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aussiemr2
16-10-2009, 14:08
Hi All from Western Australia

Ok I have just started my V6 swap after 3 years of coming to Twobrutal and watching everyone do their swaps

I have spent the last 5 years I have had my 1991 N/A tidying up the styling and the usual bits that fall apart after 18 years of service

Will post some pics tomorrow as I left my camera at the office but wish me luck as I am pulling the donor 3VZFE out of the camry tomorrow :-)

Paul

Paul Woods
16-10-2009, 19:40
Welcome to TB paul, chuck another 3sge on the barbie! :)

Plasticgeordie2007
17-10-2009, 08:47
Welcome to TB

Are yo planning on doing the swap yourself?

aussiemr2
17-10-2009, 09:38
Welcome to TB

Are yo planning on doing the swap yourself?

I will be doing it myself lol the most I have ever done before is rebuild a 6 cylinder head in an old Toyota Landcruiser but TBH this looks easy
I'm doing a complete strip down and rebuild with Fidanza flywheel and all new gaskets, rings and bearings as the motor has done 270,000km

This will be stage 1 of 3 with stage 2 and 3 in no certain order find a rev2 gearbox and do the 5th gear mod and lsd and supercharge using scion tc supercharger kit once Paul Woods finalises it or TRD depending on price or availability

I was let down today on the hire of an engine crane so will be pulling it out next weekend

The engine is actually coming out of a Holden / GM Apollo which is just a rebadged Camry, pickup it up running for equivalent of 150 quid, runs smooth as and the aircon still worked which is good as I will be keeping it in the conversion

Got my camera back today so will post some pics this evening once I work out how to :redface:

Paul Woods
17-10-2009, 09:48
Just a quick pointer for you paul, we have bought australian imports like windoms etc in the past and have never been able to use the stock ECU, for some reason Oz 3vz ECU's will throw the CEL on for any reason and it stays on, almost as if they are OBD2 or something, so we use UK ECU's on those.

You can still use the Oz ECU but just be aware you may have a lit CEL

aussiemr2
17-10-2009, 10:37
Ok here is my baby as it sits at the moment, 1991 Rev1 N/A Australian delivered, Toms body kit with Genuine Autopista rear spoiler, Rev3 rear lights and centre garnish, Rogue Quad headlights and full respray in Rosa Corsa Ferrari red, Remus back box exhaust system which i hope to keep on the V6

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/10/99.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/10/100.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/10/101.jpg

Just received an engine mount from 4v6
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/10/102.jpg

Notice the difference on the v bank cover

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/10/103.jpg

And this is how the donor car looks at the minute

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/10/104.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/10/105.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/10/106.jpg

Could this be the worlds first General Motors / MR2 Hybrid? :P

Paul Woods
17-10-2009, 10:39
That is one stunning mk2 you got there.

aussiemr2
17-10-2009, 10:42
Thanks Paul and thanks for the heads up on the ECU, any specific codes causing the cel? worst case I will try and get a manual ECU for it, strange as everything seems the same mechanically, only thing on this particular motor there is no cruise control

antnkel
17-10-2009, 15:03
Looks very nice, liking the red:welcome:
If your going for the supercharger kit will ya be going aftermaket ECU anyway?
Also where abouts are you ?

aussiemr2
17-10-2009, 15:22
Looks very nice, liking the red:welcome:
If your going for the supercharger kit will ya be going aftermaket ECU anyway?
Also where abouts are you ?

Well my initial plans would be to keep stock ECU on low boost as its harder to get an engineers certificate with aftermarket computers

Im in Perth btw but I only moved here from Northern Ireland 6 years ago

antnkel
17-10-2009, 15:32
Easier with the stock ECU then.
I was over there for a few years live huntingdale.
there's a guy of mr2.com I think who's done aload of work on the V6's flupstar he did a turbo 1mz, he's in Perth.

aussiemr2
18-10-2009, 06:55
Easier with the stock ECU then.
I was over there for a few years live huntingdale.
there's a guy of mr2.com I think who's done aload of work on the V6's flupstar he did a turbo 1mz, he's in Perth.

Yea His names Tristan and its a twin turbo monster, theres a cool vid on youtube of him doing a burnout competition at the drags
I havnt had any dealings with him but he may be called in to do some stuff on mine at least the exhaust fabrication

aussiemr2
18-10-2009, 10:20
Put the aftermarket ecu board in the toyota casing....theyll never know. :)

Shhh!! Dont give me ideas, they could be watching :tempted:

aussiemr2
18-10-2009, 11:39
On another note what paint are you guys using to paint the inlet manifold and cam covers?

I noticed in other build threads most people where using primer on the parts which would suggest you are not using heat proof paint, is it necessary on these parts, we dont have smootherite/hammerite over here but do have similar rust proof stuff

I have used VHT brand paint before and it is good stuff but expensive at nearly 9 quid a can but it is bloody hard and acid proof and handles up to 500centigrade

Gouky
18-10-2009, 12:49
On another note what paint are you guys using to paint the inlet manifold and cam covers?

