Not wanting to put the boot in but even if waterless coolant pressurises the system less your just masking the issue, if it works. If normal water/antifreeze mix is boiling up something is wrong in the system
Not wanting to put the boot in but even if waterless coolant pressurises the system less your just masking the issue, if it works. If normal water/antifreeze mix is boiling up something is wrong in the system
Massively struggling to be honest. Changed just about everything on cooling system and still got same symptoms. The car is in great condition and had lots of money spent on it. I'm just struggling to find this last fault.
Have to agree with this. As per my previous post, I would keep looking for a leak you haven't spotted yet. I can only think of three possibilities really:Originally Posted by thomp1983
1) Heater matrix (you don't say if this has been ruled out/replaced)
2) Leak in an obscure pipe. If coolant only comes out when hot it will evaporate away and you won't see any dribbles on your drive. My garage either put some sort of fluorescing dye in the water or did some sniffer test (can't remember which) and pressurised the system to find the leak. If you've had it pressure tested already then this leads me to suspect the last and worst...
3) Cracked block. Happened on my old Rev3 turbo and was very hard to spot, my car (although no longer owned by me by that time) had the head swapped out etc...turned out to be the block many £££s later.
Anyone else got any better ideas?
Just to clarify is it fine for a while once bled or does it boil as soon as you do some motorway even if it's just been bled?
It is fine for a while. It's normally the cooling phase then switching it back on that makes the airlock at the front of the car. Then you lose water at the expansion tank or sometimes it bubbles like a kettle from the expansion tank.
How much do you get for breaking a 1.5?? Everything else is immaculate in the conversion.
Once my cooling system blocked up entirely (it was well below freezing), not least because of the amount of rust that was circulating in it. Needed a proper drain and the rust crud draining, then back to normal.
Breaking seems extreme, it's probably worth limping it upto peter gidden at sbits he's only in barnsley so not too far
It is with great regret, this car is now going to be sold as a donor car or project car. This car is too good to break, but I haven't the time it needs to properly diagnose the problem. If anyone's interested, PM me.
Trailer it to me, i'll fix it for free or at least diagnose it fully instead of seeing that happen to it.
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