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Thread: 3vz-fe turbo conversion

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  1. #1

    3vz-fe turbo conversion

    Well as promised a very long time ago, here is my thread on my 3VZ-FE turbo conversion. This is just a brief introduction and I will load more pictures and some sentences that explain the madness.
    So a quick run down. I am running a garret hybrid T3/4 turbo( can't remember the A.R at the moment) mounted over the gearbox and is complimented by a lot of custom bits. From the mount itself to the 2-1 exhaust then the outlet exhaust, all AN10 stainless braided oil lines with a cooler and HKS hybrid magnetic oil filter and relocation kit. Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, AN6 stainless braided fuel lines from the tank back, with a Supra fuel pump and injectors.Management wise, I'm using all Apexi piggybacks. SAFC 2, for fueling, AVCR for the boost, RSM for show as I have a G force sensor with it. Plus the shift light function triggers a relay for my exhaust by pass valve. Apexi turbo timer, Innovate wideband with the air fuel ratio gauge, various gauges including charge temperature, boost etc... here are a couple of pictures of where I'm up to at the moment. I'll update more tomorrow evening. just wanted to see what people thin












    Well I hope that entertains someone for now. Please keep an eye out for this build. My aim is 320 BHP to start and I know I could do that with a 2gr or even a 4 pot 3sgte. But I want to be different and I like building my car not buying it.

  2. #2

  3. #3
    Ok, came back andhad another look at those pics...

    1) I know its already fitted, but why didnt you source another front manifold for your build?

    2) does your exhaust hook up to the back box?

    3) did you consider making the pipe on the back of the turbo, a larger diameter to make the pressure differance front to back of the impeller greater? As that does make a differance
    of course I dont care, your a muppet!!!

  4. #4
    Hi mate. I was going to make headers but really didn’t see the gains in it for the cost and time. As for the rear header I did look for a front but couldn't find any in the UK. No mass loss really as I’m not going for a insane BHP build. Just something different.
    The exhaust bolts up direct to the back box itself. After the cat (if one were fitted)if that makes sense. I just need to finish it off. As I made a bypass valve to cut out the back box and go directly to its own seperate tail pipes. Its mostly done and just needs fitting. Plus I’m waiting on the tail pipes to be delivered as I had to find a pair of remus pipes to match mine exactly.
    Lastly I was going to run 3” pipe from the turbo back but space constraints held me to a 2.5” pipe. So its 2” from header to the 2-1 merge then 2.5” in. Not race car spec but it works and performs.
    Cheers for the interest in it though. I should get my thread up tonight when the lil man is a sleep

  5. #5
    Looks good, will need to have another look a that later
    of course I dont care, your a muppet!!!

  6. #6

    Here we go sorry its all at once

    Right as promised a small write up on my V6 turbo conversion.
    I did have this in mind when I first started the V6 conversion 18 months ago but as things get I the way I had to settle for just a na v6 for 12 months. So after 6 months of sourcing more or less everything I need here's my build.
    I started with this

    Pulled the whole rear end out, as it was easier to mock up the exhaust route and I wanted to rebuild the bottom end. This was the only thing I didn't do when I did the original conversion. Mainly because the engine had only done 81,000 miles.

    Even after 12 months of being driven daily the poor thing looks knackered, but on to a new lease on life for this beast.
    The first thing was to fabricate a mount to hold the turbo over the gearbox but still allowed space for the exhaust to and from it. Although the piping was to be heat wrapped as well as a heat jacket for the turbo.



    A lot of the fabrication work I had to do away from the car as I don't have a TIG welder at home and I really wanted to stay away from just MIG welding everything. Only because I think it looks neater.
    On to the oil return from the turbo. Nice and easy as I just bought a WELD ON AN-10 male fitting. filled the sump up so I could see where the oil level is then just drilled a hole above and welded the fitting on.



    Then a quick paint and how it looks with the return line fitted. Never used these AN fittings before. So took a while to get to grips with the art of doing them. Well a pair of Aluminium vice jaws and a set of aluminium spanners did help.

    On to inspecting the crank and changing the big end shells for good measure

    Unfortunately as you can see in the picture I managed to snap a con rod cap bolt. Not ideal in the least. Managed to get one from Toyota. The part number is the same as a 3s engine I do have it somewhere if anyone ever needs it. After a lot of swearing and Arse seeing I calmed done and realised it was only a interface fit bolt and not a stud. So a drift and a good smack knocked it out in one hit. Then it was just a case of pushing the new bolt in and using a bit of thin wall pipe and a nut to pull the bolt all the way through.
    Next was to fabricate the exhausts from the headers to the turbo. I was quoted £500 for this to be done at a professional exhaust shop. But stuff that I think the sections, flexi's and flanges came in around £140 including the 2-1 merge. All 1.5mm wall 304 stainless.


