View Full Version : Lee's 2GR V6 Swap Thread
How premature I hear you say!
Well in preparation for the this swap I decided it's about time I pulled my finger out and pull out my current VZ. I disconnected everything which was nice and easy as it was very recently converted by Woodsport and they had kindly put a copper grease on a lot of the bolts, Cheers! :thumbsup:
I wasn't sure if I was going to tackle this myself, but thought I'd put my faith in Gouky's kit to get the main things mechanically sorted. Then wade in eyes very firmly open when trying to wire in the 2GR to the MR2 electrics and useing a conventional throttle so I can use my LinkG4 Storm ECU that I purchased for supercharging the VZ.
So a few days ago I got everything prepared for removing, then I had to wait for my engine crane to arrive. It arrived Saturday, so I built it up and then this happened :)
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/286.jpg
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/287.jpg
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/288.jpg
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/289.jpg
And the obligatory engine swap photo:
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2009/08/290.jpg
I've never done anything like this and feel quite chuffed that I managed to remove it on my own, although for dragging the engine out from underneath the 2 I had to concede I was too weedy to drag it myself and despite using a 2 ton crane and sling I didn't fancy getting underneath a raised car. So the missus's fiesta and a tow-rope sorted that part out :) I've lost skin on most my fingers and have bruises galore, but feel like I accomplished something, so to get an engine in and running must feel fantastic!
Gearbox is off the VZ block as I'm keeping it for my 2GR, been a turbo box and has the LSD and Fidanza flywheel. Fuelling is sorted as there is already a Walbro fitted. So now a case of tidying up the empty engine bay in preparation for the engine arriving. :boogie:
Great start there Lee!
I can't wait to see the threads from the 2GR's and the power outputs of the stock vs aftermarket ECU's!
Great start there Lee!
I can't wait to see the threads from the 2GR's and the power outputs of the stock vs aftermarket ECU's!
Me too, it was the slightly weird way the auto ECU's work on the VZ that made aftermarket a definite this time for me.
Apparently Thor have pre-release firmware for the 2GR to run the dual VVTi to try out. I'm quite anxious to see how that turns out :)
Great news :)
You'll just need to get Lyndon or Ryan to map it then?
That's the plan :)
Not hoping for a big increase in power, but hope driveability and an increased redline make things a bit fruitier
Nice one Lee! Looking forward to watching this one.
millentubby
10-08-2009, 00:50
Great to see you're still smiling fella!
Best of luck with the swap - can't wait to see it finished :)
Fantastic, never thought i'd see the day when people started dragging 3VZ's out for going to something even bigger - (except for Woods of course :) )
Paul Woods
10-08-2009, 07:36
Love the obligatory TB standing in engine bay shot :) , any help you need at all lee just ask.
Great feeling when the engine is out, and all by yourself. Bruises and scraped knuckles are a must for any swapper. :thumbsup:
snowtigger
10-08-2009, 13:19
Learning to swear in several languages is a must also if you don't get a few bumps and bangs along the way your not doing it right.
I'll do my best to answer any questions you have durring the build. i can't wait to see what you do with this engine with an aftermarket ECU. keep in mind Lotus is spinning this engine to 7000. so you're safe to at least that level.
I'm guessing that if it's closed loop on the VVTi cam control then you can have it a bit more aggressive in the cams angle for a bit more power, but more for the crispness of the throttle.
Either way, I'm sure it won't disappoint!
Diesel Meister
10-08-2009, 17:47
Awesome work Lee - keep this thread regulary updated once the package arrives :thumbsup:
I'm sure the rest of the GB will be especially interested, as well as any future takers. How many Mk1s besides me and Tigger?
Hi Lee, good to see that your not that keen on the swap :).
Will the link be ok for the 2gr if you change the throttle body over?
looks like an awesm build cant wait to see the results
Thanks for the encouragement everyone, certainly think I will need it at points! :)
I'll definitely be asking quite a few questions too, hopefully learn a lot from this. The mechanics doesn't faze me too much, it's the electrics I have to admit are the real worry. I had a look at the rest of the cars wiring loom and it has really been butchered by previous owners, also the place that fitted my now useless alarm did a real cowboy job on it. I'm tempted to pull it out and put a fresh unmolested one in.
Phil-The G4 Storm is fitted to a Mk2 2GR Rogue converted, he uses it for rallys. Currently it's running the engine without utilising the VVTi, I emailed Link and they hoped to release a firmware update. That pre release firmware is currently with Thor who imagine will try it out. So it's looking pretty much a cert in the near future :thumbsup:
SlipSlide
10-08-2009, 20:23
Good luck with the build, looking forward to the video and dyno.
Thanks for the encouragement everyone, certainly think I will need it at points! :)
I'll definitely be asking quite a few questions too, hopefully learn a lot from this. The mechanics doesn't faze me too much, it's the electrics I have to admit are the real worry. I had a look at the rest of the cars wiring loom and it has really been butchered by previous owners, also the place that fitted my now useless alarm did a real cowboy job on it. I'm tempted to pull it out and put a fresh unmolested one in.
Phil-The G4 Storm is fitted to a Mk2 2GR Rogue converted, he uses it for rallys. Currently it's running the engine without utilising the VVTi, I emailed Link and they hoped to release a firmware update. That pre release firmware is currently with Thor who imagine will try it out. So it's looking pretty much a cert in the near future :thumbsup:
Nice one mate:thumbsup:
boyleonthebum
11-08-2009, 10:46
looking good mate :thumbsup:
got a question, do you need to re-use the mount for the 3VZ and the exhaust setup or will you be selling them?
I've got a complete 3VZ engine to sell :)
Someone agreed to buy it but I haven't heard from them for 3 weeks now.
It has done approx 3000 miles since been converted by Woodsport. I needed the gearbox and flywheel for my 2GR conversion so it doesn't have them. However you'd probably need a different flywheel depending on what gearbox you intended on using.
I have:
ECU
Coolant pipework
Engine mount
Fujitsubo stainless exhaust and custom stainless smoothed Y section from manifolds
Everything mechanically and a lot electrically is done ready to fit
Has had a light bit of porting done and was certainly quite nippy. Just needs a bit of engine cleanup (never been one for cleaning engines) and it's ready to fit.
PM me if you're interested
Well the black turbo shell is no more
And here is the new one to recieve the 2GR :)
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/09/258.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/09/259.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/09/260.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/09/261.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/09/262.jpg
It has some questionable mods to remove and the bodywork needs a bit of tittivating, but all a nice solid base.
I've spent the better part of 8 hours peeling the stickers off both sides. Rear lights are replaced with my decent ones. The cheopo alloys with 205's all round are getting binned for the LM's,and the seats are getting replaced with the Recaros.
I'm keeping the turbo running gear from the rev2 for this car as it's an N/A. Also it's waaay too low geared for the S54, revs its nutsoff on the motorway! :)
what's a "G-Limited"?
looks sharp!
g limited is main spec 3sge model in Japan ..UK got same model
but usually with added features that turbo's got in other markets.
UK spec doesn't use JDM badging and had specific emblems for
that market ..
Paul Woods
30-09-2009, 06:53
Nice car lee, exactly the same as beckys :thumbsup:
snowtigger
30-09-2009, 08:27
Love the silver and black roof mk2s only one apart from the convertible in the same color I would buy.
smccullie
30-09-2009, 08:36
Dose that rev have an immobiliser oh hows the engine?
So this is why you needed to send me the engine asap!
Looks very nice, love that colour! Im not going to question the "TRD" stickers.
Thinking about black roofing mine early next year.
Nice car chief, even nicer garage :mrgreen:
what's a "G-Limited"?
looks sharp!
It's the Jap version of the UK 3S-GE but with a lot more toys :)
Dose that rev have an immobiliser oh hows the engine?
Not sure that it does, it has it's own aftermarket immobiliser, got a spare ordinary key and it works the car fine. Engine seems good, drove nearly 300 mile from the place I got it and it was fine. Got a slight mis-fire on idle, but going to check over the plugs/leads and give it a service. I've got to use it as the 2nd car for a while until the 2GR arrives. so will let you know how it is.
So this is why you needed to send me the engine asap!
Looks very nice, love that colour! Im not going to question the "TRD" stickers.
Thinking about black roofing mine early next year.
Yep space is getting a bit tight, got to get someone to collect the shell this week. Those stickers are probably the only TRD part on the car lol They are gone now though:thumbsup:
Nice car chief, even nicer garage :mrgreen:
Cheers, it's my 'man space' :)
snowtigger
30-09-2009, 11:12
I had one of those it got taken over with women and kids and bloody relations now I only have a small man space, but this winter I'm going to do the "if it's not been used in 8 months it's going on the tip" space as I'm fed up with the other halfs crap getting in the way.
I've managed to keep control of it so far by me having the only keys for it on my key ring. It gets locked when I go offshore and it's exactly how I left it when I get home :)
Only concession I've made is xmas decorations and garden stuff, apart from that it's all my stuff :thumbsup:
Only concession I've made is xmas decorations and garden stuff, apart from that it's all my stuff :thumbsup:
Aye, ONLY that. Slippery slope chief lol
Is the shell still rolling?
Probably mate, gone 5 months now with no extra stuff..............so far!
Afraid the shell is sat on the deck in the garage with bugger all on it :)
It's proper scrap man material then, no worries. :)
How much of a difference decent set of wheels, lights and seats make!
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/10/45.jpg
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2009/10/46.jpg
After driving it around for a few days it definitly rides a lot better than my turbo did with the black billies. Also there are no annoying squeaks or wind noise.
The 3S-GE is a wee bit gutless low down though. Looking forward to getting the 2GR in now.
Work has really slowed up recently so lots of free time, but not a huge amount of money. So I may be doing a lot more of this than I planned to keep costs as low as possible. I've bought a Mk4 Golf R32 exhaust for £50 the other day. Should do the job nicely with a bit of work and more importantly for me is it will be reasonably quiet :)
Looks the business Lee... Now hurry up and get those damn pea-shooters from under the rear bumper and lets have some decent zorst noises!
Wheels look gorgeous mate. Sets it off a treat.
Those wheels can lift the look of any car, very fresh. :praise2:
Is that 18's front and back or you still got the 18/17 thing going on?
It's 18 all round now. The 17's were sold a while back.
Touch wood I don't really notice bad ride or handling, seems fine to me. Also gives it a bit more legs for the motorway as the rolling radius is a fair bit bigger with these than the standard wheels. :)
Can i tell you i don't like 'em :hidesbehi
The stance it was on before i thought suited it much better.
If you're not planning on any bodykits methinks the 18's on the front are too big.
