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snazbaz
28-04-2008, 21:05
Hey chaps, finally sourced a camry so my swap can begin (just in time for the nice weather! :) - will be slow for the first few weeks since the garage is full of golf engine bits and pieces at the moment so I can't get the 3vz out yet!

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2140.jpg

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2139.jpg

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2137.jpg

The engine has 140k miles on it but so far looks like it has been well cared for and pulls nice and smooth.

The next few weeks will be spent selling unwanted parts of the camry (notice the brand new radiator? :D). I will also removing/cleaning/labelling up all the smaller bit and pieces. The garage is currently occupied with another project so I can't get the engine out yet:

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2133.jpg

Here is a picture of my rev2 turbo SW20 which is a potential target for the engine, however this is not set in stone yet (I may buy a cheap N/A instead).

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2142.jpg

I will probably go down the Fidanza flywheel route, do I need a N/A or Turbo box for this to work - and does anyone have a good link where I can buy one (the flywheel)?

-Ian

black_mk1
28-04-2008, 21:17
Good to see some progress in the SW :thumbsup:

You have a few options as I understand it.

You can use this with a full turbo clutch and turbo gearbox:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FIDANZA-FLYWHEEL-LEXUS-ES250-ES300-CAMRY-SOLARA_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em122QQcat egoryZ33732QQihZ006QQitemZ160233291394QQrdZ1QQsspa genameZWD2V

Or, you can use the same flywheel with an NA box but you need to use a Turbo pressure plate and NA friction plate (This is wht I have done).

This flywheel lets you use a NA gearbox and full NA clutch but you need the holes modified (4v6 does this):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FIDANZA-FLYWHEEL-CAMRY-CELICA-MR2-SOLARA-5SFE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em122QQcateg oryZ33732QQihZ005QQitemZ150239476832QQrdZ1QQsspage nameZWD2V

HTH and look forward to following another DIY thread :thumbsup:

I guess i'm not too far away so let me know if you need anything.....

snazbaz
29-04-2008, 17:33
Trust the weather to go bad as soon as I get my camry :confused:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2144.jpg

Here's some 4v6 art instead:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2143.jpg

Garbe
29-04-2008, 17:44
Get an umbrella and do the swap on the driveway - lol

Jiff Lemon
29-04-2008, 21:47
really good to see some home brew swaps happening! Both donors looking in fab condition.

Got yourself a nice 9" grinder for the camry? lol

snazbaz
01-05-2008, 22:13
Get an umbrella and do the swap on the driveway - lol

Bonnet is now poking almost under my porch :D Problem solved! Don't think the neighbours are too impressed though :roll:

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2150.jpg

snazbaz
02-05-2008, 22:08
Got yourself a nice 9" grinder for the camry? lol

:woc:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2166.jpg

Guessing I don't need any of this wiring (looks like just the lights) :fingersx:

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2162.jpg

Camry showing all it's bits:

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2163.jpg

snazbaz
03-05-2008, 22:13
Got some more stuff done today and have some questions!

Firstly, tried undoing the crank pulley bolt...

Couldn't figure out if you could get the auto box in gear somehow to make this easier, and the belts just slipped when doing it that way (even tensioned up as much as I dare). In the end opted for starter motor power:

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2167.jpg

One broken socket later and it's loose :D

Played some naughts and crosses on the camry:

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2174.jpg

1) Inlet and throttle body is pretty manky, is this bad?

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2175.jpg

2) What are the things I need to take off and get modified by Mr Woods? Is this one of them?

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2171.jpg

3) Other than the looms that go into the 4 plugs that go into the ECU, am I right in thinking I don't need any of the other wiring from the car?

4) Do I use the camry coil or the mr2 coil?

5) I've noticed most people seem to take the whole engine+gearbox out of the camry, is it possible to seperate them in situ and just lift the engine out or is this difficult?

black_mk1
03-05-2008, 22:28
1) Inlet and throttle body is pretty manky, is this bad?
This is pretty normal, caused by the EGR and engine breathers....

2) What are the things I need to take off and get modified by Mr Woods? Is this one of them?
Yep, that's the Idle Speed Control Valve.

3) Other than the looms that go into the 4 plugs that go into the ECU, am I right in thinking I don't need any of the other wiring from the car?
Yep, just 6" of loom and the 4th ECU plug, that's all.

4) Do I use the camry coil or the mr2 coil?
You need the camry coil, take it off along with the bracket because you need the camry igniter and there is a little "thing" on the bracket too.

5) I've noticed most people seem to take the whole engine+gearbox out of the camry, is it possible to seperate them in situ and just lift the engine out or is this difficult?
I got my engine from a breakers so can't comment but imagine it's easier to rip the lot out.

HTH
Good progress so far btw.

snazbaz
03-05-2008, 23:03
HTH
Good progress so far btw.

