3VZ-FE will not start, electric problems!

[hot-chili]

Hello, I could need some help.

If I start my new 3VZ-FE there is only the starter moving, the engine do nothing.
I see, there is no "plugthunder" at the plugs, fuel comes.

Now I test all important electric cables...nothing wrong.

My special question is, what is about the Neutral Start Switch (NSW) at the engine ECU? Must I have this cable?

I have a Camry as M/T not A/T, but the black/white cable was installed at the Camry ECU and if I look into my cable plan, it comes from the Starter Relay and was switched by the Clutch Start Switch. I think if you not standing on the clutch, it is impossible to start the engine but why is starter turning???

Can I directly use 12V from another cable like Start (STA) and install it at the NSW port???

What must I do, if my Camry has A/T??

[GaryA]

Plugthunder I like that word :thumbsup: lol

[hot-chili]

Sorry I don´t know the correct word...in german it will be called "Zündfunken"!

Thanks for your help.

I understand not all about the NSW.

Must it have 12V if I turn the key in Start (ST1) postion or at Ignition (IG1)position or both??

Why can I not put it on the STA cable? At the Camry NSW and STA gets only power at starting key position.

And why did the Starter turn?? I think then it is only a joke to install it, because it not stop the engine.


............I get some light in the dark....

I think I found the problem, I install the starter at the MR2 system and the ECU not, now the starter can turn and ECU stop the ignition wihout the NSW cable!!!
Great, tomorrow I will test it!:driving:

[Paul Woods]

NSW will not stop the engine from starting,plugthunder? is that a spark you mean? (your word is much better by the way!)

Id check your ignitor casing is grounded to the chassis,otherwise no thunder or specifically lightning :) ..... run an earth cable to the ignitor casing and thunder should return :thumbsup: that is of course providing you have the rest of the elastic trickery wired up correctly

[hot-chili]

Yes all my plugs does not work!

I´am very shure that all ground points and groundings are correct. I test them all. I test the Ignitor cables all to like IGF, IGT, Coil- and IG-

My ignitor is using the original MR2 holder and is at the same position.

If the NSW not stop the ECU for what is it?? What did the ECU wiht the 12V signal?

It is possible that there are some differences between german and UK modell, I found some at the cablewire last time.

[Paul Woods]

its not the ignitor cables you need to test,its the casing its bolted to,that needs to be earthed or sparky no worky....

also have you tried pulling fault codes from the ecu? are you getting a check engine light when you switch the ignition on?

[Marksman]

"Zundfunken" needs to go in the TB dictionary.

The use of the word "spark" is hereby banned and anyone heard using it will be forced to buy the mods drinks at the Christmas party.

In fact as my surname is "Sparks" I think I will change my name to "Owen Zunderfunkens".

Cool, thankyou Mr. Chili :thumbsup:

OK you can all get back to fixing the electrical fault now.

Owen.

[Arkwright]

"Owen Zunderfunkens".

Oh help! :hidesbehi

[hot-chili]

Today I test all I can find.

I must have a problem with the air flow meter!
I test something and start the engine and he was runnig!! But I forgot to install the air flow meter terminal when I install it engine do nothing!
It runs only 2 seconds but this comes from the fuelcut.

Then I test the air flow meter, I have at VC input only 0,4V not 5V and at VS input I have only 0,3V and I must have around 4V the inside resistans (Ohm) is not 200-400ohm, it was only 2 ohm.

Now I must replace the air flow meter but it cost 850€ at Toyota....
Did anybody here have a second air flow meter for me???

[GaryA]

Sounds like a COR wiring problem with airflow meter cut out circuit but i'm sure Paul will come to the rescue :fingersx:

[hot-chili]

No, ist must be a direct problem with the AFM because inside the AFM all Volt and Ohm dates are wrong.

I think a damaged the AFM while color it...:confused:

[Paul Woods]

chili i thought we had no spark and that was why it wont run? can you confirm if you have a spark (plugthunder!! :) ) so we can help you?

if it ran for a short while then your COR holding circuit isnt complete,i doubt you need an AFM beause that wiring is all contained within the engine to ecu harness.