It's a forum, people can say what they want :jester:
I have some Greddy sideskirts here that I got from Gtech that I may fit and the car will be going a little bit lower when I change the springs, so that may improve it? As far as bodywork goes, that is it, but still deliberating over that.
I have to admit the 18's on the front look huge. Look ace on the rear though. :blabla:
Aye, when you had 18's on the rear and 17's on the front i jus reckon it looked a bit more sporty :mrgreen:
Well 3 months later and this is safely tucked up in the garage:
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2010/01/328.jpg
The condition of this engine beggars belief, it's like new. It has apparently done 5000 miles so barely run in. Apart from a teeny bit of surface rust on the clamps for the oil cooler water lines it could pass as a brand new crate engine.
I served my time as a CNC machinist and the quality of the engine mount brackets is lovely. Very intricate and done with a machine that cost way more than anything I ever got my fingers on. The modified coolant manifold is very neatly done too. Overall I'm seriously impressed with Gouky's fitting kit. May seem like a bit of an outlay initially, but when you see the quality of the kit you are getting and the work you are saving yourself it is serious value for money.
The headers I'm going to hang on my wall as automotive porn. I thought my old Extremboost downpipe on my turbo was well made but these are flawless. Mirror finish too which was unexpected!
I've changed tack with ECU's and sold the G4 Storm. there was never a conclusive answer if it would run the VVTi. I thought about the G4 Extreme but I reckon the way to go is the Solaris, or Syvecs as it is now known. However that will probably be purchased end of Feb when funds allow.
I intend to make the engine future proof and will eventually be getting one of Marc's supercharger kits. Having an ECU in place that covers all the avenues and an ECU that can be mapped by someone recommended appeals to me.
Anyway first thing first is to get the engine prepped for installing. I'm not one for huge engine detailing and it's clean enough to go straight in. My old man and me are sorting out the garage with flooring tiles and a proper ceiling so the place can be heated. I do not enjoy doing any work in a cold environment as I'm a bit of a softy really :)
Thank you, I appreciate the good words.
I'm looking forward to see what you manage to pull from this motor with that ECU.
all the machine work was actually done on 3 axis machines. it isn't so much a case of expensive machines, but very talented machinists. it's a 3 man shop and it's amazing what they do. they even have parts in the international space station as we speak :thumbsup:
SlipSlide
30-01-2010, 22:00
Watching with interest Lee, hope it all comes together well for you.
The engine looks amazing Lee, good luck mate :thumbsup:
Marc, the quality of the engine, mounts, headers etc is a credit to you. Keep up the good work and hopefully I will be enjoying some 2GR-ness in the not too distant future.
I'm a bit of a softy really
Not been North of the border long enough, ol' chap!
Engine looks shiny!
Diesel Meister
31-01-2010, 11:38
Nice. I'd love a fully equipped garage plus the time for some tinkering - I might actually get around to making it happen one day. Until then, I'll be buying shares in WS lol
Good luck with the swap :thumbsup:
I think I might well subscribe to this build!
The Syvecs should get some nice figures from this! And even more when the SC goes on. Roll on end of Feb, although I don't envy Ryan's drive from Oxford to Kilmarnock! :P
I'll take it off you when your board :) HaHa
Engine looks like a minter and those headers look like a T-1000's hand :)
I want a pair to put on the 3vz :(
Good luck, weathers still bloody cold, least I got the hardwork done inside, you got everything to do inside there ye lucky bugger and heating on the way too, hot tub in the corner with a fridge is a must tbh.
dgh938peg
02-02-2010, 10:24
All the best with this one Lee! :thumbsup:
Well and truly subscribed!
Lee, I spent some time looking at the syvecs ECU and I must say, I’m pretty impressed with the feature list. I can only come up with a few bad things to say about it.
1) It isn't a MAF ECU. But none of the aftermarket ECUs are, this is more of a personal gripe than anything. I wish aftermarket ECUs would get with the times and allow MAF metering to compute the base fuel demand.
2) Initially I thought they only allowed one knock sensor, but they actually allow up to 5 (only one is dedicated). I’m curious if they do wideband (frequency based) knock detection or if it's just a general knock level detection.
But on the good side, they allow closed loop CAM control which is quite nice. They also allow the DBW and can integrate it in the traction control.
I really like how configurable it appears to be. This is definitely a very nice ECU.
I think this is what I’ll be switching to when I find the limit of the stock ECU.
thanks for leading the way forward on this.
Lee, I spent some time looking at the syvecs ECU and I must say, I’m pretty impressed with the feature list. I can only come up with a few bad things to say about it.
1) It isn't a MAF ECU. But none of the aftermarket ECUs are, this is more of a personal gripe than anything. I wish aftermarket ECUs would get with the times and allow MAF metering to compute the base fuel demand.
2) Initially I thought they only allowed one knock sensor, but they actually allow up to 5 (only one is dedicated). I’m curious if they do wideband (frequency based) knock detection or if it's just a general knock level detection.
But on the good side, they allow closed loop CAM control which is quite nice. They also allow the DBW and can integrate it in the traction control.
I really like how configurable it appears to be. This is definitely a very nice ECU.
I think this is what I’ll be switching to when I find the limit of the stock ECU.
thanks for leading the way forward on this.
It's the same as I have on mine, Marc. It's an awesome ECU. The Knock, I think is configurable. Ryan used the KnockBox on mine when mapping and input some knock parameters in to the software.
The closed loop CAM control and the DBW is perfect for this particular engine.
I do vaguely remember a conversation about speed-density on their forum. I'm wondering if I can find it.
Download their software and sample CAL file which opens the software up.
The pinout diagram is in our Download section if you feel like making harnesses up for people to ship out with the engines, should they choose to Syvecs ;)
millentubby
02-02-2010, 16:34
*spaffs in hand and throws at screen*
like :)
It's the same as I have on mine, Marc. It's an awesome ECU. The Knock, I think is configurable. Ryan used the KnockBox on mine when mapping and input some knock parameters in to the software.
The closed loop CAM control and the DBW is perfect for this particular engine.
I do vaguely remember a conversation about speed-density on their forum. I'm wondering if I can find it.
Download their software and sample CAL file which opens the software up.
The pinout diagram is in our Download section if you feel like making harnesses up for people to ship out with the engines, should they choose to Syvecs ;)
I'll download the software tonight and take a look.
are you using the DBW capability? or just a regular throttle on yours?
I'm curious if it can use the DBW throttle to rev-limit the engine safely. it may not be a built in feature, but they appear to have a very customizable scripting language that should allow a user to implement it.
as for the wiring harness bit, i would not hold my breath on that one. but it should honestly not be too difficult for the and user to make their own by just lopping off the stock connector and crimping on the proper pins. if done with the right tools, very little soldering should be required.
I'm just using a standard throttle, but with a Nissan Q45 throttle body, so the Syvecs is controlling the idle there. There are a lot of options to configure the DBW setup - and if you message Pat on the forum that they have, he's the developer and is possibly the cleverest person I've come across automotively. It's not unheard of for them to add a feature quickly for users.
The reason I chose the Syvecs was because it could throttle down the 1000cc injectors for a perfect idle, it's got built in TC and LC and the fine AFR control. I'm also taking advantage of the 8 position Cal switch for different maps/configurations.
I'm just using a standard throttle, but with a Nissan Q45 throttle body, so the Syvecs is controlling the idle there. There are a lot of options to configure the DBW setup - and if you message Pat on the forum that they have, he's the developer and is possibly the cleverest person I've come across automotively. It's not unheard of for them to add a feature quickly for users.
The reason I chose the Syvecs was because it could throttle down the 1000cc injectors for a perfect idle, it's got built in TC and LC and the fine AFR control. I'm also taking advantage of the 8 position Cal switch for different maps/configurations.
Throttling down large injectors like that is quite difficult. i was looking at their capabilities and seeing that they support dual stage injectors and i figured the solution for that lied in there.
I'll definitely see about getting in touch with them. i'd probably buy one of these today if it wasn't for getting a HP number for people with the stock ECU.
I'm afraid to admit that I'm currently having visions of grandeur of a 500WHP 2GR MR2. damn this stuff is addicting!
Throttling down large injectors like that is quite difficult. i was looking at their capabilities and seeing that they support dual stage injectors and i figured the solution for that lied in there.
Isn't it a shame the 2GR-FSE won't fit!
I'll definitely see about getting in touch with them. i'd probably buy one of these today if it wasn't for getting a HP number for people with the stock ECU.
Send a PM to Ryan.G on there, or here. He set my car up and is your man for Toyota + Syvecs.
I'm afraid to admit that I'm currently having visions of grandeur of a 500WHP 2GR MR2. damn this stuff is addicting!
That'd be a hell of a car!
Isn't it a shame the 2GR-FSE won't fit!
don't be so sure, i'm pretty sure it can as long as the proper modifications are done.
Send a PM to Ryan.G on there, or here. He set my car up and is your man for Toyota + Syvecs.
I just shot off an e-mail to syvecs directly about the direct injection possibility. i'll follow up with more questions once they reply. i wonder if they can control it just like a regular injector. the timing is pretty critical.
That'd be a hell of a car!
it already is :)
i've spent the last couple hours in syvecs' tuning software and i've only barely touched what it can do. this is some pretty hardcode software here.
i gotta say, i love it so far. it even appears to have a mode where you can have it just watch what a stock ECU is doing. this could be pretty handy to get the initial tune calibrated.
Yep, it's pretty intense!
I have to admit what the Syvecs is capable of is more or less over my head. I'll leave it to Ryan to set it all up. I'm just going to do similar to what was done with Johnny's motor. Label the required wires to make the ECU run and leave it up to Ryan to put it all into a loom.
How long has Solaris/Syvecs been going? It seems quite a new operation but the chaps behind it obviously have a lot of experience in this specialist area. Has the unit been selling well and is it likely to be supported for a decent amount of time?
I picked up the Golf R32 exhaust the other day. Not too sure about it to be honest. It has a single 2 1/2" inlet, but before that, there is a T section with a butterfly valve directing flow into the side. I imagine it's to open/close at high or low revs but cannot see it been too effective been as the valve is after the T section and most of the gases will pass straight into the box anyway? Purely for noise?
I'd prefer a true dual setup to a single twin outlet box which looks closeish to standard but OEM options are limited.
Here's what it looks like: http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/02/16.jpg
I have to admit what the Syvecs is capable of is more or less over my head. I'll leave it to Ryan to set it all up. I'm just going to do similar to what was done with Johnny's motor. Label the required wires to make the ECU run and leave it up to Ryan to put it all into a loom.