I noticed in other build threads most people where using primer on the parts which would suggest you are not using heat proof paint, is it necessary on these parts, we dont have smootherite/hammerite over here but do have similar rust proof stuff

I have used VHT brand paint before and it is good stuff but expensive at nearly 9 quid a can but it is bloody hard and acid proof and handles up to 500centigrade

I just handed them to my local paint shop which used regular automotive paint. the valve covers should not be getting hot enough to affect normal automotive paint.

that is a very nice car, seems a shame to put in a 3VZ when you have good availability of 2GRs around you.

aussiemr2
18-10-2009, 15:03
The cost of a 2GR at the moment is putting me off, that and the fact I have never done a swap before so wanted to start off easy.maybe in a couple of years after I get used to the V6, its only a weekend driver anyway and will be a massive upgrade from the 3SGE

just1n_mc
01-11-2009, 13:25
Just a quick pointer for you paul, we have bought australian imports like windoms etc in the past and have never been able to use the stock ECU, for some reason Oz 3vz ECU's will throw the CEL on for any reason and it stays on, almost as if they are OBD2 or something, so we use UK ECU's on those.

You can still use the Oz ECU but just be aware you may have a lit CEL

I know the ECU's down here throw the code and engine light for the speed sensor whenever you drive them, but do the UK ECU's log the fault for the speed sensor but don't throw the engine light?? May pay to track down a UK ECU if thats the case.

Down here the revised 200hp ECU's came out in 1996 to replace the old 180hp versions. Is this the case over there??

aussiemr2
02-11-2009, 11:58
I know the ECU's down here throw the code and engine light for the speed sensor whenever you drive them, but do the UK ECU's log the fault for the speed sensor but don't throw the engine light?? May pay to track down a UK ECU if thats the case.

Down here the revised 200hp ECU's came out in 1996 to replace the old 180hp versions. Is this the case over there??

Yea if I do get an engine light I will source another ECU, maybe try and get a JDM 200hp lexus one, seen a few on fleabay

aussiemr2
02-11-2009, 12:24
Bit of an update on how things are moving
Last weekend saw me pull the motor out of the Camry

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/11/12.jpg

Leaving a familiar sight

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/11/13.jpg

This weekend seen me strip off the ancillaries and heads, bores still have hone marks even after 270,000kms

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/11/14.jpg

EGR has to go, carbon build up on intake is crazy

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/11/15.jpg

And Some shiny bits arrived

Fidanza Flywheel

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/11/16.jpg

Exedy Safari Tuff Clutch cover, same as Sports tuff but anodized instead of gay pink and cheaper :-)

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/11/17.jpg

Tried to get a Caldina clutch disc but no do so went with a N/A one instead

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/11/18.jpg
Also got most of my service bits, Full Gasket set, head bolts, new water pump, timing belt kit and new piston rings

I have a mate who works for one of the big car servicing places and he is going to clean all the engine parts in their parts washer for free, it sprays an alkaline cleaning solution at high pressure and temperature for 5 minutes and he tells me every trace of carbon and varnish will go

Snapped 2 bolts removong inlet manifold, one on each head just beside coolant passages which would suggest manifold gasket was leaking slightly.
Any recomendations on how to remove them as im sure i will need to get a bolt back in there or the coolant will leak

aussiemr2
12-11-2009, 12:30
I'm trying to sort everything out for the ultimate gearbox for this swap
Rev2/3 S54 box
MK3 LSD
5th gear mod
Celica supported shaft

I just have a question on the supported shaft as I am a bit confused on the info I have searched, can I use the 3VZ axle carrier with the S54 box and Celica supported shaft or do I need to fabricate a carrier?

Paul Woods
12-11-2009, 12:38
Yes you need to fabricate that

aussiemr2
12-11-2009, 12:41
:-( Thought so, looks ike another job I will have to get someone else to do for me

Thanks for the info Paul

aussiemr2
12-11-2009, 13:05
just had a thought Paul, any chance you have a template for the carrier bracket?

Paul Woods
12-11-2009, 17:55
Yep i have templates for everything, but it is not scanned into the PC.

aussiemr2
15-11-2009, 09:17
Just pickup up a Rev2 S54 gearbox and was told it might have LSD
So I pulled the diff out and we cant tell if it is or not so anyone any ideas?