Thanks for help so far :thumbsup:

Bonus picture of today's casualties:

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2182.jpg

Conor
04-05-2008, 00:32
Haha.. nothing like a good ol' rip-and-tear job :)

Recommendations:
- Air compressor
- 700lb-ft+ 1/2" drive impact gun
- 1/2" drive impact sockets

;)

Marksman
04-05-2008, 10:20
Just to add to what's been said I'd certainly take the engine and gearbox out as a whole and split out of the car.

Have fun,

Owen.

snazbaz
04-05-2008, 21:34
Engine almost ready to remove now, think there's just a few bastard pipes that I need to take off from underneath left.

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2184.jpg

Ball joint fixings killed 2 more cheap sockets:

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2187.jpg

So the driveshafts have been brutalized by my brother:

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2189.jpg

Downpipes off:

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2188.jpg

4 litres of petrol drained (at current prices you need all you can get!)

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2186.jpg

Engine may be coming out tomorrow if weather is nice.

OlberJ
04-05-2008, 23:08
Engine may be coming out tomorrow if weather is nice.

Does it's parents know? :ghey:

snazbaz
05-05-2008, 21:28
Well, since we've now broken 4 sockets from 2 cheap sets, meaning I don't have any sockets of those sizes... though I'd buy some better ones:

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2193.jpg

Ended up spilling a lot of oil over our drive (and neighbours :shifty: ) Any good advice on getting rid of it effectively?

Engine almost ready to come out:

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2194.jpg

Should have left the inlet plenum on, as the lifting bracket at the rear has bent now over the cam cover (at least these are metal)

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2200.jpg

Out:

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2197.jpg

This photo makes it look really huge:

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2201.jpg

Moments later:

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2202.jpg

Gearbox is off:

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2206.jpg

And this: :)

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2213.jpg

Engine will live here for a few weeks until our engine stand is free:

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2211.jpg

Phew:

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2212.jpg

superchargedsam
05-05-2008, 21:31
gunki do a really good drive cleaner, brush it on leave it 15 mins then wash it off job done! see you have pissed ya neighbour off so much they are selling :hidesbehi great work by the way!

OlberJ
05-05-2008, 21:39
Nice work, get some sand on the oil and it'll soak it up then brush it away.

You'll need a cleaner to get rid of the mark though.

snazbaz
05-05-2008, 21:41
gunki do a really good drive cleaner, brush it on leave it 15 mins then wash it off job done! see you have pissed ya neighbour off so much they are selling :hidesbehi great work by the way!

Has been for sale for almost a year now, owner bought it cheap (it was in a state) to do up and sell on for profit. There are 3 properties for sale in this corner of the road all seemingly suffering from the house market problems at the moment. Advertised price for next door has been dropped £20k in the last 6 months I think!

Tim Higgott
05-05-2008, 21:47
Top job. Looking really good.

snazbaz
12-05-2008, 13:02
Build on hold for a while because I need garage space and also sort out the tarmac which has some rather nasty unmoveable oil stains on it now.

Has anyone had their tarmac driveway done/redone recently and know what kind of prices are about right for ~ 40sqm re-surfacing? I really know bugger all about tarmac/driveways.

snazbaz
26-05-2008, 21:24
Painted a few bits and pieces..

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2355.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2369.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2347.jpg

Haven't done much else, but should be getting the 3vz inside the garage and on the stand soon, now that my brother's engine is in:

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2366.jpg

Bonus angle grinding picture:

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2387.jpg

snazbaz
27-05-2008, 23:55
Got the engine onto my slightly under-qualified mount..

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2410.jpg

Let me know if anyone has any concerns about my dodgy bolts:

Two bolts are in like this:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2413.jpg

Both these bolts are in the holes all the way through to the other side (~3cm).
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2412.jpg

Edit: Improved these now:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2628.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2629.jpg

Do I want the axle carrier?
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2416.jpg

Garbe
28-05-2008, 10:30
Why did you not use some washers on the bolts?

jimgreen
28-05-2008, 11:00
I guess you tightened up that bottom bolt :) ??

snazbaz
29-05-2008, 00:18
I thought they were a bit dodgy :hidesbehi

Fetched some washers today and will refit them properly tomorrow.

Snapped the plastic on this:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2434.jpg

Timing:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2426.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2437.jpg

Loom:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2422.jpg

jimgreen
29-05-2008, 15:55
don't worry about the snapped bits I did the same, I don't think they are really needed (Woods agrees). Only turns vac on for the charcoal canister. I just have mine sucking all the time.

snazbaz
29-05-2008, 22:05
Front bank:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2442.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2446.jpg
Rear bank:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2445.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2452.jpg

Stow-away:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2447.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2448.jpg

snazbaz
07-06-2008, 14:01
How important is it for me to remove these small bits of rust on the underside of my cam cover?