That's best - he makes them up very quickly! Couple of hours for mine IIRC!
How long has Solaris/Syvecs been going? It seems quite a new operation but the chaps behind it obviously have a lot of experience in this specialist area. Has the unit been selling well and is it likely to be supported for a decent amount of time?
Very well. Everyone is using them now on the Supra forum. Some have traded in tried and trusted AEM + Racelogic in favour of Syvecs. Once the MR2 is done, I'm getting my Supra put on it.
It's a new operation, run by Pat and Charlie - who've both got extensive ECU experience, but I think they went alone to raise the bar a little. They've done that! Life-Racing make the boards for them - and they've got extensive motorsport experience.
I think Pat wrote the software for it - and can issue patches for any issues very quickly. Their service really is excellent.
I'd prefer a true dual setup to a single twin outlet box which looks closeish to standard but OEM options are limited.
Thought about Berk?
Very well. Everyone is using them now on the Supra forum. Some have traded in tried and trusted AEM + Racelogic in favour of Syvecs. Once the MR2 is done, I'm getting my Supra put on it.
Good stuff, it's quite an investment and last thing i want to happen is 2 years down the line find out that it's defunct with no support. 8O
Thought about Berk?
I've had a good look at it and I quite like the design. Just be a case of cutting out the Y split and run one bank to each inlet.
Only problem is I had one of the quietest Turbo exhausts you could get on my V6, the Fujitsubo. It was a bit too quiet on the Turbo but after going V6 although it sounded great it was a bit too loud for my tastes. An already loud turbo exhaust fitted to the V6 I imagine would be ear splitting?
One thing I've enjoyed about this standard MR2 I have now is the quietness it goes about its business. Just pisses me off how slow it is and how much I have to change gear :)
One thing I've enjoyed about this standard MR2 I have now is the quietness it goes about its business. Just pisses me off how slow it is and how much I have to change gear :)
Maybe you could go to a local exhaust fabricators and have them build a backbox and silencer on to the back of Gouky's headers?
Have you looked at 911 (996 or 997) exhausts? They'll flow enough power and also aren't overly loud
997 Exhaust (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GENUINE-PORSCHE-911-EXHAUST-MUFFLERS-TYP-997-GEN-2_W0QQitemZ270522221352QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsP arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3efc618328)
Diesel Meister
03-02-2010, 13:39
I'm thinking of that approach JG. Although I'll try with an off the shelf option first so Paul can fit and test it. Hopefully the BB will be realeable if I decide to go custom.
Hope on the Mongoose here
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/toyota-mr2-turbo-exhaust-system-de-cat-mongoose_W0QQitemZ180464585726QQcmdZViewItemQQptZU K_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item2a04870b fe
yeah, I definitely recommend staying away from the berk on the 2GR if you want a quiet exhaust.
you may want to throw a few high-flow cats in there also to smooth out the exhaust flow. they do quite a bit more for noise than your average muffler
Slapping on a brace of turbos will also help that noise factor :rlol:
snowtigger
03-02-2010, 14:57
I may just use my japspeed as that's quite loud and has a big bore pipe, sounds better than some turbo zorst very roarty, I just don't know if it will flow enough volume of air through it as it came of the old 1.6?
I may just use my japspeed as that's quite loud and has a big bore pipe, sounds better than some turbo zorst very roarty, I just don't know if it will flow enough volume of air through it as it came of the old 1.6?
Two hopes there, Mike. One's dead.
You're best either using an aftermarket exhaust from something that produces 250bhp+ from the factory or you'll choke your car and it'll perform horribly.
How about one from a Nissan 350z or 370z
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NISSAN-350Z-REAR-EXHAUST-BOX-280bhp-10-2003-NEW_W0QQitemZ110381965891QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Car sParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item19b3472243
Portgordon
04-02-2010, 14:01
Lee you sound like such an old man saying your exhausts are too loud! Your sticking a stonking big v6 in your car, let it be heard!!
Keeping an eye on this thread for sure - exciting stuff!
decipherer
04-02-2010, 22:38
I have to agree with Lee here. I'm also looking for a quiet exhaust. Have a standard turbo exhaust to go on for the RDW check my car needs to undergo before I can drive it legally over here. But I guess it will hurt performance to keep it there so looking for something a bit more free flowing but still quiet.
Btw, nice engine Lee. And good to see you're using a standalone ecu, I'm very curious to see if it will give you a performance gain. :thumbsup:
Lee you sound like such an old man saying your exhausts are too loud! Your sticking a stonking big v6 in your car, let it be heard!!
Keeping an eye on this thread for sure - exciting stuff!
the man speaks the truth :respekt:
I have to agree with Lee here. I'm also looking for a quiet exhaust. Have a standard turbo exhaust to go on for the RDW check my car needs to undergo before I can drive it legally over here. But I guess it will hurt performance to keep it there so looking for something a bit more free flowing but still quiet.
You need an exhaust from an N/A car - because a quiet MR2 Turbo one will still be louder due to no turbo.
I think the Nissan 370z back box might be a good shout, or anything else that's got a 3.0-4.0 litre displacement.
Btw, nice engine Lee. And good to see you're using a standalone ecu, I'm very curious to see if it will give you a performance gain. :thumbsup:
My guess is that there won't be a huge number differential between the stock and the Syvecs in peak numbers. But, the delivery and midranges might gain from a more aggressive tune with some fuel taken out it can really fly - plus, a hundred more rpm to see where these cams actually give up power.
I can't wait :thumbsup:
the man speaks the truth :respekt:
You know what i'm like mate, I am a fussy one when it comes to noise. If you could have quiet while pootling around doing normal duties, then something that screamed when you were giving it the beans then Lee would be very happy :)
To be honest I think only way I would acheive that is a similar setup to the Aston Martin. Maybe this would work:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/aston-martin-exhaust-DB9-back-box_W0QQitemZ380202582953QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Car sParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item5885d703a9
Looks to have the bypass valves, dual inlet, dual outlet?
Camry back box lol
Seriously I liked the Camry exhaust note :mrgreen: It was unmistakably V6 and had quite a growl to it. Just a shame they would be much too restrictive for the 2GR
dgh938peg
05-02-2010, 11:47
bypass valve FTW Lee!
I'd hate to think the size of that thing and you can bet it wouldn't fit the the MR2's limited space.
But a great idea none the less. I know mr2big is having his exhaust custom made for his 1mz and the guy making it (down here in Kent), the first thing he said to Michael was "how do you want it to sound....."
Now that's a guy i can work with..... I can get his number for you if you like...
Kent to Kilmarnock - now that's a hike!
dgh938peg
05-02-2010, 11:49
LOL! Forgot to look at Lee's location! :)
LOL yep just a bit off the beaten track. On the plus side I can go 'visit' a chap in Southampton who owes me £300. Pay for most of the exhaust :mrgreen:
You've got to be looking around 900 miles return there?
Am guessing there's another £150 for juice!
dgh938peg
05-02-2010, 12:01
Not to mention trailering it as it'd be without an exhaust.....
dgh938peg
05-02-2010, 12:10
May be of some interest.....
Load up the exhaust flaps lee...
http://www.kspg-ag.de/index.php?fid=1693&lang=3
May look into that,but I imagine an exhaust system incorporating one of them is going to be pretty pricey
Well I got the garage fixed up last time I was home. Soaked up 70 litres of emulsion, 7 days of painting, 15 sheets of plasterboard for the roof and 10 packs of garage tiles. Not too shabby looking considering it didn't cost much at all :)
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/3140411/1024/2GR-V6-MR2-conversion/DSC-0004.jpg (http://picturepush.com/public/3140411)
Decided yesterday was time that the V6 conversion should start. The 4 pot has done a sterling job of pottering about but really is a bit lacklustre. Also it was proving difficult to get into 1st and hard to get out of 5th occasionally.
Disconnected most of the engine ready to drop, just got the coolant and gearbox oil to drop when I start again on thurs. Also pulled off the old n/a hubs that will be getting replaced with turbo versions. That took a fair time as most the suspension looks original and untouched. Think it will be worthwhile renewing the bushes etc while I'm at it.
Couldn't help myself and fitted the shiny manifolds along with the new gaskets Marc provides to the 2GR. Replaced the original coolant manifold with the modified one to avoid the optional oil cooler. Test fitted the Fidanza All engine work should be like this, nice and clean with easy access :thumbsup:
Also spent a few hours removing the car loom from the kickpanel back, and the engine loom from the 2GR. The amount of wires and connectors on that loom is insane!
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/3140479/1024/2GR-V6-MR2-conversion/DSC-0017.jpg (http://picturepush.com/public/3140479)
I've decided I simply do not have the time to spend days wiring and possibly fault finding electrical problems. So have decided to send the looms to Phoenix Tuning in the US. It 'should' come back literally plug and play. I'll wait and see how it turns out. :)
I've decided to stick with the original ECU for the timebeing, it seems to respond very well once the standard restrictions have been removed.
Also my priority is getting it running for this season fault free. I still have the Syvecs in mind once the conversion has proved reliable and there is a decent timeframe with the car off the road
Thursday and Friday will see the old engine removed, drop the fuel tank for the Walbro fuel pump, change over gear linkages for the turbo box, etc etc the list is pretty long :)
Exciting times chief! Just let me know when you want an extra pair of hands and i'll be over to make the tea lol
Diesel Meister
24-03-2010, 22:15
More 2GR goodness - nice garage space too :thumbsup:
Exciting times chief! Just let me know when you want an extra pair of hands and i'll be over to make the tea lol
Cheers matey will give you a shout when everything is ready to get put back in, just getting all the donkey work out the way at the moment :)
Spent most of today getting the old engine out which was fun :rolleyes:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/3146839/1024/2GR-V6-MR2-conversion/DSC-0018.jpg (http://picturepush.com/public/3146839)
But it's out and swinging from the engine crane waiting for a buyer :)
Tomorrow I'm dropping the fuel tank and putting in the Walbro which I cannot wait to do :shifty:
Ocht it's over-rated the tank drop, no really that bad. Unless it's full?
decipherer
25-03-2010, 22:06
Can't believe how clean you garage is! And the car too btw, looking good there! Good luck with your swap, will be following this one closely as I do with every 2GR swap on here ;)
Should only have the odd gallon in as the low fuel light was lit.
