe (after heavy acceleration) eventually and the car would limp and not hold solid revs.

GaryA
06-02-2010, 23:53
Did it show any boost pressure ?

GregHoon
06-02-2010, 23:59
Did it show any boost pressure ?

If that question was directed at me then yes it did but would not reach max boost at all.

GaryA
07-02-2010, 00:11
Like you say Greg maybe a vac pipe to something like the MAP sensor would give this kind of fault .

GregHoon
07-02-2010, 00:14
Yeah hopefully just that Gary, was really easy to fix. Just swap it out for a new pipe. Then we will be smiles times :)

biteme
07-02-2010, 09:35
AFR of 10 is too rich. Far too rich.

Tim Higgott
07-02-2010, 10:09
I know mate. Flames, black smoke and back fire. Sound really sick :puke:

Well i want to swap all the pipes for red ones so now seems like the ideal time.

Spoke to Paul and he is sure as he can be (after speak on the phone and not being next to the car) that its a boost leak, split pipe.

biteme
07-02-2010, 11:32
Yea, I'd also replace the o2 sensor mate just to be on the safe side.

Tim Higgott
07-02-2010, 11:45
I'm on Vodafone bud:thumbsup:

biteme
07-02-2010, 11:52
I'm on Vodafone bud:thumbsup:

Ahh! I see what you did there! You mistook o2 from Oxygen for o2 as in the mobile phone network - for comedy effect. Very good!:jester: :rlol:

Tim Higgott
07-02-2010, 12:36
Thank you. I'm glad my attempt at comedy was appreciated in light of my car being sick.

Not sure where my 02 sensors is though.

I do know its not on my phone.

biteme
07-02-2010, 13:12
Look at the engine from the drivers sideof the car, it's the part sticking out of the exhaust downpipe just behing the heatshield. It's a probe plugged in with a couple of wires coming off it :)

Tim Higgott
07-02-2010, 14:01
Cheers Johnny. Yeah i know where that is. my mate disconnected it yesterday while havin a look at it didn't change the running of the car.

Coming back in next week so my guy's can look at it.

Vac pipe all ok and yes it does show boost.

biteme
07-02-2010, 14:03
Cheers Johnny. Yeah i know where that is. my mate disconnected it yesterday while havin a look at it didn't change the running of the car.

Coming back in next week so my guy's can look at it.

Vac pipe all ok and yes it does show boost.

A small leak can still show boost - more boost produced equals more pressure on the split. The more pressure, the more that escapes.

GaryA
07-02-2010, 15:36
any hissing noise when it comes on boost that it wasnt doing before ?

Tim Higgott
07-02-2010, 15:39
Nope.

Tim Higgott
08-02-2010, 17:29
Well some good news today. No it's not fixed but i had a call from my old boss who is selling my other car (Lisa's Puma, as she now has an MR2) and it is sold.

What this means is i can order my new turbo and when that is fitted they can give the car a check.

Happy Days :thumbsup:

Charged
08-02-2010, 17:57
My advice (as ever) is to get the car to an Mr2 or at least a 3sgte specialist. You could be getting frustrated over something someone who knows the engine well could fix in 5 minutes.

GregHoon
08-02-2010, 18:05
My advice (as ever) is to get the car to an Mr2 or at least a 3sgte specialist. You could be getting frustrated over something someone who knows the engine well could fix in 5 minutes.

Spot on. Who's looked at the car so far tim?

Tim Higgott
08-02-2010, 18:12
Me and my mate. LOL

No in all seriousness my mate is a trained mechanic, well into the ford stuff, builds engines, maps cars and is currently building his own car (Ford escort mk1 with cosworth engine).

He Knows what he is doing but not really had time to have a good look.

It's going to Tim at TBDevelopments.

GregHoon
08-02-2010, 18:14
What turbo you going for?

biteme
08-02-2010, 18:29
GT28RS I'd say :)

Tim Higgott
08-02-2010, 23:00
yeap gt2871

Not changing internals or anything else, will be under 350bhp.

I can't wait, good times ahead.

antnkel
08-02-2010, 23:23
How much under?

biteme
09-02-2010, 07:25
yeap gt2871

Not changing internals or anything else, will be under 350bhp.

I can't wait, good times ahead.

