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Thread: What mods would you do whilst my 3vz is out?

  1. #21
    I've already dropped G'Box Oil! But just trying to make things a bit easier and do as little work(and or damage!)...But if I dont take them out it makes dropping the box oil pointless!

    Is it just a matter of prying them out the box with a big flathead/crowbar/bar of some sort? They are NA driveshafts btw and p/s was off with Paul about 5k miles/1.5 yrs ago and the o/s was off a month ago by a garage!

  2. #22
    Yeah, either pop them out with a crow bar, quick nudge, or give the hub a quick pull and they will pop out. It's just a spring clip holding them
    In.

    C.

  3. #23
    awesome dude :D will blast it tomorrow and report back. Love how helpful this forum is

  4. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by vish View Post
    awesome dude :D will blast it tomorrow and report back. Love how helpful this forum is
    Yup, never would have got the first swap done without this forum, smashing bunch of people! It just keeps getting better!

    Chris.

  5. #25


    Its Out! However unfortunately the damage to the box is worse that I first thought. The top engine bracket hole has sheared too:



    Going to take it into a gearbox casing specialist to have them hopefully repair it. Any thoughts on whether it could be done?

  6. #26
    DC tig weld the damage / build it up. redrill / using the bracketry as jigs. helicoil all 4 holes after , loctite (638/648) the bolts, use book torque value.
    ......in the bluecorner , fighting out of japan....

  7. #27
    I would definitely clean your enginebay while its out and replace the fuel line assembly behind the heat shield. Might aswell upgrade your fuelpump and drain/ clean your fueltank.


    Thats a S54/NA box right? I would suggest a 5th gear replacement and a LSD.
    Don't shoot the messenger!

  8. #28
    one more thing get the front mount filled with urethane or get the bushes that fit into it, while out.
    ......in the bluecorner , fighting out of japan....

  9. #29
    Hey Adam! Cheers so not thinking its unsaveable? Got it going into an Engineering place who'll get all the welding done...shall relay all of your advice.

    Defo getting the solid poly mounts early next week when the paycheck comes in.

    MMAddict it has already had a nice wee Cusco 1.5way LSD installed after the conversion at a fair price! Also kinda like the shorter 5th Gear because I don't really drive motorways. But defo agree on the engine bay its getting a good clean up and may have a look into the fuel lines/tank too.

    The main thing I'm still in two minds about is Headwork. I don't want to do it if theres a risk I'll cock it up - is removal of the heads straightforward? (although I've bought the Camry Haynes which arrived today so will be tomorrows reading in work). Also would like a little more info on the what I'll need so I can assess costs - do I just need two main head gaskets - one for each bank or are there other gaskets involved? Would love the extra power but without extra expense and risk!!!

  10. #30
    defiantely repairable mate, i could almost be tempted to countersink the top engine mount hole from inside the box, using a beefy countersink like an m12-m14 so the head has enough land to spread the load over a wider area, and use a wide washer and a regular nut over the mount bracket to clamp the bastid. trouble is you would have no way to stop it turning when you wanted to remove the mount bracket, so.. just remove the box with bracket still attatched, its easy enough to remove that mount from the chasis. something preventing that may be the mount wont fit in the bracket with big nuts poking about (couldnt say unless i saw!) .

    or.. you could have a nice countersunk threaded insert from steel made .. countersink the inner box to flush it and insert (should be a very light push fit), drill a small pin into it from the side of the box to stop it turning.

    i guess lots of people would call it a day, but i would fix it stronger than it were before . as chris says.. where theres a will. you may also have a budget to work against, so as much as its good to repair, any s54 going for £80-100?

    other method of course is to fill / drill / coil the 2 bad uns and just coil the others, if they do get em to use metric coarse, take mount bracket / slave cylinder. if that dont work i throw in the hat
    ......in the bluecorner , fighting out of japan....

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