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2599.jpg

Garbe
07-06-2008, 20:04
I'd give it a clean, it's just more crud that if it goes into the oil it may cause some wear. Hardly anything there but might aswell clean it while its off.

chr15_84t3
07-06-2008, 22:29
I'd give it a clean, it's just more crud that if it goes into the oil it may cause some wear. Hardly anything there but might aswell clean it while its off.

what he said ^^^^^ :thumbsup:

snazbaz
11-06-2008, 13:03
Rear head off:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2644.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2646.jpg
Front head off:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2645.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2647.jpg
Bits:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2654.jpg
Block:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2651.jpg
Front:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2652.jpg
Rear:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2653.jpg

This is only the second block I've seen ever, what kind of things should I look out for in terms of wear/problems?

Cheers

snazbaz
11-06-2008, 18:16
Test fitted the painted covers:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2659.jpg

snazbaz
17-06-2008, 19:27
Having a bad day today.

First dropped a washer into the crankcase...

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2716.jpg

Managed to get it out eventually with a magnet and some pliars though.

Then I snapped this stud on the oil pickup: :(

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2715.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2719.jpg

*sigh*

Garbe
17-06-2008, 21:27
Bad luck mate, but when doing my swap I snapped loads of studs, just another learning curve. Anyhow, that one still has plenty of stud left to get it out.

Bev
18-06-2008, 02:38
Get a pack of easy outs. Look them up online. They're bloody easy to use.

snazbaz
20-06-2008, 18:49
Goodies arrived today from the US:

£136 + £36 import VAT/handling fee for the lot:

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2720.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2724.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2725.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2726.jpg

Also... :idea:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2723.jpg























:liar:
Just kidding, that's going back in a 200sx. ;)

way2fast
20-06-2008, 19:52
Thats the same gasket set i bought, most seem to be pretty decent, well the ones that really matter anyways, the only thing i didn't like about them were the felt gaskets for the t-body and the acis plate, but all the others are good. 3 layer metal for the exhaust, decent looking head gaskets. just finishing the wiring on my car so no miles on them yet but when i do i'll post up how they turb out.

snazbaz
26-06-2008, 20:48
Removed valves
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2736.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2741.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2742.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2743.jpg

Gradually taking over more of the kitchen
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2746.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2740.jpg

Difference between stock exhaust/intake stem seals:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2738.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2737.jpg

Going to take the heads to be skimmed and have the valve seats cut, anything else that's worth getting done while I'm there?

OlberJ
26-06-2008, 20:53
Bit of portin maybe?

snazbaz
26-06-2008, 20:57
Bit of portin maybe?

Already deliberated over getting Tony todo them, but decided today I couldn't really afford the extra extravagance at the moment :(

snazbaz
04-07-2008, 18:22
Shiney shiney:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2753.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2759.jpg

Might get them back on this weekend.

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2756.jpg

frisp
04-07-2008, 19:48
I just love bling :D

Awsome work. :)

OlberJ
04-07-2008, 20:06
Snazbaz, how do u get ur plastic so black?

frisp
04-07-2008, 20:08
Boot polish? :hidesbehi

OlberJ
04-07-2008, 20:36
Hookers from Poland?

How does that work? lol

snazbaz
04-07-2008, 20:56
Snazbaz, how do u get ur plastic so black?

Ta-da:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2764.jpg

OlberJ
04-07-2008, 23:12
Oooh, where'd u buy that? How much?

snazbaz
05-07-2008, 08:17
Oooh, where'd u buy that? How much?

I got it from here when it first came out: http://www.carnaubawaxshop.co.uk/black-wow.html

Quite expensive considering the bottle is pretty small.

MOG7
05-07-2008, 10:34
Swap is looking great mate, keep it up:thumbsup:

gtech
05-07-2008, 10:47
I got it from here when it first came out: http://www.carnaubawaxshop.co.uk/black-wow.html

Quite expensive considering the bottle is pretty small.


Awesome stuff "Block Wow" and def worth the money, had minefor about a year now and only used about an 1/8th of the bottle...........Nice build by the way ;-)

snazbaz
05-07-2008, 13:27
Did some valves this morning:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSC00029.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSC00031.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSC00034.jpg

Took me about 30 minutes to figure out which head was which, since with everything removed they are basically identical and I hadn't marked them. For reference, my front head has a '9' stamped on the gearbox side where as the rear has a '6'. Also the front has '2' stamped on the inside between the head bolt holes and the rear head has a '1'.

OlberJ
05-07-2008, 13:55
You can also tell by where the dizzy cap enters the head, as long as u've not removed the plug from the other head.

snazbaz
05-07-2008, 13:56
Received EGR plates from Paff today, cheers!

Fitted:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSC00037.jpg

snazbaz
05-07-2008, 13:58
You can also tell by where the dizzy cap enters the head, as long as u've not removed the plug from the other head.

I removed everything as the heads went to the machine shop for skimming.

