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Thread: 2grfe swap info and help request for my brackets

  1. #1

    2grfe swap info and help request for my brackets

    Hi. I am starting a group buy and would like to share information about the swap that I have noted and to centralize all the info into one spot. This would be great for those who needs help and I encourage everyone to ask for help here. Doesn't matter if you buy my brackets, post here if needed :)

    List of additional requirements in order to complete the swap and info that I tried to centralize for those who are interested.

    ***Innovation Passenger Mount required.

    ***If you didn’t get a Sienna engine or Highlander (need conformation) you would need to order p/n 12315-31091 to fit my passenger bracket.

    ***Serpentine belt - Goodyear Gatorback 406057 *note: None a/c only. Check summit racing for best price. With a/c belt needs to be 61.5”, check Goodyear home page, 6 rib for more selection.

    ***Axle – Use turbo axle with st185 or late 80’s to 1990 v6 camry outer cv joint along with spyder abs ring. *note: RockAuto part number for remanufacture - 665003 (66-5003) x 2 or check ebay for best price on just the outer cv joint ~$50 shipped for both.

    ***Axle Carrier – Will need to be modified. *note: Need machining or cut and weld. Cost depends.

    ***Gas pedal – I used a 2009 Corolla pedal. All wire plugs should be the same. *note: Check link on “Where to find the missing part for your 2gr-fe swap.” All of the pedal listed under here should fit my adapter.

    ***Crossmember – Will need to be cut and weld as needed. DO NOT cut the threaded mounting holes for the rear bracket!

    ***Headers – makes a set, equal length, proven to flow. Will need to access the firewall beam to fit. Stock headers, no modifications required.

    ***Aluminum intake pipe – K&N makes one for the Camry that fits in-between the battery but cost more than this

    ***Fuel – Upgrade pump. Run returnless if using stock ecm. One fuel line to route from tank to rail.

    ***Radiator – Stock radiator will work.

    ***Engine Coolant Hose – Creativity. Passenger hose use part number # Gates #21946 (1996 Saturn SC2 Lower Rad Hose). *note: If using aftermarket headers, you will need to reroute hardline to water pump.

    ***Heater hose – Simple reroute. 2gr has two heater hose, I opted to cap the bottom one and cut it further back to clear linkage bracket. Once the linkage is setup, whenever you drop the motor all you have to disconnect the cable by the motor (the one by the starter is not an issue) vs unbolting the linkage bracket to two or three pieces to unhook the cable off.

    ***Charcoal Canister and EVAP – If using 2gr ecm keep. If not only need brake booster hose. Cap all unused plug at the gas tank but leave one with a breather.

    ***ECT – Some folks use two, one for spyder ECM and another one for 2gr ECM.

    ***Coolant Reserve Tank – Use as normal and bleed as normal.

    ***Battery Bracket – There is only a minimum of two bolts holding the battery try. I get better measurements for another group buy since it’s not a big deal for those who what to relocate their battery.

    ***Slave Cylinder – Will need to grind off some material off the engine block. Spyder cylinder will work. E153 use a different version with added unnecessary attachment making it interfere with my engine bracket. Buy a 8” hardline from a local auto part store and bend it away from the header. Bleed as recommended.

    ***Clutch Hose and Hard Line – If using aftermarket headers, delete the attachment with hardline and part bolted to the firewall beam. Bend the hose from the beam to the driver side away from the header and attach the clutch hose to it (you need to cut here to clear the header flange). If not using stock header just delete it to attach clutch hose, no need to bend the line unless you want to get it further away from the heat. The cylinder will be located right above the engine bracket.

    ***Mid-pipe and Exhaust – Custom. Marc @ frankensteinmotorworks is in the process of making one.

    ***Alternator (4 plug only) – I use wires 2 & 4 only for IG & S. Combination meter is not working. Have not tired anything else to get the gauge working.

    ***Electrical, Dual ECM – Look at my build thread, Shara-Yakuza shared a wiring diagram. Not hard to copy or send it in for a custom harness @ Tweak’d Performance.

    ***Aftermarket EMS – Vipec V88 or others that will drive everything. Pros – Don’t have to worry about wrong ecu with engine immobilizer, no need to upgrader later (turbo, supercharged, itbs), bling factor, buy a wire harness for your next project to use the same ems (kill two bird with one stone). Cons – Cost more, needs to be tune, even though you kill two birds you can only drive one at a time. Will need a fpr and fuel return line added.

    ***Selector Shaft – Probably the most complicated of all. Need to convert to fwd. Source your own or buy from Toyota but you will need to get the selector shaft, new cover, gasket and rubber booth. You will need to use your locks, springs and cups off your original shaft and flipping these 180* by grinding down the opposite tooth that is missing off the shaft. I can weld it for free as long as you ship it my way once you converted it or if you ship me both the new and old, I will convert it for you for a fee. The attachment that needs to be welded on the selector shaft will be included with the shift linkage bracket.