Pics
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/11/76.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/11/77.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/11/78.jpg

Paul Woods
15-11-2009, 09:25
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/11/79.jpg

Paul Woods
15-11-2009, 09:26
Just noticed, whoever fitted that forgot to bend the little lock tabs back up on the crown wheel bolts, so make sure they are bent back into place.

aussiemr2
15-11-2009, 09:30
ThaNks Paul
any idea what brand?
We actually dropped the lock tabs trying to remove it from the gear to see if it had any markings on it

Paul Woods
15-11-2009, 09:41
Sorry i can't be sure on the brand

aussiemr2
15-11-2009, 13:01
Ha Just noticed the caption on the cat pic
Nice one Paul
Not mine honest, belongs to the guy I got the box from

Paul Woods
15-11-2009, 13:22
They all say that :)

aussiemr2
16-11-2009, 11:22
I did a bit more digging around today and seems I got a TRD Mechanical LSD
Looks very similar to this one for sale on Fleabay

http://cgi.ebay.com/JDM-Toyota-Starlet-TRD-2way-LSD-EP91-EP82-Turbo-AE111_W0QQitemZ350262007817QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_C arsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item518d3e1809

wtfauto
29-11-2009, 20:03
Why haven't I seen this car?? Looks sweet. Good luck and holler if you need anything

-Tristan

aussiemr2
29-11-2009, 22:51
Hi Tristan

I have been following your builds over the years, awesome stuff on the V6 :thumbsup:

The car has been around for a while but i'm usually too busy to go on many of the meets, should really try this summer

At the moment i'm looking for a good deal on getting the heads ported and polished, is that something you can do or can you recommend someone?

wtfauto
03-12-2009, 18:15
Hi Tristan

I have been following your builds over the years, awesome stuff on the V6 :thumbsup:

The car has been around for a while but i'm usually too busy to go on many of the meets, should really try this summer

At the moment i'm looking for a good deal on getting the heads ported and polished, is that something you can do or can you recommend someone?


Cheers

I would recommend placing most of that money elsewhere.. there are cheaper ways to achieve power than extensive port & polish work...a true job is extremely time consuming and expensive.. and I am of the opinion the ports are already quite good. They simply require cleaning up... and a lot of it. I would blend the seats, correct the port floor radius, do a multi angle cut on the valves and port match, nothing more.

At the moment I'm experimenting with porting the combustion chambers instead.. I feel that there is more to be gained here than in the ports themselves. Will have dyno results at the end of next week if all goes well.

Happy to offer that service to you. Give us a call at the shop if you'd like to talk further.
ADMIN EDIT: REMOVED PHONE NUMBER FOR NON-AFFILIATE ADVERT.

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/12/16.jpg

aussiemr2
02-03-2010, 12:21
Time for an update

This was never going to be the quickest swap so bear with me on this one as I am doing all the work myself and its my first engine rebuild

So far got the block cleaned and painted
Crank is in with new main bearings
Pistons are in with new rings and big end bearings
Cylinder honed for new rings, had a slight score in one cylinder so it has been honed to maximum clearance and I just got it honed out which was lucky
New water pump with better flowing impeler
Stripped and cleaned oil pump, hi flowed in similar manner to porting heads, smoothing out casting for better flow
Every nut and bolt gold zinc plated as well as oil baffle and pickup, cannot recommend this enough as the lot only cost me $80 aus which is about 40 quid and looks mint
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/03/15.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/03/16.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/03/17.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/03/18.jpg

Waiting on a head polishing kit arriving so I can get cracking with port and polish on heads and engine will mostly be finished
I am ordering new valve springs from later model 3vzfe as per Tony's thread
but as these are coming from Japan I will have about 4 week to port heads which with my current workload is how long its going to take

Quandry
02-03-2010, 13:28
Nice! it's all clean and shiny - I like this stage :)

aussiemr2
02-03-2010, 14:19
Yea its a shame to hide most of it, im just a fussy git

Looks like my build is probably one of the most complete nut and bolt detailing jobs, nothing in this motor has been untouched by my greasy paws

onyx
03-03-2010, 00:19
hey nice Mr. i wish there were more mr2 owners in South Australia. im pretty sure your diff is not lsd as the diameter where the planetary gear would be looks too small compared to the LSD ones.
im keen to see how you go with the 5th gear mod cause im finding the high revving to be such a waist on long trips.

i have a camry manual box that i think would be good to have in but the gear linkages are an issue. if anyone can figure that out might be an option (there are a few manual camry boxes around)

i also found this. its pretty cheap
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-Helical-LSD-Differential-Toyota-MR2-Spyder-W30-MR-2_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem23012197adQQitemZ1503 42834093QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccess ories#ht_2431wt_939

aussiemr2
03-03-2010, 01:32
I think the general opinion is avoid the OBX stuff, quality is not too good, I was considering it before this trd one came up

I am pretty sure I have a TRD lsd as I have done a lot of research and I have pics of various other TRD diffs and mine is identical, even matches the service manual I have

Did you do a V6 swap if so how do you find it?

