Here is my attempt at an adjustable linkage
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Here is my attempt at an adjustable linkage
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adjustable?.. no cutting needed?.. like the sound of that :)
......in the bluecorner , fighting out of japan....
Nice one David, simple and straight forward; I like it!
http://www.target-earth.net (My cars & projects, video games, computers, etc)
1993 Porsche 911 Turbo : almost standard ;)
1974 Ford Escort mk1 : wide-arched + Vauxhall XE 16v on carbs
ex-owner of UK mk1.5 conversion #3 : white & black Eurosport kit, rev1 3SGTE, ct26a, gone but not forgotten :cry:
now theres a solution ive never seen before! nice one david,a nice bit of brain application there.
good stuff david..
let it be it known as 'The David Shifter Mod'..
we should have a "1.5 mod hall of fame" you know,this would definately be in....and podges intercooler! the plumley spoiler....the farmer bonnet mod...the symons led spoiler....the woods digi dash and or roof chop among other things....im sure everyone has made their own little piece of 1.5 history! Mr_ju's engine bay fan! theres another one! megatrons eurosport kit....Jb's lambda sensor relocation mod....adams twin speedo drive mod :lol: jokin mate!
contrary to popular fashions.. mine is long on both cables!.. i was just having a look.. the left-right movement one is some 60mm too long at the bell crank end!.. just flys past the connection point.?! if i did connect it.. part of the cable would be rubbing on the turbo, some imagery t'mrow. assuming ove got the right one on the right one :D
......in the bluecorner , fighting out of japan....
Mine was the same in the engine bay but its a different story when you try and change gear inside the car. Think the adjustment on the inner core is required as a result of the different mech change on the turbo box but the outer sleeve is too long from stick to box.
Its a bit of a head scratch. :?
well my cables stick out a bit in the engine bay, but after fidling they arent that bad.. the shifter cable linkage is pictured.. about 10mm forward to centre position of the stick.. what i'm going to do is 'turn' the rod end clevis up to that green line, and hacksaw the thread off a bit, i can then sit the clevis about 9mm further back than it is.. should be good for centre postion of the shifter mech.
the other side (the selector <left to right>) sits about 14mm past the eye on the bell crank (gearbox end).. so im going to cut the rod at the stick end, run a die down both ends (thread them).. and make a threaded tube to mate both end of the cut cable too.. extending the cable by 14mm.
i like the welded nut option, but my own garage has no elecy.. so conventional mod's!.
Last edited by adamh; 14-12-2009 at 19:26.
......in the bluecorner , fighting out of japan....
adam ive tried cutting a few threads off and allowing the adjustment to go right up to the shoulder but it still isnt enough to pull the stick back far enough to centre it,i found i still had to cut the base of the stick,bend it back and weld it up again....it only took a very slight bend though.
On the left right adjustment threading the bar is a good idea too.
Seems everyone has a slightly different solution to this,i like that.
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