Brake Line Kit

[OlberJ]

Had to cut the rear's to get them off on the mk1V6 so gonna replace all 4 of them.

What are the best one's to get and where from?


Cheers,
Olie

[lodgeman]

try here mate!
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/New-Toyota-MR2-Mk1-AW11-Goodridge-Brake-Line-Kit_W0QQitemZ180176154189QQihZ008QQcategoryZ10428Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[superchargedsam]

olie might have a brand new set of black diamond or braided lines at home if you want me to look when i get back would be able to do them cheaper than the bay ones for ya, if I can find them of course.

[OlberJ]

Sam, that'd be ace if you got them.

Lodge, many thanks squire.

[superchargedsam]

wont be back till late friday so will have a look saturday AM as gotta sort some stuff out in the garage. If you drop me a PM to remind me friday night I will pick it up saturday morning and go look then for ya.

[millentubby]

does anyone know if that kit replaces ALL of the lines from the cylinder in the frunk to each caliper? or just the flexi bits near the calipers?

[superchargedsam]

just flexi near the calipers Colin, never seen a kit for a car that does all the hoses that way, all my bikes run them from the cyclinders to the calipers but would be tricky to do on a car for sure, not really needed from the cylinder as its using small bore solid wall copper so noisues there, less flexi pipe of any sort the better in a system unless your going microbore flexi all over but tjhats damned pricey still.

[millentubby]

Yeah I was just wanting to know what I was looking to buy - cheers Sam :)

I didn't really fancy having to run flexi all the way under the car to the rears!

I should really upgrade the hoses while I'm doing the rest...hmmm....maybe beginning of next month. Just saved a whole bunch of cash by deciding to port the V6 head myself (thanks to OlberJ!).

[OlberJ]

Don't blame me, i only suggested i'd give it a bash myself.

[OlberJ]

On my own heads that is, not MT's.

[millentubby]

Did some googling after out chat last night Olie and came up with this;

http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.aspx

Gonna do it.

[Jim-SR]

Did some googling after out chat last night Olie and came up with this;

http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.aspx

Gonna do it.

id be a bit careful with online guides though. there are always lots of experts, and head porting is about the blackest of the black arts when it comes to getting power out of engines

first off, id try not to touch the short side radius. fluid (e.g. air) doesnt like turning corners. the larger the radius on a corner, the shallower the corner is. and thus opening out the bowl area will improve flow. if you then tamper with the short side radius you tighten it back up again. by all means tidy up any casting flaws and smooth the area a bit, but i wouldnt remove any material unless you have means to test what youre doing or know what will make improvements there

the rest of the guide isnt awful. aside from them relying on flowbench data to backup their findings. flowbenches serve a purpose, but the figures themselves easily lie. interpretation of the numbers is where gains are found. improvements in flow on a flowbench are very different to improvements found on an engine, and things dont always work as they seem when youre using a 10in.H2O pressure drop on a flowbench, compared with many times that on a real engine

[millentubby]

Oooh that's all a bit further than I'm going to go Jim -

All I intend on doing is opening up the intake and exhaust ports to match the manifolds, polish the exhaust port and remove any obvious casting marks.

[Jim-SR]

you can get away with that easily enough. bear in mind though that the exhaust port will be coated in carbon within 5 seconds of the engine starting up though. so i wouldnt worry about polishing it. just finish the walls on the inlet and exhaust with an 80 grit flap wheel and tidy up the casting marks, as you suggest