onyx
04-03-2010, 06:12
my v6 has been in for over a year now. was pretty easy to get it running i think the mr2 was only down for about 2 weeks.
i now have the ac hooked up again and just wired up the cruise control (so pleased with that).
apart from the $550 to re connect the ac it only cost me $700 to do (this takes in to account selling off camry bits and the 3sge).
in hind sight i wish i'd put a fidanza in and that it had a taller 5th but if i can get my hands in a E531 housing i will just swap the camry gears in to it.
still planning a turbo too.

you will love it when your done even na its so much better than the 3sge

and by the way the Aussie mr2s have an enginbay fan computer next to the ecu and this has to be wired in or the car will not turn off and all the fans go crazy

aussiemr2
04-03-2010, 08:30
Mine has cost me a bit more than $700
The motor only cost me $350 but everything is being rebuilt so at least I will have that piece of mind
Maybe see about adding a supercharger to it down the track

I am hoping that when it comes to the actual fitting that mine wont take more than 2 weeks to do, mind you my MR2 is not a daily driver so time is not really an issue

Spook
04-03-2010, 12:30
That is an absolutely beautiful car mate!

never been a fan of red but that darker red suits it fine with the kit, Honda's Milano red looks quite similar from here, cant wait till you have the V6 running

in fact your pics have made me pause & reconsider my colour choices ; )

aussiemr2
07-07-2011, 13:26
Its about time for a BIG update!!!, the engine is now fully built and I will probably be mating it to the gearbox this weekend
The plans for this build have changed a few times over the last 2 years so I am really happy it has now got this far, it is definately not a Chris Woods build :-)
So the current spec is as follows

1993 Camry 3vzfe with 270,000kms on the clock
Block overbored and honed 1mm to accept new pistons, also deck skimmed for headgaskets
Heads have 1996 valve springs fitted which seem to compress easier and makes me think this is part of the magic sauce that gives the later revision 3vz the extra 20hp
Heads ported and polished by me then one of the companies i do work for are cylinder head reconditioners skimmed and rebuilt the heads
Inlet manifold ported and polished
New ACL 1mm oversized pistons made my Mahle Ceramic coated and dry lubricant on the skirts
Perfect Circle Piston Rings
New Rod bolts
Ferriday Bimetal headgaskets
New standard bearings
New genuine Toyota water pump
New Toga performance high flow oil pump
New timing belt kit
Sonic cleaned and flow tested injectors
TRD 71c thermostat
TRD 1.3 bar radiator cap
TRD Oil cap
New Distributor cap
New rotor
New NGK Platinum Spark plugs
New NGK spark plug leads
Aeromotive copy Fuel presssure regulator with genuine pressure diaphragm fitted
ARP head bolts cut to suit
ARP Main bolts cut to suit
Fidanza Camry Flywheel
Exedy Caldina clutch disc
Exedy Safari Tuff Pressure plate
ARP 4age flywheel bolts, measured up and dont need cut
Rev2 S54 gearbox with TRD mechanical LSD and extended 5th gear all refreshed with new seals
1996 M/T ECU
Woodsport improved engine mount
Woodsport supported shaft carrier bracket

I think thats about it so heres a few pics of 3vz porn

Shiny TRD LSD

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/24.jpg

Gearbox in the process of being rebuilt

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/25.jpg

Gearbox Finished

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/05/103.jpg

Ceramic coated pistons

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/26.jpg

Pistons fitted with Ferriday Gaskets

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/27.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/28.jpg

Heads back from being skimmed

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/29.jpg

Not a great shot but gives an idea of the port and polishing

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/30.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/31.jpg

Cleaned injectors

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/32.jpg

Inlet manifold cleaned up

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/33.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/34.jpg

New core plugs

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/35.jpg

Shot down fitted inlet manifold

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/36.jpg

And a couple of shots of how it has all come together

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/37.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/38.jpg

racerADS
07-07-2011, 14:03
Oh my god that is utter utter V6 porn.

*Subscribed*

Very impressed with the attention to detail. Who cares how long it takes, as long as when you are finished you have achieved what you set out to. Great update :)

hmmmmm
07-07-2011, 18:29
Now there's an update, lovely stuff mate! Are the pistons off the shelves or a custom job?

Goldy
07-07-2011, 18:44
Really tidy build that, keep the pictures coming!

aussiemr2
07-07-2011, 22:30
Now there's an update, lovely stuff mate! Are the pistons off the shelves or a custom job?

