Swapping a 2zz-Ge into a Mk3

[Jiff Lemon]

Please note this thread has been locked so I can try and keep all the info together. There's a separate discussion thread here:

High level swap overview: Its goes a little something like this:

Drop the engine from the two. Swap the wiring loom over. Add in the Lift sensor wiring. Add a bridge mount. Bung some additional water ways. Add the dipstick, idler pulley and fuel rail from the 1zz, mate up to a modified gearbox, lift back into car and re-pin the ecu.

Simple eh?

The shopping list:

1 2zzge engine
1 ECU and Key (with immobiliser chip)
1 matching 6 speed gearbox
1 Clutch
1 water pump - Get it for an Elise powered 2zz, not a corolla/celica powered 2zz
1 Swap exhaust manifold
1 Maf adaptor
1 Bridge mount
1 Cat exhaust mounting kit
1 service kit (oil, oil filter, spark plugs, coolant)
1 O2 mounting flange

Optional:
1 Fidanza flywheel
1 timing chain kit
1 Complete gasket set
1 big ass radiator
1 6 Speed plastic Shifter cage

So, onto the controversial items:
#1 - The water pump. My thinking here is simple. The 2zz in the corolla/celica is FWD. They have much less water to shift about. In an elise, the layout is much similar to a 2, and lo and behold, it uses a different pump.

#2 - The radiator. Again, the standard radiator may cope. Some people have said that a brand new OEM radiator is holding up. However, mine was looking crusty, so going belts and braces with a big rad seemed like the right choice.

#3 - the gearbox. Gearboxes scare even seasoned DIY mechanics, and rightly so. So the thought of having to build a hybrid box (2zz gears 1-5, Mr2 6th and LSD, into a MR2 case) has some people contemplating using their existing box. And you can.... However, the ratios are totally wrong. See, when Lift kicks in and the engine goes mental, you'll change gear and fall out of lift. With the hybrid box, you remain in lift all the way until 6th, which is just that bit longer for a bit of relaxed motorway work. If you want to see what's involved, Mr Woods built mine and the thread is here

#4 - the shifter. As I was changing from 5 to 6 speed, the plastic shift mechanism in the car is slightly different. Again, people have said it can be modified to get acceptable results but I'm happy to spend the couple of quid on ebay to get the proper thing.

One piece of advice that I can't emphasise enough: KNOW your engine. If you haven't heard it running,drove the donor and then removed it yourself, you should treat it as scrap that wants rebuilding. It sounds harsh, but the world we live in these days is out for a quick buck. 2zz engines are no different from any other engine - well maintained they'll last forever. Abused, they can shatter oil pumps, ruin their cranks and snap their lift bolts. People will then happily sell you their scrap for top dollar and tell you how it ran like a dream before they took it out of the car, they just didn't have the time to complete the swap....

Be careful out there peeps!

So on-wards on upwards, there's a couple of things you can do to the engine long before swapping it in. These should be considered the absolute minimum things you should be doing!

[Jiff Lemon]

The Oil Control Valves filters:

The 2zz has two oil control valves; One for the VVT-I "variable valve timing - Intelligent" (I shit ye not!) and the second for the all magical Lift - thats the L part of the name.

Essentially, they're electronic solonoids that divert oil. They also have tiny inline filters to try and stop the oil ways getting jammed full of crap. These filters are just about serviceable in car, so consider it an essential to do whilst the engine is out and accessible.

If you do need to order new filters, the part numbers are:
15678-21010
15678-46010

The vvti solonoid is on the timing chain end of the engine, on the right hand side as you look at the cover. The filter is underneath the bolt that is below it. You can see the vvti solonoid here, with the filter bolt already removed:



Peer inside and you'll see the filter.



Pull it out with a pair of long nosed pliers and then clean thoroughly with Degreaser and contact cleaner, and if in doubt, replace it.