Also: should I do anything special when re-fitting that plug? Thinking of some RTV to ensure it doesn't leak.

snazbaz
05-07-2008, 15:29
Just found this beast in one the coolant passageways in the head! :confused:

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSC00038.jpg

Paul Woods
05-07-2008, 15:59
just read through your build thread baz,awesome work mate.

snazbaz
05-07-2008, 16:37
just read through your build thread baz,awesome work mate.

Thanks for the ISC valve Paul :) I'm looking forward to studying your wiring guide soon :D

Someone tell me: How big a deal is the ratio differences between Turbo and N/A gearboxes when used with the v6? Will I feel like I'm missing out on the proper N/A ratios if I use the turbo box or is it negligible?

Paul Woods
05-07-2008, 16:43
to us it feels like quite a lot.... i much prefer the NA box with the v6,plus its a lot lighter... my ultimate set up is the one i have now,NA box,mk3 LSD unit,extended 5th gear set and celica supported shaft,drivetrain utopia!

snazbaz
06-07-2008, 19:41
I know you guys are suckers for pictures so here's some more now that the valves are back in:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2798.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2810.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2809.jpg

OlberJ
06-07-2008, 20:25
Have u been using Woodsy's camera Baz? lol

snazbaz
08-07-2008, 21:23
Having a few issues putting the cams back in lined up properly:

The autozone manual says:

Intake cam:
'Position the camshaft at a 90° angle to the two pointed marks on the cylinder head.'

Exhaust cam:
'Position the camshaft into the head so that the two pointed marks are aligned on the drive and driven gears.'

Which are the marks it is referring to? :confused:

biteme
08-07-2008, 22:44
Here ya go! We share cos we care....:mrgreen:

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j256/4v6/Camtimingdiagram.jpg

Love it turkish!

OohMatron
09-07-2008, 09:05
Love it turkish!

You gotta love that TB attitude, brings back all my warm fuzzy feelings ;)

biteme
09-07-2008, 09:31
You gotta love that TB attitude, brings back all my warm fuzzy feelings ;)

Aye, that's just what it's been built up on. Sad to see some take advantage of it!

snazbaz
09-07-2008, 18:12
Here ya go! We share cos we care....:mrgreen:

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j256/4v6/Camtimingdiagram.jpg

Thankyou just what I needed, why can't the proper manuals include useful diagrams like this!

Rear head now mostly done and looks like this:

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2859.jpg

snazbaz
12-07-2008, 18:37
Not very happy with the fit of the cam cover gaskets I got in my gasket set, so I'm binning them and doing it with RTV:

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2890.jpg

Paul Woods
12-07-2008, 18:43
baz im not sure that will be enough mate,we found they still leak like that,the best way is to use the gasket AND rtv....

what was wrong with the new gaskets?

snazbaz
12-07-2008, 19:01
The new gaskets don't seem to fit that great at the corners of the big half moons - they protude more there than elsewhere and I wasn't convinced it would seal very evenly.

I was planning on letting the RTV dry like it is in that pic, then run another pea sized line around and then put it on like that, a bit like the sump is sealed.

I might try this method on one cover and gasket + RTV on the other and see what happens.

Do we in general know why on earth they leak so badly?

Paul Woods
12-07-2008, 19:05
ah thats normal.... they do sit like that,but you RTV them as well in the corners and it seals that way.

Without RTV in the "half moon" corners is why they leak.

snazbaz
12-07-2008, 19:10
I think am going to take your advice and scrape all that RTV out again! :eek2:

hmmmmm
12-07-2008, 19:51
to us it feels like quite a lot.... i much prefer the NA box with the v6,plus its a lot lighter... my ultimate set up is the one i have now,NA box,mk3 LSD unit,extended 5th gear set and celica supported shaft,drivetrain utopia!

Paul, whats this about the celica supported driveshaft's? I think is missed a topic somewhere.. Ive already got the NA box and looking into the extended 5th gear but whats wrong with the NA shaft's? In other words whats the advantage of the celica shafts?

OlberJ
14-07-2008, 14:10
supported shaft gives u equal lengths of shaft on each side, hence nae torque steer.

Or less at least.

Paul Woods
14-07-2008, 18:50
yep indeedy do ^^^^^^^ :thumbsup:

grab some front wheel drive NA celica shafts,make a carrier bracket for the long shaft,roberts your mothers brother.

snazbaz
25-07-2008, 17:46
So after 2 weeks I have the parts I've broken or lost:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2927.jpg

So finally I can finish putting everything back together
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2928.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2929.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2930.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2944.jpg

Do not ask where I dropped this or how long it took to get it out :eek2:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2939.jpg

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2948.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF2945.jpg

OlberJ
25-07-2008, 20:07
You dropped it down a waterway didn't you.