The pistons are off the shelf parts, I just got them ceramic coated in preparation for the Scion supercharger that will get added later
I didnt see the point in going for Forged ones as I am only looking for about 300hp

The ACL pistons are pretty cheap, I think I only paid about $50 for them and they are manufactured for them by Mahle so should be a lot better piston than stock, I think someone mentioned somewhere that on the 1mzfe the Mahle was a stronger piston than the Aisin ones

I was reading another build thread somewhere for a 4agze and noticed the stock pistons where ceramic coated so thought if its good enough for Toyota its good enough for me, again its relatively cheap to have done

hmmmmm
08-07-2011, 00:01
Ah that makes sense, was wondering where you were going with the upgraded springs, headgaskets and pistons :)

aussiemr2
08-07-2011, 00:43
Ah that makes sense, was wondering where you were going with the upgraded springs, headgaskets and pistons :)

If you look back a bit through my build, I very nearly had the motor built with normal pistons and gaskets, then I decided to supercharge it which changed everything
I will not be adding the supercharger right away but I really wanted the motor solid in preparation for it

aussiemr2
08-07-2011, 00:53
There are few untried things in this build, one of which is using ARP studs on the main cradle
This worked out fine but 2 of the studs and its nuts need to be ground down to allow clearance for the oil pan
These need to be level with the oil pan mating surface on the block

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/43.jpg

aussiemr2
08-07-2011, 00:55
Received the new Woodsport mount today and fitted already
It arrived a bit scuffed up from traveling around the world but I will repaint it this weekend

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/44.jpg

aussiemr2
08-07-2011, 00:56
This gives an Idea of how shiny the oil pickup is after zinc plating

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/45.jpg

aussiemr2
08-07-2011, 01:01
Heres some more random pics

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/46.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/47.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/48.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/49.jpg

aussiemr2
08-07-2011, 01:07
Another thing I came across was working out the difference between a TRD 1.5 way and 2 way LSD
Everywhere you read it says most Mr2 LSD's are switchable but I could find nowhere that said how
well after a lot of searching and stripping my own unit I can tell you how it is done

This is the inside of the Trd Lsd

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/50.jpg

This is it set to 1.5 way

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/51.jpg

This is it set to 2 way

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/07/52.jpg

The difference is in the angle of the diamond, in the 2 way the left and right side are equal so the lsd has same effect on acceleration and deceleration

On the 1.5 way the left hand angle is more shallow so there is less effect on deceleration

It works by pushing apart the clutch packs so as you can see it is easier for the shaft to ride up a shallower angle hence more force on the clutch packs

This is for an N/A gearbox but I am pretty sure the Tubby one would be the same

Goldy
08-07-2011, 12:48
Fantastic info there!

snowtigger
08-07-2011, 12:55
Brilliant have wondered how the LSD diff can be changed from 1.5 to 2 this is a fantastic bit of info and should be sticked into drive train.

aussiemr2
11-07-2011, 07:35
Brilliant have wondered how the LSD diff can be changed from 1.5 to 2 this is a fantastic bit of info and should be sticked into drive train.

I could probably just put up a post in drivetrain and if admin want to sticky it thats ok by me
Tbh I have mostly mentioned this so if anyone else searches for it there at least will be some information available, hard to believe there is no mention of this anywhere on the net, well at least in the searching I did

Whore of Babylon
12-07-2011, 06:05
Seems youve done a lot of research. could you tell a fellow Aussie id the LSD in the E153 is the same as a S54? cheers.

aussiemr2
12-07-2011, 06:22
Seems youve done a lot of research. could you tell a fellow Aussie id the LSD in the E153 is the same as a S54? cheers.

The actual LSD in the E153 is different but im pretty sure if you strip it and it has the 2 holes in the housing it will be switchable
Also I think this will only apply to the TRD one not the OEM

racerADS
15-07-2011, 07:37
Hi there, can i ask how thick your bi-metal head gaskets are please? 0.6 or 1.0mm.

Cheers

Adam

aussiemr2
15-07-2011, 08:59
Hi there, can i ask how thick your bi-metal head gaskets are please? 0.6 or 1.0mm.

Cheers

Adam

I got the 1mm ones

Paul

adamh
16-07-2011, 19:01
looking very good paul.

aussiemr2
03-11-2011, 04:13
Little update

I have been slowly plodding away with this swap and over the last few months saw me remove the 3sge and replace the leaking heater lines above the fuel tank

here is where they exit the firewall, the fuel tank does push on them a little but I put foam anywhere it seemed to rub

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/11/12.jpg

I got anew clutch line made up in braided Goodridge hose

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/11/13.jpg

Also the fuel feed from the tank was badly rusted, funny as nothing else in that area was, so I replaced it with braided and Earl's fittings as I had some left from the bits I bought to do the main lines to engine

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/11/14.jpg

Got the engine in without much trouble, I actually put a board across the legs of the engine crane and as I lifted rear of car slid it all under, worked pretty good

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/11/15.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/11/16.jpg

Got all the fuel lines connected last night and connected the fuel pump up directly to a battery to test for leaks, I turned up the pressure on the Fpr to 60 psi to really stress the system as it only needs 41 psi standard, boy does the Walbro pump whine :-)

