swapping Mk2 Rev 1 for Rev 3 rear suspension?

[briweekes]

Has anyone done this?

Need to check out the viability, I've had rear suspension off a few times and spent quite a bit (Whitelines bits a pieces, urethane, coilover etc), but its still not 100% for straight line stability. I really want the benefits of a later model on my Rev 1.

My idea is to take a complete rev 3 crossmember and rear suspension and transplant on to my Rev1.

Appreciate any advice

Thanks

B

[Les85]

As far as I'm aware the only difference is the lower arms and antiroll bar, the struts are the same.

[briweekes]

Hmm, thanks , wonder if the crossmember bolts are in the same place as a Rev 1, those 4 very long bolts

[Chris69]

I doubt anyone ever bothered because Rev 3 suspension is a downgrade not an upgrade. It was only changed to make it more forgiving at the limit for "Average Joe."

[briweekes]

I don't think an above average Joe would be able to handle the snap oversteer on my rev 1, apparantly "revision 2 and subsequent releases featured key alterations to the suspension geometry setup with longer rear toe links to combat snap oversteer". Right now, I need to pull every trick in the book to get mine on track. I'm wondering if the extra weight of the 3VZ-FE makes it worse ( I guess I should have purchased top of the range coilovers rather than just height adjustable ones, but that cant be the prob) .
If anyone has the perfect rear toe, in degrees for a Rev 1, I would like to know.

,,,also if anyone has fitted the better rev2 + rear suspension bits

[AlunJ]

If anyone has the perfect rear toe, in degrees for a Rev 1, I would like to know.

That depends heavily on whether you're aiming for straight line stability (as per your first post) or to improve grip / cornering (as per your second). By and large the two configs are incompatible.

Wonder how well the old TRD setup settings for the mk1 would work on the mk2? They'd need some tweaking but maybe a semi-decent starting point? I remember being astonished at how the mk1 handled with the phase 2 settings. Had to fight to keep it in a straight line but the cornering & braking was bloody fantastic.

Did you have the alignment reset after changing the struts and so forth?

[snowtigger]

the 2gr handles better with softer suspension don't wind the springs up to change the body height I found it makes the car very twitchy the more I loaded the suspension, im going to go for the coilovers that you screw the whole body to get the correct ride height rather than the cheaper adjust the springs ones.

also I found after swopping the suspension over on the mk1 paul recommended a full laser alignment, and I was glad I did get it aligned as only one wheel was | straight the others were \ so on the front I had | \ and on the rear \ \ great going left not so good in a straight line or going right.

I would fit all the rev 3 bits change the suspension to a better setup and get it all laser aligned that way you know its going straight level and can take it from there.

[ya_crow]

I found quite a few recommendations for this

http://www.mr2.me.uk/Mk2/Mk2_Alignment.html

[Paul Woods]

If this is the 355 rep on coilovers then it is not the V6s fault it handles badly, nor is it the rear subframe, changing that will make zero difference.

I know exactly what is causing your handling problem without even seeing the car.

Take a look under the rear of the car from behind, look at your lower control arms the ones with the balljoints on them. I bet the arms are rising upwards towards the hub, ie they are not below the centreline of the inner bolting point.

I see this on EVERY Ferrari replica, they are all over lowered and it causes the car to suffer really bad handling issues, every bump you hit is actually steering your wheels.

Fit an RCA kit and it will be back to normal, this will lower your bottom arms to get the geometry back to stock or close.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MR2-Mk2-Tu...item1e8ae341ac

[briweekes]

You're bang on there Paul, thanks for the top tip. I'll aim to do exactly that