Two things for you to do.... earth the W/B wire on the AFM plug,and join the G/R wire on the AFM plug to the G/R wire on your COR :thumbsup:

[hot-chili]

Yes I had no spark but if I not install the AFM cable I have spark and engine runs for 2 seconds until the COR stop the fuel pump.
So it must be 100% a problem with the AFM!!!
I know that the GEN2 turbos do not run without or with a damaged AFM too.

Can I directly earth the G/R wire after the COR without AFM??
I think then must be the fuel pump running all time COR is working.

What must I do to use the engine without any AFM?
I see lot of V6 without AFM how is it possible??
Need I for this a new engine controll unit?

[Paul Woods]

^^ what he said :thumbsup:

also if you just ground the G/R wire coming from the COR it will run....although fo rthe sake of connecting it to the AFM so it works properly it would be wiser to do that

[hot-chili]

I´am 100% shure wiring is ok.

I phone with the chip tuning manager from Toyota F1 (old TTE) he is shure that my AFM is inside broken.

The problem is not the fuelcut, the problem is the VC input inside the AFM.
But before I open it, I will test with a second AFM.

I search now since 2 days for an used AFM but nobody could sell me one...:confused:

I try to find an Camry driver here who can give me for 5 minutes his AFM but it is not so easy to find somebody.

[GaryA]

Can you not measure the voltage at the VS wire this should tell you if it's broken - tried working the flap and seeing if it starts , my airflowmeter only gave a reading over halfway ,held it open and it fired up .

[hot-chili]

Hey, here my testing:

Pins 1-2 closed flap 1.000.000kOhms, open 0 Ohm; all correct.
Pins 5-6 closed 93Ohms = 0.09kOhms; little few.
Pins 5-6 open 70Ohms = 0.07kOhms; correct

Pins 4-5 4 Ohms = 0.004kOhms; dammaged
Pins 5-7 now we have 3c 4kOhms; correct.

I will first wait for the AFM I buy at ebay germany, if that is dameged too, I call you!

[hot-chili]

Engine is running!!!

I got yesterday the AFM and after install it, car was easily starting!
Great engine sound, I´ll be very pleased!

But I have some small problems.

1. The tach show me between 3800rpm cold engine and 1800rpm hot engine.
Now I don´t now if the tach isn´t correct or is there a problem with the engine.
Must I correct the tach for the rotation signal? I now only correct the speed signal.

2. The ACIS flap doesn´t work.

But I hope to be able to drive a little bit today.

[hot-chili]

And how can I calibrate the tach?
Now, if I drive 140km/h = 85 miles/h the tach shows 6000rpm!
I never read somthing about that I must calibrate it....

What I not understand here at the forum is a info that ACIS closed at 3900rpm but at my repair manual is standing if you give fast throttle up!???
What is correct?
I think a rpm controll like the 3S-GE has will be better. Why should the flap closed at 1000upm if I only give full throttle??

Here is a video of my first engine run:

http://www.mein-mr2.de/Bilder/V6-Motor/Videos/1%20Lauf.WMV

[GaryA]

Just watched ya video and had a look through your build photos , nice work ! Be interesting to see how it goes what with all the work you put in on the engine . Is it not out because the camry tach goes to 8 but the mr goes to 9 ?

[Garbe]

now we have 2 ways to recalibrate the tacho
1. use the board from the Camry tach
2. follow sengk's guide in his build thread

[OlberJ]

Look at that install!

Very very good work sir :clap:

[hot-chili]

Now all is fine and thanks for your comments.
But I must test the rpm tach next time again, my fuelcut comes very late at 7750rpm!!! Or is this normal?

I have still some trouble with the ACIS flap, it doesn´t work but all components are ok. I think there must be a problem with the ECU or the flap is only working if I drive.
Further I have some little shaking of the engine if I give only very low gas and have low rpm.

Today I will test the engine horsepower on the dyno stay tuned.