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/11/17.jpg

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/11/18.jpg

Small Video of the Walbro noise, there is hardly any fuel in the tank so once it is completly submerged it should get quieter, actually not too bad in the cabin but I will be putting Dynamat over the centre tunnel to help

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/11/19.jpg (http://s738.photobucket.com/albums/xx25/juno53/?action=view&current=IMG_0151.mp4)

Hopefully tonight I will get the radiator lines connected and fill it up with coolant to check for leaks

adamh
03-11-2011, 06:58
that is looking cracking :icon_mrgreen:

Paul Woods
03-11-2011, 07:00
This is all being done to a very high standard, fantastic stuff.

aussiemr2
03-11-2011, 07:36
Thanks guys, I wouldnt be this far on without your help

I will probably take a couple of days off work next week to wire it all up, I am following Paul's guide with a few additions of my own to retain cruise control, aircon idle up, full diagnostic port, cooling fan ecu and Mrel if I can get it to work. All the extra wiring has been incorporated into the loom to make it a bit easier. Actually looks really scary when you look at the stripped back loom ;-(

Btw quick plug for the iPhone 4s, all the latest pics where taken on it and they have blown me away

briweekes
03-11-2011, 18:14
Lots of hours gone into that, looks great! I think I'm at the same stage as you, with my swap. Pipes done coolant is in, wiring starts tomorrow (must take time out to read the guide, rather than just scan it)..

EEngineer
23-11-2011, 02:30
never knew the 3vz would look this good!
my "3vz-fe" facebook group would love some pictures of your beauty!

aussiemr2
13-12-2011, 07:50
Bit of an update, dont need to say too much!!! :-)

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/12/67.jpg (http://s738.photobucket.com/albums/xx25/juno53/?action=view&current=IMG_0209.mp4)

First Start, just need to tighten belt a bit and connect front torque mount but I am well chuffed

racerADS
13-12-2011, 10:46
Awesome work mate! Really good to see it in and running. The video is definitely missing a scream of delight and some dancing :)

aussiemr2
13-12-2011, 12:52
Ha, I felt like jumping, its been a long 2 years

racerADS
13-12-2011, 13:31
That really doesn't matter mate! You have kept at it and as a result have a fantastic example of brutalised MR2 :)

briweekes
13-12-2011, 19:57
Bit of an update, dont need to say too much!!! :-)

First Start, just need to tighten belt a bit and connect front torque mount but I am well chuffed

Great stuff!!! what a good feeling eh, well done aussiemr2 :-)

aussiemr2
20-01-2012, 11:54
Just got the car back from exhaust shop
They made up equal length stainless downpipes and merge and we where able to use front bank exhaust manifold on the rear bank, it was pretty tricky for them to clear the supported shaft bearing carrier but I am happy that it worked

I didnt get a chance to take pics at the shop as it was done by the time I got there but I will jack it up this evening and take a few pics

When I got it delivered back home I took it for its Maiden voyage and happy to say it made 10 minutes of driving around the neighborhood with only a few slight issues

2nd gear pulls like crazy lol, it just hits you after 1st and I am not even ragging it yet, feels very different but cannot compare directly to before as this is a rev3 S54 and my last one was a Rev1 so gearing is slightly different

Things to do

1: Slight leak from coolant hose, looks like it just needs tightened

2: If I press clutch pedal all the way in it seems like the release bearing or pressure plate fingers are hitting the clutch disc slightly, if i release it just a fraction noise goes away, hope its just a matter of adjusting the pedal so the slave rod doesnt travel as far, maybe someone can enlighten me
If I push the pedal most of the way in it changes gear super smooth right through into 5th so im happy all my gearbox mods worked

3: Slight whistle from engine bay which I assume is a vacuum leak to investigate


Took a short video, not the best sounding but it gives an idea, it has a lovely ripping sound on the upper end of the revs but pretty mild before then, dont worry the engine was well warmed up before I did this :-)

http://youtu.be/pOW6GulBZOg

So safe to say this could pretty much be added to the swap Register as of today :-)

aussiemr2
20-01-2012, 14:27
Heres how the Y pipe looks

Not bad but the welds could have been better, not sure about polishing it I may get it ceramic coated when I get the Manifolds done, this will bring them up as good as chrome and keep the heat down a fair bit too

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2012/01/320.jpg

aussiemr2
22-01-2012, 10:17
Did some more shakedown testing today

This thing is bloody scary!!!

I can only drive it around the backstreets at the moment as I havnt put rear bumper back on yet but the pull in 2nd Is amazing, once the ACIS kicks on at 4000rpm it literally takes off like a turbo kicks in and the exhaust note is just perfect

Cruise control doesn't work so need to check my wiring on that, but otherwise seems pretty smooth and I havnt even checked the timing yet lol

cdwood2010
22-01-2012, 10:49
Excellent!

These are very forgiving engines, we rebuilt pats 3VZ and it ran first fire. I think we checked the timing a couple of weeks after it was back on the road.

