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Thread: swapping Mk2 Rev 1 for Rev 3 rear suspension?

  1. #11
    Bought the RCA kit for front and rear and it has indeed made a difference, wheel alignment is about 95% correct (need to take it back after some more camber work) , I bought these from Techno Toy Tuning in the US, a bit cheaper than those ebay ones and the quality is fabulous https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/s...sters-sw20-mr2

  2. #12
    Woodsport Paul Woods's Avatar
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    Good stuff, you would have been chasing that handling issue forever.

    TB Quote of the month:"I split my ear open whilst masturbating" - Jasper Full story Here

  3. #13
    Wheels laser aligned, all appeared to be good. Had a long run in the car last Sunday, not a good experience at 75mph+, scary when changing lanes on the motorway, the back end sway is awful and has not gone away. Got home and checked the torque settings at the rear and front, plus steering rack bolts, I'm really foxed now, this is getting expensive. Have done about 5,000 miles on the Urethane bushes since they were new. I've googled this problem and seen quite a few cars with it (incl Tesla), but none seem to have posted what fixed it. Hmm, could do with an expert to check the car (the MOT people didn't pick it up with their heaps of equipment at the testing station).

  4. #14
    Have you checked your tires and air pressure ?
    There is a stage further than laser alignment plus you could corner weight the suspension if you go to a suspension specialist.

    Now shoot me if I'm wrong but I've heard bent bottom A frames can seriously affect handling setup.

  5. #15
    how much lowered is the car? at 70mph, you'll have a good bit of downforce compressing the car. Static alignment is one thing, whats happening to the alignment during compression is what you need to know.
    I hate all southerners. As a point of reference, I'm stood at the north pole.

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Jiff Lemon View Post
    how much lowered is the car? at 70mph, you'll have a good bit of downforce compressing the car. Static alignment is one thing, whats happening to the alignment during compression is what you need to know.
    Good question Jiffy, its lowered by almost 7cm total, with my kit, the nose is lower than stock, I was thinking of adding more downforce in future with a vented bonnet (directing air upwards from the rear of the rad, rather than downwards). I guess the thing to do would be to twiddle the coilovers up by 3cm and then try again at high speed. Then I can cross off the possibility its that. Its a long expensive process of elimination, I guess I'm looking for someone to say, "that happened to me, I fixed x and completely solved the issue".
    When I got the car, I discovered it had cut down springs (40cm) with adjustable dampers (not coilovers), it actually drove really well. Due to MOT failure (rear shock imbalance and they didn't like the cut down springs [no helper springs to keep in place when jacked up], which at the time was news to me) I replaced the lot with stiffer 4cm lower springs and brand new OEM struts. Drove ok, but not low enough IMHO. I plumped for coilovers then, and went for FK height adjustable but no damper adjust (£450). Its been costly in total so far:

    Superfex Polyurethane bushes
    Uprated adjustable rear AR Bar- Whiteline
    Whiteline lateral locks
    Whiteline adjustable rear drop links
    FK Coilovers- height adjustable, but not damping rate adjustable
    TRD rear topmounts, pillowball adjustable front topmounts
    TechToy tuning Roll centre adjusters all round
    Brand new ball joints front and rear
    Brand new front track rod ends
    Camber adjuster bolts 2 per coilover bottom mount, all setup correctly and with hi torque

    I read about setting up corner weightings, that's something worth doing with top end coilovers (I might acquire a set from BC racing). all well and good having adjustable suspension, however if you don't have access to a setup facility, can be more trouble than its worth. Need to bear in mind I'm running 8cm hub extensions on the rear, 2cm on front and 17" diameter wheels on each corner, creates more leverage on the springs. I'd swear the instability is getting worse, which IMHO would point to worn bushes, although they appear good

  7. #17
    Ah ha I see said the blind man, you've got no damper control, buy some bc height and damper adjustable coilovers also look at spring rates once done get the suspension properly 4 wheel aligned http://www.powerstation.org.uk/alignment.asp these guys seem pretty good.
    The old rule of thumb is if you fecked around with some thing and it was ok before what have you (fixed) that made it worse there's probably your culprit.

  8. #18
    Hmm, well it was ok when I drove to the Alps last year, all I've done is fit new rear tyres and bolted on the roll centre adjusting blocks since then.. the plot thickens

  9. #19
    You still got the old struts? I reckon you've got bugger all travel going on, so your bottoming out at speed. Can you either put the old shocks back on or wind a bit of height in?
    I hate all southerners. As a point of reference, I'm stood at the north pole.

  10. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Jiff Lemon View Post
    You still got the old struts? I reckon you've got bugger all travel going on, so your bottoming out at speed. Can you either put the old shocks back on or wind a bit of height in?
    checked all the bolts again this eve, all appear good, I have the smallest bit of wheel bearing play on OSR, sufficient to pass the MOT/roadworthiness test. Have ordered a new bearing, but doubt its that. yes, think I'll wind the height up 1cm all round.

    Funny how its so sensitive to stuff even the testers with all their equipment can't pick up, here's a similar thread on the MR2OC
    http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=159048

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