1MZ-FE vvti ECU – Diagnostic (and/or Flashing) Software Suggestions

[D2W]

Hi All

Last spring, Paul Woods very kindly fitted my Toyota Harrier 1MZ-FE vvti engine into my little Silver Mk1b. It is fantastic and I cannot recommend Woodsport highly enough. I wish I could drive the car more.

Recently, I’ve noticed that the inside of the exhaust is quite black and sooty. When I was a boy and played with Spitfires, I think this indicated a rich mixture.

Now I’m a novice when it comes to ‘modern’ (1987!) cars, but I get the general idea. The ECU measures various things and adjusts the fuel/air mixture to keep it close to stoichiometric. I imagine this remains subject to a bit of variation depending upon other conditions; say if I stamp hard on the gas the ECU might change the mixture to deliver more power. (Is this close?)

This got me thinking about plugging in my laptop to the OBD2 cable in my boot and checking the AFR. I’ve done something similar using VCDS (Paul’s infamous ‘robomuff’) on our Audis at home. And that got me thinking about my Harrier ECU. It may still think it’s in a 2-ton-truck. And that thought has me thinking about flashing the ECU...

So, questions to the forum:

- Does anyone know of some decent diagnostic software a novice can use to check out my Toyota Harrier 1MZ-FE vvti ECU. (?Might VCDS work? – I’ve noticed a ‘generic’ mode.)
- Similarly, can anyone suggest some software I might use to update the ECU?
- And, what should I be reading before I break something vital?


As ever, any and all suggestions, help, knowledge and ideas very welcome indeed.


Kind regards to all
David

[gavsdavs]

I think the default ECU is read-only, you can't change it, but you are on the right lines with OBD2 - was a connector fitted in the transplant ?
- There is the 'bluetooth dongle' approach, where you can get data from the ECU on your mobile (See the Torque app)
- there is the 'dedicated device' approach, which mechanics tend to have - cabled device - same connector on the end - shows you the same sort of data.

[Grenade]

The ECU thinks it's whatever it came out of. It doesn't care what it's in now, but that shouldn't matter. It runs based off of temperatures and air flow and I know they "learn" to set themselves as optimal running condition after a few hundred miles, so it should have sorted itself. If your check engine circuit is working and the light isn't on- I wouldn't worry too much about the soot at the exhaust. Take it on the highway and pound on it for a half dozen miles. You can have a look at the data I'm sure but doing anything about it, other than finding a faulty part is next to impossible. You can switch over to a standalone ECU but that's a whole ball of wax I've not delved into.

We've tried to crack into Toyota's ECU's and reset some of the parameters and let's just say a group of men in black showed up and told us to stop trying to gain access to those ECU's. Now the 1MZ program stuff might be out there already, but as far as I know- as gavsdavs says, it's read only. There was a guy that reprogrammed a part of the 3VZ boards somewhat or so I thought, don't know about the 1MZ. I know the 2GR was too much trouble, so we gave up on it. Maybe someone has in fact cracked into those and successfully reprogrammed them. It's been a year since I last looked into it.

Good Luck with your tune either way! Let us know how you get on.

[cdwood2010]

Paul should have fitted an OBD2 DLC socket to.your engine loom, it's probably in the boot.

Buy a bluetooth dongle off of the eBay, then download Scannator for Android.

It will scan and report any error codes. some you just live with, the engine thinks the drive / abs / traction has been stolen!

It might be.the case that you have a faulty O2 / lambda sensor, or a dirty MAF.

But to be honest, I think Grenade is right. Just take it for a good spanking, it's just a bit bored. If you disconnect the battery and reconnect before, it will force the ecu to relearn your new hooning style.

:)

[D2W]

Good Morning Gents

Many thanks for your replies.

Reassuring to learn that the sooty exhausts isn't something to worry too much about.

Yes; Paul fitted an OBD2 cable in the boot. So, I will start with a bluetooth adapter and Scannator and see where that leads me.

Then disconnect the battery before spanking it up and down the M1.

Hmmm... Better find myself an Android device too then.

Many many thanks again.
D2W

[cdwood2010]

I've got both here if you need, plus Doombar.

And The M1 is a 50mph zone at the mo. Get it on the bypass to Wellingborough or the A43 to the M40 and back. After hours it's pretty clear.

:)

[Little Deuce Coupe]

I've got both here if you need, plus Doombar.

And The M1 is a 50mph zone at the mo. Get it on the bypass to Wellingborough or the A43 to the M40 and back. After hours it's pretty clear.

:)

A43 is a good choice, some nice roundabouts to 'experiment' with - just watch out for the 3 speed cams !