If that's 100 amps then it'll be fine for what you need. It may just want a refresh maybe a new roller for the wire feed and a torch liner.
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/mig.htm
That lots a worthwhile read
If that's 100 amps then it'll be fine for what you need. It may just want a refresh maybe a new roller for the wire feed and a torch liner.
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/mig.htm
That lots a worthwhile read
That's a damn good link.
:)
Originally Posted by thomp1983
Oh yeah, if you are a first time welder and you can't get it right after reading that, you should take up lawn maintenance.
I found this to be a very good site as a guide for welding of all types:
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/
Cheers folks.
hi folks, thought i would chip in here there are a great deal of advantages with a gasless welder or FCAW (flux cored arc welder) they are much better for outdoor use as the shroud gas you would normally use for welding mild steel (CO2, or argon CO2 mix) will just blow away in the wind, personally i prefer gas as it is cleaner (95% argon 5% CO2) for gas welding you would normally be set up DCEP this is where the electrode (or torch in this case) is positive and the earth is negative this means in this configuration the heat is split 2/3 on the positive and 1/3 on the negative (this is true of all welding processes) so most of the heat goes into the wire, I believe that when running flux cored wire that the polarities are reversed, when using tig, the electrode (the tungsten) is DCEN and 2/3 of the heat goes into the work piece (otherwise the tungsten would melt) when welding aluminium with tig you would use ac, the reason being that with dcen you cannot melt the oxide layer but by adding a dcep cycle the oxide layer is pulled away allowing the aluminium underneath to melt, also pure argon is used for tig (or argon helium mix or argon hydrogen mix for clean stainless welds) a good rule of thumb for welding is 40amp per mm, so if your welding 2mm, set your welder to 80 amps (this is for tig) obviously there are some other variables to watch out for, something to remember on your 100 amp welder is that every welder has a duty cycle dependant on amperage used so if you are running at 100 amps you will be lucky to get 15% duty cycle (usually worked over a ten minute period) so for every ten minutes you will get 1.5mins at that current, 100% duty will probably only be achieved at around 20amps and drop off there after (have a look at the blurb) on the machine it will let you know, once the duty cycle has been exceeded the thermal cut out will kick in and the machine will die till it cools down, im a huge fan of tig but it certainly is not the most practical tool for cars, learning how to weld in all positions with a mig is far more usefull than being able to lay a nice bead in the 1g position on a bench!
Last edited by inglismark; 19-01-2015 at 21:27.
Nice tips inglismark, thanks. I'm in the process of welding the roll cage in the Maserati Spazerati thing, and I have a tubing notcher out and a pipe master guide.
I'll post pics when I get a bit further along. But this comes in real handy:
That's just cheating.
:)
Special thanks to the Members of the Michigan Motorsports Hall of Fame Mace Thomas, the guy that taught me how to build a short track race car, along with his right hand man, Mark Adams. Mace's wife has passed but Mace is still around at 91 years old and when he starts talking about cars, he sounds like a teenager.
They taught me so much. Amazing people.
http://www.mmshof.org/inductees/mace-thomas/
Here's a few things that came from them:
Since this is a welding thread, these are more like fabrication pics, but in order to weld, you need to fabricate things too.
But let's not forget the great forum TwoBrutal. I've taken as much from here and all of you guys, as I learned from the Michigan race folks if not more.
TB 2015 hooray!
Last edited by Grenade; 20-01-2015 at 02:41.
I started gasless and had no real complaints about that method other than cleaning up the mess afterwards. It does have the few advantages as others have said about working in windy/open environments. I've also learned that it burns hotter due to the flux, and so can be better to ensure penetration (especially beginners). That being said, after switching to gas I won't switch back, it's just so much smoother, and doing sheet metal work on cars, you don't need all that heat (or a 0.35 wire which I believe is smallest for flux core?)
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