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Thread: 2GR MR-S in Moscow - Problems, please help!

  1. #1

    2GR MR-S in Moscow - Problems, please help!

    Hello everybody, i've been reading this forum for a while since i decided to build a 2GR MR-S.

    I have more or less described the build here on spyderchat starting from post #113:
    http://spyderchat.com/forums/showthr...ictures)/page6

    For now, the swap is done, i already have attended a couple of Time Attack events, but i have a major problem.

    I have asked about it here on mr2oc:
    http://mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=455509

    The problem is that the ECU doesn't want to go full blast.
    It opens the throttle only 15,6% when the pedal is fully pressed.
    The VVT-i doesn't work, i read zeroes in all "aim angle", change angle, etc fields.
    The ignition advance goes up to 30 maximum when revved to the limit on the road.

    I could manage to trick the ECU to open the throttle, but the VVT and other stuff didn't work anyway, and it dynoed low:
    Power in HP, torque in Nm.



    I have checked my wiring twice, found a couple of errors, everything works fine now, but the problem persists.

    I have noticed that when the ECU detects the U0101 DTC (Lost communication with TCM), the throttle works 15%.
    When the ECU does not detect the U0101 Dtc, the throttle works 65% (which is maximum per the manual, visually it opens 100%)

    Has anyone encountered this problem in their swaps, what have you done?
    Do you hook up the TCM to the harness?
    Do you have it running full blast with the U0101 present?

    Thanks for any help!

  2. #2
    Woodsport Paul Woods's Avatar
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    Sounds like you're in safe mode, either you haven't powered up the ECU properly or you have an ECU fault.

    TB Quote of the month:"I split my ear open whilst masturbating" - Jasper Full story Here

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Woods View Post
    Sounds like you're in safe mode, either you haven't powered up the ECU properly or you have an ECU fault.
    I have the following wires connected:
    For alternator: ALT-S and +12v constant leads
    For +B, IGN, Ground, TC, TACH, CANH, CANL for DLC3. It works fine.
    For +B, IGN, Ground, IMO, IMI, Unlock warning switch, door courtesy sw. for the immobilizer ecu.
    For BATT on 2gr ecu --> to BATT of 1zz ecu.
    For +BM on 2gr ECU --> to BATT of 1zz ecu.
    For IGSW on 2gr ecu --> to IGSW of 1zz ecu.
    For MREL on 2gr ecu --> to MREL of 1zz ecu.
    For STA on 2gr ecu --> to STA of 1zz ecu.
    For FC on 2gr ecu --> to FC of 1zz ecu.
    For NSW on 2gr ECU --> to STA lead in the spyder fuse box.
    For SPD on 2gr ECU --> to SPD on 1zz ecu.
    For OIL PR SW from the 2gr oil pr. switch --> to 1zz ecu.
    For W (check engine light) on 2gr ecu --> to W on 1zz ecu.

    Also, twisted wires for:
    2GR +B, +B2, AFM power--> to EFI relay
    2GR Injector power, Ignition power --> to IGN2 relay
    2GR AFR heater power --> to A/C relay, switched by a wire from the 2GR +B lead.

    The 1zz ecu is disconnected from MREL, FC, STA, W leads.

    The twisted wires are temporary, until i get the problem weeded out. I have really checked all those power wires with the multimeter, they have less then 1 ohm resistance.

    Have i missed something?

  4. #4
    I have tried another ECU yesterday, and another throttle body. Both behave absolutely the same.

    The ECU says "fail safe mode" is off:


  5. #5
    What if we start from the other side?

    What is absolutely necessary to start and run the 2GR in terms of wiring?
    (except the IMMO stuff)

    Constant connections:
    1. +12V constant to BATT and +BM
    2. Ensure that all 7 grounds are good.

    Switched connections:
    1. +B, +B2 from EFI main relay
    2. +12V for the MAF power from the EFI main relay
    3. +12V to Injectors and coils from the IG2 relay
    4. +12V to widebands heating from AC relay
    5. IGSW from IG2 relay
    6. MREL to EFI main relay
    7. FC to Circuit opening relay to operate the fuel pump
    8. STA to the starter relay so it knows it's cranking
    9. NSW - how do you usually wire this? (i have it connected to the NSW wire at the 1zz ecu, which uses the switch at the spyder clutch pedal)
    10. +12V to the "Drive" pin on the 2GR ecu from the IGSW wire.

    DCL3 to check the codes:
    1. Grounds
    2. +12V constant
    3. CANH and CANL with a 120ohm resistor in between them.

    Is this correct?

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shara_Yakuza View Post
    The VVT-i doesn't work, i read zeroes in all "aim angle", change angle, etc fields.
    if you read the fine print, you'll notice that the toyota tool does not display cam angles above about 800RPM to prevent the data from getting out easily.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Gouky View Post
    if you read the fine print, you'll notice that the toyota tool does not display cam angles above about 800RPM to prevent the data from getting out easily.
    Ok, what about ignition timing advance?
    If you can hook up your scantool, what are the values?

    I have about 43 deg on cruise with minimal throttle, and about 29 deg at WOT before rpm limit. (when i got the throttle working)

    I understand you have probably never wired a spyder with 2GR, but can you confirm the wiring "scheme" in my previous post?

    Also, i don't think the exhaust we made is THAT restrictive:





    i have changed the AFR sensors mounting to upstream of the v-bands shortly after because of small leaks confusing the sensors.

  8. #8

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    i still think your problem is very likely an intermittent connection from your temporary wiring.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Gouky View Post
    i still think your problem is very likely an intermittent connection from your temporary wiring.
    I understand, i will remove it completely and connect again. I want to know if i need to change anything in the scheme?

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shara_Yakuza View Post
    I understand, i will remove it completely and connect again. I want to know if i need to change anything in the scheme?
    honestly, nobody knows. you've got two ECUs on the same bus that are probably conflicting messages to eachother, you have both ECUs driving things like the main relay which i know won't produce optimal results. you have "start" stuff hooked up which nobody normaly has and it's hooked up to both ECUs.

    and while your exhaust isn't restrictive, it also has no flex pipes in it and has evidence of carbon on the flanges which indicates leaking. normally not enough leaking to be a problem but you do have them placed right in front of the O2 sensors which probably gives an incorrect signal to the ECU.

    we also don't know what you've done to the fuel setup. if you're using the stock MKIII setup you may simply be running out of fuel and the ECU is limiting power.

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