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Thread: 1mzfe sw20 new project, may need help here! Pics!

  1. #1

    1mzfe sw20 new project, may need help here! Pics!

    So decided to pick up a pre swapped sw20 with a 97 camry 1mzfe w/s54
    from the little bit I got to drive it it was loads of fun, love the torque!
    clutch is down at the moment waiting on some funds for a new clutch masters.
    I also believe the maf is acting up as it got a little bucky under load
    I originally planned on making this a california smog legal swap but I think doing that is a little over my head and budget right now. So may look into just doing a budget turbo and see how much abuse it'll take before it pops and I go 2gr... Anyways I'll attach some pics and ask some questions to see if I could get some help. Alot of this wiring worries me but it seems to run fine and everything but the tach works so I'll leave it be until I have the time to trace everything back.





    Sketchy looking mount here





    Fuse box is a lil wild, not sure quite what's going on here




    Okay so here we have some open connectors and some other stuff I don't now much about, PLEASE FEEL FREE TO GIVE ME INFO ON THESE NEXT FEW PICS, THANKS



  2. #2
    Id strip that loom out and redo it, it's a fire hazard waiting to happen.

    Those 2 taped up fuses do not need to be there, thry are a massive bodge instead of just stripping some more of the loom casing open and removing them.

    Alot of the spare plugs you have are normal you can remove them but personally i wouldn't remove anything until you go through it all and fix the obvious ussues

  3. #3
    Would you have any idea what the larger gauge white wires with fuses taped in were for on the camry? Also where can I find a easy to read diagram for redoing the loom?

  4. #4
    The large white wires are the main power feed for the alternator. Iirc on an mr2 you just need one wire to run from the alternator to the fuse box in the engine bay.

    http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v2...a%20V6/Wiring/

    Those wiring diagrams may help, also email chris woods for the 3vz wiring diagram, there isn't a specific 1mz one paul chose not to make one as someone tried to screw him over from the 3vz one. The 3vz one will help you understand what wires in the mr2 loom have been cut into it also discusses the white wire.

    If the car runs properly then apart from removing those fuses the rest of the loom should just need all the parts where wires have been joined redoing with proper soldered joints that are all ran and bound neatly

  5. #5
    Are you currently 1mz swapped? Do you have a picture of your loom in the bay?
    thank you for the information thus far, I realy appreciate it. The car seems to run fine besides the clutch slipping under any harsh throttle. Also Im having charging problems so I need to test the alt maybe could have to do with the white wires!? I'll find out soon I supose. I work 52 hours a week and have a 7 month old daughter so time is a lil scarce but I'll get to it soon. While I'm at it I guess I'll ask what you would reccomend for a clutch kit.

  6. #6
    I found a good diagram in here for what I believe to be the 3vfe
    all seems pretty good and spot on despite a few things I find differently. Research research and more research for me. Although I've been reading up on this swap for over 3 years, now that it's in front of me I'm excited but also realizing how much more there is to learn.

  7. #7
    It's not easy deciding where to start with that lot. Pm cdwood2010 and aak for the latest 3vz wiring guide, the one you found is probably old.

    I think id start with the taped up fuses, if you strip back all the black tape and plastic conduit and heat shrink you will eventually find all those thick white wites join together remove them all except one. Im certain that one wire needs to go from the b+ in the fusebox (the terminal with the nut that the black wire with yellow fuse holder is currently attached to) to the single terminal on the alternator (check this in the 3vz wiring diagram i haven't read it in a while but im sure im right)

    Id then trace that black wire with the fuse holder identify it then decide if it needs that fuse or not. After that go around every joint in the wiring where you can see it's been modified and redo it properly and neatly with solder and the correct size heatshrink and try and identify each connection and why it's there at the same time.

    With that completed things should look alot neater, personally id then open a text file on my laptop and make a note of each of those spare connectors, id list there current location, how many pins and what the wire colour going to each pin no. is. Id then cut the connectors off (leave enough wire on them so they can be reattached in the future if you had too) and heatshrink over the ends to isolate them all.

    With all that done id get some self amalgamating tape and wrap the loom again which will leave you with a professional looking job.

    Remember to check the car works properly after doing eeaceach stage of the changes so your not left chasing your tail at the end.

  8. #8
    Sounds like a plan. I'll probaly wait until my "vacation" days come up from work.
    I'll pm cdwood about the guide. Also wondering if there is a performance difference in having all the egr and evap system hooked up or blocked off?

  9. #9
    There's a small performance gain, the biggest gain is from a maintenance point of view not having all the crap the engine produces fed back into the inlet stops the internals getting gunked up

  10. #10
    Guide sent, but don't forget there are some subtle (and some not so subtle) differences between the engines.

    C.

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