It's a shame we live in civilisation - I really love the sound of a V6 with open pipes.....

Chris.

aussiemr2
22-01-2012, 11:13
The day I picked up the car from the exhaust place they had just finished an exhaust system on a big block chevy V8 and it was still louder than the 3vz running on open headers, and he wanted to drive it on the street lol, exhaust guy said no chance

cdwood2010
22-01-2012, 11:21
We actually made our own Y section for Pat's V6 (JapScrap) and despite the fact it took us all day, its still onm the car a year later. Pat replaced one of the flexis, but aside from that it's still holding together!

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2011/03/181.jpg

aussiemr2
22-01-2012, 11:25
I wish I had the skills to weld my own stuff up but I am too fussy that it wouldnt look good enough even though its under the car where no one can see it

cdwood2010
22-01-2012, 13:50
I wish I had the skills to weld my own stuff up but I am too fussy that it wouldnt look good enough even though its under the car where no one can see it

Yeah, take a close look at my welding, its not art! But it works a treat! You can always paint it / heat wrap it!

Chris.

aussiemr2
13-04-2012, 14:04
Have not had much of a chance to update this for a while
Things got a bit stressful lately with building our new house and a few failed pregnancies :-(

Trying to get back on track and tidy up all the loose ends

So far I have driven about 1200km on the build and it's going great
It does stall once every trip which does confirm even the M/T ecu suffers from the iscv problem, I am convinced it is to do with the mrel feed from ecu to ignition relay and will tackle this next as I have a good baseline to compare

Originally cruise control did not but traced it down to the tps being slightly out of adjustment and IDL not being activated , strangely this did not seem to affect the normal running of the engine

Got aircon working but cost me a small fortune as no one would just join the rubber lines do I had to get new ones made up, then discovered compressor was really noisy so had to buy a new one

The TRD LSD is interesting to drive with, it only chatters if I go around corners in too high a gear, also if you lug the engine a bit like say trying to do 20kmph in 3rd it chatters like a bag of spanners
Basically you have to keep the LSD torqued so the clutch discs can grab so it does change your driving style quite a bit
Also strange if you change gear on a gradual sweeping bend the back end tries to kick straight slightly when you reapply torque, funny feeling to get used to initially

Getting what looks like very slight weeping of oil from front head gasket, not sure if I will get away with retorquing head bolts, was not going to do it as I was advised it was not necessary but can think of no other reason why it would be leaking

Other than that it has been running great and my butt dyno is telling me it must easily be putting out in the 250hp range with the mods I have done, feels like way more power than a standard rev1 turbo I drove a while ago

ESBJIUJITSU
02-11-2012, 19:38
Really great build! Very similar to what i will be doing. Any progress on the TRD scion sc?

aussiemr2
08-11-2012, 02:15
No progress on Charger, fabrication is not really my skill and I cannot afford to take it in somewhere to get done so looks like I will have to wait for someone elso to do it and start selling some mounting hardware :-(

ESBJIUJITSU
08-11-2012, 14:50
any plans to dyno? Interested to see what your build yeilded in na power! Also do you have an exact link on the pistons you used? thank you!

aussiemr2
06-01-2013, 14:35
I have been getting a slight overheat issue when sitting it traffic
Basically temp gauge will slowly creep up and if I rev up a bit it will drop pretty quickly
Using a genuine Toyota water pump so I can rule that out
Seems to be an airlock but when I try to bleed system I run into a problem, when you use the service hoses in frunk and balance the coolant levels you are supposed to clip radiator cap to first position and run engine to burp out any air left in system
My problem is when I do this coolant shoots out of the hose connected to the heater tap, is this normal or should I be closing the taps before doing this ?
The only other thing us I have bypassed my heater core at the moment as it leaks, I just joined the hoses in front
Could it be head gasket failure pressurising coolant as I do hear a lot if gurgling when I turn engine off

Goldy
06-01-2013, 18:41
You've probably got a knackered rad cap and air lock, I had similar symptoms. I only use the taps when filling, open them up and top the system up, the close taps leave the rad cap off and start the engine, then keep squeeszing the coolant pipes and topping up to until no more air comes out. That's my method anyway!

aussiemr2
06-01-2013, 22:03
It's a new TRD rad cap so I think it should be ok
Maybe I will try closing the taps with rad cap off like you say
I don't think I had this problem with the old 3SGE engine

adamh
06-01-2013, 22:32
i have always done the same as si, top hose cap off, bleed pipes open, massaged the top hose, then fill the rad cap till its topped...massage hose some more..check front...suck on the bleed pipes...it draws air through which otherwise sits top rad, massage back again. i do it until i cant get any more air from bleed pipes.. and cant fit anymore into top hose cap. put cap on, shut bleeds, then fill the expansion tank to top level, take it for a run upto temp, let it cool see what happens. once its totally cool, remove top hose cap, the level should be full to top as poss, any gaps ....fill some more, never had a problem with airlocks except iacv valves sometimes bouncy idle until bled etc, iacv also bounces when you get some air into system through leak. checked your ign timing since you built?