Easily done :blush: took me about an hour to calm down when the old yin did it and another hour to get the fucker out.

snazbaz
09-09-2008, 20:12
Could someone sanity check this timing please? All the marks line up again after 720 degrees of turning over (but the marks on the belt never come back round the same place).

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3246.jpg

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3247.jpg

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3248.jpg

OlberJ
09-09-2008, 20:26
Ignore the marks actually on the belt, as long as it's 0 on the crank and both top marks lined up you're in there.

snazbaz
13-09-2008, 21:34
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3259.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3262.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3288.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3289.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3300.jpg

Now, where do these lot go? I think the yellow was connected to EGR previously, blank it?
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3285.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3286.jpg

Also is this where this earth went?
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3298.jpg

And I snapped off this middle sump bolt, do you think I'll get away with it or should I try and get it out (I could, but it will be a pain in the arse!)
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3296.jpg

Bev
14-09-2008, 07:21
For the broken bolt, give a tiny easy out a go. They're great.

Bev

Garbe
14-09-2008, 11:43
Those to red ringed bits join together with a bit of tubing that has a valve of some sort in the middle.

The yellow highlighted pipe, if its the one that went to the egr thingy that was attahced at the bottom of the plnum, then you need to replce the pipe with a longer bit and that should go to the bit that paul modifies (ISCV valve)to sort the tick over.

IIRC the earth strap should attach to the intake plenum, up the side of it where the brake servo hose is.

snazbaz
14-09-2008, 21:42
Those to red ringed bits join together with a bit of tubing that has a valve of some sort in the middle.

The yellow highlighted pipe, if its the one that went to the egr thingy that was attahced at the bottom of the plnum, then you need to replce the pipe with a longer bit and that should go to the bit that paul modifies (ISCV valve)to sort the tick over.

IIRC the earth strap should attach to the intake plenum, up the side of it where the brake servo hose is.

Thanks, found that tubing with the valve on (comes with a bracket that looks like it goes on the water by-pass jobby) in my box of bits, had completely forgotten about it until you mentioned it.

Got the engine 80% ready to come out today:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3306.jpg

Didn't want to miss the F1 of course:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3305.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3309.jpg

Kitchen taking an invasion of car:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3310.jpg

Where do these go?
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3293.jpg

snazbaz
16-09-2008, 20:15
Didn't have the greatest of days today..spent about 4 hours messing around with driveshafts...

Then tried to drop the engine down onto my bodged dolly which resulted in this:

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3320.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3321.jpg

So I've bought this to try tomorrow:

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3323.jpg

Paul Woods
17-09-2008, 06:50
i tried to move an engine on one of those once,it folded the wheels lol

snazbaz
17-09-2008, 14:01
i tried to move an engine on one of those once,it folded the wheels lol

Oh ye of little faith!

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3336.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3339.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3338.jpg

Okay time for a driveshaft lesson; how the f:rant:k do I get the half axle bit here off without breaking anything?

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3340.jpg

snazbaz
17-09-2008, 14:45
Nevermind, just need to figure out how to get the shaft working in the 3vz carrier bracket now.

dgh938peg
17-09-2008, 20:47
Wouldn't wreck a trolley for an engine. To get mine back under i put it on a sheet of ply with 2 holes in it, tied a length of rope to it then dragged it under using my Audi A6. Piece of piss! lump in the car and on 3 mounts in under 30 mins!

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/images/recovered/2008/09/112.jpg

snazbaz
18-09-2008, 21:18
Flywheel is off being modified by 4v6 (lifesaver :thumbsup: ), in the meantime I'm painting bits up and sorting out the hoses and other bits and pieces.

New clutch:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3358.jpg

Old vs new ARB bushes:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3352.jpg

Mess:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3359.jpg

OlberJ
19-09-2008, 08:58
Loving the wooden hoist, impressive lol

snazbaz
19-09-2008, 21:54
Question about the clutch release arm - I just replaced the release bearing (and took the arm off in the process). When I put it back on it feels loose on the ball joint (it was definitely not like this before).

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3367.jpg

Have I lost something when I had it off or have I not tightened the clip up inside the arm enough? It can currently move around 10mm up and down the joint.

snazbaz
19-09-2008, 23:45
Okay still haven't got it. :confused:

Just to clarify here's what I've done:

This is the back of the arm and the clip:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3368.jpg
I've tightened the clip and put it in the groove in the arm:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3370.jpg
Then I put the arm over the ball, I know the clip is going past the widest part of the ball because it needs a decent push to get it on.

Here's some pictures I've tried to get of what it looks behind the arm once installed:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3373.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3374.jpg

It might be that it is really fine, but I'm 99% sure it was a lot firmer than this before. I guess when it's installed the clutch will stop it moving around too much, I'm just worried about having to have it out again if I've got it wrong!

snazbaz
20-09-2008, 20:21
Going to stick the gearbox on and then check the feel of the clutch lever before I decide if it's okay.