Probably around 300bhp, then when mapped, 350bhp is easy :)

antnkel
09-02-2010, 08:18
Wouldn't you need upgraded headgasket at that power and maybe pistons?
I know when my rev3 tubby went and was thinking of a rebuild I was told that for 300whp I would need forged pistons and upgraded headgasket.

biteme
09-02-2010, 09:05
Wouldn't you need upgraded headgasket at that power and maybe pistons?
I know when my rev3 tubby went and was thinking of a rebuild I was told that for 300whp I would need forged pistons and upgraded headgasket.

Nah, stock pistons are strong. Rev 3 HG is metal. It'll be fine.
It's all in the tune anyways.

antnkel
09-02-2010, 09:28
Thought his was a rev1 unless I read that wrong?

Tim Higgott
09-02-2010, 09:29
Fueling will max out at 350bhp and also need new internals after that. If i want to go more its gonna cost a shit load plus there is not much point in my mk1. Will cause alot more problems going over this amount, chassis and other stuff.

This has been planned for several months now and was put back due to my wrist.

It's all just pub figures really, the delivery of the gt2871 should be fantastic in the small light weight car. Will spool very quickly and the midrange improvement over the ct20 should be good. Just want it to scare the shit out of me.

Also i've got my Apexi power fc sitting in my back room ready.

Will keep you all updated

antnkel
09-02-2010, 09:36
Just seen rev3 under ya avitar, thought you had a rev1 for some reason and the headgaskets don't last much over 300bhp do they unless i've got that mixed up aswell.:icon_conf

biteme
09-02-2010, 09:41
:)

Tim, get an uprated fuel pump in there as well - the stock 540cc injectors are good for around 420-440bhp IIRC. That turbo will at max produce 420bhp I think. So, realistically I'd say 380bhp would be your upper limit on that setup :thumbsup:

Are you getting Mr Ryan G to map it?

Tim Higgott
09-02-2010, 10:10
Well i've spoke to Ryan and also i've spoke to Tim at TB.

As i currently have a problem with the car im not that fussed on tring to get it fixed at the mo. Looks like the car could go to Tim's early March for sorting and having the turbo put in. I then have a choice to leave it with Tim and get it mapped, get Ryan to go to the vehicle and map it or the Apexi power fc has a base map so i could drive it away and see ryan at the rolling road he uses and map it.

Not sure whether to just keep with Tim just in case we have a problem.

I do really want to use Ryan as Mr G has highly recommended him.

biteme
09-02-2010, 10:35
Well i've spoke to Ryan and also i've spoke to Tim at TB.

As i currently have a problem with the car im not that fussed on tring to get it fixed at the mo. Looks like the car could go to Tim's early March for sorting and having the turbo put in. I then have a choice to leave it with Tim and get it mapped, get Ryan to go to the vehicle and map it or the Apexi power fc has a base map so i could drive it away and see ryan at the rolling road he uses and map it.

Not sure whether to just keep with Tim just in case we have a problem.

I do really want to use Ryan as Mr G has highly recommended him.

Mate, take full advantage of Ryan being mobile - and have him map the car around Tim's area. It's not that far away, about 80 odd miles from Ryan's I think.

Speak to Ryan about Rolling Road's around Tim's as well. Ideal scenario would be for you to get it road-mapped around Tim's, on your way to the RR, get the high-load cells mapped on the RR and then refined on the road back to Tim's.

Ryan can get in his car and go home, and you can do the same :thumbsup:

Tim Higgott
09-02-2010, 11:08
Ok boss that was my plan of action.

I will have a chat with Tim as far as the fuel pump. The only reason i hadnt planned one is because i don't want it over 350bhp. Internals then are at risk.

Turbo fuel pump should go to that.

biteme
09-02-2010, 11:12
Ok boss that was my plan of action.

I will have a chat with Tim as far as the fuel pump. The only reason i hadnt planned one is because i don't want it over 350bhp. Internals then are at risk.

Turbo fuel pump should go to that.

Should be fine mate - but my train of thought is that your engine and associated parts are around 15 years old. Pumps can fail, so for the sake of £70 ...

Tim Higgott
09-02-2010, 12:08
It's a new pump i'm sure.

biteme
09-02-2010, 12:12
Sweet. Then, you're laughing :thumbsup: (cunt)