That's very odd, I just join CanL and CanH straight to the OBD2 socket , those wires are on the chassis plugs so no resistor at all, everything always works.... It must be down to my scanner
That's very odd, I just join CanL and CanH straight to the OBD2 socket , those wires are on the chassis plugs so no resistor at all, everything always works.... It must be down to my scanner
yeah, if there isn't any kind of junction in between, i'm puzzled. but hey, as long as the scanner works there's no other potential side effects.Originally Posted by Paul Woods
My car seems happy enough.
No junctions or anything, just 6" of wire coming from the chassis ECU plug.... i've always seen people do this resistor mod and think why are they doing that?
Sorry for the thread hijack, as you were
Done a litle testing today.
The sensor ground is OK, good continuity when ECU is connected, no continuity when the ECU is unplugged.
My scanner also works with no resistors wired inbetween CANH and CANL. It's a Tactrix OpenPort 2.0
I have disconnected the STA and NSW wires from the 2GR ECU, nothing changed, engine starts and runs, throttle still works 15% so they are really unneeded - thanks, Gouky!
I paid attention this time that the CAN lines between the ECU and TCM are different, and have their own pins on the ECU. CAN+ and CAN-.
Resistance between them is the same as between CANH and CANL - 120 ohm. But adding resistors to the CAN+ and CAN- pair does not change the resistance between the CANH and CANL.
I wonder if there is a way to trick the ECU into not detecting the U0101 with resistors between CAN+ and CAN-?
I know one way - to lower the voltage to 9V. But i cannot drive it that way...
I'll google it for starters...
Messing with the CAN bus and rsitors will not take me anywhere. Laws of physics are unbreakable.
Read up on the auto trans control system for the U660E that was installed in the camry that i have pulled the engine, ecu etc. out of.
Turns out that the ECM and TCM work together very tightly.
The throttle opening angle is controlled and limited at "acceleration from a stop" condition to limit wheelspin and increase drivability. So is the ignition timing of the engine.
So i need an ECU from a car that had an older model of auto transmission.
ECU came in this week, i went through the pin list and found that the exhaust VVT oil control valve wiring is different. Camry pins are 14,15,16,17 on the C55 connector and the RAV4 pins are 49,50,55,56 on the B30 connector.
I suppose that the pins 49,50,55,56 on my camry connector are unused, so i either have to move the contacts or crimp new ones and stick them in there.
Is it possible to get the contacts out of the connector and move to another pin?
This week i have finally moved the 4 mismatching contacts and connected the RAV4 ecu - BAAM!! Everything works!!
Throttle opens fully and i have a bunch of transmission codes. I have removed the immobilizer completely, engine starts and works better than ever, because of the full throttle response.
A little note to those planning this swap - get the 89661-042E90 ECU from the start, do not waste time and money on the Camry ECU with 6 spd auto and immobilizer stuff.
Will go to the dyno when the snow goes.
Case closed, i hope. Happy NEW YEAR to everybody!!
hny sir, well done.
......in the bluecorner , fighting out of japan....
Finally!
I have went and bought a 2.75 pipe with the brand Autobahn88 on it, and a couple of 2.75 --> 3.0 silicone reducers. Drilled a hole, glued the maf flange on it, put it together and look what i got:
100% load, same MAF reading as on the stock Highlander, 25 deg advance, 0,82 lambda, etc.
I can say that it is finally performing as it should, but i have yet to prove it on the dyno.
The pipe is 67mm I.D., 70mm O.D. I have made a flow straightener and located it right dowstream of the filter.
I think that it is fucking stupid not to have measured the stock pipe from the very beginning....
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