Got the TPS and it seems to run better but something still isn't right feels down on power. It has a intermittent CEL, a whistle noise on throttle tip in and a rattle/knocking noise, also the idle fluctuates a little some times. I'm hoping the knocking/rattle noise is a noisy alternator and not rod knock. See video below.
drop the belt off, that should eliminate the alternator. there's a definate hiss but engine noises are always had to capture on mobile devices. spray a bit of carb cleaner around - should help pick up leaks.
I hate all southerners. As a point of reference, I'm stood at the north pole.
No idea on the knock, try removing your belt and see if it's still there.
Sounds like you have an airleak somewhere too.
Removed the belt and the loud sound went away but there is still an odd sound. Also drove it down the street and still feels down on power and has no torque in the mid range. Checked for leaks and couldn't find anything. Starting to get discouraged don't know what else to try.
do the beams have a tvis equivalent? And are the basics like Timing set? No fault codes being thrown?
I hate all southerners. As a point of reference, I'm stood at the north pole.
Don't think the BEAMS has tvis doesnt look like the intake manifold has any room for that. Don't think you can adjust the timing think thats all done by the ecu. Nope only code is for AT speed sensor which is expected but shouldnt expect that to effect performance. Not sure what to do next going to check fuel pressure if I can find a way.
Did some investigation following the BGB procedure for the MK2. At idle it was running at 45psi, disconected the vac line to the regulator and it stayed at 45psi. Pinched the return line and it jumped one or 2psi but settled at 45psi. So my guess is that the regulator is bad, any idea on the Toyota part number so I can check if its shared with a USDM model? I am running a 6an inline fuel filter that is metal mesh is it possible that the lower resistance vs OEM style filter could cause a rise in pressure?
Well got the fuel pressure regulator out, had to remove the intake manifold to get to it. Surprisingly that wasn't to difficult just 6 nuts and it was of in 10mins. New one is on its way and hopefully that will fix the issue.
Replaced the FPR with another used one and still pegged at 45psi even at load while driving but it doesn't show any signs of rich. No black smoke and the plugs were clean with no fouling. Checked the compression and they were 196, 200, 200, 205 which from what I have found is really good. Next thing I thought it could be was the VVT but not sure how I would check that. Took out the solenoid and there wasn't anything that look wrong that looked jammed. Gonna try and clean the MAF tomorrow and see if that does anything. Any other ideas because I'm really grasping at straws here?
what fuel pump are you running?
I hate all southerners. As a point of reference, I'm stood at the north pole.
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