FD's build thread: '92T into a '86N/A.

[Fuzzydunlop]

Hello all!

Long time lurker first time poster.

I am from Canada and have been mesmerized by the knowledge I have found on this board. Last year I bought my first MR2 ('85 n/a) as my first 'project' car and I did EVERYTHING from refinishing the interior, to rebuilding the engine, to repainting the car, to welding in new floor pans, to redoing the whole brake and suspension. In the process I have learned a lot and studied a lot, and feel confident in my abilities. The only issue being... once completed the N/A engine left much to be desired.

Therefore the other week I 'pulled the trigger' and started buying the parts needed to do an MK1.5 swap. So far I have had incredible luck with vehicle purchases and feel confident that this will be go easily BUT I may need a little help over the next few months.

I need to buy a more structurally solid MK1 since my current '85 had too much rust in load bearing areas. I am worried that the car would just fall apart with more than twice the engine power being thrown into it.
I am not looking for a 'pretty' ride. I am aiming more for function. The car will be a 'sleeper' for the most part. :thumbsup:

What I have so far...

This beauty is a 1986 N/A that needs some love. She's been used and abused and has some issues with baggage left over from the damn previous owner. The N/A engine has a bad bearing and will throw a rod soon - but I am not worried about that, as this engine will be dropped. :blabla:



Structurally it is the best car I could find under $2000. It has some surface rust in areas but the unibody and load bearing points are all solid. Purchase Price (after some haggling) $600 with the rims. For that price the rust is forgivable.


Next up a real quean. A 1992 GT-S JDM-3SGTE. Once the pride and joy of a young, bold and brave street racer – now the shame of his father. At the right angle she still looks pretty good.


not

Apparently the other drive ran a green light…


Anyways, the rear end is nearly untouched and the engine bay is completely untouched. There is only 100,000km on the dial and the seller told me that the clutch was just recently replaced. The seller was the previous owners father, and the father was so angry that his son totalled the car that he sold the car for a measly $250.
LOL, I can sell the rear window for $250

My plans for now are just to get the engine in the car and running. Then I will drop it out and possibly rebuild, upgrade, etc.

Also I will be moving to a larger, heated garage in the near future (hopefully) which will allow me to do more work over the winter (its -10* to -30* Celsius for 4 months straight). At the moment they are parked about a 30 miles away at my fathers house.

My immediate needs Parts List

Engine Mounts from speed-source.net $500
-5SFE Alternator Bracket : PURCHASED $25 – I will use the N/A alternator if the amperage will suffice.
-87-91 Camry V6 outer CV joints attached to the Turbo axles: $50 each rockauto.com
-MK2 intercooler (for now – I’ll drive around without an engine bay lid until I go A2W)
-Walbro 255LPH fuel pump
-MK1 oil pressure sensor
-MK2 shifter cables - shortened and welded
-MK1 throttle cable – adjust bracket and length (need to study up on this part)
-Boost gauge and vacuum lines
-Manual Boost Controller
-Exhaust
-Battery relocation stuff
-???


‘Down the Road’ Parts list

-Brakes: Front ST185 calipers, Rear MK2T calipers
-A2W IC with Ford Cobra HE with Shurflo Aqua Tiger Pump and ¾” copper water lines
-Faster spooling Turbo??
-3” down pipe and exhaust – Berk Technology
-Water injection
-???

What am I forgetting?
Any help is appreciated and my apologies for piss poor cellphone camera photos.

[Fuzzydunlop]

My project has began. I moved to a new home with a much larger, heated work space. This will allow me to do some work over the winter. Right now all I have is the MK1 that I am prepping. I wont be able to move the MK2 to my place till the weather starts to become more agreeable.


As I started to tear down the MK1 I found more and more problem areas. One being rusty floorboards which need to be repaired. Not a problem, I have had experience doing this in a previous build and still have lots of sheet metal lying around. Here is some progress photos

^^drivers side rust removed


^^metal sheets to be welded in


Plates welded in and rust coated. Last night I placed the seam sealer on. I probably should have placed the seam sealer first, then the paint? I dunno, does it matter?


I also sanded and primered the front trunk as the paint was peeling badly from corrosion. The previous owner had spilt much brake fluid up there. I still need to build a battery hold for up there.

The 4AGE engine has also been dropped, mounts cut out, and fuel tank dropped


A large shipment of parts came in the mail the other day
- Balljoints all around
- Front Tie Rods and tie rod ends
- Rear Tie Rods and tie rod ends
- Prothane Urethane Bushings complete kit
- Sway bar end links front and rear
- Goodridge Stainless brake lines
- 255lph Fuel pump
- Manual Boost Controller and Boost Gauge
- 5SFE alternator bracket
- Engine Mounts from speed-source.net
- Poly Engine Mounts
- 2x CV half shaft assembly from ’88 Camry V6 [EDIT: WARNING THESE DID NOT WORK]
- MK1 oil pressure switch
- POR15 Rust protection paints.
Most of that was from David Hawkins at twosrus.com.