Got flywheel back from 4v6 today, less than 48 hours after I sent it! Thanks Tony. Everyone who has seen it has complimented the quality workmanship!

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3376.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3378.jpg

Fitted:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3382.jpg

And clutch:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3384.jpg

I didn't put loctite on the small 12mm headed bolts around the pressure plate, any problem with that? (I figured I didn't want them too tight if I ever take them off again that they snap)

I am still finishing off a few other bits and pieces but should be able to put the engine in tomorrow with any luck.

snazbaz
22-09-2008, 16:48
New goodies (didn't get stung on import duty! :thumbsup: )
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3445.jpg

My trusty halfords creeper in action:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3448.jpg

Where did it go?
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3449.jpg

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3453.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3450.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3456.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3452.jpg

New brass bushings for the gear cables:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3455.jpg

Garbe
22-09-2008, 17:46
Well done, great feeling when you finally get the engine in :thumbsup:

jimgreen
22-09-2008, 18:01
Looking at the loom I'd say a while :)

Looks ace mate, bet you cant wait!

snazbaz
22-09-2008, 18:16
Hopefully going to try and fire it up by the end of the week, needs the following first:

1) Reconnect clutch cylinder/rear mount
2) Heater plumbing
3) Bolt on starter motor and ISCV
4) Bolt on coil/igniter pack
5) Fuel line plumbing (done half of this already)
6) Wiring
7) Fill with fluids

Then before I can drive it I need todo:

- O/S shaft CV Boot
- Fit bushes
- Get the e153 shaft into the 3vz axle carrier
- Stick shafts/suspension/subframe back together
- Put exhaust downpipe/Y-section on and secure somehow (I plan drive it like that to a place to get the exhaust properly fabricated.)

snazbaz
24-09-2008, 19:04
Done the clutch cylinder, gear cables, starter motor, petrol hoses and some misc bits and pieces.

EGR blanking on rear bank:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3458.jpg

Can someone help me with what I should be doing with these?

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3464.jpg
Couldn't seem to get the 3vz shaft out of it's carrier for a start!

Is it easier to make a bracket to use the 3sgte carrier on the 3vz-fe block or easier to get the e153 shaft working in the 3vz carrier?

Paul Woods
24-09-2008, 19:31
you need to remove the v6 shaft from its bracket,and remove the turbo shaft from its bracket.

Then cut the engine mount off the v6 bracket so its just the carrier bit.

Then you need to remove the bearing from the turbo shaft (remove rear dust shield,remove circlip,knock bearing off shaft)

You then need to make a 4mm thick washer that is the same ID as the OD of the shaft where the bearing sits.The washer needs to be about 5mm from its ID to OD.

Now you need to machine a new circlip groove 4mm towards the diff end of the turbo shaft,i do this machine work with a thin grinder disk lol

Now slide the 4mm washer on first,then bearing,then refit the circlip and dust shield,and install the new shaft/bearing set up into the v6 carrier bracket AFTER the bracket is bolted to the engine.

snazbaz
25-09-2008, 19:48
Thanks Paul, got the turbo shaft/carrier apart easily, 3vz one being a pain in the arse though so I'll get my brother to take it into his garage tomorrow and use their press. Then I can see where I'm at.

Started wiring today, pretty much all the other major things are done. Just waiting delivery of a couple of heater hoses!

snazbaz
26-09-2008, 16:26
Damn hose hasn't arrived yet, but made a lot of progress on the wiring:

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3484.jpg

In fact, I'm almost in the position where I could think about trying to fire it up. However I don't have my O/S driveshaft (and therefore no gearbox oil) or all the radiator hoses (therefore coolant) at the moment. Would be okay to try and run it for a few seconds though?

Also painted this:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3468.jpg

Marksman
26-09-2008, 17:04
OK to run for a few seconds, yes. But for me I'll not try and start an engine before the car is ready to drive. The frustration of vroom vroom noises coming from a car with no driveshafts for example would drive me insane!

Good luck :thumbsup:

Owen.

snazbaz
27-09-2008, 12:16
It's ALIVE!!!

Video coming soon. Phwoar it's meaty

snazbaz
27-09-2008, 16:07
Can't find a DV Firewire cable :x

Might have to go and buy a new one just so I can post up the video!

snazbaz
28-09-2008, 19:04
Ordered a cable so should be able to post a video of the engine running (no exhaust :D) mid-week!

Meanwhile been tidying up the bay and finishing bits and pieces off. Axle carrier is still the bane of my existance atm and apart from that and the big heater hose (still not delievered :( ) those are pretty much the only main things left!

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3507.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3509.jpg

Oh yeah, I read in someone's thread that you should shorten the throttle cable using electrical blocks at the pedal end? I take it that means cut the cable then fasten into the block at a shorter length? Is that really strong enough, sounds a bit sketchy to me!

jimgreen
28-09-2008, 22:20
Oh yeah, I read in someone's thread that you should shorten the throttle cable using electrical blocks at the pedal end? I take it that means cut the cable then fasten into the block at a shorter length? Is that really strong enough, sounds a bit sketchy to me!

