Spark issue

[blackbob]

I have the 12v feed to the ignitor and ground problem we had fixed and I still have no spark going to the plugs. I even have the correct ignitor last four 2010. As far as I know it is compatible with the V6 harness and ECU. So I have come to the conclusion that the issue is somewhere between the ignitor,coil,and ECU. If all of these have these have power and test like they should,what could the problem be ?

[blackbob]

Well you should see 12volts at the injectors (common feed white/red wire), 12volts at the ignition coil + terminal (same white/red wire) and 12 volts at terminal +B (pin number 3 ignitor) also white/red wire when you turn to ignition on the key.

If you have all those feeds correctly wired, then you need to start checking ground connections.

Terminal 2 ignition coil goes to pin 5 on the ignitor, marked coil - (minus).
Ignitor pin1 (IGF) should go to pin 17 plug A on the ecu wire coloured white/red.
Ignitor pin 2(IGT) should go to pin 18 plug A on the ecu, wire coloured white.
Ignitor pin 4(IG-) should go to ig- on the diagnostic connector and also Tees off to the tachometer circuit in the instrument panel, wire coloured black.
Make sure your distributors plugged in otherwise youll get no signal to tell the ecu to kick the ignitor into action.

Regarding the black/orange wires from your other thread.
Pin 13 plug D on the ecu goes to 7.5a ign fuse.
Pins 12 and 1 on plug D join together and from there go to pin 2 on the cor, teeing off to pin 4 on the efi main relay, pins 2+5 on the iscv and pin 2 on the O2 sensor.

Just recheck you have feeds and grounds where theyre supposed to be on the diagram i sent you and youll sort it fairly rapidly.
Thanks Tony,
I know it's a REALLY stupid issue because outside of this everything is working ( even all the lights on the dash . So I know it's only a matter of time before we find it and she's alive !!!!

[Paul Woods]

im going to be really silly here.... the distributor is plugged in isnt it? its easy to leave that plug off by mistake

[Paul Woods]

:thumbsup: good show,just checking.... has actual output from the coil been checked or just at the plugs? also you can eliminate quite a lot if you wire an LED onto the two low tension coil terminals and watch it pulse brightly on cranking... just a quickie that one

[Paul Woods]

yeah i love my noid light,best thing ever! feckers wont pulse if you get the polarity wrong though so bear that in mind when testing the coil terminals with an LED... must be + to + and - to -

[blackbob]

yeah i love my noid light,best thing ever! feckers wont pulse if you get the polarity wrong though so bear that in mind when testing the coil terminals with an LED... must be + to + and - to -
I'mma try some new things and I'll let you guys know something later.

[blackbob]

As it stands the coil is NOT putting out anything to the dizzy. So now I'm going to make sure my ignitor is sending that signal to the coil and make sure all the positives and negatives are correct. Well in regards to the ignitor anyway.

[blackbob]

Alright,
So after five hours of checking this and that here's the conclusion I've come to. This swap is the biggest mistake I've ever made automotively...:(. Ok,well,not so much mistake but more like the biggest mystery. I know my issue is something really really stupid and I mean STUPID. But I don't know what it is. I have comprssion,car turn over fast and strong,I have fuel and the ijectors are even pulsing. The last part of my delima is spark and I tell you this has never been a bigger more complicated mystery in my life. The ECU power issue has been sorted out and I have constent ECu memory with no issue. My key on check light comes on everytime all the time like it's surpose to. I even have an oil lamp and bat lamp too. So I've check the coil and even tried to direct connect from my pins 17 and 18 directly to where they're surpose to go on the ignitor. I have nothing and ontop of all that it appears that I have NO signal from my 17 and 18 pins. So whatever my ECU read as a crank signal I'm assuming it's not getting. Once whatever that is is taken care of I'm hoping it'll then initiate the sparking for startup. Then and only then I should have a running car,right ? Anyone else have any opinions,suggestions...

[Marksman]

Another one that's probably been tried but have you checked the error codes? We found a broken wire right next to a plug on Paff's V6 dizzy which killed the RPM signal to the ECU and prevented firing.

Good luck and don't worry in a couple of weeks this frustration will seem like distant history. 1st fire up is a great feeling of achievement.

All the best,

Owen.

[blackbob]

Found it,
Talked to a Toyota Master Tech buddy of mine,turns on the "unidentifiable" ECU (http://www.mr2.com/forums/autolink.php?id=50&script=showthread&forumid=74) I have isn't even the one I need. Hell it's not even from the same car or a car for that matter.

[biteme]

That's a bit of a step in the right direction then to say the least.

What ecu was it?

[blackbob]

That's a bit of a step in the right direction then to say the least.

What ecu was it?
Dunno

[biteme]

Part Numbers help too :)

[Paul Woods]

yep we all got EPC's at the ready...in fact lets make a game of it,first one to ID the ecu gets a tenner........








........off johnny

[snowtigger]

mk1 16 valver.

[Paul Woods]

tony wins! thing that gets me is whatever ecu it is has plugged into a v6 loom.... i say possibly 3vze 4runner ecu at a wild guess

[biteme]

Could it be something like a California ECU on the non-California wiring loom? I know the states have subtley different setups on stuff like that.

Essentially the same with some small differences. Might be enough to throw the CEL on?

[OlberJ]

Am going for the 2VZ-FE. Simply for the fact someone's gone, "Oh yeah V6 Camry ECU, i'll sell you that."

[Paul Woods]

i bet the CEL terminal is on pin A4 on all v6 ecus tone

[OlberJ]

I'm willing to put money on it now. £5 that it's a 2VZFE.

[blackbob]

I think it is...:(

[Paul Woods]

can we have the part number from it bob?