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thread: MK 1.5 build plan. Please help!

  1. #1

    Jan 2018
    Texas
    7

    MK 1.5 build plan. Please help!

    I have an 85 mr2 that I have been looking at doing a 3sgte swap. I want to do this without being a crazy expensive build. Hopefully do it at home for about 5000 maybe 6000. I would like a 4th gen 3sgte with an s54 transmission. I would like it pretty much at stock power levels. Here is the plan.


    Engine: 1000
    Transmission: 800
    Prime performance kit level 2: 2000
    Prime performance mounts: 700
    shifter relocation kit: 300
    2nd gen NA axles: 200?
    shift cables/Alternator bracket/throttle cable: 250?
    unexpected random shit: 500

    All this comes in below 6k but could easily get to 6 thousand. Is this realistic? My biggest concern is how doable is this swap these days with the "kits" that are available? Do the prime performance mounts need to be welded in? I tried looking into this and I found one youtube video and one post on mr2oc that implies it will just bolt in. I am super excited and looking for some honest input from the people that have gone through the journey I am starting.


    After thought - I can also sell the 4age I pull out to help with some of the costs.

  2. #2

    Feb 2015
    Denver
    2
    That sounds reasonable, but other costs often tend to sneak in the budget. Costs like wiring harness which runs around $700 if I recall correctly. Also may as well do the clutch while everything is apart. Miscellaneous engine service items also add up... Figure a contingency budget of $1,200.

    I'm part way thru my swap. I'm welding in the mounts and opting for the E153 trans and getting the engine built up while I'm there. I don't know what the costs are stacking up to, but I'll likely be looking at $8,000 or so as I'm trying to prep this to handle track time.

  3. #3

    Jan 2018
    Texas
    7
    clutch, light flywheel, wire harness are all included in the kit cost.

  4. #4
    Woodsport Paul Woods's Avatar
    Mar 2005
    Durham, UK birthplace of the 1.5,v6 and v8 Mr2
    14,617
    If you can weld you can slash a lot of cost off there, forgive me but $2700 with Prime, that seems like an awful lot, what exactly do you get for that?

    A homebuild 1.5 shouldn't be costing anywhere near this sort of money, more like $3000-$3500 all done.

    TB Quote of the month:"I split my ear open whilst masturbating" - Jasper Full story Here

  5. #5

    Jan 2018
    Texas
    7
    Unfortunately I can't weld. I know it would cut costs a bit but I am willing to spend a bit more to make this as easy as possible and get it done as quickly as possible. Considering ATS starts swaps at 9k and most other shops arent too far from that either I am willing to settle around 5-6k. I may go with the level 1 and by a stock replacement clutch and resurface the flywheel which would save about 600. Here is the link: https://primedriven.com/collections/...y-swap-package

  6. #6

    Jan 2018
    Texas
    7
    Can anyone confirm that the prime mounts bolt in? I emailed them but they didnt directly say yes...

  7. #7
    LawrenceSelly's Avatar
    Apr 2016
    Shropshire
    194
    Can anyone confirm that the prime mounts bolt in? I emailed them but they didnt directly say yes...
    I will confirm (as I know someone with some) that just like my Hux racing mounts they do "bolt in"

    HOWEVER

    They do not take into account the power level you may be pushing OR the age (read: rust percentage) of your car.

    The front torque mount especially, tends to crack the cross beam that it bolts to; on just this information alone I would recommend hiring someone to weld some 3mm plate onto this area. (Either onto the beam surface, or cutting a slot into the beam, and some holes, and welding through to it on the inside. )

    It's really hard to fix once its happened as it could bend the cross beam if not found quickly, and put stress on the other mounts within the bay, causing them to crack too.

    That's the only problem with bolt in mounts! Sure they fit, but that 80s chassis was not meant to cope with the power your putting into it.
    Happens all the time in the euro scene too, people bolting in R32 engines, and 2.0 turbo's into MK1/2 VW Golfs. Then wondering why the engine fell out when they hit 400 bhp

  8. #8
    Woodsport Paul Woods's Avatar
    Mar 2005
    Durham, UK birthplace of the 1.5,v6 and v8 Mr2
    14,617
    ^^^ this is the reason I still weld in mounts to this day, it's the proper way to do it.

    TB Quote of the month:"I split my ear open whilst masturbating" - Jasper Full story Here

  9. #9

    Jan 2018
    Texas
    7
    Good to know. Ill probavly skip the light flywheel and save some money there and put into welding mounts/reinforce. I have no intentions of pushing this thing further than 250 to the wheels. It is light enough that it doesnt need that much. 0-60mph in 4-4.5 will make me very happy and allow me to move on to other parts of the build. Thank you for the responses. Looks like the 4age will start getting pulled this weekend.

  10. #10

    Jan 2018
    Texas
    7
    ***Update***

    This will be a slow build process but it is started. I have the 4AGE out and gone. I found a 2nd gen motor from an st185 and for the price decided to go that route. The mounts should work fine still but decided to go with a turbo transmission for the durability. I am currently getting the motor pulled apart so I can clean it all up. What would you consider worth replacing at this stage? Should I go ahead and do rings and pistons since they are probably old?

    The plan-
    All new seals/gaskets
    water pump
    timing belt and accessories
    head gasket (stock)
    skip arp studs


    Does anyone have any good ideas for a complete kit? I found this but I am afraid of the quality due to the price. Correct me if I am wrong but a stock motor should hold up to 250 whp fine I just want to eliminate any potential problems of an old engine while it is out. https://www.yotashop.com/toyota-celi...ild-kit-ek924/

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