-
-
Now that sir, is a build thread!
:)
Loving it.
Looking forward to reading the next instalment when you've caught up on some sleep?
Chris.
-
Nice start..... Really looking forward to the next installment, it's a real cliffhanger!
Will he? Won't he?
-
I would be interested in how you got the six speed to work and if you have part numbers for the conversion parts or even know some one that could make them?
A few of us over here would be gagging for a six speed conversion.
-
-
E3
E3-1
E3-2
E3-3
E3-4 FROM FAN RELAY NO. 2
E3-5 TC D1-13 OBD2
E3-6 STP STOP LIGHT SW
E3-7
E3-8 F/PS S6-1 SHORT CONNECTOR (SRS NO.2)
E3-9
E3-10
E3-11 STA ST-2 ST 7.5A
E3-12
E3-13
E3-14
E3-15
E3-16 ABS A7-18 ABS ECU
E3-17
E3-18 PRE FROM A/C DUAL PRESSURE SWITCH
E3-19
E3-20
E3-21 MREL EFI-1 EFI RELAY
E3-22 SPD C10-5 COMBO METER
E3-23 TBP V4-1 VAPOR CANISTER (CLOSED VALVE)
E3-24
E3-25
E3-26
E3-27 TACH C12-6 COMBO METER
E3-28 LCKI FROM A/C MAGNETIC CLUTCH & LOCK SENSOR
E4
E4-1 EVG M1 MASS AIR FLOW METER (E2G)
E4-2 VC T1-1 V3-3 VCC VAPOR PRESSURE SENSOR
E4-3 HT1A H1-1 HEATED O2 BANK 1 SENSOR 1
E4-4 EVP1 V2-1 VSV (EVAP)
E4-5 HT2A H3-1 HEATED O2 BANK 2 SENOR 1
E4-6 E03 GROUNDED
E4-7
E4-8 HT1B H2-1 HEATED O2 BANK 1 SENSOR 2
E4-9 OX1B H2-3 HEATED O2 BANK 1 SENSOR 2
E4-10 RL G1-1 GENERATOR
E4-11 VG M1-3 V MASS AIR FLOW METER
E4-12 OX1A H1-3 HEATED O2 BANK 1 SENSOR 1
E4-13
E4-14 THW E1-2 ENGINE COOLANT SENSOR
E4-15 G2 C1-1 CAMSHAFT SENSOR
E4-16 NE+ C3-1 CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
E4-17 E1 GROUNDED
E4-18 E2 SPLICED
E4-19
E4-20
E4-21 OX2A H3-3 HEATED O2 SENSOR BANK 2 SENSOR 1
E4-22 THA M1-4 MASS AIR FLOW METER
E4-23 VTA T1-3 THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
E4-24 NE- C3-2 CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
E-5
E5-1 #10 I6-1 INJECTOR NUMBER 1
E5-2 #20 I7-1 INJECTOR NUMBER 2
E5-3 #30 I8-1 INJECTOR NUMBER 3
E5-4 #40 I9-1 INJECTOR NUMBER 4
E5-5
E5-6
E5-7
E5-8
E5-9
E5-10 IGT1 I2-3 IGNITION COIL AND IGNITER 1
E5-11 IGT2 I3-3 IGNITION COIL AND IGNITER 2
E5-12 IGT3 I4-3 IGNITION COIL AND IGNITER 3
E5-13 IGT4 I5-3 IGNITION COIL AND IGNITER 4
E5-14
E5-15
E5-16
E5-17 CCV V1-1 CANISTER CLOSED VALVE
E5-18 RSO L1-1 DUTY
E5-19
E5-20
E5-21 E01 GROUNDED
E5-22 MOPS O1-1 OIL PRESSURE SW
E5-23 OCV- C2-2 CAMSHAFT TIMING OIL CONTROL VALVE
E5-24 OCV+ C2-1 CAMSHAFT TIMING OIL CONTROL VALVE
E5-25 IGF I2,I3,I4,I5 PIN 2
E5-26
E5-27 KNK1 K1-1 KNOCK SENSOR
E5-28
E5-29
E5-30
E5-31 E02 GROUNDED
MR2 Roadster Signal Rav4 Signal
D1................................. E13
D1-1..............................E-13-1
D1-2..............................E-13-2
D1-3..............................E-13-3
D1-4.........CG.................E-13-4 ........CG
D1-5.........SG.................E-13-5 ........SG
D1-6 ........A/B................E-13-6.........CANH
D1-7.........SIL ................E-13-7.........SIL
D1-8..............................E-13-8
D1-9..............................E-13-9..........TAC
D1-10.............................E-13-10
D1-11.............................E-13-11
D1-12.............................E-13-12 .......TS
D1-13...........TC...............E-13-13........TC
D1-14...........TS...............E-13-14........CANL
D1-15..............................E-13-15
D1-16...........BATT............E-13-16........BATT
So the MR2 does not have CanH and CanL I have been talking with another forum member and through some discussions we believe it is just named differently.
TAC and TS also are not in the MR2 Spyder either so I am just going to add these pins.
