i also saw on the website that eibach do a correction kit for lowered suspension setups, would it be worth investing in this kit?
also i hear that if you get 4 wheel tracking done, and you need to adjust the rear tie bar, that it is more than likely seazed.
is this true?
Last edited by Jiff Lemon; 16-05-2007 at 15:04.
Merged your posts together :)
Yup, if your going to get 4Wheel tracking done its worth making sure EVERY component is free, greased and easily adjustable, that way your paying for adjustments, not for them to try to unsieze your suspension.
Correction kit sounds like a good idea too! got a link for that?
its all very well saying free it all up before you go, but the rear tie bars are pretty much always seized, and you simply cant free them up usually unless theyve been had apart and copper greased a few times since new. id recommend people free up everything that they can (front track rod ends, front strut bars, front camber bolts, rear camber bolts, rear tie bars), and then replace anything thats seized before even considering having tracking done. £150 is pretty cheap, my place charges £2-300 depending on what is being setup, but i dare say we work to more accuracy than 99% of road-car only places, most of the stuff we do is race and trackday cars
i will look for it, i cant remember where i saw it.Originally Posted by Jiff Lemon
here we go....
the website is www.motorsportworld.co.uk/
right, my koni suspension kit is on its way, and i also ordered a set of superflex bushes from fensport yesterday, i also wanted some of there trd top mounts, but they had sold out :sad:
went to toyota and they said that they wanted £70 each,:eekdoor:
no wonder the trd ones are a bargain at £40 each.
i will probably order some rear tie bars just in case,
what happens if they need to adjust camber?
dont they something to the way the suspension is sittind at the top?
where abouts are the camber adjustment bolts for the front and rear?
they are in the strut base , where the two bolts attach the hub to the strut.
standard camber adjustment is at the base, as said. youve got an ear that comes off the strut case with 2 bolt holes which attaches to the upright. leave the bottom bolt done up to begin with and just loosen off the top one, then the camber adjustment is a little round piece inside the bolt next to the ear which slots in with a notch on the side of it which you can tap with a hammer and punch to knock it round. the standard camber adjusters have sod all adjustment though, nowhere near enough to set it accurately. im going to make up some of my own before i adjust mine
to actually adjust your camber and measure it you ideally need a digital level which you can measure the camber of the wheel with, and then once youve got the wheel off to adjust the camber measure the camber again with the strut hanging down off of a flat surface, and then adjust it by however many degrees it needed adjusting by when the wheel was on and on the floor. then tighten it all back up, wheel back on, drop it, and measure again. and hope that its spot on, else youve got to take the wheel off again and start over lol
if you cant get the adjustment right with the bottom ear bolt done up you might have to crack it loose, but be warned this can throw things miles out as the bolt isnt an interference fit, it has a small amount of play. so once its undone the strut can move a fair amount (not really, but when youre talking in 0.1 degree incremements on camber adjustment its a lot!) and you wont be able to readjust the camber bolt until youve tightened the bottom bolt back up with the strut pushed the way it needs to go whilst tightening.
be warned that most wheel alignment places using laser adjustment rigs (and most who are using non-laser tbh!) wont want to take the laser units off and then set it all up again afterwards, so camber isnt something they will adjust particularly accurately. autodata says it needs to be within about 1 degree of the factory setting iirc so they will aim for that. you get what you pay for, since very few places charge less than £50-100 labour on such jobs as this, and doing the alignment on an MR2 is about a 2-3 hour job by the time youve set everything up, and that assumes you dont get any problems. it took me about 6 hours to do a mk1 SC last weekend. granted none of the bolts were freed up, but they had all been sprayed with plusgas a few days before. i took it out for a drive for 30 mins with the owner so we could see where it was at, brought it in and figured out where to go with the alignment, set the front toes really easily and then got the cambers to within 0.1 degrees of each other and where we wanted them. front castor was already good. then tried to set rear toes but the tie bars were seized solid so we couldnt, they were within a mm of each other, and about 1-2mm from ideal anyway, so it wasnt too bad. and rear cambers werent that easy to set as one of the camber adjusters wasnt working, i reckon something was probably slightly bent somewhere else meaning we couldnt get enough range from the camber bolt. then we went out for a drive afterwards to check that it all felt good. it cured a few vibrations and the car felt much more planted, i used a combination of TRD stage I settings and standard Toyota factory settings given its state of tune (fairly standard, but not quite). i could have done the job a bit quicker (probably 4 hours start to finish) since the owner was there with me and we were chatting whilst i was working, but its an involved job to get things deadly accurate (it takes 15 mins just to set the strings up around the car, it takes about the same time to setup the laser rigs)
also be warned that most alignment garages dont have a flat patch. they have a "reasonably flat and level" floor which could be quite a few degrees off in any plane. if you want it done properly find somewhere that has a proper flat patch concreted into the floor
finally, someone mentioned about top adjustable camber - you can get camber adjusting top mounts which allow you to move the strut position inwards or outwards on the top mount to give more inclination of the strut and thus more camber. this is a really stupid idea, since youre also changing all of the suspension geometry at the same time, which will screw your handling and grip up more than not having that extra degree of camber adjustment anyway lol. the only thing camber adjusting top mounts are good for is accurate castor adjustment if you spin them round 90 degrees ;)
cheers for the essay jim, good reading,there is a place near me which are quite sepecialised in suspension geometry,somewhere in micheldever.
i think the toe in on the rears are ok so i might not need to adjust them,
i think i have uprated sprngs on the car anyway, so some of thework has hopefully been done, the only reason i asked about the camber is that the tyres i have just changed had varied tread wear, my passenger rear was wearing on the outside,driver rear on the inside and even stevens on the fronts.
thaks for the help people:thumbsup:
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