That's exactly what I thought "Bit of a bodge?!" But I tried it, and I've been hammering it ever since and it hasn't shifted at all :thumbsup:

snazbaz
28-09-2008, 22:31
That's exactly what I thought "Bit of a bodge?!" But I tried it, and I've been hammering it ever since and it hasn't shifted at all :thumbsup:

At least if it snaps it'll be obvious and it'll just idle over to the side of the road where I can reattach it :D

snazbaz
01-10-2008, 19:26
Video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=itxqM_0vw8w

snazbaz
02-10-2008, 21:19
One of my colleagues was kind enough to knock me up a spacer for the shaft:

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3526.jpg

ANd got the new bearing from toyota:

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3525.jpg

Paul do you angle grind the new groove in the shaft right next to the existing groove or try to leave 1mm in between the two? Nervous about screwing up my shaft as that would be costly!

Paul Woods
03-10-2008, 06:57
There needs to be 4mm between the groove centres (obviously because a 4mm spacer is fitted) and this results in about a 2-3mm gap between the grooves.

snazbaz
04-10-2008, 19:59
Sorted the drive shaft only to come up against another problem :(

Have a fairly significant water leak coming from driver's side. Trickles a constant stream off the side of the sump. Obvious would be water pump but it's a pretty significant leak I'd have to have really fucked up for a gap to be this big! The thought that I might have to take the engine out again has drained me for today, will make a proper attempt tomorrow to try and locate the leak..

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3537.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/DSCF3542.jpg

snazbaz
05-10-2008, 10:21
Found the leak, there is a bolt hole near the thermostat with no bolt in it pissing out water. Guess I just plug this up? I have a banjo bolt that would go in there but nothing to connect with it.

snazbaz
05-10-2008, 15:19
Didn't have any normal bolts with the same thread size so filled the bolt with some silicone and used 3 copper washers on it. Seems to be holding fine. Ran the engine for a few minutes now until I couldn't stand the fumes any longer. Seems to idle okish. It's not too loud with camry downpipes on either. Took a new video of it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdSlQ5_1_Hs

Got a minor fuel leak on number 3 injector and an air leak somewhere around the plenum :( but will concentrate on getting the car back on the road first.

snazbaz
10-10-2008, 18:54
I have now officially spent 2-3x more time on a single fecking CV joint this week than I have on the entire wiring for the car or almost any other useful thing I've ever done.

And it's STILL in peices again as I type this.

stevehall
15-12-2008, 16:07
How's this project coming along snazbaz, it's been a while since your last update?
It's also sparked off a couple of questions from me.
What did you do with your valves to improve the seal, mine are in a similar state to your before photo and would like them to be like the 'after'. Was it just grinding paste and lapping, or did you do something more?


HTH
Quote:
Originally Posted by snazbaz
2) What are the things I need to take off and get modified by Mr Woods? Is this one of them?
Yep, that's the Idle Speed Control Valve.


Why does the ISCV need modifiying? This has confused me no end.

----

For anyone reading this thread, the ISCV mod is explained here:
http://forums.twobrutal.com/showthread.php?t=6268&highlight=pocvips&page=2

snazbaz
07-04-2009, 00:43
I actually forgot to update this at the start of the winter with my clutch problem but the whole thing has been on hold until now when I finally have some enthusiasm back.

Maybe someone can shed light on this:

Clutch doesn't seem to disengage. It seems fine up to the box (i never disconnected the hyrdaulics anyway, just unbolted them) and you can see the release arm move ~1.5inches from outside. However whatever is happening inside hte box isn't disengaging the clutch (can't put it into gear while it's running).

Possible reasons (can someone debunk or confirm what they think is most likely):

1) The release arm that I was paranoid about a couple of pages back was fitted wrong.
2) I have fitted the driven plate the wrong way round or the wrong plate.
3) I have the wrong pressure plate?

For the record: e153 LSD box, 3vz-fe, original 3sgte flywheel modified pcd, 3sgte clutch/pressure plate (exedy).

I'll be taking it all back out again soon to have a look.

Ian

carsounds_dan
10-04-2009, 16:47
well as a general rule the clutch plate being the wrong way round would just slip like crazy so there is some clearance issues somewhere. can you hear any movement/knocking etc as the clutch is actuated? like the release arm unclipping itself? either that or there is a serious clearance issue. was it hard to bolt the clutch cover on? or went on without any real issue?
could you move the friction plate around inside the cover?
start simple is what I'd say.. or look through all of your old photo's etc and see if there is anything obviously wrong.
Cheers
Dan

snazbaz
04-06-2009, 22:22
Today I have been having FUN. Here's a clue:

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/IMG_0075.jpg

Fuel tank is officially a bastard:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/IMG_0090.jpg

This came out of the fuel tank:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/IMG_0081.jpg

If it leaks again and I have to take the tank out again it I'll be taking a hammer to the car:
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/IMG_0084.jpg

I have new found respect for anyone else who has done this on the dusty floor of your garage with an axle stands worth of clearance and one pair of hands.
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/IMG_0099.jpg

Also I found 1 yen!!