Learnt my lesson from breaking the Black V6. It was only once I'd got the whole weight of the tank on my chest while laying on the garage floor that I remembered I should have siphoned it out :doh: :whistle:
Can't believe how clean you garage is! And the car too btw, looking good there! Good luck with your swap, will be following this one closely as I do with every 2GR swap on here ;)
Cheers fella, I have to admit I like to work in a clean tidy environment. Drive the guys at work nuts as they say I'm always tidying/putting stuff away. :shifty:
I keep a close eye on the 2GR threads too, always good to get a heads up on any pitfalls that others come across. :)
Diesel Meister
25-03-2010, 23:15
One big, happy vvti'd family lol
Today didn't seem like I acheived much.
I dropped the fuel tank to fit the walbro. Really didn't want to come out but got there eventually.
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/3152534/1024/2GR-V6-MR2-conversion/DSC-0026.jpg (http://picturepush.com/public/3152534)
The difference in fuel pumps is opposite to what you expect, the walbro is quite small in comparison
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/3152538/1024/2GR-V6-MR2-conversion/DSC-0027.jpg (http://picturepush.com/public/3152538)
Got that back in and all fixed up including coolant and aircon pipework.
Apparently one of the linkages is a different length on n/a's to turbo's. I'm fitting a turbo box and luckily kept the old linkages from when I broke my last V6. Wasn't sure which one that was different but the cables all had diiferent ID colours on them. So to be on the safe side I changed them both. Saves any problems later on and i knew they were good on the last car.
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/3152540/1024/2GR-V6-MR2-conversion/DSC-0028.jpg (http://picturepush.com/public/3152540)
Once they were in I put most of the interior back in.
Had a bit of spare time so replaced the old fuel filter with a new turbo version. Also cleaned up some of the engine bay parts that were looking a bit rusty. Wire brush and hammerite sorted them out.
Tomorrow will be cleaning up more of the engine bay and removing anything not required.
Quick question- This car has a load of fuel evaporation lines and a seperator on the bulkhead. Can I ditch all this?
Diesel Meister
27-03-2010, 08:32
Sweet - nice work!
I'm going to envy the Mk2 guys on longer trips methinks. But I'll have the benefit of the same engine and gearbox at least lol
DM, you'll be fine in the Mk2, just make sure the suspension isn't crashy, that's the key!
High flow sports Catalytic converters.
My car needs one to pass the MOT, I've no experience of these so is something like this suitable?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220570828891&_trkparms=tab%3DWatching
If I got a bolt on version I guess I could get the company doing the Y pipe to do a simple decat section. Although if it would prove very little restriction and reduce the volume level with the exhaust I have bought (another Fujitsubo) then I suspect a weld on version would be used as a permanent solution
Thoughts?
decipherer
01-04-2010, 11:16
Are you sure you would need one to pass MOT? I'm not sure how it works in the UK, but my car (originally a '91 na) only needs to pass '91 regulations. Which means they only test for CO2. I'm going to try this without a cat first. Only if it fails I will install a cat.
dgh938peg
01-04-2010, 11:20
95 on needs a cat for MOT - seeing as Lees is a sonic shadow im guessing its fresher than that
Diesel Meister
01-04-2010, 11:32
Yeah Lee's car looks like a 96-97 reg.
Sports cat will help control volume a bit and shouldn't harm flow. Also, Fujitsobo's are nice bits of kit imo :thumbsup:
Yep it's a 97 so no way round it and bought with the full knowledge of that.
I'd have liked to get under the 95 rule but majority I saw were pretty rough mechanically.
Diesel Meister
01-04-2010, 12:55
Condition of the base car is more important imo - I would have got a later AW11 but all the Mk1bs I saw were in worse condition! I've resigned myself to fighting rust for pretty much as long as I own the car though. If it gets too bad, I'll find a Mk2 shell and a supercharger lol
snowtigger
01-04-2010, 13:32
Wash your mouth out saying Mk2, now go stand in the corner and recite a 100 times I shall not stick my 2gr into a lard mobile.
Condition of the base car is more important imo - I would have got a later AW11 but all the Mk1bs I saw were in worse condition! I've resigned myself to fighting rust for pretty much as long as I own the car though. If it gets too bad, I'll find a Mk2 shell and a supercharger lol
Weirdly it seems to be the same with most of them, Black Bob was pretty mint, again a Mk1a, any good ones left all seem to be Mk1a, or had lots of work done.
Lee, is it a Legalis R you've gone for again?
Yep another one of them, saw it on ebay covered in crud but otherwise straight. Got it for £40 and picking it up this weekend when I visit my folks. With a lot of elbox grease it will come up good again.
Was thinking it would suit having the CAT running parallel to the box behind it before going over the subframe. Similar to where the n/a's have their CAT. But it's all a lot beefier and with a CAT on there I reckon it might just bring the volume to a perfect level :)
If it gets too bad, I'll find a Mk2 shell and a supercharger lol
They are starting to lose the battle too to be honest, nearly every one I saw had some rust starting around the sills. Also the bottom of the doors was quite common too.
Diesel Meister
01-04-2010, 15:06
Tiggs - that one was for you lol
Ol - yup. In the case of my car, it's both - had new arches and sills all round by the prev owner (of 8 years) lol I want to eventually blast and coat the suspension bits, replace the rusty bits of the front adn rear bumpers, add some cavity wax etc. then repaint. but essentially I'm more concerned with condition than presentation.
Lee - sounds like a find! My exhaust was expensive as it was new. 1/3 off though :) Look forward to hearing yourssand Decipherer's
Result! 'mon the cheap exhaust brigade. lol
See Lee, we'll make a proper Scotsman out of you yet.
Well a bit of updating as I have been pretty busy on the car the last week.
Engine is in and hanging from 3 of the 4 mounts. Still waiting for the front torque mount to show and been waiting over 2 weeks now.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/04/146.jpg
FPR fitted, fuel lines plumbed in and all the coolant and heater hoses connected up. Subframe is back in now that I have got new ARB brackets and ARB polybushes. Big thanks to Millentubby for getting hold of all the dealer only bits I needed. Got me a new MAF, ARB brackets and the replacement oil lines at cost which was brilliant!
While the rear suspension was in bits I decided to fit the PI lowering springs I bought off Paff about 2 years ago. Went without too much of a hitch, but the fronts put up a good fight as i suspect this suspension has never seen a spanner in its lifetime yet.
All the suspension is back together now, put the wheels on to see how it sits. They are progressively wound and seem to have a decent amount of pliancy however.....
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2010/04/279.jpg
No getting away from rolling the arches now!
At the end of Summer the whole of the suspension is coming off for blasting, powder coating, new KONI inserts and polybushes all round as it is getting a bit tired.
Made up my intake from various bits cobbled together from ebay. Need to get a boss welded to the top so I can mount the MAF but it should work pretty well
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2010/04/280.jpg
Also test fitted the exhaust to measure up the space I have left for a CAT. Seems to sit a bit wonky but it's easily sorted and with a lot of elbow grease will look as good as new. Certainly better than the pea shooters I had before.
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2010/04/281.jpg
At moment I'm trying to get the clutch master cylinder to prime so I can bleed the system, so far proving to be right pain in the arse but I'll get there. Y pipe will be getting made up next week
Not got a huge amount to do now until the throttle body, throttle pedal and looms arrives back from the States. Unfortunately a volcano has delayed the arrival of them until maybe end of next week now.....
Getting there chief!
Any news on the leccy side of things?
They're coming back untouched matey, something to keep me occupied if I'm not working for a while :)
Diesel Meister
17-04-2010, 10:50
Effing nice work Lee. Loving the LMs as well - they really suit :thumbsup:
I'm just waiting to find out what offsets I need then I can start shopping. Looking to get the car back in the next few weeks for various trips (plus Rising Sun - ticket arrived!).
dgh938peg
17-04-2010, 20:26
Looking beautiful Lee :thumbsup:
psssst ..... you got the rear wheels on the wrong sides ;)
I was feeling lazy and everything suspension wise was loosely fitted, just wanted to see how it was sitting :)
dgh938peg
17-04-2010, 21:35
Yeah right!!! :D
19Mark90
28-04-2010, 10:00
Did you get your harness back from phoenix tuning?
I didn't get the harness done by Phoenix in the end.
I sent everything they asked for after agreeing a price. Then got an email saying they had received everything, that it would be much more complicated than expected (I thought they had done this before??) and that the price had been bumped up. Also he said he needed the old 3s-ge engine harness which didn't fill me with confidence. Couple that with expedited service costs if I didn't want to sit at the back of a very long queue and the initial estimate nearly doubled. With bugger all come back should there be niggles I decided to have it sent back.
It's quite likely that it would have been a very professional OEM looking job, but I'd rather just have it running first, I can tidy stuff up like that as I go on. Or send it to Mr Woods for completion if I get sent away with work before June, that way I know where I am with it all.
It's currently all stuck in UK customs after been delayed because of the volcanic eruption, but it has given me time to swat up on the wiring and I'm much happier with how to go about it now.
Mechanically everything is in (apart from a front torque mount and MAF boss which Adamh is sorting for me) and got to put all the fluids in. Once it's running it is off for the Y section fabricating and a high flow catalytic convertert which I will be buying on payday this Friday :thumbsup:
Anyone know if this OBD2 scanner would be okay? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Diagnostic-Scanner-CAN-Code-Reader-OBD2-EOBD-II-MS300-/290401065487?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item439d409a0f Got a 16 pin fly lead and plug on the way and have a decent amount of info from mr2oc.com how it wires in.
All just waiting on stuff at the moment :(
19Mark90
28-04-2010, 12:32
Wow that was my first post, I guess this is what happens when I am a lurker.
Yea, I had sent them an email asking about the conversion price after seeing your post above. They had quoted me like $600 for the conversion. Does Mr. Woods do harness conversions also?
I am too hoping to do a 2GR-FE conversion after I purchase a MR2 in the future. Just raising funds at the moment and driving my Fit.
I can't wait to see yours done.
Aye welcome to Twobrutal :thumbsup:
I got a slightly cheaper quote than that, but he wanted another 3s-ge harness for some reason which he was going to charge $100 for, combined with the increased initial costs and expedited service so I wouldn't be waiting potentially months there wasn't much change out of $1000. Too much of a risk if there are problems and no idea where to even start if it's wrong unless they supplied wiring diagrams.
Paul doesn't do harness conversions as there are lots of slight variations between revisions which can cause a headache however we're lucky enough to have him in the UK and 3 hours drive from myself.
