2GR - low dyno again!

[Shara_Yakuza]

Continiued from here:
http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/sho...-help%21/page4

Scince the last posts here, i have upgraded the wiring. Now i have 3 MIL-type connectors, all terminals are soldered, and all other connections crimped & shrink-wrapped.

The old 1zz ecu is there only for the temp gauge and fans, i disconnected all other unused wires. A few pics:








The new ecu gives me the following list of DTCs:



The throttle works as it should - 100% all the time i press the pedal fully.

And today it dynoed low again:



What else should i look into?

Fuel pressure? - at WOT the AFR goes to about 12,6 in 5-6K rpm, injector pulse around 12 ms, system goes open loop from the moment i go WOT. and i get no "Lean" codes.

The ignition timing stays around 22 deg, is that normal? Knock correction is below 2 deg.

Maybe i shold get rid of the P0037 and P0057 - maybe then it will go full blast?

Any thoughts welcome.

[snowtigger]

have you driven it over 100 miles yet so the ecu learns and sets itself up?

most of the fault codes look like what we have in the uk builds I did get to cut two wires after getting the sensor 2 poo37 poo57 codes as most of the builds don't fit both pairs of sensors, and my car was exhibiting bad running because of burnt wires on the exhaust sensor.

I cleared all the codes after cutting the wires and reset the ecu and the engines been fine since, do you have a restrictive exhaust system or cat as with the standard manifolds on you should be seeing 275bhp and what pressure did you set the fuel pressure regulator too ?

[Shara_Yakuza]

I haven't driven that much yet, no.

That's all of my exhaust:



It's a MKIII, so i have an uprated fuel pump in the tank, and the stock FPR in the tank.
I tried to test the fuel pressure yesterday, but didn't have the parts to connect the hoses to the quick-release fuel fittings. Will try again.

The LTFTs are +18% on B1 and +8% on B2.
I have a small exhaust leak after the AFR sensor on B1, maybe it is screwing the LTFTs.

I'll look up the MAF readings today.

[Paul Woods]

I always get rid of the P0713, I read it was relevant so I make sure that one is cancelled out, a simple resistor does the trick. I always never run the in tank FPR, you have no way of knowing if that is doing its job, I would redo your fuel system and go external FPR, make sure the return line to the tank is at least 6mm ID, if you use the EVAP line for the return drill the fitting out on top of the tank or it will artificially raise pressure, and of course provide another EVAP point.

[Shara_Yakuza]

Paul, what resistor? Ommage/watt?

I tested the fuel pressure, 3.6-3.8 bar with engine stopped and at idle. stays the same if i rev it to redline.



Can somebody please check the following parameters at WOT:

MAF reading at 6000-6400rpm (mine is approx. 160gm/sec)
IGN advance at 6000-6400rpm (mine is approx. 22 deg.)



Does your ecu go open loop at WOT too?

[Paul Woods]

Probably unrelated but 12.9v from the battery? the charging system should be returning 13.5v-14.5v , I wonder if you have an alternator issue? I also wonder if that lack of voltage is affecting your pump and injectors.... I suppose it has to as they should be getting more power than 12.9v.

[gavsdavs]

The throttle works as it should - 100% all the time i press the pedal fully.

Since I data log things from the engine ECU - I've noticed that the "throttle position" sensor in mine never reaches 100%. It actually only gets to about 88%.
Is this adjustable ? (if so how) ?

Gavin

[Paul Woods]

That is normal Gav.

[gavsdavs]

That is normal Gav.

So I suspect the value I'm reading is the throttlepos at the ECU.
The lowest I've seen is 15%, the highest is 88%.

Is there any way to test the pedal actuator is actually producing the range of values one would expect.

I know you're saying that's normal - but I can't help but feel I'm missing 12% :(

Can anyone point to schematics of this ?

[Paul Woods]

You really aren't missing 12%, this is normal on all 2gr's , in fact normal on any DBW throttle. I have already tested the pedal assembly, I do that as part of every conversion and it is working correctly as Toyota intended, there are actually two sets of sensor inside those pedals, and they must agree with each other or the ECU will go into limp mode, it would be foolish to have the ECU in control of the throttle body based on the input from just one sensor that could fail at any time, so the double sensor arrangement means if there is a conflict between the two the ECU restricts throttle to around 25% from memory, might be less. Trust me Gav it's totally normal and working as it should be, your dyno torque figure totally backs this up. I think Toyota hold back on the remaining 12% for safety, but it won't translate to 12% more power or anything near it, i'd be amazed if it made any difference even if you could make it max out, I suspect the throttle is all but fully open anyway. I see this figure on every conversion, there is nothing wrong.