Rear crossmember removal

[nads1978]

The bolt on the rear of the crossmember, trailing arm thingie that is pictured, should that hit straight out? I think the bush sleeve has rusted onto the bolt.
Failing that, to remove the rod-end on the hub, once the nut is off, should that hit out, is it tapered?

[nads1978]

And this one!

[nads1978]

Anyone? Help!

[Phaeton]

They are bitches to get out or at least mine was, I completely fucked up my crossmember getting mine out. You can removed the crossmember by undoing the 4 bolts 2 at each side. The bolts rust into the sleeve, they also don't turn as the big washer thing is slotted onto the bolt, to get my arm out I ended up getting the angry grinder onto it. Good luck & start searching for a replacement cross member.

[nads1978]

Doh! as I suspected.
On the other end of that suspension bar, the 'rod-end' type joint (part of hub assy), should that come undone with a knock, is it just a taper-lock affair?

[Phaeton]

Yep just like a tackrod end

[cdwood2010]

That looks like a twatty design. Its probably welded itself into the bush.

Maybe a fret saw if you can cut through the bolt, or soak it in WD40 and get a bigger hammer.

c.

[Phaeton]

I've been thinking about this whilst driving around Welsh Wales today & came up with the same conclusion Chris.

Looking at the parts sheet the Bolt, Camber Adjust 48190-32010 £8.20, then depending if it's Left or Right the Cam, Camber Adjust, Left 48190-32010 £12.69 or Right 48196-32040 £12.69 how the plate is more the the plate with a bolt god knows. But either way, doing it again I would cut the bolt, then either soak in plusgas/wd40 if the bush is still good or knock out & replace with a polybush. These prices are a bit out of date but gives you an idea, either way if you screw the subframe it's going to cost £50-£100 for a 2nd hand one.

[thomp1983]

Is the subframe removable as it is now? If so put the bolts in a press they will give.

If not is the bush a rubber bush with metal inner and outer? If it is and you can get a replacement burn it out, it's dirty and horrible but it will take 10 minutes to burn the rubber away, the heat will help unbond the sleeve and more importantly with the rubber removed the force you hit the bolt with will act on it instead of being absorbed by the mounting

[nads1978]

Got the cross-member off now thanks guys, I removed the rod-end joints on the other end of those rear bars. They are still in the cross member, but now it's on the work bench I'm not worried about it. I'll mostly be getting medieval on it with blowtorch, Sawzall and some blunt instruments!

Just managed to free the 1MZ, and it's on a trolley under the car, next job; gearbox removal, clutch/fly replacement, rocker gaskets etc etc!