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Thread: coolant hoses keep popping off

  1. #21
    it's been fine for almost four years, then one day a hose popped off behind the firewall. I just put it down to a clip working loose. then a few months later the rad started leaking, swapped that and all was good for a couple of months and then a hose popped off next to the filler cap, which I thought was odd. popped it back on nice and tight and then a while went by until last week, when it started popping the hose off that goes into the thermostat housing. that one has come off four times now. haven't checked compression, have no idea how to check leak down? but I do almost have one coilover on lol

  2. #22
    Am far from expert here. Please forgive me if this sounds naive. No-one seems to have mentioned the water pump yet.

    Assuming there is no obstruction to the flow of water around the system and through the rad when warm, have you confirmed that the water pump is actually pumping water?

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #23
    I did think water pump, then I looked at how much of a pain in the arse it is to change so buried that idea in the sand lol

    I managed a couple of 20 mile trips today without any issues, but hate the nervous drive!

    How can I check the pump is doing its job?

  4. #24
    The water pump is driven by the timing belt, you would probably have other indications if it wasn't working correctly.

    If you remove the filler cap and rev the engine, the water level should pull down. Although given your issues, you might just get really wet.


  5. #25
    Do you have a flange on the outlet the pipe is on? I had some pipes running front to back on the buggy & they would come off until it put a flange on there.

    Sent from my SM-T330 using Tapatalk

  6. #26
    Russ has had various pipes pop off, not just one. It's a puzzler.

  7. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by russthedude View Post
    haven't checked compression, have no idea how to check leak down?
    Probably needs to be done by a garage, or well kitted out friend.

    Compression test will show psi when the engine is cranking. If there's a leak (compression into water for example) it should show up.

    Leak down test is where you pressurise a cylinder then see if it holds or leaks out.

    Between these two tests you should be able to establish if any cylinders are adding to the water pressure ) hose pop off issue.


  8. #28
    so I made it to work without giving anyone a steam bath on the way in. But when I was parking noticed the rad fan was on, which I've never ever heard kick in before, so at least I know that works! I took the coolant cap off this morning before I left to see what happened, if I gave the revs a blip the coolant foamed up a bit and then got sucked down as the revs dropped.

    I'll start enquiring about a compression test at my local garage. I'm guess low compression or a leak = something along the lines of head gasket failure or other big bills?

    second rear coilover is one at least, and while I was outside last night a chap stopped by to have a chat with my car, he recognized the plate from the woodsport site, his old man is toying with the idea of a 2zz or V6. as soon as I fired it up to let him hear it he looked like he was about to go and tell his old man to take a trip up to durham for a V6 :D

  9. #29
    At least get the compression test done and that way you'll know how serious it is.

    You gotta love the V6 the sound is absolutely breathtaking.

    “Where I'm going is not nearly as important as what I'm driving to get there.”
    ― Jay Leno

  10. #30
    took the rad for a leak test, it had four of them so he's fixed it up using some glue form nasa or something. He reckons that I need to ditch the crappy eBay rad I've got on there and get the Koyo back on and see if that sorts the issue out. I'm not sure how long the repair will last so he said I should start looking out for another big rad sooner rather than later.

    maybe, just maybe, the first hose to pop off was because coolant had slowly leaked and air found its way in, and the subsequent hose problem caused by the piddly little OEM rad?

    so.... any tips for a replacement radiator which isn't going to break the bank if possible? or des everyone pay the £300+ for the Koyos?

    Really appreciate the pointers by the way, thank you! I'll still get a compression test done too asap.

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