I did have a similar problem a few years ago before my swap
Got so had that one night coming home in the pissing rain the 2 tried to kill me by throwing me sideways and nearly ended up in centre of freeway verge
Turned out my ball joint bolts had worked loose on 1 side, after torquing up problem went away
Maybe I just got crap ball joints from sbits but they only lasted a couple if years before both rears where found to be completely shot when I did my swap
Like I keep saying, your suspension arms are all over the place on Ferrari reps, look at your rear tie rods, I bet they too are pointing upwards, very bad for handling! Your rear hubs are towing out every bump you hit, now look at the front steering rack arms, they pointing up too? They are making the front hubs toe inboard over bumps.
In short this is why its crap, the rca spacers fix the track control arms but you have to sort the tie rods too.
[QUOTE=
In short this is why its crap, the rca spacers fix the track control arms but you have to sort the tie rods too.[/QUOTE]
OK, thats my next mission., BUT is was ok for the last year, and only started playing up after fitting new rear tyres for my MOT in April just gone, probably a co-incidence (as good as gold when I went to the Alps, coilovers on the low setting). I'll keep replacing everything (not much left now). Doesnt help with the number of pot holes on the back roads around here taking their toll
What has me confused is why it was ok on old tyres....
We have a Mk2 360 rep at Woodsport right now suffering the same handling issues you have, he has fitted RCAs which have helped, but the tie rods are pointing to the sky, and because the rear ones sit behind the hubs and the front ones sit in front of the hubs your front and rear wheels are doing exactly opposite things over bumps, the rear hubs are being pulled toe out, the front are being pulled toe in.
I may be wrong (it has been known!) but i think getting the suspension arm geometry right is essential.
I suspect the new tyre co-incidence is a red-herring (the directional arrows are pointing correctly on the sidewalls) and think my problem has been compounded by:
1/ Something worn (a bush and bearing, however slight it might be, because of the extra leverage created by 8cm hub extensions at the rear and lowering)
2/ Coilover springs at their lowest setting, they are stretched and more springy than they should be with say a mid setting
3/ Coilover dampers not capable of adjustment, the setting should be much stiffer, and even stiffer springs if possible, as the wheels are far more outboard than stock, again more leverage
If you Paul or anyone else knows where I might be able to acquire adjustment blocks or spacers for the tie bars, that would be great.
Sean Hurley of Hurley Race Engineering produces some items for this very cause.
Sean is a great bloke and has a good grasp of the problems encountered when modifying the stock suspension for race prep.
He hasn't been on here for a while but he's in the affiliates section.
Do give him my regards if you speak to him Bri!
C.
Good call Chris, thanks for this!
Originally Posted by cdwood2010
Try this place Bri https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/s...sters-sw20-mr2
“Where I'm going is not nearly as important as what I'm driving to get there.” ― Jay Leno
Very nice Chris, even if it is slightly over-engineered (prefer that than the other way), thinking my RCA's might not be large enough by the look of the Hurley ones. Torero, I got my RCA's from TechnoToyTuning, great service and nice product.
have emailed Sean at Hurley race Engineering
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