If you know which harness/ECU option for the 2GR you are going for you can get your head around it. I have spent MANY days making notes looking at the 5 plug ECU harness wiring and the MR2 loom to figure out how they integrate. Looking at Gouky's tips on how to wire it in plus lots of little bits and bats off the oc.com I've got a pretty good idea how it goes. Just got to put it into practice :)
decipherer
28-04-2010, 15:46
I guess he would need the 3s harness for the cooling fan, backup light, temperature sensor and maybe some more plugs that I forgot. But you're right, if you take some time to look at the diagrams, the info already on the forums and take it wire by wire, it's not all that difficult. Having said that I must confess there was one wire I would have forgot if Gouky hadn't provided some feedback on a diagram I sent him. I also made sure to have a fire extinguisher in close range when I connected the battery for the first time :icon_mrgreen:
Good luck with your wiring! Oh, and btw, I did make some documentation on my wiring, I have yet to add the wiring for the immobilizer, but if you want it I'm happy to send it to you. That is for a '07 camry 2GR in a '91 3S-GE chassis btw, so may only confuse you.
I can understand that but seemed a bit overkill to me to use a perfectly good 3S-GE loom that I sold with my old engine, to use about 6 wires in it. :nuts:
They wanted $100 extra for it. It's not many extra wires to run without using a loom and most can be done without any issues.
Good advice on the fire extinguisher matey :thumbsup: Though might need a box of tissues if i fry a brand new ECU :eusa_doh:
Bit of an update on where I am with the swap. All stuff I've been doing/sorting from the last month. I was hoping to get it running for a weekend away this weekend but 5 days of hell working in Malta put paid to that this week.
Earlier last month I swapped over a ton of body panels, the car has been off the road and had a very iffy panel repair job. So I changed both front wings, bumper and bonnet
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2010/06/94.jpg
I seem to be collecting body panels:icon_redface:
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/06/11.jpg
Fitted TRD front and rear torque mounts. I hope it steers a happy medium between the polybush ones and standard for NVH levels. Also they work out about the same for full mounts compared to inserts. Mine were absolutely shot with corrosion.
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2010/06/95.jpg
Adam sorted out my air intake. What can I say he's the man! :eusa_clap:
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2010/06/96.jpg
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2010/06/97.jpg
Also had the Y section/mid pipe made up by Meercat exhausts, who did a nice job for a decent price :thumbsup:
Sorry for the poor pictures, but the car is lowered and it's very difficult to get shots of it.
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2010/06/98.jpg
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2010/06/99.jpg
The pipe runs a bit lower than the sump which I'm a bit concerned about, however they did say if there are any problems with clearance they will sort it FOC. Absolutely no space for a catalytic converter so it will be a bit fruity the noise. I suspect the engine will pass the CAT emission levels anyway but it seems the legislation is that a CAT has to be fitted weather it passes or not without one. I have the details of a friendly MOT tester should there be problems in October when it runs out.
Running the 2GR loom through the drivers side so cut out a hole for that and made a start on the wiring basically just identifying them all so I can 'join that one, to that one' :fingersx: Big thanks to Kars for his wiring help, it helped back up my own thoughts of what went where.
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2010/06/100.jpg
I was going to simply crimp the connections to get it running and then solder it all properly later. However that never happens in practice so I'll be doing it properly from the start and soldering the lot.
What have people done for mounting their throttle pedal? Not a huge amount of space to get it sitting just right for my little feet! :icon_biggrin:
Paul Woods
06-06-2010, 08:57
Lee that's plumbed up wrong mate....
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2005/04/52.jpg
Should be Air filter/MAF/PCV hose/throttle body. The way that is the MAF is not seeing air coming from the right direction, so it just won't work. You need to put the Air filter on the other end of the MAF pipe.
I thought i was doing your wiring for you? I hope that works out for the best, if you need any help just ask.
Ooops I shall whip the pipe around the other way :icon_redface:
I enquired how much it was going to be to trailer it down to yours and after everything I have spent on this I couldn't justify spending anymore. Work has been quiet and I've got an abundance of time so with the help of a friend we are soldiering our way through it. Though no doubt there will be questions along the way for you :eusa_shifty:
We're using an old turbo engine loom for the fuse box plugs and pigtails (plus keeping starter and cooling fan circuit intact) so there is no chopping of the cars loom and a minimum on the 2GR loom. If all else fails and we're not getting anywhere we can reverse it very easily and it'll be on its way down to you to get working asap :praise2:
Paul Woods
06-06-2010, 14:59
That's fine Lee, however a word of caution, you say you are using old turbo fusebox plugs instead of cutting the ones off your old engine harness.... have you 100% checked the pins/wires are all there,in the correct order and also the correct colour? Toyota change the pins on those fuseboxes at will and while 90% of them are the same you could run into a problem there. Compare your old engine plugs to the new ones and make sure the colours/pin positions correspond.
Also we have looked at that Maf pipe and it might not clear the coolant filler point housing, already spoke to ads about it, looks like it needs chopping down where it goes onto the throttle body but it's no biggy, try it first and report back.
We ignored the wire colours from the fuse plugs and made sure the pinouts matched. We belled it all out and everything seems to go to what is stated in the EWD we have.
It was all a bit of guestimation when I ordered the intake pipework stuff as my TB was still stuck in the US when I ordered it. I did a loose fitting (need to shorten the M6 bolts for the TB mount) It did foul the filler hose to some extent. I can remove the interference by mounting the filler point through a higher hole in the bracket lowering the fill point approx 20mm. Will this cause any issues to the coolant system? The hose is not kinked or squeezed and everything seems to just clear.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/06/14.jpg
If it's okay for the coolant system, then the filter cone is about as far down as I can get it and about as far away from the engine as possible. :thumbsup:
Looking good Lee, good work mate!
Adam that air intake looks very sexy.
Paul Woods
07-06-2010, 06:51
As long as the filler point is still the highest point in the cooling system in the engine bay it will be fine,. Chaffing is the number one enemy of the engine swapper, so you really don't want any pipe or wire in constant rubbing motion with another surface as it will wear through in no time. We have seen a fair few homebuilds were stuff was chaffing worse than a fat girls thighs running to the cake shop! Try and get clearance on everything is the key to longevity.
TB Quote of the month from Mr Woods.
We have seen a fair few homebuilds were stuff was chaffing worse than a fat girls thighs running to the cake shop!
It's alive!!!!
http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a341/leewa79/2GR-FE%20Swap/?action=view¤t=13072010032.mp4
:jump::jump::jump::jump::jump::jump::jump::jump:
rock on!
how long till you drive it and wet yourself?
Paul Woods
13-07-2010, 18:02
Nice one Lee, did you pull the codes out before startup to make sure the vvti is pinned correctly? Some of them need the pins changing due to slight ECU differences, marc will be able to advise better.
decipherer
13-07-2010, 18:07
Congratulations! :D
Portgordon
13-07-2010, 18:17
Much Awesomenes :)
Cheers fellas, was a bit out of the blue. Shit myself when it fired up!
rock on!
how long till you drive it and wet yourself?
Got a few things to sort as it isn't charging at the moment so need to look into that. Also mount the throttle pedal, figure out the tach, wire in speedo sender from the gearbox and then check everything is tight/not chafing and go from there.
Nice one Lee, did you pull the codes out before startup to make sure the vvti is pinned correctly? Some of them need the pins changing due to slight ECU differences, marc will be able to advise better.
To be honest I wasn't aware of this. I seem to have a loom of unknown origin as it matches neither the Avalon nor the Highlander EWD's, colours all different. So to be sure everything goes to where it should I continuity checked every single ECU pinout to engine component and thought I would be okay. I'll be borrowing a scanner very soon to check for this VVTi issue. Will I have damaged anything? Is it a common issue?
BTW it sounds fapping magic :thumbsup:
Well done fella :thumbsup:
Get this on the road and feedback the driving experience.
Congrats Lee, must check it out some time. :thumbsup:
SlipSlide
15-07-2010, 00:07
Well done sounds lovely, and it looked like the excitement was getting to you after it fired up. You seemed to be using the camera in the OMG, it alive, shit it sounds great, I need to drive it now, what do I do now mode.
Big thumbs up.
Paul Woods
15-07-2010, 06:28
I've never actually fired one up with the VVti pins the wrong way Lee so i don't know if there will be any damage, i usually just power up the ECU first and read its codes, it will return VVti solenoid code errors if the pins are different. If the codes are there you will need to repin them which is a barrel of laughs!
Cheers fellas, was a bit out of the blue. Shit myself when it fired up!
Got a few things to sort as it isn't charging at the moment so need to look into that. Also mount the throttle pedal, figure out the tach, wire in speedo sender from the gearbox and then check everything is tight/not chafing and go from there.
To be honest I wasn't aware of this. I seem to have a loom of unknown origin as it matches neither the Avalon nor the Highlander EWD's, colours all different. So to be sure everything goes to where it should I continuity checked every single ECU pinout to engine component and thought I would be okay. I'll be borrowing a scanner very soon to check for this VVTi issue. Will I have damaged anything? Is it a common issue?
BTW it sounds fapping magic :thumbsup:
no, it won't damage anything, even if you drive it around like this. it just won't be puting out full power.
Cheers fellas, that's good to know it's okay.
I've had to repin quite a few already on the D & E plugs specifically for the OBD plug. Filed down a watchmakers screwdriver to virtually nothing, never realised you had to pop up a piece of the plug to release the pins too. I have learnt shedloads on this swap and cannot wait to drive it. Unfortunately going to be a while as I'm stuck in Norway now for 2-4 weeks :frown:
Paul Woods
16-07-2010, 18:07
never realised you had to pop up a piece of the plug to release the pins too
Yeah that one is a right barrel of laughs, people do not realize how much work goes into a swap like this, it's all the little things.
*LOL* sorry guys, i guess i could have given you guys a heads up. working in the automotive field i've been dealing with these "newer" style connectors for at least 5 years so it wasn't a surprise to me. i never gave it a 2nd thought.
No worries it's just one of those little things that eats into the time. Using your mounts I reckon mechanically fitting the engine and getting everything ready to run is half the job. The rest is the little time consuming stuff like extending the wires for the lambda's, running the DBW throttle wires, getting rid of the old connectors, repinning stuff etc etc
I'm stuck away working and have been looking at scanning tools for the OBD2. I came across this on my search: http://www.scangauge2.co.uk/
Do you think it will work with the wired in plug I have now? Idea would be to incorporate it into a DIN panel below the stereo, backlight it green and it looks like a fairly OEM item in the cabin. Gives fault diagnosis and some useful info while on the move.
Also the resistor you use for the OBD2, will a little .25W one do the job okay?
yeah that should work just fine with the 2GR ECU. it'll be handy on the faults, especially since you can't use the MIL because of the auto trans stuff.
Cheers Marc. Excellent stuff, I shall be purchasing come payday at the end of the month.