OlberJ
04-06-2009, 22:46
Ocht, it's no that hard once you've done a few tank drops on your back on the dust :D

Amazing what you find on the tank though, we had a moose nest on Tims swap!

AlunJ
05-06-2009, 03:37
I have new found respect for anyone else who has done this on the dusty floor of your garage with an axle stands worth of clearance and one pair of hands.

There's an art to it ya know. Lie flat on yer back and support the fuel tank with one arm and both knees. Undo retainers with remaining limb.
Then hope it doesn't drop on your 'nads when you undo the last bolt lol

Y'know, a moose bit my sister once.....

OlberJ
05-06-2009, 09:01
lol Show us yer moose!

snazbaz
05-06-2009, 21:18
I think this is pretty much final engine bay now bar x-brace

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/IMG_0102.jpg
http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/IMG_0105.jpg

Marksman
05-06-2009, 21:56
Nicely done :thumbsup:

Owen.

OlberJ
06-06-2009, 00:24
Nope, try as i might i can't see it.


Oh no wait, i've got it. All you need is some yellow! lol


Good effort on getting it this far.

snazbaz
06-06-2009, 18:02
Lend me your ears please, I'm rubbish at these things.

Is the air induction/leaky noise present in this video normal or is it a leak? It sounds air-related to me but I can't figure out where the hell it's coming from other than it seems to be around the plenum area but I can't figure for the life of me figure out where.

It does change with engine speed but I forgot to get that in the vid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlHJORK_L_g

Whore of Babylon
07-06-2009, 05:28
Idd slop (carefuly BTW) some soapy water about see if any bubbles form. just like a leaky tyre.

Marksman
07-06-2009, 09:32
Possibly more likely to be vac than pressure though?

Owen.

Paul Woods
07-06-2009, 09:40
Spray various areas of the engine with easystart, the engine note will change when you find the leak.

snazbaz
18-06-2009, 17:47
Engine running a bit nicer now with exhaust attached. No CAT so am a little nervous about it getting through it's MOT next week.

Car is a lot more torquey that I expected much better than the turbo!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRW_lDBXtpc

http://www.ipacker.co.uk/photos/v6/IMG_0155.jpg

kenny.c
18-06-2009, 19:00
I must say that sounds really nice, good luck with your MOT.

OlberJ
18-06-2009, 19:57
That sounds top drawer that does :thumbsup:

snazbaz
21-06-2009, 17:30
Is the 3vz oil dipstick still accurate when it's in the mr2?

Also should I be seeing any error codes? Have double checked my dash engine light/te1/e1 connections but when I bridge them I don't get anything.

Paul Woods
21-06-2009, 17:38
Does your CEL light up when you switch the ignition on?

yes the dipstick is correct.

snazbaz
21-06-2009, 18:05
Does your CEL light up when you switch the ignition on?


Yes it does and stays on with all the other lights until I start the car and then goes out.

I even buzzed it through to the clocks from pin 4(? - green one) on the ECU plug. And I've buzzed E1 to earth and TE1/TE2 across E1 gives me 12v with ignition on.

I've tried it all about 10 times now, sometimes when I bridge TE1/E1 the idle drops if that's any indication that it's acually doing something! I wouldn't be worried except for the fact that I thought I should be getting one error code even if nothing is wrong.

Paul Woods
21-06-2009, 18:22
you should at least be getting one continuous flash with no codes stored....

OlberJ
21-06-2009, 21:52
He'll have code 42, no?

Paul Woods
22-06-2009, 06:56
I meant immediately after connecting the battery on a fresh install, should at least get a constant flash or a 42 after it has been run.

snazbaz
24-06-2009, 19:52
I think I've been mixing up the engine fan warning light and the check engine light and in fact don't even have the check engine light come up at all. Still need to look into that properly.

However, I know you love videos so here's one I took while driving back from the MOT this morning (only failed on steering rack gaitor and headlight alignment).

Emissions (no cat):
CO 0.180%
HC 235 ppm

!!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Lg7vr6wrtE

Garbe
25-06-2009, 13:44
Good news, only minor items not swap related.

snazbaz
26-06-2009, 19:19
Now passed MOT and taxed road legal again :)

The noise is really nice and has been getting a lot of attention. Still some niggles to sort out. Noticed today that it doesn't like cranking when hot so think I need to check starter motor and wiring to it/battery wiring. Also the starter relay is getting hotter than it should because I haven't fitted the rear exhaust manifold heat shield yet.