just a quickie.
on my rover turbo i used a jar with pipes to bleed all 4 brakes after a track session.
i don't know if you guys can reach the DV hose pipe and take it off.
place one end of the hose on it and the end of the other pipe onto the bleed nipple.
this is negative vacuum ( sucking ) so don't rev it!!
turn the bleed nipple open and it sucks the life out of it!!
make sure you use a glass jar ( and keep the plastic seal thing in the lid )
this works really well on slave cylinders too.
^ thats a keen trick :)
......in the bluecorner , fighting out of japan....
The vacuum pump I bought I found not to be very good as it draws in air through the threads of the bleed nipple as Wombat mentioned.
Have now bled using my old one way valve bleeder the brake system to death. If I'm doing something wrong I'm not sure, but I have bled systems before without any troubles. Never changed as many components right enough.
Tested the servo and vacuum system from the engine using the vacuum tester and also checked to make sure I was getting an adequate vacuum from the engine which seems to be ok. The one way white valve at the servo also seems to be ok. The servo test of pumping with engine off and goes hard and then turn engine on and brake pedal drops works ok also.
Finally took the plunge and changed over the master cylinder to the original Mk1 unit and bled the system all over again. Still no joy and no different. Brake pedal still goes to floor with a little resistance.
The calipers all have fresh pads and the rears were rebuilt with new seals.
Not sure where to go with this one. If I have a prob with a caliper how can I test each in turn to sectionalise the fault down a bit?
Either that or I'm an idiot and can't bleed my system
Calipers are also on the right way round with bleed nipples at the top
It must still be air. Prob need to get a second person to hold the brake pedal down next to try that
Last edited by David Sleith; 11-05-2007 at 11:56.
have you tried clamping off each flexi hose individually and testing or are you using braided?
I'll give you a hand if you need Davie, gonna be about tomorrow as need to go collect the bolts that the Toyota monkeys managed to get mixed up.
Cheers mate. Got the wee guy this weekend so car on hold.Originally Posted by OlberJ
Using braided. Got my neighbour to sit in the car and pump the pedal while I opened and locked of the nipples. Made a slight improvement so think its just air although never had as much trouble with this on any other car before.The vacuum pump method was telling me I was getting loads of air through the bleed nipple threads so maybe thats the problem.
Still got the MK1 master cylinder on so think I will prob swap them back over and start over a again using the two man approach.
I did have a thought that maybe with Mk2 rears and st205 fronts the master cylinder couln't cope with the amount of fluid needed.
Are you sure it's not that with new pads and discs your getting a lot of movement in the caliper because they are not bedded in ? Or pressure bleed it or if you think it's in the calipers push the piston back as you open the nipple this should force the air out . Or try blocking the caliper with something that won't give that way you know if it is air or just spongy pads /discs that need driving .
Good idea. Will give that a go
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