Not related to your current issue but will be an issue when you get it to fire, on the end of your intake manifold (2nd pic) there's supposed to be a wiring connector on the bottom left nut, you've probably bolted it to the plastic cover under the inlet manifold if you don't correct it you'll end up with an engine that runs then quickly cuts out
Single wire black connector? Thought that was a chassis ground, thanks Thomp.Originally Posted by thomp1983
No from memory it has either brown or brown/white wires attached to it there's 3 or 4 of them
Um, ok doesnt sound ideal. The engine will fire at 10 degrees BTDC, so i would expect that at TDC the rotor arm was pointed at exactly where the electrode for plug #1 is on the dizzy cap. Check the dizzy bolts, there are two 12mm (i think) that hold it in place, make sure it isnt bolted on the wrong hole(s), that would give you 90 degrees difference.
The earth wires Thomp is on about should be bolted to a 12mm nut on the bottom corner of the ACIS (on the end of the plenum). People love to bolt them to the cam cover, which of course is isolated from ground by a rubber gasket!
That single black wire is one of the grounds between block / head / gearbox / chassis etc. Like i said, run a continuity test to make sure everything is earthed to everything.
c.
Unless you address the check engine light issue first everything else is just white noise.Another possible issue: No check engine light. Could just be a bad bulb/wiring but possibly bad ECU or AFM right? How would I go about testing the ECU if I don't have one handy? Same with the AFM,
Locate pin 5 on your 22 pin grey ECU plug, should be a green/white wire, ground it and switch ignition on, your CEL should come on.
If it does not then you have a failed bulb in the dash or wire break, inspect/repair until the CEL works with the grounded pin 5.
Check pin 4 of your V6 ECU 22 pin plug goes to pin 5 on the Mr2 plug, loads of people get that wrong.
If pin 4 is connected to pin 5 and the CEL still doesn't work then your ECU either isn't powering up (no batt or ignition feed perhaps) or your grounds are missing for the ECU. It only needs power and ground to work, so one of those will be missing, go back over my original wiring guide and check your power feeds. Check the ECU grounds are bolted to the ACIS chamber stud and not the rear cam cover.
If you establish the ECU has power, it has its grounds and the CEL is not lit, you could have a bad AFM, I have known a bad one cause the CEL to stay off.
Ignore everything else until you sort that CEL issue and get your ECU powered up.
UPDATE: IT RUNS :D... but cuts out :(
I figured out my timing issue, it wasn`t a distributor problem. My cams weren`t clocked properly so I aligned my cams to the wrong notch on the cam gears. It looked right but it was 90 out. D`OH. In my defense the BGB is kinda vague about it
On to my next issue, it wont stay running for more than a few seconds.. I did move those 4 earth wires to the intake, but its still no bueno. Should I move the other 4 wire grounds off the valve cover too?
Grounded pin 5 on the 4th ecu plug, check engine light comes on with ignition. So I can assume the ECU is getting power?
Pin 4 on which connector, the 4th ecu plug? That one is unused... could you elaborate?
Could bad AFM cause it to cut out after a few seconds?
Ground the W/b wire on the afm and report back if it runs full time.
Still no change with W/B grounded to the chassis at the AFM. I sorted the check engine light issue though, pin 4 goes to the mr2 harness not pin 5 like I had it.
Was the car previously a turbo or NA model?
Sorry just read it was NA, take air filter off , switch ignition on and manually open the afm flap with your hand.
Can you hear the fuel pump kick in and run when you do the above?
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