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Thread: MK1 V6 Conversion - Project Mini-Me

  1. #21
    Well, slight change of plan, having to use this engine in another car, so will have to build another engine for the Mk1, will be with the same tweaks as this though and will just clone it... Still hoping to get it to Japfest as a V6 though fingers crossed.

    A couple of quick pics to show the state of the engine at the moment even though its going in another car as its replacement will be cloned.

    Wiring loom isn't finished yet, but looks worse than it actually is.






    Last edited by wood_patrick; 29-04-2015 at 23:18.

  2. #22
    Why not use the dead 1mz for it? it's gotta be rebuilt sure, but it may as well live in the mk1?
    I hate all southerners. As a point of reference, I'm stood at the north pole.

  3. #23
    Well I did think about it tbh, but the mk1 has been sat around for over a year already and I really want it done for Japfest. If I strip the 1mz then I would want to play it safe and get the block & heads checked/decked/planed/skimmed for good measure as Im used to the 3vz cast iron block rather than 1mz alu, and at that point may as well look at changing bearings, rings, water pump, etc, etc which will drag it out and turn it into a major exercise. So, not sure what to do with it at the moment. May shelve it till winter or may just sell on a pallet as would suit someone with time wanting to do a rebuild anyway. Tbph, would really like to spend the summer driving one round as last year between 4 x mr2's and two daily drivers I seemed to spend most of my time under rather than actually in anything. Wanna have some fun winding people up in the mk1. Lol.

  4. #24
    Personally id find a couple of hours to pull the sump aand inspect the oil pickup and bearing shells, it doesn't take long and decide from there.

    Being an all alloy engine i wouldn't expect the block to need more than a light clean then just get the heads checked for flatness and blow all the passageways through and look the cams over for wear

  5. #25
    To be honest, I'm pretty confident everything is in good condition in the 1MZ simply by the way it was running and that as soon as the light came on I pulled over and got recovered. If I hadn't removed the cam covers, and disturbed it, I think it would have gone on for years. But, seeing how bad the build up is (And I mean bad) it really does need a serious clean and I just don't want to risk any issues with it. A blocked oil gallery could render what is currently a mechanically good engine, into a lump of scrap. I know I might be being a bit paranoid, but we will likely sell both the V6's, Mk1 & Mk2, before the end of the year and I wouldn't be happy selling any car unless I was confident in it, plus I want to spend as little time as possible under any vehicles this summer. Lol.

    With the 1MZ alloy block, I just assumed it was best to get it checked while off but will judge when/if I split the heads. :) Heads I would get checked/planed just for good measure though.

  6. #26

    Icon6

    Well, bit of a delay updating this, but better late than never.

    So, the originally planned 3VZ for the Mk1 ended up in a Mk2 and looked and went great.








    That left the Mk1 and a spare 1MZ that was a bit coked up inside from its previous life in a Camry. After having a better look at the engine once I had it up on the bench, I decided to strip, clean and rebuild for good measure. The engine had a full teardown, a lot of cleaning and then rebuilt back up with anything outside service limits replaced. All bearings were mint, piston rings were within limits but only just so were replaced, some shims were out and needed adjusting, valves were cleaned and ground back in, cam & crank sensors were brittle so replaced, new gaskets throughout, new rear main oil seal (Gearbox end) as did have a very minor leak, full new head set, new platinum plugs, new leads, 1 coil replaced as outside specs, new timing belt and two new 8mm hex bolts for the plenum as for some reason I managed to hide them in the daily beater glovebox and forgot all about them. Lol.

    Anyway, all that done, and a bit of paint and ready to roll, just needed to get it into the car now. (As you can tell, I seem to have a thing at the moment for satin black engine bays with alu and red paint....)











    So, next job was in with the mounts. As I wasn't confident in my welding, I had someone else do the welding I just prepped the surfaces and trimmed the mount plates (Many thanks to inglismark for sorting the actual plates out for me!)









    Next, engine bay cleaned and sanded down then resprayed with satin black and rough test fit for the engine carried out to work out where I was putting things










    Trimmed the rear firewall around the engine, allowing enough room for engine movement, all welded back up and TigerSeal used to seal everywhere. Rather than disturbing the fuel tank seals, pipes and connectors I decided to add a surge tank with a second fuel pump, and also added a new battery tray at the same time. The one thing I was adamant of from the start, was that I didn't want to lose any room in the boot so managed to squeeze one in on top of the nearside engine mount.














    Next built up new front a rear torque mounts (Can't find pic of rear one...) basically by recycling some Mk1 & Mk2 spare bits and modifying accordingly











    Then slowly rebuilt everything back into the bay and piped up everything. I salvaged some temp sensors from the 4A-GE and installed them on some unused ports on the 1MZ which allowed me to retain the original engine bay fan relay ecu which works like a treat. It does come on after you have been stood idling for a literally a couple of seconds, but once you start moving it goes off. As an added measure, I also tapped into the main front fan relay so I have an over-ride switch for the front fans. Rather than being on an on/off switch it means the switch gives two settings being either auto or on (Manual over-ride) which although I haven't needed to use yet, is there just in case. I also managed to get rid of CEL and when up to temp it is idling at ~700rpm and sounds beautifully smooth and quiet. Fuel pumps are also wired to prime for 5secs when ignition is turned on using a timer relay and additional circuit so it starts on the button. Have also fitted a new air filter, some boots for the battery terminals and a few other little finishes but overall this is pretty much how it came together















    Next thing was MOT, so off I went to the MOT station for 8am booking, and an hour later I was on my way home with 3 jobs; a split pin for a ball joint, a number plate light and a small patch of welding on the pillar between the drivers door and the wing. So back home, splitpin done, number plate light sone, wing and door off, rust cut out and cleaned up and welded up and coated with underseal and re-assembled. Couple of hours later and car was then MOT'd. Yay!!!





    And I have to say it goes like a dream. It wasn't until after MOT we had chance to give it a normal drive but the 1MZ in a mk1 is completely different to a 1MZ in a mk2, it is just effortless to drive. The difference in weight is really really noticeable and combined with the rebuild means that it just goes. No drama, no redline needed, just torque and away you go.

    I haven't changed the standard brakes or suspension as in my opinion for day-to-day general use they seem ok, but if I was going to track it or race it or drive it hard then I would likely look at upgrading them.



    All in all a very good result and I am well pleased with it and we are gonna be sorry to see it go. Car will be up at JAE on the stand and will be going up for sale and available from the end of the day on Saturday at JAE. Still got a few little cosmetic jobs to do and some 17" rims to fit back on (Pic below of test fit), but will get some decent pics and listed up here by next weekend if anyone interested. :thumbsup:



  7. #27
    Awesome project update, you don't fancy keeping this one then?

  8. #28
    Thanks. :-) Would like to keep all the toys, but decided to have a full clear our and start again. Fancy something with a V8 and with more than 2 seats next I think, but I reserve the right to change my mind. Lol. Will be advertising this properly tomorrow hopefully with some decent pics.

  9. #29
    Slice it thin and get it across in three or four envelopes, I'd love to have that car. Looks like a cool build and I bet it's a blast to drive.

  10. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by Grenade View Post
    Slice it thin and get it across in three or four envelopes, I'd love to have that car. Looks like a cool build and I bet it's a blast to drive.
    :icon_lol::icon_lol::icon_lol:

    “Where I'm going is not nearly as important as what I'm driving to get there.”
    ― Jay Leno

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