The main reason I am discussing the wiring is I have convinced myself to try to make the car run with one ecu, making the dash and all the other equipment work just like it came from the factory. Utilizing just one OBD2 port. This is the reason why I am making such a detailed listing of the harness information.
I eventually want to make a list of which plug and pin needs to be spliced to the 2GR harness plug and pin to make everything copacetic.
Another forum member (from a different forum) I discovered something about the same time while on the phone. The MR2 C12-6 (Plug-Pin) is signal TACH. Which will need to be wired in a loop from C12-6 to E-13-9 to A9-15. (E-13 is part of the spyder harness maybe able to be completely removed)
We also identified C11-3 (MPX2) & C12-5 (MPX1) as CANH and CANL I will need to look into this further to find out which one is which.
The some trouble came up A9 style connect I had purchased for this swap came out of a 2010 Camry 2AR-fe. The connector is physically the same but the pin out is ONLY about 50% the same as the Rav 4 Harness. Almost one day was spent making a Tyco pin remover which needed to be made from a piece of steel that was 1mm wide by 10mm long by tall. The tip of the tool needed to be .2 mm so the last 3 mm had to ground down from 1mm to .2mm which is a slope of what 78 or something like that.
So I took apart the harness and they would not come out, Broke the tool and I was mad so I made another then I talking with someone the mention the little piece of plastic and said you know that a lock, and then I remembered reading about that but in a hurry I had forgotten about it. Spent the rest of the night moving some of the wires. The wires I did not need to more were the A4 (drive by wire), CanH, CanL, and the Battery wires, then there was an equal amount that I needed to have a pin that only had a rubber plug.
I metered the plug out to make sure all the wires have continuity and checking to make sure they are properly seated back into the plug.I ran the wires to the pedal and OBD2. I soldered the DBW wires from the ECU to the pedal. I routed the wires through the interior of the car in the center console area. I used adel clamps to hold the wires where I want.
I took apart the A9 connector, use a tool I made to remove the pins and relocate the pins to where I needed them. None of my wire colors match so I labeled each wire to which pin it went to and the signal it was.
I made my OBD2 in the MKIII configured to that of the Rav4, this required me to splice/solder some wires together as well as moving a pin.
Pin's 1-3,8,10-11, &15 are not used.
The following pins and signals are the same.
Pin 4 -=-=- CG
Pin 5 -=-=- SG
Pin 7 -=-=- SIL
Pin 13 -=-=- TC
Pin 16 -=-=- BATT
Pin 6 A/B I spliced in CANH from A9-10
Pin 9 I added TACH. To do this I harvested a pin and wire from a spare OBD connector.
Pin 12 I added a pin in the same method from the spare connector then spliced it into the TS signal. (green and red wire) I cut the wire and simply soldered on the new lead.
Pin 14 I spliced in CANL from A9-11
These wires were cut and soldered to a new wire I ran across the rear firewall. these wires shared signals and were almost the exact same circuit laid out. The letters in parenthesis are for the Mr2 harness. Which to my knowledge all years are the same, unlike the Rav4.
A9-1 -=-=-=-=-=-=- to E2-1 (B-Y) Batt
A9-2 & 3 -=-=-=-=- to BC2-5 ( +B(added +B2))
A9-28 -=-=-=-=-=- to E2-8 (B-R) IGSW
A9-34 -=-=-=-=-=- to E3-21 (GR) MREL
A9-52 -=-=-=-=-=- to E2-3 (G-R) FC
A9-24 -=-=-=-=-=- to E2-15 (YR) W (which converts on the Rav4 to EFI. The Rav4 ECU is not 100% happy so I borrowed a Camry ECU which was a little bit more happy but not as much as I would have liked.
About this time I got deathly ill with a case of viral meningitis. Spending almost 3 weeks out and lots of cash spent on hospital bills, we can talk about health care in a different thread. :)
I had the car for sale and many offers for the car with the hard top for much less than 3 thounsand USD. Which was a joke to me. So I bought a MKII NA auto that I was just going to swap the 2GR into MKII and call it done. However, after talking with a few people they motivated me to get back in the game with the Spyder. The EA60 with no starter mount and funky gear linkage is out. I will come back to this another day. I bought a 93+ E153 with LSD and will do the axles using MKII LSD Turbo inner stubs and 1990 v6 Camry Outter bits. The Flywheel / clutch from lotus is also gone. I bought a 9.5 Lbs flywheel and APR bolts from Forward Motion Performance.
My NEW flywheel
My New Pressure plate
The new double sprung clutch disc
The inner stubs I bought no outters as of yet
-
Wow. Outstanding work. I'm reading this on my iPhone but I'm going to read it again on my PC!
:)
Chris.
-
This is awesome. Lovely pieces of hardware :)
-
Lovely looking job subscribed for the next installments .
-
Were there enough pictures?
That was condensed down the next installments will not be anywhere as long.
Preview if next events
Tapping the block for the addition bolt
Fitting the flywheel,clutch and pressure plate
Mount the E153 gearbox to the 2GR