Got another question (sorry) regarding giving the ECU a speed signal (I imagine it will need this to calculate Mpg etc). Will it accept a spliced output from the gearbox sender?
Also the Tach, I take it it isn't as simple as connecting up the tach output from the ECU to the clocks? I have a set of clocks here that were previously modified to work with my last VZ converted Mk2.
the tach signal isn't compatible with the stock MR2 stuff. but if you've already converted for a 3vz tach signal, you're good to go. it's the exact same signal.
i've never tried giving the ECU a speed signal. keep in mind if you do so, you'll likely need a converter box between the two to set the ratio properly. it'll also enforce a max speed limit of around 140mph if you hook it up.
snowtigger
23-07-2010, 21:23
Interesting so if you put a signal converter for the tach it limits the top speed.
But if you actually resolder and convert the tach unit to like 3vz spec you have no speed limit.
no, i was refering to a signal converter for the speed signal to the ECU
Lovely stuff thanks for that, don't you just love how this stuff like this stays the same. Makes life for the swapper so much simpler! I have the original clocks in at the moment and it's just dead (thought I would get a high reading as it's getting 50% more pulses than expected) If it should read high with the original clocks then I need to check my wiring :doh:
I'll have a look into what sort of input the ECU receives for the Avalon and see how it compares to what the MR2 sender outputs. It's not a biggy but would be nice to get Mpg data
I'm not setting out to set land speed records so 140Mph for British roads is more than plenty I reckon lol
if you get the sppedo input figured out, share it with people. it would allow people to use cruise control on the 2GR.
Yes that would be nice. Just a simple switch arrangement for latching it on between the CCS and E1 ECU input/outputs?. Might need an input on the Park/neutral switch ECU input too? Might be fairly basic with no incremental speed increase/decrease but handy for setting the speed that you are doing at the time of engaging?
I have an aftermarket kit that usually piggybacks onto the throttle cable using a vacuum operated actuator. No good with the 2GR TB but it can be mounted into the frunk and connect to the throttle pedal somehow. Might be an option?
all you need is the speedo and this: http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=379894
Interesting stuff. Cruise was a very rare option on Mk2's over here. Might get lucky!
godtheater
24-07-2010, 18:18
hmmm.... Lee will be my guy to track.. Great job so far.. I know life brings a lot to the table...
Well I got home from Norway a week early and in my zombied state while trying to recover from working nights I've managed to sort the charging issue (now 14V across the battery) :thumbsup:
Been playing with mounting the throttle pedal, it's a right PITA as the pedal is offset to the left, great for US cars but pants for UK ones. You have to move it so far across to the right to get a decent space between that and the brake that the body of the throttle pedal assembly is very close to the wheelarch bulge on the chassis. I've mounted it but there's quite a big difference between the heights of the brake and throttle pedal. I want to angle it down more but there are some ECU boxes that will need relocating to create the space. Will probably do that tomorrow.
Decided to give it a quick in and out of the garage as I wanted it turning around, just coincidence it moves under it's own steam same time as Pauls :icon_smile:
http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a341/leewa79/2GR-FE%20Swap/?action=view¤t=07082010017.mp4
Clutch seems okay, but doesn't disengage until at the bottom of its travel. Bled the hell out of it so not sure if it's normal or not. Will try bleeding it even more.
Brakes are absolutely shocking at the moment. They were fine pre swap and haven't been broken into. Feels like there is no servo assistance at all. Don't think it's anything to do with the swap?
Any ideas appreciated as I couldn't take it out on the road with the brakes the way they are at the moment and i really want to get out and give it the beans :icon_lol:
Also bought a private plate today :hidesbehi:
Paul Woods
07-08-2010, 21:50
Lee you can adjust the clutch bite point via a bar on the back of the clutch pedal.
Did you remove the one way check valve from your brake servo line? It's normally just above the 2gr alternator.... if you removed that you will lose your servo assistance.
quickest lap i saw of a circuit!, good job on the charging issue.
i dont know much about mk2's, they dont use a vac boost for the brakes do they? got that plumbed in off the inlet manifold?
I was thinking that too, but can't see anything obvious at the moment from the engine bay. I have a spare vacuum port on the engine but nothing on the chassis from what I can see. I shall consult the BGB and see what I'm missing :D
Edit-Sorry Paul missed your reply, yes i shall have a look. I don't think I have removed any one way valve, more like not connected it up :doh:
Well done chief! Will be over for a look see soon.
Cheers matey, it's all getting there now!
I've been starting to get it ready for the road the last few days. Clutch adjusted so it engages in the right place and have the brakes working (missed the vacuum line off)
I'm in the process of wiring up the OBD2 connector. I've got power up to it and think I've got the right wires for most of it. Here's how it's wired so far (5 plug ECU):
OBD2 Plug______________Chassis/2GR ECU
Pin 1 Not connected
Pin 2 Not connected
Pin 3 Not connected
Pin 4 CG Ground-------------->Ground
Pin 5 SG ground--------------->Ground
Pin 6 CANH-------------------->Plug E Pin33
Pin 7 SIL------------------------No Idea where this goes
Pin 8 Not connected
Pin 9 TAC---------------------->Plug E Pin 1
Pin 10 Not connected
Pin 11 Not connected
Pin 12 TS---------------------->No idea where this goes
Pin 13 TC---------------------->Plug D pin 23
Pin 14 CANL------------------->Plug E Pin34
Pin 15 Not connected
Pin 16 12V+------------------->Ignition live
So it's the SIL and TS lines I haven't a clue on, anyone help on this? The scanner powers up and goes through a list of what I assume are protocols and then indicates failure in communication with ECU (Expected at the moment)
I remember reading and noted down that one of the lines require a resistor in it. i can't for the life of me find where that information is or where i put it. Can anyone help so I can pop down to Maplins tomorrow?
I took it for a short test drive today and suspect there's something the ECU is not happy with (Have a CEL). Initially it feels like it's going to pull like a train, but then further pressing of the pedal results in not much extra happening. Like it's in a safe mode or something. I suspect one of the O2 sensors is goosed as it occasionally misfires at idle resulting in a small popping. Also seems to be running a bit rich. I'm sure all will be clear once i get this OBD2 stuff sorted and i can read the codes. :fingersx:
I wish I could describe what it sounds like with the Fujitsubo exhaust, kind of like the VZ but on steroids. Sounds fapping awesome!
Paul Woods
11-08-2010, 07:18
Lee which ECU do you have? The two large black plug type or the regular 5 white plug type?
hi Paul, it's the regular 5 plug type
Paul Woods
11-08-2010, 18:37
Lee your wiring is correct, apart from pin 16 which is a BATT+ not an IGN+ , however it should be working with ignition on anyway, i presume you have had the ignition switched on while scanning?
If it still won't scan then it's your scanner to blame, which model is it? We went through several scanners before finding one that works on Jap stuff, the one i have now does everything.
SIL does not need connecting nor does TC.
he will still need the 60Ohm resistor between both CAN lines to allow the bus to work as designed.
Paul Woods
11-08-2010, 19:01
Really Marc? I've never needed that on any of my 2gr swaps and they all have a fully working OBD2? To be honest this is the first time i've heard about the resistor at all.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1epvv7R1po
No resistor ^^^
I had read about the resistor mod on the OC.com I think. I wonder if your unit runs the CAN across a 60Ohm resistor internally and mine doesn't.
Mine is only a cheap ebay job but does say it should read and clear all Toyota codes post a certain year. I'll get hold of a resistor, see if it works and if not I'll just take the car to someone with a more expensive scanner. Hopefully it will work and tell me what's going on :thumbsup:
decipherer
12-08-2010, 11:09
I've used the resistor on my build too (as per Marc's suggestion) and it works fine. Although I'm using the same OBD reader Paul is using so it should even work without the resistor. Anyway, I would definitely try one as they cost peanuts
FAQs
How do I connect my CAN bus?
There are two wires on a CAN bus, CAN High and CAN Low. On the CAN bus all of the CAN High pins of all of the Nodes (systems) are connected together, and all of the CAN Low pins are connected together.
http://www.oxts.com/client/images/content/385_CAN_Connections.jpg
Connections on the CAN bus, including the RT3000 and two Bus Terminators (120R)
Although the CAN bus should operate correctly with only two wires, it is best to connect the grounds of the systems together as well. This precaution may save you many days of debugging.
The cables for the CAN bus should be twisted-pair. A shielded, twisted pair is useful so that the ground can be connected along the shield. The twisted pair should have an impedance of 120R. The ends of the cables should have 120R (ohm) resistors between the CAN High and CAN Low signals, these are the Bus Terminators.
The 120R resistors, or bus terminators have two important jobs. Firstly, the CAN bus requires that the bus returns to zero volts when no one is transmitting, putting a 120R resistor across the bus guarantees that the bus will return to zero volts quickly when all the transmitters are off (or recessive). The second important job is to stop reflections on a long bus. The CAN bus operates at a sufficiently frequency so that the ends can reflect the data and cause data errors; the resistor prevents the reflections.
On short buses (2m max) it is possible to use just one resistor. At this length the reflections are not significant.
exactly. i design this stuff for a living. the only reason paul hasn't had to do it is because the diagnosis tool has the ability to add them. this is a bit of a rare feature but not that rare.
"On short buses (2m max) it is possible to use just one resistor. At this length the reflections are not significant." that's exactly what i'm suggesting with the 60ohm resistor.
snowtigger
12-08-2010, 12:29
Sound of arm and of wind rushing over bonce "woosh" and it's gone.
I think I get the gist of the thing though so in a nut shell, if you don't have a fancy scanner and your length of wire is less than 2m you use a 60ohm resistor if over that length use a 120.
almost...
I think I get the gist of the thing though so in a nut shell, if you don't have a fancy scanner and your length of wire is less than 2m you use a 60ohm resistor if over that length use a 120 at each end of the CAN bus.
snowtigger
12-08-2010, 13:42
you clever boy did you spot the deliberate mistake there then, goes and hides behind the sofa lol.
now you don't have an excuse anymore. get that thing on the road!
Paul Woods
13-08-2010, 07:22
Ah that clears that up, i wasn't even aware of the resistor mod.
Well whatever was giving me problems the other day they have gone. :jump:
Started the car up and noticed it went into a steady idle and the revs went down smoothly after a minute or so instead of the usual 5-10mins. Also the popping had gone.
Took it down the road for a gentle test and it instantly felt better. Pootled around for 20 mins giving it a few prods of the pedal. Felt very lively and hugely responsive. Temps were good and all seemed well.
Entered a dual carriageway and opened her up...............FOOOOKIN HELL!! was all that went through my head!! This car has serious top end pace! 2nd gear was so fast i hit the limiter before I knew it.