    I apologized for these links in advance but the mk2 is probably the most well documented 2gr swap.

    Other good information from Gouky.

    Where to find the missing parts for your 2gr-fe swap

    2GR-FE 3.5L V6 Information

    Axle carrier help thread and ideas. (I choice this path)

    A/C - I'm not sure which compressor I got, I thought it was a Sienna compressor but it didn't fit my harness. The compressor use the same fitting as the spyder. The rubber hose will need to be cut or extended as/if needed using splicer. Wire for high side. I attached pictures for clarification. This information wasn't included on my build thread. Same connector as the tail light (check electrical manual for part number).

    Harness - If you have some damage plugs, some of the spyder plug will work. If it fits, wire it. Injectors, most 4 plug fits the alternator (2-3 from the spyder harness), ignition noise filter etc are all the same plugs.

    Wire diagram made by Shara-Yakuza (from SpyderChat)

    Here is one made by Simon in New Zealand for those running an EMS. Plug A is and the very top connector on the stock spyder ECM for those who are wondering. The rest of making your own harness is very simple. Works for any motor really.

    I have to say it has been a blast to drive! Compared to my mk2 turbo at 340whp I like the 2gr power a lot more. Coming from all three generations of the mr2 (85 4age, 88 4agze TED Component built motor with big cams, 91 n/a, 91 gen2 3sgte built motor gen3 electrical PFC and vipec v44) this by far the best combination!!! Love the torque! Picks up quickly and the urges to keep it going is very attempting. My rear end does sits lower and I am currently on Apexi coilovers. Haven't had issues with my car being low and I plan to drop it more!!! My next plan is to get it prep for track days. Good luck to everyone's journey in the quest for more power

    Link to my build thread which will answered most of your questions if any. Pretty well documented with pictures.

    Thanks to Marc, Paul Hibbs, Macro, Randy, Mike, Ralf, Paul Woods, Tom, MR2OC, SpyderChat, TwoBrutal plus other forums and folks I probably missed for contributing. Whatever it’s was, I took a little info no matter how big or small it was.

    Thanks again to TwoBrutal,
    Fue Xiong

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    I hate to say it but the mk3 mr2 rad has a hard enough chance at cooling a 3vz or 1mz on a 2gr I reckon it has no chance of cooling the v6.

    From what I've heard and read you need a toyo Motorsport twin or triple core radiator its about 3 times bigger than the stock mk3 rad which is way to thin.

  4. #4
    I upgraded no questions ask :) I would recommend upgrading.

    Quote Originally Posted by cyclehead View Post
    Mine is set up with 16" on the front and 17" 235 on the rear. I'm sure there's a little wheel spin in first and second gear but it's hard to detect with sticky tires. They don't squeal. Axles are 2003 Spyder and Matrix. The car is exactly 190 pounds heavier than stock - same as carrying a passenger. The Spyder brakes work perfectly for street driving. Besides, stock Spyders can out-brake any car on the road. You might have different experience if you race. You didn't ask, but the stock radiator handles the V6 perfectly. Even in South Georgia summertime. Again, you might have different experience if you race.

  5. #5
    I do agree. The stock spyder radiator is thin. I never noticed it until I took it off.

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    I think once you start exploring the amount of bhp and torque on a race track it will quickly show it self as being not up to the task, I've heard several guys have gone bigger rads on the turbo 1zz and 2zz swops and there only 250+bhp.

    The other thing you will need for circuit racing is a baffled sump or an inline accumulated oil container that at the first drop in pressure dumps about a litre of oil into the system.
    I have the towing package which has the 2gr oil cooler system which helps keep the oil sorted for my drag runs.

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    Has anyone succeeded in driving a 2gr with a 3rd party ECU ? Is it worth the expense? Any proved power increase?

  8. #8
    Filthy (I think that's his username on Imoc) runs a Link G4 Extreme on his Rally/racecar Mk2 and a few in the states using Viper I think.
    On a standard block gains are negligable from what I remember.

  9. #9
    I will be going greddy emanage piggy back then Solaris or what ever Ryan recommends the guys a leg end in ecu mapping circles .

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by gavsdavs View Post
    Has anyone succeeded in driving a 2gr with a 3rd party ECU ? Is it worth the expense? Any proved power increase?
    I'm running a Vipec and well worth it IMO. I've heard story of ebay and unhelpful toyota with the 2gr ECM plus it turning out to be an immobilizer unit :( Depending on where you are sourcing it and if you are doing the work yourself, prices I think are still going to be cheaper than an EMS (ebay $300 + est $500 for custom harness) unless you kept buying 2-3 unit from ebay etc. New I think are ~$900usd and this route could put you very close to an EMS. I'm sure most of us have to buy 02 sensor and such so a wideband isn't a breaking to make up one's mind. If you plan to stay stock, not worth it IMO. IF you are unsure and could afford it, than yes. Go stock ECM and sell it later wouldn't hurt either.

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