I've seen your write up on some norweigian forum, a truly amazing amount of work you put in to that sucker!
I've seen your write up on some norweigian forum, a truly amazing amount of work you put in to that sucker!
Thanks for the positive feedbacks. The engine and el. swap was not the most dificult, but get the sw20 steering knuckle work with the aw11 steering...I used some time to make it work. This is a n\a engine with 156hp.
I used 2,5mm steelplate, cut them to make a new frame because I moved the engine 5cm longer towards the backtrunk. This because I wanted too use the mount for the gearbox that its on the sw20 crossmember.
The steel cut out, on one side..
A new steel frame welded too make a frame..
The new frame in place..( the bolts are not the one I use)
The wall from sw20 and cossmember in place..
Bloomin heck thats a hell of a lot of amazing work..... you truely are a swap god
fantastic work my friend..!!
totally original work that..great to see..welcome to the club..
thats amazing...really the amount of work thats gone into that is staggering.....we are not worthy of such grindmanship!
can i ask how you managed to sort the front hubs out? the sw20 has the steering arm on the front of the hub,not on the rear like a mk1? Also switching the hubs over left to right doesnt work either as it messes up the ackerman angles,how did you get around this? blown away by the workmanship here.
oh my god! <-- girly scream...
awesome!
and what timing :)
So yes, like Paul said. I am most interested now into how you got the front suspension sorted out. As you probably know I am building the V8 MR2 Toystar. I need to make the SW20 stuff work up front and would love to know how you did it.
I am also using the SW20 rear sub-frame in the rear to clear the transaxle.
Bill Strong
Racing Strong Motorsports
www.RacingStrong.com
1986 V8MR2 4.6 Liter | 2001 MR2 Spyder 2ZZ-GE Hardtop | 1991 MR2 GTV6 3.3 Liter
Like us on Facebook! https://www.facebook.com/RacingStrong
bill have you noticed the mk2 subframe isnt altered? so how do the rear hubs maintain the right camber angle given that the mk1 strut tops are an inch closer to the centre of the car each side than on a mk2?
ya, saw that. I was looking closely and noticed that the firewall for the trunk is actually a MK2 firewall. Two images are making my brain think. One shows a subframe that looks hand built, then another looks like it is a MK2 that has been grafted to the mk1 chassis. neat. But yes the stut angle does perplex me. The rear MK2 strut is at a 90 degree angle, or very close to it. The Mk1 is at a higher angle, mainly due to is being a FWD corolla part. Maybe when mounted to the MK 1 the angle is corrected.
At first I thought that maybe he even used the MK2 strut tower, but that one in the pictures is a MK1.
He has lowered the car, so the camber can be done via the hub itself by elonging the holes for the strut mount. This can also be done using camber plates on the strut tops. It is also easy to redrill the strut tops to get a better angle. I did this on the Toystar.
I'll probaby do this on the Toystar II. I really like this.
Bill Strong
Racing Strong Motorsports
www.RacingStrong.com
1986 V8MR2 4.6 Liter | 2001 MR2 Spyder 2ZZ-GE Hardtop | 1991 MR2 GTV6 3.3 Liter
Like us on Facebook! https://www.facebook.com/RacingStrong
did you install a roll cage as well? I see what look like chassis reinforcements coming from the front of the strut tower to the interior firewall.
Bill Strong
Racing Strong Motorsports
www.RacingStrong.com
1986 V8MR2 4.6 Liter | 2001 MR2 Spyder 2ZZ-GE Hardtop | 1991 MR2 GTV6 3.3 Liter
Like us on Facebook! https://www.facebook.com/RacingStrong