I don't know what has changed but it's been a few days now with the battery hooked up permanently. Don't know if something ECU wise has changed. Very odd as I haven't changed anything with the wiring.
I'll see if i can get video of the noise this thing makes, it really is awesome on the move it snarls and pulls like a train at high RPMs but seems very good on the cruise and general stop start stuff.
AWESOME ENGINE is all I can say :praise2:
it takes about 100 miles for the engine to learn the headers and intake right. it should have more power by then
welcome to the 2GR crowd!
aw boulderdash I should have hung around this afternoon then? Drat drat and triple drat! Just need to sort the OBD II and ready to rock! Sounds like you have got the car sorted though which is fab news!
it takes about 100 miles for the engine to learn the headers and intake right. it should have more power by then
welcome to the 2GR crowd!
Thanks Marc, it has been a long time in the making but worth it!
I've done maybe 25 miles at the moment but it's already impressive. There are lots of things that still need sorting, especially the suspension alignment as it feels a bit unsettled since it has been lowered. Also wiring in the speedo sender and cooling fan ECU.
I'm working on getting the OBD2 working, but after double/triple checking everything and getting the right resistors there is still no communication. I think the cheapo scanner is to blame. Shall be getting it hooked up to a better one in a few days but everything feels good so far.
You manage to get the pedal sorted then chief or you still coming over?
Sounds like it's beastly!
Yeah still need the pedal bracket sorting if you're around tomorrow matey?
It's not too bad and is pretty sturdy but it is temporary and sits out a fair bit more than the brake and clutch. Makes driving it interesting at 1st :D
Got an mot-retest 2moro but will be about for most of the day, let me know when you're coming through chief, should be fine.
:yelrotflmao::yelrotflmao::yelrotflmao:
Entered a dual carriageway and opened her up...............FOOOOKIN HELL!! was all that went through my head! :yelrotflmao::yelrotflmao::yelrotflmao:
Made up for you Lee, you've put a lot of hard work into this mate.
Respect to Marc as well for the quality of the product.:thumbsup:
Moustachio
17-08-2010, 13:27
Awesome job....
Lots of pics and videos please :)
pilotpete
17-08-2010, 16:10
:eusa_clap:Nice to see someone else joining the 2GR club - enjoy. Hats off to you for doing it yourself too.
Cheers it has been really worthwhile. I had a lot of pointers along the way from Paul, Marc and Kars and that was really appreciated. Also MANY MANY long nights staring at wiring diagrams and my head in the boot of the car soldering/scratching my head!
Big thanks to Olie who madeup a solid bracket to mount the throttle pedal to, absolutely perfect now. :thumbsup: I'll let him comment on how it goes after we went for little blat :icon_razz:
Now a case of flaring out the rear arches as they are still rubbing the tyres and the suspension alignment and it's fit for the rest of the year.
Shall try get some video tonight!
Only 1 thing to say.
Need supercharger. Now.
The torque and the noise! Made the Mk2 feel half the weight. Cannot contemplate what this would be like in something light, like say an S1 Elise. :eusa_think:
I really, REALLY like this thing under load. It's special.
Paul Woods
18-08-2010, 08:02
Imagine it in a Mk1 Olie, it is just sex.
snowtigger
18-08-2010, 08:10
Stop it your making me drool mate with anticipation.
i had the earphone in again.. sounds good on paper although ;-)
Clarky_X
18-08-2010, 20:09
Unfortunately, having searched the web a few months ago for exige v6 conversions, noone reckons they can be done without a lot of work. Because the elise and exige have fibreglass bodies the v6 would be too close to the body work and at risk of catching fire from heat transfer. 4 pot has more space in the bay and mr2 has metal body.
So unless anyone has any better luck searching, or you want to spend a stack modding body or heat shielding everything up, you're outta luck.
the exige already has this motor in it. as for the elise:
http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=393129
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/06/32.jpg
Diesel Meister
19-08-2010, 18:21
Imagine it in a Mk1 Olie, it is just sex.
Fortunately I don't have to just imagine, assuming I get the time, heh.
I just blew the AA man's battery booster box into the middle of the road starting Mifu up this morning (my trickle charger wasn't man enough). Suffice it to say he was professional enough not to blurt any obscenities or full his pants. The bulging eyes and cheeks confirmed his respect for the forces the teensys AW11 was barely containing... He kept me chatting for about 20min on the car and spec after he'd calmed down, heh. Paul - you may be asked to take a Mk1 WRX Impreznot as a trade on a 2GR MR2 in the near future!
Lee - welcome to the club. Fright Club that is :icon_lol:
Paul Woods
19-08-2010, 18:51
The first rule of fright club is you do not talk about fright club!
snowtigger
19-08-2010, 19:33
The second rule is you still don't talk about fright club.
HEY! that's bad for my business... you guys need to scream out loud about the damn club :)
snowtigger
19-08-2010, 20:07
Third rule see the first two
Well definitly in Fright club now.
Today I had the suspension setup. The drive there was the first time I'd driven it in the wet. I knew the alignment was way off but wasn't too bad in the dry. In the wet it felt like the back end was wondering all over the road. Good job it was 5 mins down the road and I crawled it down at 20mph. It's now feeling much more planted. :thumbsup:
Still in the wet you have to be very gentle with the throttle, with so much torque available early on it's quite easy to spin up the rears without trying.
Had Michael Sherry detail the car last Wednesday, and it's looking very shiny! :thumbsup:
He also repaired the Recaro side bolsters which were looking a bit worn, now look close to as good as new. I put my new plate on the car (yes I'm sad) import sized holder and plate on the front and it cleans up the front no end.
I spooned out all the crap that was in the frunk and ran a cloth around all the components. With the car looking so good I decided to clean up the engine bay,(will be a rare occasion that!!) now looking great. I also polished up the exhaust with an ebay metal polishing kit which worked very well (done after these photo's)
Here's how it's looking now:
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2010/08/150.jpg
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2010/08/151.jpg
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2010/08/152.jpg
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2010/08/153.jpg
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2010/08/154.jpg
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2010/08/155.jpg
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2010/08/156.jpg
Not many things to sort now for JAE, speedo needs wiring in, alloys need a refurb (might wait till its winter lay up to do them) and I'm going to fit a fresh radiator as this one has definitly seen better days.
It's MOT is due end of Sept so I think that's when it will be put up on axle stands and overhaul the suspension. Get it all stripped, blasted, powder coated and polybushed. I have brackets for 996 calipers on the front with Supra discs and will space out the rear calipers to balance it out.
The sills have seen better days so may use it as an opportunity to learn how to weld. Either way I think it will be an ongoing project even after the engine is in!
Looks awesome Lee, the Recaros really set it off and despite the wheels needing a refurb those rims really suit the sonic shadow overall look.
By the looks of it you'll be hibernating in the garage over the winter :thumbsup:
nice job but you will need to fix the speedo pronto! Where did you end up getting the alignment done, I still need to get mine done just not had the time or energy to have it done :eusa_whistle: Your car is looking great, I'm not a fan of private plates but aye you get away with it :smile:
it has that unspoilt / i want it! look, looks great. is that a hard top or a t top?
how far out was the passenger rear? Were they measuring it in months? hehe must have been quite un-nerving in the wet
dgh938peg
23-08-2010, 23:01
Beautiful Lee - top drawer indeed :)
Paul Woods
24-08-2010, 07:18
Lee if you haven't got the speedo wired up that means the ECU also doesn't have a speed signal going in, that is quite important, you may notice it pulling even harder and smoother with that sorted. To be honest i wouldn't drive one without a properly sorted speedo, pretty sure it will be relying on that to operate the VVti too.
The car is a credit to you, she looks amazing.
Thanks everyone. It ha been worth it in the end.
She's a hardtop so no worrying about leaks and as I'm in Scotland no need to worry to much about lack of working aircon.
She wasn't in the best of states when I purchased, but for £1400 it was better rust wise than some cars that owners were asking twice as much for. I may well miss my t-bar time will tell!
Lee if you haven't got the speedo wired up that means the ECU also doesn't have a speed signal going in, that is quite important, you may notice it pulling even harder and smoother with that sorted. To be honest i wouldn't drive one without a properly sorted speedo, pretty sure it will be relying on that to operate the VVti too.
The car is a credit to you, she looks amazing.
Cheers Paul
That's interesting to know! I don't know weather to be happy or slightly concerned that it might pull harder than it already does. I had it in my head it was purely a feed for the speedometer on this swap and that the pulse from the sender on the gearbox was incompatible with the 2GR ECU. Olie's sending me a plug down and I'll get that wired in ASAP.
In theory if it does work, does that mean it's fairly simple to get the cruise control working. As it's all controlled via the ECU? Be handy for the 700 mile round trip to JAE :eusa_think:
how far out was the passenger rear? Were they measuring it in months? hehe must have been quite un-nerving in the wet
It was out a country mile mate, here's before and after:
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2010/08/157.jpg
Cost £52 and they are 5 mins from my house. The receptionist was about as cheerful as mud, but the car feels really good now. Just the engine that feels like it is going to kill me now :thumbsup:
I suppose considering the work you did it's to be expected. At least when the guy was adjusting it everything would have slackened off nicely since you'd been in there before replacing / refitting stuff. I shall get this done to mine when I get back. Mmm working speedo = more grunt. Awesome
Well it was a nice day and went for a drive. While I was out I passed a place remembering they had a dyno. So thought what the hell. Seems alright, bit down on others but it seems a fairly simple setup and no cold air blowing into the side intakes. The MAF pipe was scorching at the end of it all.
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2010/09/204.jpg
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2010/09/205.jpg
I called in at a supermarket petrol station and checked tyre pressures before going on. Got home after the dyno and thought they looked a bit low. 21 Psi on both back tyres according to my gauge. Bloody pump :icon_rolleyes:
Either way it still feels ballistically quick and has done approx 1000 miles faultlessly so far. :thumbsup:
What grade fuel are you using? Seemed a little low. What size is your exhaust?
Is your transmission losses not a bit low, 11% or something?
117.5% of 270bhp is 317.25bhp.
Bog standard 95 RON, not sure what that's the equivalent of in the States?
Like I said I had low tyre pressures and naff all cool air on the intake, it really was hot! So no doubt I'd probably see better figures on a Dyno with the full fan setup..
Exhaust is same size bore pipework as the end of the manifolds, going to a 3" section after the Y to a 3" bore exhaust system. I can vouch for how free flowing the exhaust was, damn near blew my ear drums out at full chat on the rollers :lol:
Is your transmission losses not a bit low, 11% or something?
