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Thread: Automatic Transmissions. !!#$%*&$%!!!

  1. #41
    When it comes down to the basics of where to put a switch in a circuit there is no significant reason to put a switch in any particular point of the circuit.

    Conventional wisdom says if I flip a switch I am turning off the power to the device. So if there is any possibility of someone else working on the circuit it is best to put the switch as close to source power as possible.

    Turning off a circuit once something goes wrong is done by a fuse or circuit breaker. Generally the only potential damage that a person could prevent with turning off the switch is personal injury caused during diagnosis/repair. A persons reaction time would be too slow to prevent most electrical/mechanical damage that would occur during a failure and not something to be relied upon.

    In several industries, automotive included, ground side switching has been used in most circuits. This is a decision made by financing. Until recently the cost of an NPN transistor(low side driver) was a good deal cheaper then a PNP transistor(high side driver). Using low side drivers made the cost of producing control modules a good deal cheaper and so everybody did it.

    Recently though the cost of high side drivers have been coming down. This has lead many manufactures to start using high side drivers on high current draw circuits such as HID headlights, ABS, fuel pump, electronic power steering, and others. With high side drivers the load is directly connected to the control module instead of an output to a relay that then switches the load. This allows a diagnostic current to run during initial startup and whenever the device is turned off.

    Low side drivers are still very common and can be seen side by side, in the same module, as they are still cheaper to produce.



    Now of course this wouldn't be the first time I have been wrong and if someone has some sound reasoning to switch the ground side I would like to hear it.

  2. #42
    Well, That's a lovely first post sir. With your location being "Around the Corner", I suspect that you might be able to come over here and wire this thing up for me, no problem yeah?
    I've even got a giant pile of beers and Pizza if that's what it takes.

    As far as damage is concerned, I don't give a rats ass about the speed at which I hit the "Oh shit, it's on fire" switch. I'm not trying to protect anything but my ass and maybe the car body itself, more importantly just the fuel tank. Wires and components? Eh- don't care. I mean really, when I test drove the car, I took a razor knife and a hammer. That way if (as we say in the states- "if some shit jumps off") meaning if it catches fire or blows up completely, even with some minor bleeding & hearing loss as long as I can reach the hammer- I am getting out of the car and crawling to safety.
    The reality of electricity and electronic components is such that if a circuit wants a specific voltage at a specific time and you have no clue what you're doing, some shit's likely to jump off.
    As far as where to install the switch, cutting the ground wire or cutting the voltage, both do the exact same thing in the circuit. BUT- If there's a fault somewhere and you cut the earth/ground and the power to the switch or component is still there- AND say the switch melts or is cheap ebay junk and grounds itself internally, it's about to jump off or (melt/catch fire) regardless of what you did with the ground portion of the circuit.

    That's the only reason I switch the power side. My main power feed to everything and I mean everything has a fuse, then a single switch. On the power leg.

  3. #43
    The Automatic Transmission thread shall resume regularly scheduled broadcasting.

    Goldy's VSS device has arrived! Thank you sir, I cannot wait to try it out. I had a 12 hour day at work and it's 9:30 PM so no car work tonight. I will see if I can sneak out early tomorrow to get it hooked up.

    Pretty exciting to think that it might come out of safe mode and rip the shit out of the back tires.

  4. #44
    Just to be clear the grey wires connect between the gearbox speed wire and ecu, the grey with black sleeve goes to ecu SPD pin. Skype me if you need anything...

  5. #45

  6. #46
    Quote Originally Posted by cdwood2010 View Post
    Edge of my goddamn seat.

    :)
    You and me both! I have been thinking I might not have designed the right circuit for the job. I suspect it will clear the fault code but the shift points will be borked!

    Please put me out of my misery!

  7. #47
    This is what I'll do:
    Green/yellow - Gnd 0v
    PURPLE- +12V
    GREY - VSS signal from gearbox
    GREY WITH Black heatshrink - SPD to ecu

    If I can get out of going in today I'll do it in about an hour. If I have to go hold these guys' hands and show them what to do, it'll be much later.

  8. #48
    Quote Originally Posted by cdwood2010 View Post
    Edge of my goddamn seat.

    :)
    On the other wiring note, the Russian's post made no sense really and I needed to move the car out yesterday- I just twisted together wire #1 and wire #7 from my hand drawn diagram and it starts. I did nothing with STA or NSW. If you touch those 2 wires and hit the start button (which provides 12V to the starter solenoid) it starts. Doesn't matter what gear and there's no relay in the circuit at all. It's all just laying in a giant spaghetti mess on the floor.

  9. #49
    I'm sure myself and Chris are available at very reasonable rates to come and fly to the USA and sort it out....

  10. #50
    Quote Originally Posted by Goldy View Post
    I'm sure myself and Chris are available at very reasonable rates to come and fly to the USA and sort it out....
    I'll carry the cases

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