    Quick basic leak test

    2-1 merge pipe is 2.5" to the turbo with a v clamp and I just bought a pre fabricated adapter for the turbo inlet as it worked out cheaper.

    then on to the turbo exit pipe

    This is done again using 1.5mm wall 304 stainless 2.5" dia and I think the cost was around the £100 mark. Then my mate turned round and told me he can get hold of 2.5" pipe for a five finger discount. So I got a deal £50 for 2 meter lengths and 4 90' elbows. To be used later on.

    I routed the exit pipe behind the rear bank downpipe and back out almost in the same place as stock. I just had to install a flexi and a lobster back 75' bend. I will load a picture when I fit it. Same V clamp join. It goes into by by pass valve that I made using a twin throttle design. so when closed the gases flow through the back box and after 5000 rpm my Apexi RSM triggers a rely to a linear solenoid and closes the back box route and opens the straight pipe route. Probably makes no power difference but will sound nice. I set it at 5k purely so I don't annoy anyone when driving under normal conditions.


    Please ignore the welds as I am going to redo it. Think I burned through more than I had neat runs.
    Plus when I left it to cool one of the lads in work TIG'd a cock on it

    Custom bracket for the throttle cable as I had to change the route of it. I may end up getting a different unit. But I'll see how it goes for now.


    Had to make a heat shield for the slave cylinder and Dizzy

    forgot to take a picture of the dizzy one
    Then quickly hide the big lump in work from my manager


    I'm using a OEM intercooler and shroud to get it running then will probably swap it to a Greddy style one if it wont cool the charge air temp. I've fitted a gauge that measures the in and out temps of the cooler so I'll find out that way.

    just had to make a few brackets from 25mm 304 flat bar to hold it slightly higher than it would sit. Also the I have installed a 8" push fan inside the shroud to make clearance room for the alternator. Its tight but can be removed with the engine in place. But as a precaution the alternator has been fully refurbished.
    Next was to drop the tank and swap the pump for a Supra one. This is not as hard as people think. awkward on your own and on stands but didn't take more than a hour. Easier with the engine out. Also gave me chance to remove the U/S aircon pipes.
    Old na pump next to the supra one

    Then back in the hole it goes

    A quick picture of where my tea has been going

    Answers to the name Lincoln(shire sausage dog)
    I couldn't resist building this too

    I'll leave the thread here for today and carry on my post later. Hopefully with beer in hand....

  7. #7
    You sir are a very very bad man.......

    Thats looking like a very easy upgrade, in the home builder catagory.....how dare you!(though i would have added baffles to the sump, while it was off)

    Ive already started looking at turbos....knowing that is easy enough to build, got mates that would love to have a play with that.....and see if we can get a safe boosted tune. Your oil feed line, where did you pick that up? As thats about the only thing i have yet to steal....lol
    of course I dont care, your a muppet!!!

  8. #8
    Why yes I am. Or so the other half thinks. And she doesn’t know how much I’ve spent to get this far hahaha.
    It is fairly easy or has been so far but I have been buying parts and planing it on the fly for 6 months now. Had to make a few changes along the way. But its getting there. I did baffle the sump

    Done it using some carbon steel plate and piano hinge. Just over lapped the hinge so the flap or door only opens towards the pick up pipe. Helps keep the oil next to it and not up by the gearbox.
    Im only going to boost 7psi until Its all settled.
    The oil feed line came in a kit I bought. Its a hard plastic pupe with S/S over braid. With the fittings swaged on. I just plumbed it in to one of the ports on my oil filter relocation kit.

  9. #9
    Unless your doing injectors, 7psi is probably safe.....

    After thinking about it, the filter relocation kit, was the obvious point for a turbo oil feed. Did a make a differance to oil pressure elsewhere?
    of course I dont care, your a muppet!!!

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by sketchy View Post
    Unless your doing injectors, 7psi is probably safe.....

    After thinking about it, the filter relocation kit, was the obvious point for a turbo oil feed. Did a make a differance to oil pressure elsewhere?
    I’ve already fitted a set of 440cc 7mgte injectors. Im only going low boost to start without blowing it up lol. Oil pressure should be the same it just takes alot more oil to fill because of the cooler and extra lines

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