Nick's 2GR-FE Trackday Weapon Swap!

[gavsdavs]

Mine idles at 650 and is into closed loop very quickly after starting. I'm not sure what to suggest I'm afraid.

Are you getting AFR or Lambda readings ?

[Paul Woods]

Yep as suspected you have more wiring to do.

Sometimes the PRNDL switch wiring needs taking care of, which is a simple 12v ignition feed to D (refer to your diagrams under automatic transmission control to locate the D wire), also your transmission oil temp sensor signal wire needs grounding to earth via a 10k resistor. Not all ECUs seem to require these, i obviously check each conversion is operating as it should be during testing and wire them accordingly.

There is nothing else on your fault code list that would stop it going into closed loop, also bear in mind closed loop is at idle on a warm engine only, as soon as it is revved it will go into OL or OL-DRIVE, just in case you are confusing them.

[Monkeyra]

Thanks for that nugget Paul, I'd have never thought they would have possibly been the culprit! Gives me something to look at over the next few weeks, so will get them resolved out and report back. I've never seen closed loop at idle yet (when warm) so hopefully that'll cure it.

[Paul Woods]

No problem, like i said it's not always a requirement and i cannot rule out something else is not quite right, but do those and see what happens.

[cdwood2010]

Out of curiosity, did some digging.

http://www.innova.com/en-US/Dtc/Definition

P0037 - Heated Oxygen Sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 2) Heater Circuit Low Input
P0453 - Evaporative Emission System Pressure Sensor/Switch High Input
P0986 - Shift Solenoid E Control Circuit High
P2716 - Pressure Control Solenoid "D" Electrical
P0057 - HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 2, Sensor 2)
P0630 - VIN Not Programmed or Mismatch - ECM/PCM
P0705 - Transmission Range Sensor Circuit (PRNDL Input)
P0630 - Repeated
P0705 - Repeated
P0713 - Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor A Circuit High Input
P0748 - Pressure Control Solenoid A Electrical
P0778 - Pressure Control Solenoid B Electrical

I will pull a list from mine, pretty sure i have a lot of these. Found a sneaky fix for a couple. :)

c.

[Monkeyra]

I've taken a look in my manual, and I *think* I've pinpointed the PRNDL section?

I'm looking in the "Electronic Controlled Transmission and A/T Indicator" section, and have found some references on the Engine Control Module that have P, R, N and D each going to a pin, see screenshot on the link:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0...W9wMVRZX0NuT3M

Is this the "D" I need to run a 12v feed to?




As an aside, I was hoping to drive the MR2 for the first time to work this week, circa 35 mile each way. Am I likely to cause any harm if I don't get this open loop error fixed if I decide to drive?

[Monkeyra]

Well, assuming that I've identified the correct wire (I'm assuming it's the "D" as shown on the link in my post above), I ran a 12v feed to this wire. This then caused a relay to open, I think it was the starter motor relay (or the COR one?) which is in the boot on the firewall. Started the car up and it misfired a lot, so shut it down.

So, either I've got the wrong end of the stick and the "D" wire isn't the one I want, or I've got another cock-up in my wiring somewhere?

[cdwood2010]

Interesting. The starter relay is the green one in the boot, the COR is the black on in the engine bay fuse box. I'm not sure why either of those would be triggered if that was the right wire. Can you confirm (fer sure) which relay is being triggered?

c.

[Monkeyra]

I'll wire it back up once the kids have gone to bed and confirm which is clicking. I'm 99% certain it's the starter relay (or a black one I've installed next to it, can't remember what thats for now!)

[Monkeyra]

The green starter relay was the clicking culprit. Confused, yes I am.

If there is no ill effect of using the car without it ever going into a closed loop then I won't lose much sleep over it, if I need to get it sorted though then I will. Do I need to sort it?