aussiemr2
07-01-2013, 00:05
I bypassed the coolant from throttle body and iacv so dont think that will be an issue
Also my timing was done and currently sitting at 17 degrees, I know its pretty advanced but we know these motors can handle it plus I always use 98 octane fuel
maybe I just need to do as you say Adam and suck on hoses a bit, actually makes sense that cooant pisses out of top bleed hose as heater circuit is always pumping, just dont remember having that problem with old engine :(
My feeling is when the temp gauge creeps up its just the clock temp sensor getting an airlock at top of inlet manifold and blipping the throttle gets the coolant going again
Always been a bit stressed about using the Ferriday Bimetal gaskets as I never retorqued the ARP head bolts after running in and always been on the back of my mind that I could have a gasket failure at some point, Paul Woods assures me he has never needed to retorqued them and he has used quite a few

Goldy
07-01-2013, 21:13
Just a thought have you checked the thermostat is opening?

aussiemr2
07-01-2013, 22:34
Thermostat is a TRD one and was fitted new
Engine warms up ok so I assume its working ok
The overheat doesn't always happen and I do have air in the system as it gurgles when I turn the engine off

adamh
07-01-2013, 23:03
hello paul, try a regular mrT stat. good shout on the check G..when the needle is up there, midway on the gauge or wherever the mk2 needle sits at normal temp (82 deg) go feel the entry pipe at rad. if the pipe is cold with the needle at normal position the stat cant be opening in time ,was it possible to mount the wrong way also?

aussiemr2
08-01-2013, 11:53
I do have another MrT stat but the TRD one is a genuine with same build quality,it just opens at 71c
i need to get rid of all the air and see if it stays away first i think

aussiemr2
30-01-2013, 13:09
Ok, further testing and I am getting champagne micro bubbles in coolant filler even after engine has warmed up, sometimes burps up bigger bubbles
need to get a hydrocarbon test to confirm HG but so far no oil in coolant or coolant in oil
Always had the ferriday gaskets on the back of my mind even though they have been used many times,
Is it worth retorquing the ARP head studs first before I right off the gaskets?, Ferriday do recommend a retorque even thought Paul Woods suggested in was not neccessary, would take half the time stripping the motor to do this first

Problem has got more serious as now I have a new job and lost company car so rely on Mr2 more than before :(

aussiemr2
31-01-2013, 01:00
Just planning for a worst case scenario, has anyone replaced head gaskets on 3vz with engine in car?

aussiemr2
02-02-2013, 14:29
Ok just did a tk test which is the one that tests for carbon monoxide in coolant
Test showed up nothing even with bubbles coming out of filler neck
Seems like I have a really bad airlock that bleeding is not fully clearing
I know mr2s are a bitch to bleed but I never had this much bother the 2 other times I bled the old 3sge, seems like the 3vz makes it a fair bit harder

adamh
02-02-2013, 18:37
i reckon its doable fo th retorque, if your having trouble, invest some time into a 2nd motor. take the pressure off, sell it on once problem solved. can you se any pink drips (dryed out even) around or under and pipe joins. by the way...if i remember there was a pipe paul.w changes as standard because of erosion, i think it was on the bottom of the bulkhead.

i found a coolant leak i would never have known was there without looking close... i found some dryed up pink residue on the alternator, i made a link in the water inlet pipe above it, it must have leaks when hot.

thought about pressurising the coolant system ? theres a procedure / figure in manual it should perform to, you could ask mrT to run a pressure check if you dont have the tool

adamh
02-02-2013, 18:40
sounds like airs getting in somewhere, fwiw those C clips which overlap are shyte.

aussiemr2
03-02-2013, 14:08
found one leak today in top radiator bleed valve, put a new o-ring on it and re-bled system
will see if this helps, still got a little bit of gurgling after switching engine off so will keep topping it up when cold and see if air lock goes away

adamh
03-02-2013, 18:05
good luck. if you pressurised the top hose you would find the weakest link... if it was external.

aussiemr2
04-02-2013, 00:01
Thanks Adam, might see if I can borrow the tool to pressurise the system
I think having the TRD 1.3 bar cap does help a bit to find leaks, my heater core leaked like a bitch after installing it and it is currently bypassed

vish
04-02-2013, 21:10
hey mate - nice build! looks like you've put a hell of a lot of work into it.

where abouts in WA are you from?

Two of my best mates (who both helped remove and refit my v6 and do a hell of a lot of work on it) are heading out to Perth early March for a year of work/fun. Just wondering on their behalf whether there's any good Perth car forums or where you guys head out for cruises/drives.