To reassemble, you drop the filter into the bolt and screw back in- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO PUT THE FILTER IN THE BLOCK FIRST



You can also consider removing the vvti solonoid and giving it a clean, it's only held in with a single 10mm Bolt.

The lift solonoid is on the opposite end of the block



Remove the bolts and cover, and there's the filter looking right at you



Same procedure - Remove, degrease and clean, if doubt replace. Notice that this one is made of aluminium, whereas the VVT one is plastic - Useful if you're doing them both and get confused which is which.



Again, consider giving the housing and solonoid a good clean, then clean the mating face, insert filter and bolt back together.



Filters Done!

[Jiff Lemon]

Lift bolts:

We won't go into detail about what these two little bolts do; just Know that for the couple of quid they cost from the main dealer, you WILL change them.

These two little bolts live here:


here's a comparison of old vs new


And here's the part number.

[Jiff Lemon]

Rocker cover

As we've already learnt, the 2zz likes to rev! To try and ensure oil lubrication of the cams, the rocker cover is fitted with an Oil spray bar. Whip the cover off and turn it over:



See that round tube that runs around the spark plugs and finishes off in the bottom right corner? That's the spray bar. Look a little closer....



And you'll see the spray holes. Gives these a good soaking with something and ensure they're not blocked - A good blast of compressed air through pipe doesn't go amiss.

[Jiff Lemon]

Throttle body / idle valve

Whilst it's nice and accessible, give the throttle body a damn good cleaning. Pay particular attention to the idle circuit, as its a pig to get to once installed. If possible remove the idle valve and clean thoroughly (just be aware it's held in by those wonderful soft headed bolts that just love to self destruct).

Get bucket loads of degreaser/cleaner through the square chamber here


and it'll exit the Idle bypass chamber on the right of this pic


If you're brave enough to take on the soft headed bolts, you'll be able to give a thorough cleaning:



You should also check it rotates freely - they're prone to seize with non-use. So You need to undo these two bolts (Actually used a 1zz one for this pic as the bolts were in better condition!)



You'll notice they're a pentalobe screw - which gives you three options:
1) Go screwdriver shopping in advance
2) Get the mole grips on it
3) Put a slot in them and use a normal screwdriver

I did 2 and 3 quite sucessfully. Once undone and removed, you'll have this:



You should be able to spin that shaft very freely and easily. If you can't, its break out the carb cleaner/degreaser until you can! Because having to do this After the engine is in place is bloody awful!

[Jiff Lemon]

The Swap manifold bracket:

Aftermarket manifolds on the Mk3 are prone to snapping if they don't have the support bracket holding the flange to the block. There's an aftermarket 2zz > 1zz cat manifold available. However, the brackets from the 1zz won't swap over onto the 2zz engine, so it's time to make a mount

Mine started as two bits of steel plate, that got cut and bent...




and some triangulation / strengtheners added




Will it work long term? Who knows! We'll find out. However, the manifold is literally being used as a "get it up and running", then I'll look at potential improvements later.

[Jiff Lemon]

O2 sensor relocation:

The Mk3 has 3 lambda sensors; 2 in the pre-cats, and one after the main cat. A 2zz only has 2; one pre-cat, one post cat.

Sadly, the swap manifold isn't drilled for a lambda sensor, so we have to add one. I've added mine pre-cat in the downpipe to cat section (as it's mild steel and much easier to weld.

As simple as drill a hole, clamp on o2 boss



and weld...



However, what you'll really want, is it welding on the other side.... Doh! Hindsight is wonderful thing!

[Jiff Lemon]

The water pump

You can see the difference between the old and new quite clearly:



I believe that later 2zz's may have started to use the 9 vane pump, the elise's definitely did.

Want to know the really odd bit? I found cheaper to buy a water pump for a 2zz elise than it is for a 2zz celica!

[Jiff Lemon]

Sumo thoughts on sumps:
Comparison shot: 2zz top, 1zz bottom


2zz on its own:


1zz on its own:

[Jiff Lemon]

Radiator comparisons: