2GR MR-S in Moscow - Problems, please help!

[Shara_Yakuza]

honestly, nobody knows. you've got two ECUs on the same bus that are probably conflicting messages to eachother, you have both ECUs driving things like the main relay which i know won't produce optimal results. you have "start" stuff hooked up which nobody normaly has and it's hooked up to both ECUs.

and while your exhaust isn't restrictive, it also has no flex pipes in it and has evidence of carbon on the flanges which indicates leaking. normally not enough leaking to be a problem but you do have them placed right in front of the O2 sensors which probably gives an incorrect signal to the ECU.

we also don't know what you've done to the fuel setup. if you're using the stock MKIII setup you may simply be running out of fuel and the ECU is limiting power.

I have taken your suggestions seriously.

Now all the 1zz ecu has connected is +12, GND, immobilizer stuff, combination meter, water temp. thats it. No cross-connections between them.

The 2GR ecu has all those things from my list connected. I have checked if all the wires actually go where they should go and have voltages that they should have. There is still margin for an error, of course, but i want to know if i should replicate this scheme or maybe try another one, a "minimal required to run".

I changed the fuel pump for a 255lph unit. If it doesn't give enough flow, then the injectors would be maxing out? i guess i could see it in the scantool data?
What is the maximum injector pulse that you can see at WOT at the redline?

I have mentioned that i have moved the AFR sensors upstream of the v-bands exactly because of the leak.

[Gouky]

what's your fuel setup look like, internal or external regulator?

[Shara_Yakuza]

I only changed the pump, and the hose on the 2GR fuel feed so it would reach the metal fuel pipe at the firewall.

So the spyder regulator is in the tank.

[snowtigger]

The Mrs regulator if there is one ?won't flow enough I bet for the 2gr you need an aftermarket regulator Gouky can advise on which and were probably.

If you put it straight in then you could be over fuelling the system you need to regulate how much psi is going in and does the mrs have a fuel feed return line?

Me thinks you have a serious prob there.

[Gouky]

The Mrs regulator if there is one ?won't flow enough I bet for the 2gr you need an aftermarket regulator Gouky can advise on which and were probably.

If you put it straight in then you could be over fuelling the system you need to regulate how much psi is going in and does the mrs have a fuel feed return line?

Me thinks you have a serious prob there.

i don't actually know that. you'd have to ask someone that did a swap with an in tank regulator setup.

[Paul Woods]

I've built two 2gr roadsters, both on external regulators, using the EVAP line as a fuel return.

You need to "weld up" the stock FPR so it is dead and not allowing a fuel return, then open up the EVAP line by drilling out the tank housing to 6mm ID, or the line restriction will raise pressure artificially.

I suspect using the roadster FPR is an issue , you cannot dial in your required pressure.

I then make my own EVAP fitting on the overflow pipe.

Could be any number of things causing your issue

[Shara_Yakuza]

The first problem is that the throttle don't open fully when the engine is stopped or running.

The low power problem when the throttle works may be fuel-related, i will have to check the fuel pressure and injector duty. But only after the throttle problem is fixed because i will have to check it at WOT on the road or on the dyno, and there's no point in going there with 15% throttle.

Paul, what about the wiring scheme - is there anything wrong in this list:
Constant connections:
1. +12V constant to BATT and +BM
2. Ensure that all 7 grounds are good.

Switched connections:
1. +B, +B2 from EFI main relay
2. +12V for the MAF power from the EFI main relay
3. +12V to Injectors and coils from the IG2 relay
4. +12V to widebands heating from AC relay
5. IGSW from IG2 relay
6. MREL to EFI main relay
7. FC to Circuit opening relay to operate the fuel pump
8. STA to the starter relay so it knows it's cranking
9. NSW - how do you usually wire this? (i have it connected to the NSW wire at the 1zz ecu, which uses the switch at the spyder clutch pedal)
10. +12V to the "Drive" pin on the 2GR ecu from the IGSW wire.

DCL3 to check the codes:
1. Grounds
2. +12V constant
3. CANH and CANL with a 120ohm resistor in between them.

[Gouky]

what ECU are you using?

these aren't needed:
8. STA to the starter relay so it knows it's cranking
9. NSW - how do you usually wire this? (i have it connected to the NSW wire at the 1zz ecu, which uses the switch at the spyder clutch pedal)

if you disconnect the ECU, is there any continuity between pin2 on the MAF and the battery ground?

can you give a list of faults after driving the car for a few miles?

[Paul Woods]

What is this 120ohm resistor on the CAN lines for? I've never had to do that on any 2gr swap and i have full OBD2 diagnostics capability.

[Shara_Yakuza]

I am using the 2-plug ECU from a 2008 2gr-fe camry, which were built in Japan at that time.

I'll try and disconnect the NSW and STA wires from the 2gr ecu.

If i drive for a while with complete stops and engine starts, i get this list:
P0037 Oxygen sensor heater b1s2
P0057 Oxygen sensor heater b2s2
P0443 Evaporative emission control system purge control valve
P1660 Air bleed control circuit
U0101 Lost communication with TCM

Do you mean these pins on the MAF - the ground pin for IAT sensor?



I'll check that.

The manual says the resistance between CANL and CANH must be 54 to 69 Ohm. I had to lengthen the wires so they reach the cabin, and the resistance was 120 ohm. So a 120 ohm resistor brings it down to 60 ohm, and i have communication.