Over the next while Ill be working on freshening the suspension and brakes. I decided to stick with ‘87+ MK1 brakes for my build. I don’t do a lot of track racing so these should suffice. If in the future I decide that these are not enough then Ill upgrade them – no big deal.
Also Ill stick with the stock struts and springs for the time being, until I can decide which I want to use.

[Fuzzydunlop]

Slow progress. Having a few issues with brake fitment but I think I have it all figured out now. The MK1 is nearly ready for the 3S.
Photos say more than words so, for your viewing pleasure....

Suspension sanded down and painted with POR15.



Passenger side had rust issues so fixed it all. Welded in plates, seam sealed, POR15, Rubberized undercoating (used on inside as well). Doesnt look pretty but its solid, and should last.



Started stripping down the Organ Donor, and will be moving it to my house in a few days from now.


Battery relocated - jerry rigged bracket works decently. Carpet fits over it nicely.



Refreshed suspension is reinstalled, waiting on some Brake calliper brackets then install.


Also sent radiator in to a shop for a refresh. Was returned painted and all. Nice.

Now just need to move my car.

[Paul Woods]

That's coming along really well Fuzzy, i love builds like this :thumbsup:

[nik]

me too its how the club was born..you know this is now an old skool swap :p

[Adam W]

Good work so far! I'm sure you checked this, but brake fluid in the frunk usually is from leaky brake/clutch master cylinders. It would be a shame for you to repaint it and then have them leak again :)

[Fuzzydunlop]

oh, and if you were really observant in the above posts, you'll see that I had a VERY pleasant suprise when I dropped the engine form the Mk2.


Limmited Slip Differential FTMFW yeaaaaaa


any where i've read it says that 1993 was the first year these were available, which makes me assume that my car may have been mislabeled when it was shipped over from Japan or something, because it supposed to be a 1992 car. ??? yeaa, I danced a jig when I pulled the axels out and saw that bar starring back at me. happy times.

[Fuzzydunlop]

Thanks guys! Really appreciate the support! It wouldn’t be possible without you guys though, seriously.

Paul, your wiring guide, geeze, made it seem so easy. I feel infinitely smarter about how electronics work on the car just from following that guide (although there are some revisions that need to be made regarding the location of the G/W wire for Check Engine Light. Mine was located on the M1 plug, not the the N1. -easy enough to find the solution with a quick MR2OC forums search though.)

Nik, I am really honoured to have both Paul and Nik comment in my thread. wow. Don’t know how many posts I've read by you both. Also, I've been told numerous times that I'm an old skool kind of guy. Funny you say that. Still not sure if it’s a compliment or not, though. I have more friends double my age than my own age, which may have something to do with it, lol.

Adam: thanks for the heads up, Ill be sure to double check them.


>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I finally got the MK2 into my garage at my house.


I followed a guide to dropping the engine from turbomr2.com. Really good website BTW.
But I found it easier to lower the car down so that the engine rests on a dolly, then lift the car off of the engine, rather than lowering the engine out of the bay. Prevented having to balance the engine perfectly so that nothing swings around and gets broken, and was incredibly easy.



And there she be, sitting next to that ole tortured 4AGE


The left side axel nuts was a really bitch to get off though.


Now I have the 3SGTE in the bay of the MK1. I tack welded my mounts in place, and worked on wiring all day Saturday - got it done, thanks to Paul’s Guide. Working on plumbing. Once I’m satisfied, Ill drop the engine again and weld the mounts in permanent.

I’ve had a couple hiccups though,
1) I found out that the Alternator bracket from the 5SFE engine needs to be from a car WITHOUT POWER STEERING. If the 5SFE car has power steering then the bracket will be exactly the same as the 3SGTE.
Below, the bracket on the left is the one needed.


2) Also, I bought some 1988 Camry V6 axels to switch the outer CV’s off of. Problem is that the Camray axels I was sent were not the correct diameter. Crap. Oh well, I had a generous tax return from the Queen this year, so I used that cash towards purchasing a set of axels from Chico Race Works in California. $500 but lifetime guarantee on them : seems like a good deal IMO.
Camry axel on the left L wrong size ftl

And that’s where she sits today. Still lots to figure out, but Im slowly getting there bit by bit,



Again, thanks for the encouragement guys.

[Paul Woods]

Fuzzy are you not relocating your alternator to the Celica (alltrac) position? I don't think either of those brackets pictured above will work. I think you need the Celica Alt bracket.

Glad the wiring guide helped you out :thumbsup:

[cdwood2010]

Is that right? The n/a box I just fitted has a bar in the diff but I think Paul said that you need to take it apart to identify it 100%

If that is correct then Wey Hey matey !

C.