117.5% of 270bhp is 317.25bhp.
If the transmission losses were low wouldn't you get a higher reading after correction?
dgh938peg
17-09-2010, 21:23
Bog standard 95 RON, not sure what that's the equivalent of in the States?
Like I said I had low tyre pressures and naff all cool air on the intake, it really was hot! So no doubt I'd probably see better figures on a Dyno with the full fan setup..
Exhaust is same size bore pipework as the end of the manifolds, going to a 3" section after the Y to a 3" bore exhaust system. I can vouch for how free flowing the exhaust was, damn near blew my ear drums out at full chat on the rollers :lol:
Went through this one with the USA guys at work. Our 95RON is about equivalent to your 91MON Marc.
The graph is in wheel horse power by the looks of it, max 270bhp and 250lb/ft.
So multiply by the 17.5% we normally use for these boxes that will give you your 317 odd and 295.
On the 2nd sheet, 32bhp losses of 301bhp is about 11%.
I reckon that's nearly bob on for WHP.
Ah gotcha, so yeah it seems pretty decent to me.
I do think a bit can be gained by isolating the intake cone from the engine bay. It was seriously hot in there after the dyno. I've never been convinced the location has been all that great. The original 2GR intake has no chance of fitting, so was wondering if the stock turbo intake would be any good?
If not a way of isolating the intake from the bay would be worth seeking
wow that's a torque curve based on a main battle tank! Nice figures, if that's wheel hp (and i believe it is) 270 is not to be sniffed at. Who cares about flywheel figures it's not going to alter the wheels figures which is what the tyres feel :)(and is the only figure measured whereas anything else is a guess)
Yup you're right, either way 270 ATW is a fair bit more than what Toyota quote :)
I have to admit I was rather pleased with the torque curve, just what i was looking for in an engine :thumbsup:
I do think there is a bit more in the engine, cooler intake temps and decent tyre pressures can only help.
burkedara
18-09-2010, 12:31
There serious figures Lee, did ya show up many cars on the drive back form JAE?
I was taking it easy on an econo drive for the way back. Somehow managed to get home in 5 and a half hours though. No hold ups on single carriageway stuff anyway :)
I took some video a week or so, just managed to edit and cut the bumph out of it. Bit of a Foxystoat tribute thing. All within the NSL:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ykq9-1RFrWo
And video of the Dyno, the phone really struggled with the volume as were my ears. Seriously loud!
http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a341/leewa79/2GR-FE%20Swap/?action=view¤t=2GRDyno.mp4
Went through this one with the USA guys at work. Our 95RON is about equivalent to your 91MON Marc.
our pump gas is measured in (RON+MON)/2 so if that's the fuel spec, you're actually looking at what we refer to as "93 Octane" in the us. or "Premium". i put 92 or 93 octane in mine depending on what the station sells.
it just seems odd that it falls off at the top a bit more than i've seen before. maybe it's the Y'd exhaust. oh well, i'll find out soon enough. i'll be dynoing mine again with the equal length y-pipe i built to see if it makes a difference.
snowtigger
18-09-2010, 17:24
And if my car is ready for Santa pod they have a mobile dyno there so I may give it a whiz on there, interesting to find out what the split banks sound like and what effect it has on the dyno.
Congrats Lee, your motor looks and sounds really good. Maybe when I get mine's back i'll pop down for a wee gander. Well done matey.
any chance you can post a pic looking from underneath, showing the exhaust???> thanks
Sure, I'll take some in the morning as it's up on axle stands at the moment.
Here you go:
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2010/10/142.jpg
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2010/10/143.jpg
I'm thinking of reinstating the aircon. Even on fairly cool days as soon as the sun is on it it the heat builds up fast. And I haven't the option of removing t-bars on mine.
Got a few questions:
I never had the compressor sent across as I thought it wouldn't need it. Seeing as 2GR's are like rocking horse poo here, would a compressor from the much more common 2GR-FSE be compatible?
Can an aircon condensor be recored as easily and much the same way as a coolant radiator?
Idle up when turning on the aircon, is it really needed on the 2GR?
you need to tell the computer that the A/C is on, otherwise it messes with the learnt idle. there's just one wire you need to attach and signal when the A/C is on. your ECU is already compatible with it.
Cool, do you have any idea if the 2GR-FSE compressor my be a go-er? Failing that I'm going to have to source from your side of the water. Don't have any laying about for sale do you? lol
Think I have removed the plug and wires for the compressor when I stripped the loom down. VERY glad I kept all the plugs just in case though.
No idea on the FSE compressor but I think Paul still has a few from other installs that did not use them.
Paul Woods
31-10-2010, 14:11
Indeed, will swap one for hobnobs Lee :)
Lovely stuff!!!
you have a PM :)
Anyone have an EWD for an MR2 that isn't Rev1?
I'm about to wire in the electronic speedo sender but my the MR2 engine loom that is spliced into the 2GR loom is an old rev1 loom so no wiring for the speedo (yet). What goes to what pin on the speedo sender plug? I can work the rest out from the chassis loom to the speedo however I'm stumped on this bit.
Also made a start on the alloys the other day as they were pretty knackered.
This is the result of about 5 hours on the nearside front which had taken a real battering.
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2010/11/2.jpg
The centres will be sent away for powdercoating to somewhere that actually knows what they are doing this time.
Where had you previously sent your wheels to Lee, that didn't know what they were doing?
I've used 2 places about here, both good results for me, one in Prestwick and one in Renfrew. But the ones in prestwick buggered my tire.
I used a place called Ace performance or something like that near Lanark. He was quite disorganised and took ages to do them. When I eventually got them back they looked amazing but the laquer wasn't keyed to the polished section on 2 of them so as soon as I got a chip it crazed like mad. On 2 of the wheels I pulled the laquer off in one big wheel sized piece! lol
Also found corrosion was coming through the powder coat which if it had been prepped properly would just not happen after less than 2 years. I wouldn't have minded if it was a cheap job, but it wasn't.
carrick engineering in prestwick is pretty close to you. They did bugger my tire as it was a run flat and they didnt have the equip to put it back on iwth and forced it and sliced the sidewall, but the rims were done about 3 eyars ago and still look brand new (maybe cause I've only done about 1k). £35 a wheel but they are very limited in colour options. -
Skye Rd, Shawfarm Ind Est, Prestwick, Ayrshire
01292 678 889
The other one was Chameleon Wheel Refurbishment in Renfrew. Had them done recently on the wifes car, but not long enough test to see how they hold up. Look good though so far. They have a massive range of colours to choose from which is the benefit of them. Bit further away from you though. Again £35 a wheel. -
UNIT 8 STATION CRES
RENFREW PA4 8RA
0141 885 1714
edit - they both took about a week, but chameleon do it same day for £50 a wheel
Forgot that I didn't update on here what I threw back in the car just before I went away for work. To say I'm happy with it is an understatement, steve did an excellent job!
Not many photo's as my DSLR is dead and the point and click camera struggles like hell with the flourescent lights. So doesn't really do the retrim justice.
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2010/11/152.jpg
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2010/11/153.jpg
Also fitted the EMS powered Oil temp/pressure gauge and the Fuel/coolant temp gauge. Once I get home in 3 weeks time I'll get it all wired in and running sweet.
Also if anyone has the pinouts for the electronic speedo plug on the gearbox it would be really appreciated :thumbsup:
http://www.woodsport.org/forum/images/recovered/2010/11/154.jpg
dgh938peg
27-11-2010, 22:10
Looks great Lee - can't wait for Steve to do mine :D
Lee, which model of Recaro are those?
was looking at replacement seats as part of planned weight reduction when i get my MR2, been looking through Recaro and Probax sites!
Steve-x-edge
29-11-2010, 14:00
Lee, which model of Recaro are those?
was looking at replacement seats as part of planned weight reduction when i get my MR2, been looking through Recaro and Probax sites!
They're Recaro speeds. Optional upgrade I believe back in the day.
Steve
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
To say I'm happy with it is an understatement, steve did an excellent job!
+ 1 :thumbsup: Must say that looks outstanding, Lee.
Superb work Steve.
Cheers!
Yes i believe they are Recaro Speeds though not sure if this set is originally from an MR2, I've never seen that pattern and half leather before. The seat mounts are very factory looking though.
If it's weight reduction you're after stay away from these as they are not much different from stock. They do however have a mahooosive amount of heavy steelwork in the back section. I had a friend who rolled his car and they did a sterling job of holding up the roof on his T-bar.
Paul Woods
29-11-2010, 19:22
Stunning work Steve, you're going to be a busy guy with workmanship like that.
travisububarker
29-11-2010, 22:42
I had a pair of half leather recaro speeds the same as those, think they were rev4 optional extras? They're not a weight saving though as they're bloody heavy!
Awesome interior btw :-) really top notch
Jonny
Look's amazing, really makes the interior special.
Thanks for your comments on Recaro weight lads. Anyone got any suggestions for reclining seats that save weight and MUST be comfortable?
By the way Lee your car sits on its wheels just great!
snowtigger
30-11-2010, 11:32
Erm carbon fibre bride seats would be my choice but at a grand a seat pretty pricey.
Recaro, cobra,google reckliner carbonfibre sports seat.
Steve-x-edge
30-11-2010, 18:48
Thanks for the comments guys really appreciate them!
Can't wait for some pics from the DSLR Lee!
Steve
Thanks for the comments chaps, it's slowly coming together.
I had a pair of half leather recaro speeds the same as those, think they were rev4 optional extras? They're not a weight saving though as they're bloody heavy!
Awesome interior btw :-) really top notch
Jonny
Cheers Jonny
:icon_lol::icon_lol: These seats are the ones you had matey!!! Had a guy dye the sections that had worn slightly, look as close to new as you're going to get. Probably one of the best mods for the car as I found the stock seats difficult to get just right. These are perfect.
As far as weight reduction I had a mate who had some Recaro's fitted and they looked like they were made of very strong fibreglass with the thinnest of covering and padding. They were incredibly light and probably cheaper than carbon fibre jobbies. Not sure what model they were though. Might have been a discontinued Jap only version as I struggled to get my shoulders between the supports. If you see the size of me you'll know that shouldn't happen :smile:
Kenny- Get yourself and your car down here anytime matey I'm just down the road!
travisububarker
30-11-2010, 22:28
Ahhhhh that'll be why haha :D yeah I've never seen another set of half leathers anywhere. They are very comfortable seats, and look the absolute business
Jonny
Kenny- Get yourself and your car down here anytime matey I'm just down the road!
Once I get her back i'll give you a wee message.
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