Oh and remember to lock the backlash gears before removing your cams.
Oh and remember to lock the backlash gears before removing your cams.
Thanks for the tips, i will give some thinners a go. I have decided that im not going to rebuild the engine just yet so the cams will be staying in for now, i will bear it in mind for later when i do rebuild.
Got the sandblaster working again for brackets and such. thinking of gettign some soda now for the cam covers.
First cam cover cleaned up a bit more and coated but it came out rather poor.
I realised after that this was probably due to a bad earth
Luckily it is the LH cover so isnt seen.
I also decided that im going to find a better way of cleaning so will probably be ordering some soda.
In the mean time i got the sump off and straightened as it appeard to have been bashed at some point, it could easily have been whilst i was removing the engine.
Then it want through the sandblasted and got powdercoated in shiny black which was a much better result.
Followed by a few more parts.
As i have a habit of not cleaning out the powdercoating booth between different colours i now have a very well mixed tub with different colours and additives so though i would see how it came out.
Well its certainly an interesting colour as most defiantly unique as i have no idea what went into it, i like it.
Liking the speccledey red !
My advice would be to strip the heads down, on every 1mz I've ever had the valve stem oil seals were shot and at least 2 or 3 valves weeping on each head, a days work lapping valves in and replacing seals with genuine Toyota items will pay you back tenfold in future.
Thanks for info. I was hoping to get it in and running before doing a full rebuild later. I am currently trying to borrow a leak down tester which will confirm valves. I followed the RX all the way home and didn't notice any smoke so I'm hoping I will get away with it for a few months or so till I can recoup savings for the full rebuild.Originally Posted by Paul Woods
If I find anything that's not right then I will definitely have the heads off before it goes in.
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It's a catch 22 though, you can't find the problems unless you strip it down, I've yet to rebuild a 1mz (into the hundreds of them now) that did not need valve stem oil seals so I would say it's a certainty on these older engines.
Hmm i might rebuild the heads. I wasnt questioning your experience with these engines i just really want to get it in and running before i start fiddling, partly because it ran so well all the way home.
You could just put it in for now and run it, but removing/refitting the heads in situ is a pig of a job, unless you plan to drop the whole motor out at some point and rebuild it entirely, it's twice the amount of work though.
The one i am currently doing for a customer (customer supplied engine) had a partially dislodged valve collet, which would have almost certainly caused a dropped valve in the very near future had we not caught it in time, that would have wiped his engine out. His engine came from his own personal daily driver RX300 too with no apparent issues.
On every 1mz i take apart i turn the heads upside down, fill the combustion chambers with solvent (panel wipe is good) and insert a blowy airline into the back of each valve and give it a blast, that way you can visually check for air bubbles coming past each valve. On average i find 60%-80% of the valves are not sealing 100%, that's lost power, but i relap in every valve on every engine anyway just to be sure.
If time is a factor for you and you don't mind redoing the install at some point then just chucking it in is fine, all depends what you want from it really.
I was planning on dropping it back out later to do the rebuild so I can do a full rebuild and clean up everything. Dropping the standard engine usually only takes me a day or so on my own. I have a pit so it speeds things up a bit.
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